Since there are no instructions or a specific way to build this model I decided to finally take some risks.
First, I cut the model into several smaller parts. This way I will handle it better.
Then, I cut the yellow, black and purple tabs but not in exactly the same way they are drawn. In the model they are triangular. I cut them as long tabs.
I have no particular reason to choose that, and I don’t really know beforehand if it is a good choice. But again, since nothing is written on stone, possibilities can be explored. If they prove useful they will be kept. If not, they will be discarded and another option tested. Basic scientific method applied to paper modeling
Purple and yellow tabs are not folded. But black tabs are folded backwards. This to make it look more like what the cross-section suggests.
As for the ridges that present a side movement relative to each other, I thought that a special joint should be used to allow for a small movement. Straight small tabs like the ones I first used in the Pacific do not work, because they fix two adjacent parts. So a small hinge is needed.
I came with this simple design that, if made at the proper size (small) and with the proper paper (75 gsm copy paper) should work as a kind of hinge, where the two ridges are supported by the rectangular areas, while the triangular supports that meet in the bottom serve as pivots. The small section where the two triangles meet must be small enough as to allow some flexibility, but not as small as to be easily tore by continuous use.
I think 4mm long by 4 mm tall with a 1.5 or 2mm hinge (where the triangles meet) should work.
This is purely experimental. I have never tried anything like this before in any paper model. It works in my head, but I have not tested it yet in real life. I will have some of this “side hinges” printed this afternoon at different sizes to see what their limits are. If copy paper is too thin probably light cardstock will do the trick.
Interesting challenge indeed
