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  #21  
Old 08-31-2011, 09:24 AM
rewalston rewalston is offline
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imcold, thank you for the fantastic model. I have a quick question. I was looking at the model and I noticed that there are a couple of places that say 0.5mm and 1.0mm. I am guessing that these are notations for laminating to cardstock for added thickness? Also will this model print on 8 1/2 x 11 without too much trouble? Love the model and it's definitely on my build list.

Rusty
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  #22  
Old 08-31-2011, 10:46 AM
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imcold imcold is offline
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rewalston: Yes, the numbers are the intended thickness of the parts after laminating. I left more free space at the bottom of the pages, so it should print fine on a shorter US letter format. If it won't, let me know, I'll make a separate PDF.
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  #23  
Old 08-31-2011, 11:04 AM
rewalston rewalston is offline
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will do I'll print a page later today (after I make sure I have enough ink. What paper weight should the model be printed on? I have 199gm paper would this be ok or over kill?

Rusty
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  #24  
Old 08-31-2011, 11:55 PM
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Fargo Fargo is offline
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Originally Posted by ZYON View Post
And nice work on the models "Fargo", and the Origami, I like them a lot.
oh, thank you!!! :D another reason why I love paper
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  #25  
Old 09-01-2011, 03:24 AM
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imcold imcold is offline
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Originally Posted by rewalston View Post
What paper weight should the model be printed on? I have 199gm paper would this be ok or over kill?

Rusty
I recommend something in range of 100-160gsm, 120gsm should be optimal. Lighter paper is better for the small details (like droidplate), heavier for large areas (wings, fuselage bottom skin).
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  #26  
Old 09-01-2011, 04:50 AM
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Loui Loui is offline
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... imcold - Thanks for making the x-wing available for us.... btw i really like your drawing of F-18 Super hornet at devian**. and great job Sagittarius keep the pictures coming.
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  #27  
Old 09-01-2011, 08:24 AM
rewalston rewalston is offline
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Originally Posted by imcold View Post
I recommend something in range of 100-160gsm, 120gsm should be optimal. Lighter paper is better for the small details (like droidplate), heavier for large areas (wings, fuselage bottom skin).
Ok next question Your model is 1:48, I think I'm going to be ornery and do it 1:24 just because I like thinks BIG. I think based on what you said about 128gsm, that the 199gsm I have should work...I'll check and might laminate it to poster board for the thicker stuff. When I get started I'll be sure to try and remember to get pictures.

Rusty
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  #28  
Old 09-03-2011, 12:07 AM
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Rusty: for double size, 199gsm should work fine; although you may have to moisten the paper from backside at some places to bend it easily. Also careful with part F12, it's quite large and it may have the tendency to bend; I imagine it could use a support former in the middle of its length.
And yes, 1:24 will be BIG! :D
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  #29  
Old 09-03-2011, 01:49 AM
rewalston rewalston is offline
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Originally Posted by imcold View Post
Rusty: for double size, 199gsm should work fine; although you may have to moisten the paper from backside at some places to bend it easily. Also careful with part F12, it's quite large and it may have the tendency to bend; I imagine it could use a support former in the middle of its length.
And yes, 1:24 will be BIG! :D
I'm actually a little leary of building it. I looked at the plans and cringed...I've never built a model without tabs before, any suggestions?

Rusty
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  #30  
Old 09-03-2011, 03:26 AM
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imcold imcold is offline
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I use separate paper strips if I feel like it. I cut a long wide strip, fold it in the middle and then cut pieces of appropriate width as needed. Generally, the laminated formers width provides enough area to attach most of the skin pieces to. For some extra area, sand the edges of the former down a bit and glue strips to its circumference, like here: http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/P1050193.jpg (on the right), http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/P1050292.jpg
By the way, the most tricky part of the model is the nose (F18-F20). If you do well on the nose, the rest will be easy.
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