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  #11  
Old 02-13-2018, 06:55 AM
rmks2000 rmks2000 is offline
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DC

Having grown up on Long Island and still visit family there, I never realized that there were windmills still standing. I was curious as to where if any still exist. It looks like East Hampton has several still standing and open to the public.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2018, 10:03 AM
mhvink mhvink is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmks2000 View Post
DC

Having grown up on Long Island and still visit family there, I never realized that there were windmills still standing. I was curious as to where if any still exist. It looks like East Hampton has several still standing and open to the public.
There are also two standing at the west end of San Francisco's Golden Gate Park.

Mike
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2018, 10:06 AM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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All very interesting and informative.

Don
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2018, 02:46 PM
Maltedfalcon Maltedfalcon is offline
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the blueprints and photos of the beebe windmill in high res are here.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/C...pton,_New_York) << well I have no idea why the direct link doesnt work but go there and click next to the lightbulb....
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:55 PM
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Windmills

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmks2000 View Post
DC

Having grown up on Long Island and still visit family there, I never realized that there were windmills still standing. I was curious as to where if any still exist. It looks like East Hampton has several still standing and open to the public.

Yes, there is one left on the south fork but most are gone.

There was one off Flander's Rd, near Riverhead, that was a smock mill but it was demolished years ago. A few pics still exist.

The same for the one formerly near Mattituck.

There's the Bee Bee in the Hamptons that's ben preserved [see pic]. A few others, a dozen, are in the Hamptons, still standing. Most were moved there.


Hook Mill was moved to the Hamptons and is a tourist spot [pic 2].

The LI mills were mostly smock type and once ago, much more plentiful...


There was a builder near Mattituck that reproduced the one that had been lost years ago, and used it to promote his business. I don't know where it went but he sold the reproduction. It was a very nice job of recreation.

I photographed it some years ago. If I can find the pics would you like me to share them?
Attached Thumbnails
Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-beebewindmill.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-800px-hook_windmill_in_east_hampton.jpg  
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:34 PM
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Exclamation More optional steps

OPTIONAL!



Off Instructions work:



The next described steps are not required or suggested by the model designer.


My first diversion from the kit was to mirror the sails to have some graphics on each side, rather than have an attractive front, but as soon as you turn the model around, you'd see white paper. After touching up the original model coloration issues, I cut out the white paper between the frame squares of the bracketing that makes up the sail structure. This isn't called upon in the model description, but what I like about taking this extra step is that you can see through the structure.

Pic 1



These pieces are in-process of my recoloring exercise of the parts, as the frame is separated from the kit whitespace. I glued the mirrored parts I copied to the back of the standard kit piece and was careful to match up the parts. The four sails are different and if you don't match up the original piece to the mirrored part, you'll not get a good fit on both front and back side, especially if you cut out the white space between the frame pieces.

Now you'll have a sail that is attractive on the front or back, plus be able to see through the frame-work not covered by the 2D sail.

Pic 2



Now to add to the 3D texture, I cut out the arm of the sail that holds the frame, on extra parts sheets and extra mired parts sheets that I had at ready, laminating another layer on the front and back to make the piece look more believable. Now the arm of the sail is thicker than the frame brackets that hols the canvass.

Pic 3


The arm piece should be glued upon the full sail piece, adding more dimension to the texture of the piece.

Pic 4


Once glued on both sides, the arm of the sail will be one layer more than the doubled entire sail piece, adding texture and dimension.


Pic 5

Now, with the pieces cut out, you'll want to use pencils and markers to color the edges of the doubled and laminated pieces to clean up the look. At this point your sails are attractive from both sides and they have some texture delineating the arm as thicker than the frame of the sail's veins. Now the next challenge will come with making the 2D canvass, depicted in the artwork as stretched over the sail frames, as looking a bit more realistic.
Attached Thumbnails
Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-beginning-touch-up.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-laminating-thin-sails.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-laminaton-bracket.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-fitting-lamination.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-laminated-sail-bracket.jpg  

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  #17  
Old 02-15-2018, 09:16 PM
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Exclamation OPTIONAL build choices

OPTIONAL!



Off Instructions work:

One pic I should have have included in the last section shows the cutting of the canvass connection to the sail brackets, to remove more whitespace.
This pic illustrates that I cut out the rectangular white portions between the brackets and the curved portions of whitespace resulting from where the canvass is stretched over the frame, connected at the arm in several places.


Pic 1





Now lets look at the canvass across the veins, or sail framing as an opportunity to increase detail. In the printed model, this is just drawn on, providing a nice 2D image. My suggestion is to add a bit more to your kit's look by creating a texture and dimension from using what the model provides to make the sail-canvass look like its stretched across three dimensionally.

To accomplish this, you'll need to copy the model on regular stock paper again (don't forget to mirror too!).

Cut out the four sail canvass sections, keeping the four sets separate from each other, but noting where the canvass section mates with the frame as which was printed on the original. You should now have two sets of four "canvass" thin parts; one for the front and a mirrored set of four "canvass" parts for the back.


Pic 2



Pic 3

Now glue the top, flat edge of the sail to the corresponding part on the four layered sail part that you completed in the last section of this thread, and the lower, curved portion to each glue-point which corresponds to the coupling points to the sail frame (see the pic for the attach-points on the lower frame; they look like ovals). After you glue the thin, laminated piece on the thick cardboard frame, you should have a bit of space between the thin paper and the frame beneath, creating the illusion of stretched fabric over a bracket.


The easy part of this is that you are gluing the thin copy piece exactly atop of the 2D printing below, but the added laminated arm creates a space, and therefore the illusion of actual canvass over a frame. If you do this on both sides you will simply be laminating a thin piece across the 3D guide below, increasing texture and 3D impact, beyond any good printing quality.



Now you can consider cutting portions of a third set of thin, regular-paper copies to add folds in the canvass, or doubling-over portions of canvass, as actually seen on these structures. To accomplish this, you match the folded portions, doubling the bottom over, then attach the top along the upper frame. Again, the goal
here is to create the illusion that there is canvas stretched over the wooden frame, held down by ropes, sometimes creating bulges, wrinkles, and doubled over portions of canvass.


Pic 4


Pic 5


Now that you have added both texture and dimension to you kit, don't forget to touch up the edges with color to remove distracting white-space and increase the final quality to your build.

Look at those sails!


Almost ready for wind!!!
Attached Thumbnails
Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-trimming-white-space..jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-sails-page-.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-thin-paper-sail-canvass-.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-dimension-added-sail-extra-layer.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-canvass-illusion.jpg  

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Last edited by THE DC; 02-15-2018 at 09:38 PM. Reason: goofed
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  #18  
Old 02-27-2018, 11:35 PM
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Body...

The cellar and body are two separate pieces. The cellar is water-colored stone and the body is hand-drawn planks with windows and door.

The pieces are simply cut from the page and folded into two side sided shapes.

The fit for the cellar is easy and has a tab for fit, thought I found removing it and re-enforcing it from behind limits any seem.

The same is true for the body, The body also has an upper cap but it doesn't fit well. To cap off the main body, I recommend tracing out a cap and replacing the one designed.

The main body s supposed to be joined the the stone cellar base with provided tabs.
Attached Thumbnails
Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-body-roof-cap-miss-fit.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-body.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-cellar.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2018, 12:06 AM
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Exclamation Body and cellar construction >>>>

OPTIONAL!

Off Instructions work:




These steps are enhancements not suggested by the kit. With a knife I cut out the windows and doors in both the cellar and body. This is a bit tricky, as the frames to the windows are thin.


Pic 1-
body w windows cut out

Pic 2-
cellar w windows cut out

I tossed the back colored window pieces, carefully not cutting out the light blue frame pieces. I also cut out the doors at both the cellar angry and the base of the upper body, but retained the doors.

I put the doors back in the places where they were drawn, but I braced them to encourage a slight indentation where the doors fit the frames. Its a very slight detail, but I think it gives the illusion that the door is operational.

Pic 3-
cellar door bracing


Pic 4-
door re-braced


Its a small detail, hard to depict in a photo but the door indentation looks good in real life.


Pic 5-
new door fit body


Next we'll talk windows...
Attached Thumbnails
Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-cellar-w-windows-cut.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-body-w-windows-cut.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-cellar-door-bracing.jpg   Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-door-rebraced.jpg  
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Last edited by THE DC; 02-28-2018 at 12:11 AM. Reason: pics not loading
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  #20  
Old 02-28-2018, 12:13 AM
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Trying pic 5 again!!!

Here's another attempt to post Pic 5, showing the indentation effect of the door...
Attached Thumbnails
Tilting At Windmills; With or without the smock...-new-door-fit-body.jpg  
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