[mbauer]

Ok, first, these models were designed to be lightweight to fly! Best to use Cardstock in the following weights:
-Index 90# or 100#
-Cover 65# works also.

Everything else is not important. No detail parts unless they add strength! This holds very true for anything at the rear of the model (i.e., No exhaust cone). Every extra gram means it needs counter-balanced to fly!

I don't usually edge color because these things climb to 50-100 feet in about 1 second and if a hard landing happens, edge coloring is last thing I'm thinking about...Besides only the guys who do 1/200 builds would be able to see the edge coloring at that distance...

1st photo shows Ziploc bag holding small parts & how I wrap tubes with a cut rubber band to pre-shape the tube parts.


2nd Photo shows small alignment tick marks for joining tubes/cones to each other.


3rd Photo shows the use of an embosser to score fold lines, $1.95 at local art supply store.


4th Photo shows using a plastic quilting ruler to brace roll cutter for straight lines. If you use one of these rotary cutters, the blade moves back and forth, support is a must!


5th Photo shows using some scissors to cut Arc and circles. Notice I'm cutting the Black outline off-will mention/talk about this in a minute-stay tuned.


6th Photo shows me being lazy! Notice I'm only doing a single cut on the glue-tabs for the Nosecone Collar-this also works for the Fuselage Front. This works, but you can do the double cut (follow the lines) if you want...I'm going to try and build several of these models and not much time to do them in!


7th Photo shows me trimming the edges after gluing the tailfeathers. This gets rid of some weight and makes the model look nicer, if you do it too, don't trim to much, just the overlap...


Next post will have photos showing start of build.

BTW-The heavier the models are, the less distance & height they attain However; they make up for it by suffering more damage on vertical landings!