#21
|
|||
|
|||
imcold, thank you for the fantastic model. I have a quick question. I was looking at the model and I noticed that there are a couple of places that say 0.5mm and 1.0mm. I am guessing that these are notations for laminating to cardstock for added thickness? Also will this model print on 8 1/2 x 11 without too much trouble? Love the model and it's definitely on my build list.
Rusty |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
rewalston: Yes, the numbers are the intended thickness of the parts after laminating. I left more free space at the bottom of the pages, so it should print fine on a shorter US letter format. If it won't, let me know, I'll make a separate PDF.
|
#23
|
|||
|
|||
will do I'll print a page later today (after I make sure I have enough ink. What paper weight should the model be printed on? I have 199gm paper would this be ok or over kill?
Rusty |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
oh, thank you!!! :D another reason why I love paper
__________________
take a look at my works on Flickr (link) PLEASE, feel free to correct my English: it's very important for me, a useful way to improve it! |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
I recommend something in range of 100-160gsm, 120gsm should be optimal. Lighter paper is better for the small details (like droidplate), heavier for large areas (wings, fuselage bottom skin).
|
Google Adsense |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
... imcold - Thanks for making the x-wing available for us.... btw i really like your drawing of F-18 Super hornet at devian**. and great job Sagittarius keep the pictures coming.
__________________
WIP: None |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Rusty |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Rusty: for double size, 199gsm should work fine; although you may have to moisten the paper from backside at some places to bend it easily. Also careful with part F12, it's quite large and it may have the tendency to bend; I imagine it could use a support former in the middle of its length.
And yes, 1:24 will be BIG! :D |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Rusty |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
I use separate paper strips if I feel like it. I cut a long wide strip, fold it in the middle and then cut pieces of appropriate width as needed. Generally, the laminated formers width provides enough area to attach most of the skin pieces to. For some extra area, sand the edges of the former down a bit and glue strips to its circumference, like here: http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/P1050193.jpg (on the right), http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/P1050292.jpg
By the way, the most tricky part of the model is the nose (F18-F20). If you do well on the nose, the rest will be easy. |
Google Adsense |
|
|