[Rata]

Must have read my mind Tony! As I've said in previous threads I get my models printed at my local Officeworks. I used to print at home on my Canon inkjet on standard 80gsm cartridge paper and while certainly convenient, got sick of replacing expensive colour ink cartridges. Officeworks printing has a number of advantages- laser print, 100gsm satin paper, pretty good value at 69c per A4 and if they bugger up a print job they have to replace it at they're expense. I usually wait till I've got 6 or 7 models tp print out so I'm not making the trip for single model.
The 100gsm paper they use is of almost photograph quality and really makes a difference especially with models of larger multi-engine types. If I ever start printing at home again it will be on 100gsm paper.
Back to the model, for no particular reason I always start with the fuselage. Anyone who's familiar with S&P knows Bruno puts pink or purple join tabs on his designs. I think they're intended as more of a suggestion than a rigid building rule. I used to do separate joiner tabs a-la-Nobi, but now I cut the part out with the tabs and do most joins as overlaps. I still do the Nobi series of small cuts and for more angled joins (as on the cowl ring here) do 'shark teeth' after scoring the edge.
One of the reasons I use PVA is the very fast way it holds two parts together. A few seconds holding still with fingers or tweezers usually does the trick. If I can apply pressure to it(fingertips or square edge tweezers) the bond is almost instantaneous. I rarely have to use clamps even though I do have a set.
Gluing small bits at a time seems to get the most accurate results for me. As on the main fuselage ring (I always start the fuse in the middle and alternate towards each end) I've put a small dob of PVA at one end to hold; one at the other end and then gently squeezing the part on the sides to open up the remaining seam, brush PVA along the inside and gently press along the seam with fingertips while supporting the part with something solid (dowel, hobby scalpel handle etc) from the inside. I've found doing seams this way helps avoid the unsightly inward 'bowed' look.
The little join tabs around each edge I bend inward slightly with square end tweezers to assist getting the next segment to go over and then again with small glue applications starting at bottom, the top and then the sides. Again, gently squeezing the join helps expose the unglued sections so I can brush a small line of glue. More later.