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Old 04-01-2010, 05:11 AM
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Tapcho Tapcho is offline
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Tinkerbell - a fairy with an attitude

Couple of weeks ago I desided to try one of UHU02's models namely the Tinkerbell. She has always ben my all time favourite fairy character and still is. I wished to get her assembled in time for easter but little did I know. I have wondered occasionally why UHU's models so seldom see built - now I think I know. They take sooooo loooong time to finish and an average ADHD modeler like me just wants to drop the project. Couple of hours work spreaded over a weeks period and only this little done (I had to have two tries with the head before I got it done). But I decided that this is one project I won't reject.

I made couple of major mistakes on the way:
- I printed it on a heavy stock - should use singleweight (but I'll go to the bitter end with this stock)
- on my first attempt I did the face and the hair separately only to find out that it was virtually impossible to join them at that stage (one really should plan carefully to glueing order within a part and among joining parts)

UHU's designs need a lot of planning, testing and dry fitting before glueing can take place and that takes time. Most of the glueing has to done step by step allowing the joint time to cure. There are only five parts in the head but nearly 80 tabs!

So here she is - a fairy with an attitude. I shall continue this tale after my flu goes over. Happy Easter time to everybody.
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Tinkerbell - a fairy with an attitude-tinkerbell.jpg   Tinkerbell - a fairy with an attitude-tinker-head.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 04-01-2010, 05:24 AM
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Tim Crowe Tim Crowe is offline
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Looking good. Like the holder idea.

Tim
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:13 AM
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rbeach84 rbeach84 is offline
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Weird, I started it too...

Last night, I printed out the kit. First, I did a print straight from the PDF onto heavy stock. Then I had an idea of somehow printing it so both sides of the wings were colored, so I did a 'screen print' capture to the Windows Clipboard, then pasted into a Word document for sizing. This worked, but how to get the back of the parts printed? So, I copied the Word Image and pasted into MSPaint then did a "Flip" and then pasted that back into the Word doc as a separate page. Since I can use the Image Box Format functions to both center and size the boxes identically, I just printed each page separately, running the sheet through the printer twice and so ended up with a mirror image on the back - which gave me wings colored on both sides!

Then I determined the wings would look better using thinner stock, so they appeared more translucent, so I repeated using regular paper stock instead of the 110# card stock.

One lesson from this is that the print from Adobe Reader was more distinct (can see the stranding in the hair parts) than my copy-pasted versions in Word or Paint. I wish there was a way for the PDF to be configured so the parts could be "shuffled" around even if they cannot be edited, but that might be a stretch...

After all this, I took the leaf "base" from the card sheet (single sided print) and embossed the 'vein' pattern from the back (first held up to a light so I could lightly pencil the pattern on back), then flipped it and 'rubbed' in between the vein pattern to further 'raise' the detail. I used an old wooden paint brush handle for this - not the best perhaps, but it did the job. Then I took the paper version with the mirrored print and used a glue stick to laminate both the card and paper to 1) thicken the leaf and 2) provide color to the underside so my intended 'edge curl' will look okay.

So, UHU02's model obviously challenges the modeler to think about "what comes next" and provide some creative process work. Thanks for the 'heads-up' on the paper weight issue, Tapcho. I will use the head parts to test building using both card and paper - it may work best using a mixture of both (for example, the 'shoes' and dress may be better in card while the natural translucence of the lighter paper may look & build better for the 'skin' parts.) I do intend to remove many of the glue tabs and replace them with internal reinforcement strips (when possible or indicated) to have smoother joints, especially for 'rolled', cylindrical parts. Also, I am attempting to cut on the inside of the outlines to help hide the joints better - for this model, a "no-lines" version would have been great.

Further observations/ thoughts at this point: besides the wings, I plan on using the 'extra' hand parts to provide underside color - they appear to be essentially symmetrical left & right, so just a bit of 'touchup' with colored pencils to obscure the 'fingernail' detail and "Bob's your uncle".
Also, might I be able to print the eyes on glossy photo paper, cut out eyes from head and glue the 'glossy' version from inside? While I'm doing that, I may add the eye lashes as well. Plus, looks like I need to add a small ribbbon to the hair bun and some fine 'glitter' as pixie dust - for 'accuracy' - Ha! Am I afflicted with AMS or what!

I will try and post some IW images if I can figure out how to do that...
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In Work: Uhu02 Tinkerbell - [under Tapcho's thread] Tinkerbell - a fairy with an attitude
Nobi Junkers SRF BETA build - BETA Build: Nobi's Junkers SRF 1:48 scale

Last edited by rbeach84; 04-02-2010 at 09:24 AM. Reason: More info
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:20 AM
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Tapcho Tapcho is offline
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Hi Robert,
Couple of ideas we share. I thought about the wings too, but decided to try inkjet transparencies instead. Lets see how that works, haven't got that far yet. The leaf surely gets some treatment by me too and the ribbon is a must. But the hands I didn't think at all. I'll look your solution first and mimic it then - saves me at least the effort of figuring it out. Good luck with your build, hope to see some pics. :-)
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Old 04-02-2010, 04:26 PM
hancocp hancocp is offline
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There's no download link on ?<link rel="stylesheet" href=../../x/x.css>: #19[Tinker Bell].

Any idea where could I d/l this model from - fairy-mad daughter just saw this and wants one ...
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:55 PM
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SJPONeill SJPONeill is offline
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hancocp...the answer lies at www.zealot.com...you will need to join up to find the answer...sorry to be so obtuse but the designer of these models has laid a bit of a treasure hunt of anyone who wants to d/l them (has been burned by priates a few times int he past and works on the theory that the average paper model pirate is too lazy to spend any time on the hunt) and we try our best to respect his wishes...this question comes up every couple of weeks so trying to heading the angsting that normally accompanies it...
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Old 04-03-2010, 04:56 AM
2Kamser 2Kamser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hancocp View Post
There's no download link on ? #19[Tinker Bell] <link removed>.

Any idea where could I d/l this model from - fairy-mad daughter just saw this and wants one ...
hi hancocp
i guaratee you it is a well worth "treasurehunt" as UHU has done some amazing models which are downloadable if you only "pass the needles eye" so to speak
myself i'm honing my skills until i got enough of it to be able to tackle the C3-PO, i'm almost there...
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:14 AM
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Tapcho Tapcho is offline
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Just do as you're adviced here. Register to zealot.com and search - you'll find your way soon. When you get there eventually remenber to to set cookies on with your browser. ;-)

I must admit that I first thought this was ridiculous but the 'treasure hunt' proofed to be real fun even at this age. Anyways why should everything be easy? Matters are more worthy if you ned to invest some effort in it - kinda lame but so true.
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:36 AM
hancocp hancocp is offline
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Thanks all, will head over to Zealot and start the paper-chase. Still quite new to finding the papermodels I want, and hadnt seen the back-story to the uhu02 models.
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:59 AM
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rbeach84 rbeach84 is offline
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Alligator wrestling...

...is what I call it! I completed the head last night and it was a doozy! I will try and figure out how to post pixs over the weekend, and I may also do it again! I learned a lot just from doing it, but the result isn't half bad, just think I can do better. I took Tapcho's advice about building the face and hair together (to a degree) but found that it might be best to do both simultaneously so I can exactly match up the seams between the two main parts of the head. Definitely use standard paper for the head parts, however!

My impression doing the main 'hair' part, which comprises the entire back of the head - and looks like an octopus when cut out (kinda behaves like one, too!) - is that a very specific sequence of gluing would be more successful than any other. I could not really visualize the part until I had nearly completed it. It incorporates a lot of complex curvature including a 'bulge' effect for the hair on the sides of the head. Wonderful!

Essentially, I suspect the hair part is best built from the bottom-up. The bottom is the roughly triangular part that stays basically flat with the 'arms' of the octopus then curling around to meet at a seam that runs up the centerline of the back of the head. Each pair of arms overlaps the previous such that the globe of the head 'stacks' up easier than the reverse (which is what I did, not knowing where to start.) I found that my metal 'puttying tool', which has a tiny spoon shaped end, was invaluable in getting the proper curl induced in the arms (I was able to access the seams from the inside and "curled" as I went...)

I believe I will write up my experiences as a set of "instructions" to share, but for anyone doing this right now, I might recommend that the face and head go like this:

1- Face: set the primary curvature and get the main seam from forehead to chin set so the nose and mouth are formed. The chin will be pretty 'pointy', but leave the jaw and temple/top seams 'open' at this point.

2 - Hair/head part. Start with the triangular segment and then work up from there, curling & gluing each subsequent segment 'pair' up to about the 'halfway' point. Then set the remaining curvature to the central 'ring', taking care where it narrows near the 'top'.

3 - Carefully match the face forehead seams to the corresponding part of the hair ring using the joint 'line' on the hair part as a guide. Keep the 'centerlines' aligned and work top seam, then the side seams of the face, then join the face sides to the hair piece. This will require using a 'curling tool' that can reach inside the head assembly to aid in getting the joints aligned. Do a bit at a time and try and curl the paper to reduce the amount of 'stress' at the joints while the glue sets.

4 - Complete the rest of the head, 'shingling' up to the top. Then close off the 'jawbone' seams.

5 - Lastly, there are three more 'hair' parts, which are best formed and *then* attached to the head. One is the "bun" part, which was straight-forward to form as a 'globe' by starting a seam then alternating from one side of the start to the other, until glued all around. Again, the 'curling' tool is indispensable. The remaining two are 'curved sheet' parts that represent the 'bangs'. The larger is applied over the smaller. On both, close the seams that provide the curvature and then attach to the head. I attached the larger section out of alignment with the smaller - both should align to the same 'hair part line' across the top. Do a 'dry fit' and refer to the pictures of the complete model to get the proper 'lay' on the face - both eyes and eyebrows should be visible and almost all of the face-to-head joint should be covered. Placement of the 'bun' assembly is aided by the centerline seam and the fact that there is a slight "point' on the back of the head that can be covered by the bun. However, looking at the cartoon reference image, it appears the bun should be nearly on the top of the head...?

There are probably other tips, such as I removed the glue tabs from the face part for smoothness but kept the one for the hair (actually introduced a bit of texture...) but I will stop for now. If you are new to paper modeling, this one is a good one to test your skills, since it is one sheet for the parts and a lot of challenging assembly to 'workout' on... more later!
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In Work: Uhu02 Tinkerbell - [under Tapcho's thread] Tinkerbell - a fairy with an attitude
Nobi Junkers SRF BETA build - BETA Build: Nobi's Junkers SRF 1:48 scale

Last edited by rbeach84; 04-16-2010 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Added info/comment
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