The Medieval City - take two

[redhorse]

This is really interesting, a whole town!

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by tazman3

George, man keep up the good work! I loved your other thread and I'm loving this one already...just awesome, immaculate work...great stuff. Hey, how do YOU keep your long edges nice and square...as you might know I pretty much ask this of everyone who does a arch build thread...

Hi Tazman. Fancy finding you here mate. lol You beat me to it actually.

Originally Posted by glounsbury

...For best results the crease should be on the inside of the fold...

Thanks for your nice tips here. Love the build you are doing. I need to try your method of scoring on the inside of the fold. I always score on the outside. Never occurred to me to try it the other way around but I will give it a try.

Cheers and good luck with your City. Looks great.

Jim

[tazman3]

I am going to try that method of folding...it is similar to the way you might fold a photoetched brass part...it would probably eliminate the waviness I get sometimes in a long tab. But, I actually WAS talking about gluing LOL. But that's ok...I wasn't specific, and that was a great tip.

Too, I have always wondered about the scoring...would that not depend greatly on how the model was designed?...what I'm saying is couldn't you potentially need to score in the middle on one model, then outside on another, then inside...well, you get the idea...and how would you know which to choose?

[glounsbury]

Jim,

I found that the scribe weakens the fibers of the paper so that they will tear easier in tension and when the scribe is in the outside of the fold (mountain side in origami) they will tear a bit. it is not bad but can look not so good as the white paper shows a lilttle. With the crease on the inside (valley) the damage is in compression and so does not tear. To mark the crease I use a pin and punch holes at each end of the line to be creased. It can get confusing if there are lots of creases.
George

[glounsbury]

Taz,
yes, some folds are mountain folds where the printed side is a bulge at the fold others are valley folds where the printed side is a depression at the fold. To keep the crease on the compression side of the fold the mountain fold should be creased on the back (unprinted side). This would be all four edges of a box for example.

Okay, on to glueing. I use two kinds of glue UHU and Elmers. UHU is the main glue I use. The white glue only when I need a thin glue so it is diluted about 50% with water when I do use it. The UHU glue has much less tendency to wrinkle or soften the paper than white glue. It also has some slipperyness that give me time to get the joit aligned correctly. I have a scrap piece of light cardboard (about 3"x8") and put a dab of glue on it from the bottle. Then I use a toothpick or a long straight pin to apply the glue to the model. I usually apply the glue to the recieving part of the model not to the tab. Then set the tab in place. Once things are aligned well I use tweezers or long nosed pliers to clamp the joint, long joints at each end. The clamp pressure helps set the glue and stops slipping. if the joint is long and I can get support on one side I will extend the pressure with a wood stick or the metal straight edge. Finally the hard part, put the part down and let the glue finish drying. I assume that all that folding and manipulating before glueing has the pieces fitting together so very little pressure ( preferable none) is needed to keep thigs in place.

Is this clear enough?
George

[bagpiper]

Originally Posted by glounsbury

Jim,

I found that the scribe weakens the fibers of the paper so that they will tear easier in tension and when the scribe is in the outside of the fold (mountain side in origami) they will tear a bit. it is not bad but can look not so good as the white paper shows a lilttle. With the crease on the inside (valley) the damage is in compression and so does not tear. To mark the crease I use a pin and punch holes at each end of the line to be creased. It can get confusing if there are lots of creases.
George

What a great explanation on the reason why this would work. I too use pins to mark the score line but the opposite way to what you are doing. I have been scoring all my folds on the mountain side of the fold. It is a lot more work to score on the reverse as most model score lines are on the mountain side. I will try this method out for the remainder of my build.

Thanks for the tip.

Cheers
Jim

[tazman3]

That is right on point, George...I need to get me some clamping tweezers of some kind...I'm thinking that will be my biggest help in gluing long surfaces.

We are talking about two different things with the scoring though...you are right, scoring to the inside of the fold does eliminate the "tear out" and ragged folded edges...and it is better for coloring edges too because if you pre-coat your pages, you will not get any bleed at all. However, you do have to score deeper...if you don't then you will get a fold that wants to resist and pull away from your joint...and that can be bad news sometimes.

What I was talking about was where you score in relation to the fold line itself...do you score directly ON the fold line, just to the inside, just to the outside...like I said, I guess it would depend on how it was designed...so far I have always scored right on the line...but I wondered if it would make a difference sometimes.

[glounsbury]

Taz,
I score right on the marked line or on the pin holes on the back. I can then minor adjust the actual fold with the location of the straight edge. (experience is the best teacher on just how close to the crease to set the edge that is held down) This can even be done after the initial fold if it is not to much (now we are talking fractions of mm's)
Jim,
Gross over folding helps getting the correct angle to the fold.

George

[Mr. Hawley]

Every time I see a build like this I wish I could shrink down to scale and walk through the town/village/castle

[glounsbury]

Mr. Hawley,
Video cameras are very small and not very expensive. Maybe I should get one and take you on a tour.
George