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  #61  
Old 03-19-2020, 02:11 AM
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Has anyone else built this model?

Have any build-fit tips?
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  #62  
Old 03-19-2020, 11:40 AM
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Years ago I did some work on a diorama of "The battle of Wolf359" for a friend's Card and Game shop. I got most of the ships built but not modded with battle damage yet when he lost his shop in his devorce. But I have pictures of the USS Melbourne. I changed the name and NCC# on D-WHALE's fixed 1/1700 version to make it the Melbourne.

I see now what you mean about the nacelle length. I think that it needs to be lengthened another 1/4 of the existing length. That should be about the right visual length.

The length of the nacelle as built in 1/1700 is 6 5/16" or 160mm
Attached Thumbnails
Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200319_120041.jpg   Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200319_120054.jpg   Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200319_120150.jpg   Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200319_120245.jpg   Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200319_120302.jpg  

Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200319_120347.jpg  
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  #63  
Old 03-19-2020, 10:47 PM
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Thanks much!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ennder View Post
Years ago I did some work on a diorama of "The battle of Wolf359" for a friend's Card and Game shop. I got most of the ships built but not modded with battle damage yet when he lost his shop in his devorce. But I have pictures of the USS Melbourne. I changed the name and NCC# on D-WHALE's fixed 1/1700 version to make it the Melbourne.

I see now what you mean about the nacelle length. I think that it needs to be lengthened another 1/4 of the existing length. That should be about the right visual length.

The length of the nacelle as built in 1/1700 is 6 5/16" or 160mm



Thanks for sharing your build. In addition to helping with the nacelle length issue, I am seeing where some of the page parts are supposed to be folded and placed. Real helpful!


Did you have any tips to fit the pieces tightly? There seems to be some fit issues that warp the model, if tightly fit in the secondary hull, or require gaps to not twist the frame? Did you experience this?

This is a real good kit; I'm just trying to figure how to build it well. Thanks for your information!
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  #64  
Old 03-19-2020, 11:32 PM
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THE DC THE DC is offline
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how long are my barins?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ennder View Post

I see now what you mean about the nacelle length. I think that it needs to be lengthened another 1/4 of the existing length. That should be about the right visual length.

The length of the nacelle as built in 1/1700 is 6 5/16" or 160mm


You inspired me to do some detective work and I may know why the nacelles are off on this kit! The game designers may have referenced Probert's planning drawings, not the model that was built, resulting in two differences from the finished model.

In the Probert drawing, the nacelles were farther back, aft of the primary hull. The gap between the nacelle fronts and the impulse engines is less in the actual model.

Additionally, the length is less in the Probert conceptual plans, and hangs off the stern less. I used a ruler and measured the differences in the model and a captured image of the filming model for difference. The 1:700 kit has a length of 26.1 1/2 cm, where the nacelles measure, unbuilt, at 23.8 cm. That would be a bit longer with the intermix coolers built onto the aft of the nacelle. So the nacelles are a bit less long on the model than the primary hull.

When measuring the differences on a screen capture of the filming model, at a direct angle, the primary hull was 17.6 cm; the nacelles were 16.8 cm long [17 cm to the tip of the intercooler].


That would suggest that I splice about 2 cm to the kits engines?



So the filming model measurements would suggest that the nacelles should be almost the same length as the engineering hull; not an almost 2% difference.
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  #65  
Old 03-20-2020, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DC View Post
Thanks for sharing your build. In addition to helping with the nacelle length issue, I am seeing where some of the page parts are supposed to be folded and placed. Real helpful!


Did you have any tips to fit the pieces tightly? There seems to be some fit issues that warp the model, if tightly fit in the secondary hull, or require gaps to not twist the frame? Did you experience this?

This is a real good kit; I'm just trying to figure how to build it well. Thanks for your information!
There are waves in the saucer, but I assumed that was from my reinforcing it with cardboard, not from any fit issues. In some parts of the model, the edges overlap, but I don't have any gaps.

I started the secondary hull by reinforcing the top of it with 2mm of solid cardboard so that it would not warp or twist. There is also 2mm of solid cardboard in each of the nacelles pylons.

There were a few parts that I could not figure out where they went, and ended with leaving them out. In the last picture in my post above you see the shuttle dock. I used a flat image here because I could not work out how to assemble the parts for it (until after the build was finished).
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  #66  
Old 03-21-2020, 02:34 AM
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As requested...

Here's the pics of the pages with the parts numbered and circled in red to identify some that I am not sure about how to use, or possibly even what they are supposed to represent in the kit.


1 Not sure what this is or where to attach it!

2 -possibly where the neck connects under primary hull?

3 -absolutely clueless as to what these are or do...

4 -possibly the intercooler at the aft of the nacelles?

5 -possibly the lower fins on the aft of the nacelles?

6 -again; no idea!!!

7 -equally mystified at this...

8 -possibly the upper shuttle bay observation deck assembly but not sure how to fold & use...

9 -again, part of that assembly? Not sure...

10 -the 2 fins [from these 4 pieces] behind the bridge?


Also very uncertain how to construct the nacelles from the parts. I have figured that the one is a base, and the limited detail parts provide spacers between the flux-chiller [appearing] section, but the light blue upper part appears too short and the positioning of the smaller parts seems odd; they even appear too large on the finished model. I'm trying to reconcile how to fit these.


PS. I tried extending the nacelles today by 2 cm to see if that solved the length issue, but my computer just shut down in the effort; possibly due to memory limitations. I may try this adjustment to the nacelles again after clearing my RAM tomorrow.
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Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-uncertain-excelsior-parts.jpg  
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  #67  
Old 03-21-2020, 10:18 AM
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Ok, now I see what you are talking about.
Below are photos of where those parts go, along with a note on #6 as it will NOT be seen on the finished model. It took me a while to remember where it went.
Attached Thumbnails
Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200321_104720.jpg   Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200321_104753.jpg   Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200321_104804.jpg   Clever & D-Whale's reworked U.S.S. Excelsior-20200321_104814.jpg  
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  #68  
Old 03-22-2020, 02:41 AM
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Now THAT is helpful!


Thanks!!!
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  #69  
Old 03-22-2020, 10:18 AM
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no problem .... happy to help
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  #70  
Old 03-30-2020, 01:48 PM
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Hi guys! sorry for the late answer, but we here in Germany have still no access to Papermodelers.com without a VPN-access. So i check not so often this site anymore!

Ennder explained all the parts correctly! (good build btw )

Thats the different between my models and game ripped stuff!
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