uhu02's noisy cricket build thread

[Squirrel]

here is peice 12. the instructions are more vauge than usual on both this part and the next one. can anyone tell me where peice 13 goes? how does it fit? it looks like some grating or something. any info at all is welcome.

airdave?

anyone?

[Squirrel]

here is peices 13, 14, 15, and 16.

13 probably will not be in the model. i will use a peice of screen, like from a screen door or a window screen.

[Squirrel]

here is peice 17. slide the barrel (14-16) into the center.





come on, guys. i need feedback!

[Squirrel]

alright. here are parts 18 (on the barrel) 19, and 20.

must have input! mooooore input!

[silveroxide]

Uhu mentioned that this was a difficult build but you seem to be doing ok so far. I am still impressed that you are still using that pocket knife and getting some good results.

[Squirrel]

here are parts 21-25.

the only note here are that the "nose cone" of 21-28 (not built yet) is very very small. pay special attention to the cuts here.

[Squirrel]

attach parts 17-28 together like so:

part 29 (trigger) is beneath the barrel assembly above.

[cMags]

This is looking pretty nice man, a little rough around the edges but not bad at all, and most importantly, you seem to be learning and enjoying the process.

A few recommendations:

It has been said, but you will achieve much more precision with a hobby knife. You don't need a $20 Exacto set - any generic craft knife with replaceable blades will do. I use a penknife that came with a small cutting mat and a number of replacement blades that I picked up a couple packs of at Microcenter for $1.99 each (for the whole kit). Works great for me. The precision comes from a very sharp edge (razor sharp, which is not normally achievable with a sharpened knife), and the ability to grip the knife close to the blade's point.

Cylinders, cones, tubes, and other rounded parts can be pre-formed by rolling a cylindrical object such as a pen barrel, dowel, or my most recent discovery and toolkit addition, knitting needles of various sizes. Place the part on a soft surface (mouse pad, palm, thigh, etc.) with the inside of the curve up. Roll the tool back and forth across the part pressing into the soft surface. The paper will bend toward the tool. Do this gradually, deepening the curve until it gets to where you need it. The part should hold its shape without any glue applied, so that when you do apply the glue, it doesn't try to pull. This will give you a smooth curve without any wrinkles or folds. Takes some practice but gives great results.

Otherwise keep up the great work! :D

[Squirrel]

i suppose that one of the first things i do after i get a job will be to invest in a hobby knife. however, i think part of my sloppyness comes from gross incompetence. this will be the second model for me that counts for any difficulty, as the only model of any significance i have made completely by myself is a mech that i put together with doublesided tape and normal paper (not cardstock). i made airdave's livewire, halo, and have half done the other mech, but exept for the mech, they are "simple" models. this is my first time using edge-joining techniqes, complex cuts (thus the pocketknife), and joining strips, so i think that some of the mistakes are made because i am obcenely new at card modeling.

i am sure i will get better though, and with the constructive criticism and advice you and airdave give me, i will rise out of my noobness and into expertdom. that and a craft knife.

so continue to post, and i will continue to learn.

[SJPONeill]

Regardless of the tools that you are using, I think the results are coming out OK - if many of us posted pics from our first attempts, you'd probably feel even better: mine first paper model attempt turned into a big mess of crumpled paper and glue - and that was BEFORE I screwed it up and tried again...