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Old 04-19-2014, 01:12 PM
Tex Tex is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Siekierki Wielkie
Posts: 260
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Howdy, y'all!
Living in the "Old World", I tend to use plain office / copy paper (80 grams / sq. mtr.) for tiny parts, and (more often) 160 grams / sq. mtr. (twice the thickness of plain office / copy paper) for most purposes; most of my models are H0-scale (1/87), and they include vehicles, buildings and some airplanes. If and when I need sturdier parts (e.g. formers), I laminate them to whatever I can find (for free), like any kind of cardboard packing material, and if and when I need something REAL thin, like airplane markings to be used on a surface that's been covered with aluminum foil, I stick some cigarette paper to given, pre-defined fields on a piece of copy paper and then print whatever it may be.
If and when I need clear material for windows, I use whatever I can get; for H0-scale vehicles, I often use the clear wrapping of cigarette boxes (disclaimer for reasons of political correctness: SMOKING IS BAD FOR YOUR HEALTH AND THE HEALTH FOR THOSE AROUND YOU! SMOKING CAUSES SEVERE LUNG AND HEART DISEASES! SMOKING CAUSES CANCER! etc.) or overhead foil if it needs to be on the rigid side; a few square inches go a long way at that scale!
If and when I need something stiff, yet flexible, that conducts electricity, as for illuminating something using LEDs, I sometimes use cut-up beer cans (politically incorrect, but I don't like all 'em cokes ...); over here, some are still made from steel rather than aluminum, and those I can easily solder - couldn't get much better, really!
Hmmm ... all that ain't paper, though ...
Apart from that, I agree with airdave ... "best paper is anything that is not plastic" ... ;-)
Just my two cents ...
-Tex
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