View Single Post
 
Old 09-03-2019, 10:52 PM
Rata's Avatar
Rata Rata is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 4,822
Total Downloaded: 871.99 MB
Thanks for the endorsement Don. Even though I've tried as much as possible to let the pictures explain, I still need to lay out in the text what I'm trying to show. I just hope it's not too long-winded or confusing.

The dreaded wing-root fairings. A bit like bi-plane rigging: difficult to attach (or can be) yet too important to leave off.
The important thing to remember is the 'double curvature' rule on paper models. You can't break that rule so you have to find ways to work around it. And when it comes to wing root fairings in 1/100 I've found the best way to achieve this is to make or cut down to the absolute minimum while still retaining a convincing appearance.

You can see in the first photo that the fairings for this kit are quite large. This may be scale but on the full size it can be difficult determining visually where the fairing 'starts and finishes'; especially on old and grainy b&w Ki-27 photos!. But that's the idea: they're smoothed out and shaped for reasons of aerodynamic efficiency not aesthetics. A bit like wheel fairings on this and other period types; they certainly look cool but that's not why they're on there!

As is , I'm going to struggle to get that fairing to a concave shape and then persuade it to smoothly go all the way from the rear to the front of the wing. So cut it down I say! On our little 1/100 tiddler doing so is not going to get you in trouble with the Scale Accuracy Police. I do it all the time and if anyone in this forum has noticed, then they've been polite enough not to say anything. Besides, on this particular model it's a case of NEEDING to cut it down as it would have partially obscured that fuselage stripe. Of course the 'proper' way to deal with that would be to draw the obscured part of said stripe onto the fairing at the repaint stage. Nah. Absolute scale accuracy: 0, laziness: 1.

My fairings rarely go further forward than about 1/3 of the chord back from the leading edge.

Before attaching the fairings, roll them along they're length getting them pre-shaped as much as possible. The fiddly bit is holding them in place while trying to get tack-glue points done. I've found it best to glue the point of the fairing at the wing trailing edge first, then smoothing it in gently, small tack glue at the rearmost point at the fuselage. Allow to dry then, with a tooth pick or similar, gently persuade the front point of the fairing into the fuselage/wing junction onto the third and final glue point. Yep, that's right. If careful, I usually get away with each fairing staying down with just three small glue points

When dry and if needed, smooth the rearmost parts of the upper and lower fairings with a round brush handle or similar.

Just re-iterating, the foregoing is how I deal with this part of the model. At the end of the day we do things our own way and if any members have a different and just as effective method then please share with us!

You may have noticed at this point the wing tips are still open. I always do them last and will look at them tomorrow. Thanks again for looking.

Garry G
Attached Thumbnails
How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9610.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9611.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9612.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9613.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9614.jpg  

How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9616.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9617.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9618.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9619.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9620.jpg  

How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9621.jpg   How I Build a 1/100 Model-img_9622.jpg  
__________________
''Oh, stop whining! Can't you just print off another one?''- my wife ca 2018
Reply With Quote