I use 65# cardstock for almost everything. 110# is good if you are building something with large flat surfaces, like an architectural model (building) with walls that might get floppy in 65# card.
For cutting, you need LOTS of #11 hobby knife blades and a handle. A small scissors is nice for separating sections from the page, but not essential. You need a self-healing cutting mat and a good metal straightedge, preferably with a non-slip back.
You will need a scoring tool of some sort, with a tip not as sharp as a knife blade. My favorite is a very large, kinda-blunt sewing needle, a Dritz Yarn Darner (metal). People use all kinds of tools for this - dry ball point pens, a sewing seam ripper, etc. See what you have in the house.
For glue, choose a white glue (PVA) to start. I like Elmers, some people like Aleene’s Tacky, and there are other brands. Toothpicks or small flat brushes can be used to apply the glue. Squeeze a drop onto a scrap piece of card stock, then pick it up with the toothpick or brush.
Some small cylindrical tools are nice for forming cylinders and other curves. I use knitting needles, but there are many other options. And you’ll want some fine-pointed tweezers for handling small parts. I keep a pencil nearby to mark the part number onto the back of the part, but that’s optional.
For edge coloring, I have a 00000 brush, plus a cup of water and paper towel for brush cleaning. I use various watercolors; again, people use all kinds of coloring methods and you can see what you like. Not everyone bothers with edge coloring, but it does improve the finished model’s appearance a great deal.
That’s about it — not too big an investment financially. One of the virtues of this particular hobby
