U-Boat Type VIIc by Kooklik/Thai Paperworks

[member_3]

Against my better judgement I am starting this build thread. The first couple posts will be from the thread in the design section that are actually more appropriate here. Progress may be slow due to other projects and commitments but I'll try to do something ata least once a week.

[member_3]

From my post in the Designers Corner forum:

I received mine a few minutes ago. This model is nothing less than magnificent! The instructions set a new standard for the paper model world. Kooklik has even included parts for the conning tower railing assembly jig! I may never actually build this but I'll "read" it like a good book for years to come. Congratulations and thank you, Kooklik, for what may be the finest paper model package ever published.

[member_3]

From my post in the Designers Corner forum:

OK, OK - I just had to print it out (remember to use the corrected pages P and Q Kooklik e-mailed you) and touch it a little. I printed the weathered version which is done with a very light touch - it looks like a ship that has been at sea a few months but doesn't yet need to be drydocked for a hull scraping and repainting. I know it has been mentioned before but this package comes with three versions - "white paper" for your personal recoloring, unweathered for that "brand new" look and, of course, the weathered version. The value received in this package is worth every penny of the price (indeed, I was prepared to pay twice that). Back to work now on non-submarine matters (Super Corsair, SSW D.III and a couple other double-secret projects I don't want Carl to find out about).

[member_3]

From my post in the Designers Corner forum:

Well, I obviously don't have pictures of something I'm too busy to build but a very close acquaintance also has this model and dropped by this evening to show me what he had done so far.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat01.jpg


All the frame parts for the bow section are on Page A and are identified A-1 through A-9. All the joining strips are on the first sheet of strips and are also identified with an A number, e.g. A-3a for the strip on bulkhead A-3. All the skins and other parts for this section are on Page M and are numbered M-1 through M-14. All parts requiring lamination are on their own pages, as are the joining strips. I am more and more impressed with this model, especially since my acquaintance was able to get quite a bit done in just a few hours. He assures me the fit is excellent. I can hardly wait to start on mine later this year <<wink, wink, nudge, nudge, say no more>> When I do, I'll start a normal build thread if appropriate.

[member_3]

Ok - we are up to date. My "acquaintance" will be bringing me progress reports and new pictures from time to time. As for me, I'm back to work on a Super Corsair alpha build (and nothing else).

[member_3]

My friend asked me to post the following:

Bow section all skinned
http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat02.jpg

A minor coloring error in the anchor housing (should be light grey in the indicated area) - Kooklik has been informed and is fixing it.
http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat03.jpg

The first bow plane installed. These bow planes could be made movable but I (I mean my friend) decided to glue them in place.
http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat04.jpg

The other bow plane has been installed and the bow section is complete.
http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat05.jpg

An interesting bit of trivia is that this is the way we build nuclear submarines today - as modules (or "rings" as they are called) with all the piping, major machinery and cable runs installed and then the rings are joined together and, presto!, you have a submarine. This method of production has even been extended to much larger ships - Northrop-Grumman Newport News (formerly Newport News Shipbuilding) builds aircraft carriers the same way.

[B-Manic]

Your progress, I mean your friend's progress is impressive. The texture is very realistic and seems to be aligning without problem. Can't wait until my CD arrives.

~ Douglas

[cjwalas]

This weathered version looks like it's going to be a real show-stopper! Does it seem like a model that would be doable for a medium level builder like myelf? I love the kit, but quite frankly, I'm intimidated by it!:eek:
Chris

[member_3]

Chris - I am certainly no more than a medium level builder myself and I consider it within my capabilities. If I mess a fiddly bit up I'll just print it again until I get it right! Looking ahead in the instructions the most challenging items seem to be the guns and the railings. Kooklik has provided jigs for the railings and clear diagrams for them and the guns so I expect I'll be able to get through it OK. I honestly believe that this one is worth having even if you never do anything but look at it. Take the leap!!!

Added with edit - WAIT A MINUTE!!! the guy that just completed that incredible MM Lysander is worried about assembling a perfectly colored, perfectly designed itsy-bitsy submarine!?!?!?!?! Give me a break! There aren't any windows and the "wings" are little-bitty things that are nearly invisible. PayPal Kooklik NOW!

[B-Manic]

Chris - I am certainly no more than a medium level builder myself and I consider it within my capabilities. If I mess a fiddly bit up I'll just print it again until I get it right! Looking ahead in the instructions the most challenging items seem to be the guns and the railings. Kooklik has provided jigs for the railings and clear diagrams for them and the guns so I expect I'll be able to get through it OK. I honestly believe that this one is worth having even if you never do anything but look at it. Take the leap!!!

Added with edit - WAIT A MINUTE!!! the guy that just completed that incredible MM Lysander is worried about assembling a perfectly colored, perfectly designed itsy-bitsy submarine!?!?!?!?! Give me a break! There aren't any windows and the "wings" are little-bitty things that are nearly invisible. PayPal Kooklik NOW!


Hey!
.
Your building it!
.
I thought it was your friend.
.
Imagine my dismay . . .
.
.
or not.

[member_3]

Pay no attention to the OldTroll behind the curtain or to the U-boat in his hands. Just take your ruby red slippers and that flea-bitten dog and move along.....

[kooklik]

Hi Oldtroll
You seem to be the most advance to build this kit. I can't wait to see her in color version. You've made me want to build another in color.
Cheers
----kooklik----
:D

[cjwalas]

Added with edit - WAIT A MINUTE!!! the guy that just completed that incredible MM Lysander is worried about assembling a perfectly colored, perfectly designed itsy-bitsy submarine!?!?!?!?! Give me a break! There aren't any windows and the "wings" are little-bitty things that are nearly invisible. PayPal Kooklik NOW!

:D:D:D:D
Yes, oh, Master. This thing you have asked of me, I have done! (Boy, do I fold easy under pressure!)
I'm looking forward to this! After admiring Kooklik's build for so long, I can't wait to see it printed out and in my grimy little hands!
Thanks for the nudge over the edge, Ron!
Chris

[member_3]

No thanks necessary - it's what we "facilitators" (aka pushers) are trained to do.

[member_3]

Note - Piece A-10 (a small horseshoe shaped piece) is not used until you get to the conning tower details, Page 8 - don't lose it (like I did).

[member_3]

An out of sequence shot of the bow section frame pieces. this is typical of the frame construction throughout - 1 mm frames, paper joining strips, card hull skins.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-Boat06.jpg

Second hull section skinned and joined to bow - length is now 13.25 inches.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-Boat07.jpg

[cjwalas]

Love the look of this one. The light weathering is just enough to make it look like it's actually been in the water. Hurry, Kooklik, send my CD!!!!!
Chris

[kooklik]

Note - Piece A-10 (a small horseshoe shaped piece) is not used until you get to the conning tower details, Page 8 - don't lose it (like I did).
--------------------------------
I'll add this notice to next rev.
Thank you
----kooklik----

[member_3]

Instructions, Page 2, upper left block - Parts labeled J-1, J-2R/L and J-3R/L should be labled L-1, L-2R/L and L-3R/L. Kooklik has been informed.

[kooklik]

Instructions, Page 2, upper left block - Parts labeled J-1, J-2R/L and J-3R/L should be labled L-1, L-2R/L and L-3R/L. Kooklik has been informed.


---------------------------------------------------
Hi Ron
Let me check tonight.
By the way your building is very impressive work. I'm closely watching every progress you posted. more more please.

BR.
----kooklik----

[member_3]

OK - things are getting a little out of hand now! My work area will no longer serve as a photo location now that the U-Boat has grown to about 22.5" in length.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/u-boat08.jpg

Closer view of the "bulges" that get added to the rear of this assembly.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/u-boat09.jpg

ATTENTION FELLOW BUILDERS OF THIS MODEL

I recommend you assemble all hull modules and the stand before joining the modules together. In other words, don't do it the way I am. This model becomes quite unwieldy about the time you add the third hull module.

I recommend that you delay installation of the bow diving planes until all hull modules are built and joined and the ship can rest on its stand. The bow (and stern planes/rudders) are very vulnerable and if you do it the way I did they are almost sure to get damaged when you have to swing the hull around for skinning.

[cjwalas]

Notes are definitely being taken here, professor! Looking fantastic!
Chris

[hemingway]

Hi Old Troll,

thanks for your good advices!
Myself I have to rebuild the nose section due to an error in hull planking ...:mad:

Your build is looking great!

Cheers
Bernhard

[member_3]

Let me restate and revise my previous advice.

1. Build hull sections 1 (without bow planes), 2, 3 and 4 but do not join the hull sections yet.

2. Build the "keel" and the stand (instructions page 4 bottom). NOTE - the stand pieces (W-4, W-5, W-6 and W-7) need to be laminated to 1mm - I have advised Kooklik to add that note.

3. Join the hull sections.

4. Add the keel to the hull.

5. At this point the hull can rest safely on the stand and will be less susceptible to damage.

6. Add the bow planes.

7. Pick up the construction at the bottom of page 2 and away we go!

With regard to skinning the hull, I first glued the upper strips ensuring they were even with the top of the bulkheads. I then wrapped the lower skins, trimming the upper edge (if necessary) to achieve a butt joint with the upper strip. The most I had to trim was about 1/32" on the second hull section. When joining the hull sections it is possible to adjust the fit by trimming/sanding the protrusions on the preceding section in order to get a nice tight join. I actually never had to do that because of the accuracy of Kooklik's design but it's there if you have to.

On to hull section four, the "keel" and the stand so I can sort of follow my own advice above...

[Don Boose]

This is really great, Ron and Kooklik.

I know I will never build this submarine, but it was wonderful to watch Kooklik develop it and now to see it take shape under Ron's hands. I intend to buy it just to be able to look and wonder at and to imagineer (and maybe to build parts of) and intend to get another one as a Christmas gift for an old buddy who is very likely to build it (or use parts of it in a multi-media model). And I will cut and paste your building tutorial to send along with the CD.

Don

[B-Manic]

OT

Your build is coming along great, very impressive.

I have had some problems with parts like those elliptical bulges in the past. I usually can't get them aligned at the top without a gap or bending. Now I glue them on after the top piece (usually a deck) is in place, if at all possible of course.

Thanks for sharing your voyage of discovery. It looks like I'm not the only one that will be using this thread as a build guide.

~ cheers Douglas

[kooklik]

Let me restate and revise my previous advice.

1. Build hull sections 1 (without bow planes), 2, 3 and 4 but do not join the hull sections yet.

2. Build the "keel" and the stand (instructions page 4 bottom). NOTE - the stand pieces (W-4, W-5, W-6 and W-7) need to be laminated to 1mm - I have advised Kooklik to add that note.

3. Join the hull sections.

4. Add the keel to the hull.

5. At this point the hull can rest safely on the stand and will be less susceptible to damage.

6. Add the bow planes.

7. Pick up the construction at the bottom of page 2 and away we go!

With regard to skinning the hull, I first glued the upper strips ensuring they were even with the top of the bulkheads. I then wrapped the lower skins, trimming the upper edge (if necessary) to achieve a butt joint with the upper strip. The most I had to trim was about 1/32" on the second hull section. When joining the hull sections it is possible to adjust the fit by trimming/sanding the protrusions on the preceding section in order to get a nice tight join. I actually never had to do that because of the accuracy of Kooklik's design but it's there if you have to.

On to hull section four, the "keel" and the stand so I can sort of follow my own advice above...


------------------------------------------
Dear Ron
Your notices will be added to the instruction.
Thanks for your worth feed backs.

BR.
----kooklik----

[Lex]

The weathered version is a spectacle!!!!! Can't wait for more!!

[member_3]

The weathering is so realistic that when I was asked about the crusty, white deposits on the hull (my sloppy glueing) I replied, "Those are barnacles. They are part of the weathering." and the questioner believed me! I'm in the the last painful stages of attaching the "keel" and will have more photos soon (no closeups though,,,not my finest hour). I just received a copy of the JSC 1:72 Type XXIII boat and was stunned at the difference in sizes of the two U-boats. That Type XXIII was tiny!

[birder]

Old troll, good job, do aircraft ever get barnacles....

[member_3]

Only seaplanes - LOL.

[member_3]

I have been suffering from builder's block the last few days...just now got back in the saddle. The hull is now just under 30" long and is gaining weight rapidly. The "keel" or maybe keelson is pretty straightforward with the exception of the center portion.

First, a couple overall shots...

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat10.jpg

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat11.jpg

And the troublesome center section (bottom of Instructions, Page 4 for those who have the model). Part T-3 contains the center part with its complex folding and a simple extension fore and aft. On my next build I think I will cut T-3 into three pieces and deal with them one at a time: the simple forward section, the complex center section and then the simple aft section. I found it frustrating to try and get the entire piece to settle in place all at one time. It may just be my gorilla fists but you may want to play with that section a bit before you commit to glueing. In the photo below parts T-4 (4 pcs) have not yet been glued in the corners of T-3.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat12.jpg

Moving on to the saddle tanks, this is the framework for the port tank (dry-fitted, not glued up) waiting for me to make up my mind on how to proceed. I am a little nervous about building this in hand and then hoping the finished tank will fit nicely to the hull side. I am considering building the tanks in place on the hull which should ensure proper alignment. Maybe I'll try one method to port and the other to starboard! :)

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat13.jpg

Minor typo on Instructions, Page 2 lower left - the parts identified as H-18R,L (the joiner pieces) are actually H-16R,L - Kooklik has been notified.

[Don Boose]

This is a fascinating thread, Ron. Das boot looks wunderbar.

Don

[cjwalas]

I agree with Don. This is really engaging. Your construction insights are going to take a lot of the worry away for me when I finally get to doing mine. Great stuff, Ron.
Chris

[papiro]

Great job ! If you build all the rest from this standard, the final "product" goes to be a "opera d´arte".
Best regards

[member_3]

It is the keel according to "Anatomy of the Ship - The Type VII U-Boat" which arrived yesterday. A quick scan of the book confirms that if it was visible on the real thing then Kooklik incorporated it into the model!

After some insight from Kooklik I have decided to use a hybrid method for the saddle tanks. I will apply glue to a couple-three frames and then hold the assembly against the hull while the glue dries. Repeating this and gluing two or three frames at a time should result in a tank that will be easier to skin but will still have the right shape when it's time to glue to the hull.

I also passed on some thoughts to Kooklik regarding the deck edges and the fact that the upper edge of the hull plating has "dished in" between the bulkheads. This would cause some difficulty in getting a nice deck to hull seam so I am using strips of 1mm card between each bulkhead at the upper edge of the hull plating. This has the dual benefit of straightening the hull plates and providing a better glue surface for the deck at the hull-deck seam.
In my next build of this model I intend to trim 1mm from the top of each bulkhead and centerline frame, laminating the deck pieces to 1mm and gluing the deck in place before applying the hull plating. In theory this should eliminate the "dishing" problem and provide a firm gluing surface for the hull plating at the deck edge. That's for another build, however - for the time being, the temporary fix will have to do. This has been a lot of verbal description; I'll try to get some photos up soon to better illustrate what I mean.

Thank you all for the kind words and support but let me assure you that my progress so far is 10% me and 90% designer. I just hope I can manage when all the little fiddly bits have to be assembled!

[member_3]

This photo shows the "dishing" problem <yellow arrows> and the strips I used to correct this <green arrows>. I need to do this for all the edges between each bulkhead pair before I put the deck on.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-Boat14.jpg

[member_3]

Well, I have made a big mistake due to not thinking things through and not reading the instructions thoroughly. The strips I was installing to straighten the top edges of the hull plating cannot be used in the area of the saddle tanks due to formers L-4R,L through L13R,L that are installed after the saddle tanks are installed. The good news is that the formers should cure any "dishing" in that area. I am still using the straightening strips forward and aft of the tanks. For the same reason, my plan of using a laminated deck described previously is not feasible because of items like the aforementioned formers that need to be installed before the deck goes on. SO - just ignore that whole post of blather I did earlier and build it the way the designer intended!

[kooklik]

Hi Ron
I have not seen your pic about mistake in Saddle Tanks fitting yet. I attached some pic those might be helpful to you.

3826
3827
3828
3829
3830
3831

BR.
----kooklik----

[member_3]

Kooklik, the problem I encountered is that the waterline does not match up at saddle tank parts Q-6R,L and Q-7R,L.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat15.jpg

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat16.jpg

[Padre]

Thanks for this build thread and your experience. When I start my build I am going to benefit and use your advice and problem solving as a guide. Thanks and you are doing a great job.

[member_3]

The saddle tank waterline problem is on parts Q-7R,L and Q-8R,L. The waterline on those parts is about 3mm lower than on the parts fore and aft of them.

Parts Page R - pieces R-6R is really R-6L and R-6L is really R-6R.

Kooklik has been informed.

[kooklik]

That's a big mistake. Thank you for post the pic. I'll revise it soon.
BR.
----kooklik----

[kooklik]

The saddle tank waterline problem is on parts Q-7R,L and Q-8R,L. The waterline on those parts is about 3mm lower than on the parts fore and aft of them.

Parts Page R - pieces R-6R is really R-6L and R-6L is really R-6R.

Kooklik has been informed.


------------------------------------------------
Dear Ron
Part Q-7R,L and Q8-R,L those their water line is lower than others. Please re-color only these 4 pieces. Other parts are OK.
And I swapped part R-6R,L already. It was missing in mirroring :p.
I'll correct and post the patch.
Thank you
---- kooklik ----

[member_3]

Using a preview of the next revision provided by Kooklik, I patched the waterline area on the left saddle tank. The color does not match because it was printed on different paper than the original Page Q. (I prefer to look at it as an area that had been damaged and repaired in the shipyard.) The right side parts should all match up and we'll be off for new adventures in building in the next day or so.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-boat17.jpg

[member_3]

OK - energized and back in a building frame of mind! Here's the starboard saddle tank in place on the hull with the joining strips glued on. Just a note - joining strip H-8aR,L is longer than it has to be and H-9aR,L was a bit short. I trimmed the excess off H-8a.)

The five arrows at the top indicate how the saddle tank skins actually slip through the free-flood slots at the upper hull/saddle tank joint and curve downward to meet the sub-deck. There are a number of false frames that attach to the hull sides, center frame, tank skin and sub-deck (pieces L-4R,L through L-13R,L) that will give the final shaping to the tank skins. Because of this, I did not glue the tank skins to the sub-deck at this point.

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-Boat18.jpg

Added with edit - Just remembered what I intended to point out - The hull joining strips must be trimmed away where each hull frame shows through the slots so the tank skins will fit through the slot. The exposed frame edges will have to be colored like the edges of the false frames mentioned above.

[Johnny]

Thats a big project Ron!!
You are doing some really good work on that monster :)
Very nice to follow this build!

[member_3]

While I have not posted in a while I have done a little bit more. My present hangup are the tubes for the shafts - I am extremely tube-rolling challenged despite Carl's excellent tutorial (I flunked out twice). Here's a shot of the last hull section nearing completion. I thought I had a couple more shots but I must have dreamed them...

http://www.oldtroll.com/images/U-Boat19.jpg

[shrike]

I tend to cheat and print any important tubes on bond paper. You can extend the rolling length if you need to for structural strength. It makes life ever so much easier.

Of course if it were an old Mały kit you could just peel the paper<G>

[birder]

That looks good! I agree with Shrike, thinner paper is so much easier. Nice work Ron!:)

[Lex]

A spectacle to watch!

[eatcrow2]

Ron...

This is a great build thread, and it's really interesting seeing the steps and corrections you make along the way. Should be a fantastic model when completed.

Cheers...

[jagolden01]

Ron,

Looking real good and seems to be moving along smoothly.
Thanks for sharing the build with everyone, I've been saving the individual pagss as PDF's for future reference - I'm waiting for my disc to arrive, though I can't get to a build 'till probably July.

What do you estimate the final length of the model will be? I'm hoping to be able to scale it to 1/32 or if too big, 1/48.

[member_3]

It should be about 37" long so a conversion to 1/32 or 1/48 is going to be pretty impressive. I promise I will be back to work on this model in the near future. I have a number of other (real world) issues that have cropped up all at once which have my attention focused away from models. Should be back at it within a week or so.

[Padre]

I am also building Koolik's great design. I had problems using wire for the railings so I just cut out the paper templates and painted them. Also reduced it by 25% so that I may have some place to put it.

[B-Manic]

I am also building Koolik's great design. I had problems using wire for the railings so I just cut out the paper templates and painted them. Also reduced it by 25% so that I may have some place to put it.


Padre - are you planning on a build thread? It would be great to see this model built in the smaller scale. ( I also have space problems ) :) It looks great btw. The rails are excellent.

[Padre]

I have already completed the hull. I get to building and forget :p(old guy) to take pictures, sorry. I truly honor those who do as they help me when I have problems. I will try to post the rest of the building here.
I also did not use all the revisions so my lines did not always line up correctly. Also probably due to my errors (and I make darn few that I admit too http://forum.zealot.com/images/smilies/357.gif). This is a well designed model and goes together well. It may look difficult but is really pretty easy (except for railings).http://forum.zealot.com/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif

[kooklik]

I am also building Koolik's great design. I had problems using wire for the railings so I just cut out the paper templates and painted them. Also reduced it by 25% so that I may have some place to put it.


Hi Padre
Can't belive you've made rails by paper. That's so nice. This must be a pure paper model.
Great job!!.
BR.
----kooklik----

[papiro]

Is big enough to be impossible to locate at home, he he... but is a very nice work !
I´waiting to see all the pieces togeter.
Saludazos

[Padre]

Added screws, planes and rudder. Deck gun and conning tower. Ship length 27.5 inches.

[papiro]

Well... still growing in ammount of work.
The detailing are superb and in your hands the results looks very good.
Congratulations and thanks for share your experience.

[Padre]

Flak guns finished and mounted.

[kooklik]

Hi Padre
Thanks for sharing the your model building here. I saw a coloring mistake on a part of screw.

4465

It's completely my mistake. I've noticed to all customers to get the updated patch via email. Or you can click the link at my signature below to get the patch.

Best Regards
----kooklik----
Your 3.7cm AA building is very nice. Make me want to build one more U-Boat in color.
:D

[cjwalas]

Kooklik,
While it's a bit of a challenge sorting out all the updates on this wonderful model, thank you for being such a conscientious designer to follow up on all the little details! If only more model designers did that!
Chris

[Padre]

Conning tower and accessories, forward hatches, side rails.

[Padre]

Done with some errors and mods.

[eatcrow2]

Outstanding model!!!!!!!

[kooklik]

Congratulation !! Padre
First completed color version which I've seen. I've not been on line for a week everything seemed went so fast. The beast in color is more realistic than my white one. Great work !!
BR.
----kooklik----

[Padre]

Thanks to all.
If you don't have this model............why not?
Can't wait for the train model to be done.

[dansls1]

Thanks to all.
If you don't have this model............why not?

Great Job Padre!

Why not? Budget concerns, but it's definitely on the want list ;)

[pauloh]

Dear sir OLDTROLL can you send me a copy ? how much ?
Thanks for this great work.

Paulo

[member_3]

Model can be purchased here - Ecardmodels.com (http://ecardmodels.com/)

[treadhead1952]

Hi Padre and Old Troll,

I have been touring about the site checking out the builds as I work on my first card model. The U Boat is looking quite grand Ron as you work your way through it. Padre, yours came out looking most excellent. It has convinced me to forgo buying a styrene one and just concentrate on getting a card model version. Of course, gotta finish the one I have started first. Looking forwards to more updates on yours as you get time to work on it Ron. I added the Ecardmodels store to my favorites for future reference.

Jay Massey
treadhead1952
Las Vegas, NV

[Papercut]

Old Troll, how far along have you came on this since your last post? I was really enjoying your in-put on the build and it seemed to switch to another build and we heard no more from you!!!!!:(

[member_3]

I got sidetracked with other matters and never finished it. Padre did a superb job of picking up my slack and producing a beautiful model. I'll get back to building another one sometime in the future.

[Papercut]

Hello Ron, I full well understand how we get side tracked and move on to the next, for me, the next, the next etc. I just want to let you know I was enjoying your build and I look forward to you re-building this war horse again. I purchased a download of Das Boot from ECard and I was just blown away by the detail and graphics of the kit. Just as you stated, the instructions are the BEST I have seen in any paper model. I remember reading some where someone asked Kooklik if he would consider a S-Boat in 1/35 scale. I place my order now for anything this fellow designs. Hope you have a great Memorial Day and thanks for your reply.:DRick

[Weasel]

Hello from Germany!

Presently I have a model of the uboat under construction (Rev. H).

Perhaps you'll follow under kartonbau.de?

In another thread of the same forum you can accompany the build of a VII C with interior details (made by "Michael").