Warhammer 40K Super Chimera - Page 2

**CharlieC** · #11 06-15-2009, 09:25 PM

The technique you used on the hatch works even better if the card is wet with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol).You'll probably have to protect the printed surface with spray on acrylic otherwise the alcohol attacks the ink.
If you cut the part oversize by about 5mm then the creases will be on the edge which can be removed when you cut the part down to its final size. I used this on the bulged engine cover and drive sprocket end covers in my KV-2 build.

Regards,

Charlie

**silveroxide** · #12 06-15-2009, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CharlieC

The technique you used on the hatch works even better if the card is wet with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol).You'll probably have to protect the printed surface with spray on acrylic otherwise the alcohol attacks the ink.
If you cut the part oversize by about 5mm then the creases will be on the edge which can be removed when you cut the part down to its final size. I used this on the bulged engine cover and drive sprocket end covers in my KV-2 build.

Regards,

Charlie

I did that method on another project but I did not protect the color side and it did mess up the part. I also used water but the ink bled out. Epson printers have permanent ink which do not run. I have a cannon and a HP printer as a back-up but the ink runs. Thanks for the info, I will try it out next chance I get.

**silveroxide** · #13 06-20-2009, 06:28 PM

Well I have a week off, now to post a few pics of the Super Chimera in process.

The cannon barrel housing had a slight error. There is a different template in the misc page.

Finished the troop compartment and the top hatch door.

**silveroxide** · #14 06-25-2009, 08:08 AM

I have been slow to update this build thread. It is done in its entirety at THAT other, site if you should wish to venture there. Recently i have been updating the build thread for my Gatling Gun and have just finished my War between the States Cannon. I will be working on the limber for the cannon next. In the meantime here are a few more pics of the Super Chimera build.

**silveroxide** · #15 06-25-2009, 09:06 PM

More pics. This is one of my longest threads and it is almost half way done. As soon as I get this one out of the way, I will start to upload the Gatling Gun.

Here is the set for the hull and skirts.

This is my technique for making the road wheels. In this variation, I did away with the wheels being attached to the hull. The wheels are controlled by a central column which transfer the weight to the center of the road wheels. that central column in turn is attached to the hull and the drive train.

Visualize the tracks running around that central column. (That is not represented in this build since that part is concealed by the skirt).

In the next posting I will show how I make road wheels. That technique is also applicable to modern armor models as well. See ya next time.

**silveroxide** · #16 06-26-2009, 01:23 PM

More on the Super Chimera. This is the longest process, the making of the wheels. This is a technique I came up with to get a bunch of wheels the same size and less folding. I hate those nasty little tabs.

I use different tools and I do mean tools. I use drill bits sockets small screwdrivers to get cylinders and wheels done.

The wheels are mostly thin strips rolled into wheel shapes. This method can also be used when making modern AFV's and wheels for vehicles. When they are set, you can round the edges with you dremel or sanding block to get a round edge.

In this sequence I used a punch to cut the center of the roundels. I guess my eyes are not too calibrated, but not to worry, at the end, a coat of paint touch-up will take care of the white showing.

The inside strip acts as a stop for the center hub in the wheels. This worked out rather well.

**silveroxide** · #17 06-26-2009, 02:08 PM

More on those wheels. The pics are self explanatory. The inside track can be done with a black color construction paper or you may have to color it in yourself like I did. The inside track should be glued on first to get the curvature right. If you glue the inside to the track pad side, when you fold it around it will bunch up and you may get a gap at the fold.

Each track is laminated to get that raised look. The wheels in this post show how the road wheels are supported centrally from the center post instead of directly to the hull.

**silveroxide** · #18 06-26-2009, 08:38 PM

My Super Chimera, the making of the fuel cans. The format is taken from the German jerry cans. I made a small laminated bulkhead at the top and bottom to make the folding easier.

Small thin strips for the straps holding the jerry cans on. Plus the brackets they sit on.

You have the option of scratch building the head lamps or use the triangle shape one in the plans.

Rolled strips for the smoke grenade launchers. you can place these any place that looks feasible. Once I design the turret version they will look better there.

**silveroxide** · #19 06-26-2009, 10:09 PM

These are the final pics of this build. I will finish any add ons on this forum. The future plans call for a cannon kit to make the hunter killer and a turret mounted Las-Cannon for the traditional turret of the GW Chimera.

here is the making of the cable, made from a strip of heavy paper and rolled until it came out like a heavy thread/cable.

The front Glacis gets an extra sheet of armor to cover the gap and conection of the side front skirts.

The last three pics are for the nuts and bolts guys who are used to the heavy metal look of the Games Workshop imperial armor. I used the beta model to illustrate the use of the rivets.