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  #41  
Old Yesterday, 07:56 AM
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Vermin_King Vermin_King is offline
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I don't know how long the cannon are, but Q-Tip swab sticks are fairly light
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  #42  
Old Yesterday, 08:49 AM
JohnGay JohnGay is offline
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I am contemplating trying this model in 1:18 scale to match the Kenner Action Figures I got to go with the Millenium Falcon Cockpit I built at the same scale.
Of course I'd put Luke in the cockpit and possibly cut a hole for R2-D2 rather than build a paper version.
Usually I'd just print at 267% for the correct scale, but given the current layout, even using my 11" X 17" printer, to many parts cross the page edges on poster setting.
But right now I'm still wondering if I really want a 2 Ft long, 20" wide X-Wing?
Who am I kidding, I'm really wondering if my wife would put up with it (-=
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  #43  
Old Yesterday, 11:22 AM
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imcold imcold is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papierschnitzel View Post
On we go with the lower hull parts. I am not sure how the original intention was to glue them on but I made these connector tabs so I can get the hull into one piece. I cannot imagine another controllable way to get a clean seam between the parts.

Similarly as Peter said, you first glue the hull parts to one of the sides and then lightly to the formers. This image should explain it https://photobucket.com/gallery/user...My5qcGc=/?ref=
Does it need a lot of precision? Definitely

Adding tabs to the backside thickens the part by a small amount, so it likely won't be able to wrap around completely anymore - the former needs to be downscaled in that case. Or you have to use a very thin paper for the tabs.


As for cannons, I used carbon fiber rods - they are lightweight and have smooth surface. I got them in RC model store, I think.
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  #44  
Old Yesterday, 11:32 AM
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Papierschnitzel Papierschnitzel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGay View Post
I am contemplating trying this model in 1:18 scale to match the Kenner Action Figures I got to go with the Millenium Falcon Cockpit I built at the same scale.
Of course I'd put Luke in the cockpit and possibly cut a hole for R2-D2 rather than build a paper version.
Usually I'd just print at 267% for the correct scale, but given the current layout, even using my 11" X 17" printer, to many parts cross the page edges on poster setting.
But right now I'm still wondering if I really want a 2 Ft long, 20" wide X-Wing?
Who am I kidding, I'm really wondering if my wife would put up with it (-=

At this scale I would consider using wood. Even if you find a printer to upscale the parts and get a go from your wife, parts turn into sheets at this scale a will start to wobble and warp.


But I get it, I often dream of stuff like this
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  #45  
Old Yesterday, 11:36 AM
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Papierschnitzel Papierschnitzel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imcold View Post
Similarly as Peter said, you first glue the hull parts to one of the sides and then lightly to the formers. This image should explain it https://photobucket.com/gallery/user...My5qcGc=/?ref=
Does it need a lot of precision? Definitely

Adding tabs to the backside thickens the part by a small amount, so it likely won't be able to wrap around completely anymore - the former needs to be downscaled in that case. Or you have to use a very thin paper for the tabs.


As for cannons, I used carbon fiber rods - they are lightweight and have smooth surface. I got them in RC model store, I think.

The challenge for me is that the formers are quite thin, so there is not a lot of room to glue the hull on properly let alone connect the next hull piece. I know this kind of technique with formers that are more like 2mm wide.



I will use sanding next time to trim the formers a little. It was just a little gap in the end and I am quite happy so far. Thank you for the feedback.


I checked my barbecue sticks and they are 3mm, so a little too thick. Carbon fiber sounds good. Will check out where I can get them here.


Cheers, Chris
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