Build report- Spindrift by Gary Pilsworth

**Ron Caudillo** · #1 08-16-2009, 11:41 PM

I downloaded this model a little bit ago and have been chomping at the bit to build it. Thanks Gary!

There are no step-by-step assembly instructions, but I wasn't going to let that stop me. Gary has provided 2 diagrams that show where everything goes though. I figured that I was supposed to start with part number one and go from there.

In the first photo, parts 1 and 2 are joined. While assembling, I can see that part 1 needed to be bent to fit correctly into part 2.

In photo 2, I have marked where the fold lines of part 1 should be.

In photo 3, I have joined part 3 to parts 1 and 2.

In photo 4, you can see that the end tabs of part 3 will need to be trimmed flush with the edge.

The bottom of the Spindrift is assembled next. According to the parts numbering scheme, part 4 is the rear of the bottom and you work your way towards the front. I have chosen to reverse this order because I thought it would be easier to build from the front and work towards the read.

Photo 5 shows part 8 joined to part 2.

So far, the parts fit perfect! The only thing is that the junction of parts 1, 2, and 3 didn't come together perfectly, but that is probably due to my poor eyesight. This is hidden when the top is joined later on, so it didn't make any difference.

Best Regards,

**Ron Caudillo** · #2 08-17-2009, 12:01 AM

I wanted to show a few things along the way.

Photo 1 shows how I have pre-curved the pieces to form the bottom. They really go together nicely and you don't have to fight them if you do this.

Photo 2 shows how I thin down the tabs to allow me to use tabs but get a faux "butt-joint" type of fit. In retrospect, I should have cut off the tabs and used a joining strip behind them. You would get a smoother bottom curve that really looks good. But I didn't this time.

Photo 3 shows 2 tools I have made that are indespensible to me. The one on the left is a very small crochet hook that I have ground off the hook end and rounded the tip. I use this for applying glue and as a small burnishing tool. Because it is metal, glue is easy to clean off of it. The one on the right is a 6 inch length of stainless steel welding rod. I have ground a blunt point on one end, and have rounded the other end. I use this as a burnishing tool, to press down on tabs that are drying, a forming tool (to stick up inside to press outwards), and to roll small tubes. This is a very useful tool and I can't build without it. I can also use it to clean off excess glue squeezed from a joint.

Photos 4 and 5 show the pieces glued into place to finish the bottom. Everything fits perfectly! The only comment I have is that the junction directly behind the front grill/window assembly has a lot of joint junctions that fit together at this point and you have to make sure they all match up. Mine had a very small hole that I was afraid might be visible after the top is glued into place- there wasn't, but the tabs tend to make a small bump that may cause the top to raise in this area.

Best Regards,

**Ron Caudillo** · #3 08-17-2009, 06:10 AM

Hi all,
Ok, so with the bottom completed, I added part 9, which is the bulkhead former. Gary did a superb job in providing this part. Without it, you would never be able to form the required cross-section.

The 2 photos show the bulkhead in place. I knew I had to be sure that the bulkhead did not extend past the end of the bottom (part 4) because there will be a visible gap between it and the engine assembly that is glued to it.

When I glued the bulkhead in place, I first glued only the tabs that fit into the side ends of part 4. This way I ensired it would not be off-center. Then I finished with the remaining tabs.

As I mentioned above, care must be taken to ensure the bulkhead does not extend past the rear of part 4.

Best Regards,

**Ron Caudillo** · #4 08-17-2009, 07:06 AM

The next part in number sequence is the top but I decided to skip ahead and build the top dome parts. Here is the dome being built. I'm not very good at building domes that are made using the petal method, but here goes anyway.

I got this idea to to make them from one of the forum members, sorry I can't remember who. His method has really helped me and have modified it just a bit.

As you can see in the first photo, my main problem is that there is always a small open circle at the point where the tips meet. So I cut out a small circle to be just a bit larger than this hole and have colored it. I have also cut off all of the tabs from the dome piece.

In the second photo, I have turned the dome upside down and pushed down (gently!) on the rim until the tips meet (as best I can). Then I apply a VERY small drop of glue on the tips and place the cut circle from the above step (colored side down) and hold this in place until the glue sets.

Once the glue sets, which is not normally a long time because I used just a very small drop, I need to reinforce the inside. I cut a small piece of tissue and apply aglue to the inside of the dome and press the tissue into place. The glue sets up almost immediately and the tissue holds everything in place. You can then turn the dome over and because the dome is still a bit soft because of the glue, you can very gently finish shaping the dome untill you either get it decent looking or the glue finishes setting.

Best Regards,

**Ron Caudillo** · #5 08-17-2009, 07:29 AM

Hi all,
I am finishing up with the upper dome parts.

In the first photo, I have glued the completed dome to the upper surface of the dome projection. I did this first because it's easier for me this way.

In the second photo, I have glued the wrap-around piece in place. I'll let this dry for a bit before I glue it in place.

In the third photo, I am starting to glue the top into place. I have pre-formed it to make it easier and I will not have to fight with it to get it to stay in place. Getting the top piece right is very crititical to the appearance of the model so I have to get this right. I'm trying to decide the best way to get it lined up and started. I ended up gluing one of the straight sides of the top to the bottom. Once I made sure it was set correctly, I waited a bit to make sure the glue was set and this joint will not shift when continuing. I had to make sure that the rear edge of the top is lined up with the rear bulkhead correctly.

In the fourth photo, I have glued the top to the rear bulkhead along the top (again making sure the alighment with the rear bulkhead is correct), then glued the other straight side into place. This leaves the entire front open (see photo 5) and it sort of looks like an open sharks mouth (remember Jaws from Fiddlers Green?). I had to let this dry completly before continuing.

In the fifth photo, I have glued the top dome piece into place before closing the front. I'm glad I pre-built the dome and let everything dry before I attached it. I had to press from inside and also down on the dome to get it to line up in place correctly. I had problems getting the dome to completly cover the white portion on the top completly, but finally managed it. Gary, maybe you might consider making this white portion a little smaller to help out with this. I had to play with it for a bit to get it in place just right.

Best Regards,

**Keds_Girl_Lala** · #6 08-17-2009, 07:40 AM

I like this very much. I find these using Google it show the model from the TV show

The window in the top it is not round but is droplet-shapped FYI

Spindrift, Land of the Giants

**jagolden01** · #7 08-17-2009, 07:45 AM

Ron, nice work on such a complicated shape!

**Ron Caudillo** · #8 08-17-2009, 07:59 AM

Hi all,
The Spindrift is coming along nicely!

Closing the front was a minor challenge and I needed 20 fingers to hold everwhere at once. The edge seams match up really well and Gary did a superb job in the design to get them right. I was a bit concerned that I would have alignment problems or that there would be puckering or wrinkling, but this did not happen.

Once the dome section was completly dry, I decided to try to glue the entire front opening together at the same time. Other than trying to hold it all together, theer were no problems- it fit perfectly. There is a lot of pressure fighting this joint and I had to constantly move my clamping fingers around, sort of reminded me of multiple leaks in a dike trying to hold the areas that tried to open as the glue set.

I had to be very careful to not let glue get on my fingers and ruin the appearance of the outer surfaces of the model.

You can see in the second picture that I was not very successful to get the edges lined up perfect before the glue set, but it is not visible when viewed from above.

Once the glue was set (but not dry) I made a small hole in the rear bulkhead and used my welding rod burnishing tool to press outwards from the inside of the seam that I just glued to make sure the tabs were making contact and to push outwards any dents or concave areas that I made when holding the front closed. I love this tool!

The front portion is done and I'm very pleased with the model so far.

Best Regards,

**Gixergs** · #9 08-17-2009, 08:15 AM

Wonderful job on both build and the Master Class of the building.

**tazman3** · #10 08-17-2009, 09:29 AM

Nice stuff, Ron. Glad to see you are back at it...going to have a new build thread myself soon...just getting my life back together...looking forward to the rest of this build!