[rbeach84]

To assemble, I used this general procedure: The skins have a line running down the centerline while the formers have an "up" arrow marking. I apply glue to the top half of the former, then lay the skin to the former, aligning the centerline mark with the arrow. I then align the former with the edge of the skin part while holding it in contact with the glued portion, keeping things 'tight' and aligned for about 10-15 seconds or so. Once I'm sure it will stay, I then repeat for the other end of the 'tube'. Then I apply glue to the lower half of *both*formers and the bottom seam as well and complete the remainder of the joints. Obviously, the bottom half is a bit trickier and needs to be done without delay. Plus, the amount and consistency of the glue (Elmer’s white glue) plays a part because of the (as I call it) "soaking factor". The more 'wet' the paper is the more it can distort under pressure, so I try and minimize the amount of glue so the card retains it's strength.

Back to part #1 - I added the glue tab before attaching the formers, then as I 'rolled' the lower half around for a test fit, but after I'd glued the top to the formers I found the skin was too long to meet at a butt joint by about 1.8mm - a significant overlap. So, I carefully removed the overlap in situ and finished gluing the joint. I have the excess strip on top of the assembly to illustrate.

I then completed part #2 and it's formers using essentially the same method. I took the mating former for section 2 and carefully sanded it to match the corresponding former in section 1 to maximize the surface alignment. (This is something I got better at as I went along .) However, as section 2 is a tapering cylinder, I cut out the formers with an appropriate edge angle so the skin and 'bulkhead' met along the same plane. I also attempted to introduce a bit of 'compound curvature' by embossing the interior of the skin after rolling. I'll speak more to this later.

By this point, the wisdom of the center holes was apparent as I could reach the interior of the seams and 'press' them from inside, applying more even pressure to *both* sides, keeping from distorting the seam while sealing it.

The second image shows the top centerline mark that is the primary alignment aid Nobi has incorporated in his design. Notice how the 'arrow' on the former points to it. The sections are not glued together at this point.
(To be con't)