Prudensio Alpha Romeo

[Darwin]

Seeing as how none of the rest of the half-dozen or so of you playing in this sandbox has stepped up to the plate, someone really should tackle the Zio puzzles sans instructions, so I guess it will be me. Having successfully managed my way through one of his 1:24 hotrods in the past, I have a little familiarity with the methods behind Zio's madness on these designs, so maybe there is a chance the model will make it all the way without becoming a labor-intensive spitwad. This will not be a pretty build, but maybe liberal use of touch-up paint will keep it from breaking mirrors....I figure I'm going to do well enough just figuring out where the bits go, much less make them pretty.

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When assembling the frame pieces....red goes on the top and the outsides, dark grey on the bottom and insides of the frame rails. The frame seems to be built around the rear axle/differential, so build that first. Fold and glue together the frame side rails. Like most Zio models, cut the half of the part without tabs to the part outline before folding and gluing. While they are drying, cut out the top piece of the framework and fold the tabs on the part sides upwards (valley fold). Attach one of the siderails to the frame top piece. My own thought is that the bent-up tab at the front of the frame top piece should align with the front of the frame side rail, so that the leaf-spring attachment bracket (the little oval fiddly bit) lies behind the tab. I had best my best result attaching the side rails by starting at the front of the frame, and working toward the rear. When the first frame rail is glued on, insert the rear axle assembly into the cutout on the rear leaf spring (but don't glue it yet), then glue on the second of the side rails. Carefully check and recheck that the position of the side rails respective to the forward tab on the frame top is the same on both sides, or your model will suffer from a "sprung frame" as does mine. Next, cut out, U-fold, and glue the frame crossmember that will serve as the transmission attachment. When dry, cut out and glue on the frame bottom piece. The tabs on the frame bottom look like they are intended to be wrapped around the corresponding crossmember on the upper frame piece....based on the hotrod build, this likely serves as the base for the radiator assembly. I'm not sure yet which way the tab is supposed to be positioned, so don't glue it to anything yet. When this is dry, position the rear axle assemby so the same amount pokes out on both sides of the frame, and the attachment location for the drive shaft faces to the front, and superglue the little sucker into place, keeping the frame as straight as possible while the glue cures. Now glue the front and rear leafspring parts in place, and if you haven't done so yet, glue on the pieces that hide the tabs on the inside front of the frame rails (this is the little part that hasn't been cut out yet in the above pics). To finish up the framework, cut out and assemble the front axle. I found it worked well to superglue the edges of the tabs together...this held the piece from trying to pretzl when gluing on the tops and bottoms of the axles. I found that the little gray bit that was among the white tabs on the edge of the axle are also tabs...they are the ones that attach the assembly onto the front leaf springs. When dry, glue the front axle assembly onto the front leaf springs.

This is as far as I've gotten. I'm now going to build me a jig that will hopefully keep the frame straight until enough of the drive train is in place to stabilize the structure. Also, I opened my big mouth to have a paper-modeling session for the activity portion of my wife's church's girls youth organization....finding girl-appropriate model subjects is much more of a pain than for the boys groups. I guess some of the cutesy animals from Canon and maybe the dollhouse furniture freebie from bestpapermodels....wish me luck, guys...I'm going into the lion's den tomorrow evening.

[Don Boose]

Wow! Major project and a real challenge. You are doing us a great service by providing the good images and the detail anrrative of the build. I will watch closely (although I am not inclined to try this one myself, so will have to enjoy it vicariously).

Don

[doctormax]

the scary one that was on my wish list but the lack of instructions scared the bear off. i will look on this one with interest.

[cjwalas]

I just looked at this yesterday. It looks like a beautiful model, but as has been noted, no instructions is just too intimidating!
You're a brave man to be attempting this one... as well as hosting the girl modelers!
Chris

[Art Deco]

I am so happy to see someone tackling one of Zio's fantastic 1/24 scale auto models! Zio's models in general have terrific graphics, but I think none are better than his 1/24 scale cars.

Darwin, thanks for taking on this project, I'm really looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

[Darwin]

In building the Zio hot rod, I found that the drive train was the key part of keeping the frame straight, so that is next in my build. I started with the transmission. After cutting out the parts, I was a bit mystified as to how they fit together. Since the flywheel assembly looked fairly straightforward, I started there and trusted to Zio's clues to figure out the rest.

One major pitfall here that isn't obvious from Zio's photos of the undercarriage....on the front piece of the flywheel, the white location box for attaching the engine should be at the top of the flywheel. For me, the nuclear law of averages kicked in (given a 50-50 chance, you will screw it up 95 percent of the time) and I pointed it toward the bottom of the trannie. Since that portion of the assembly is pretty well hidden by the engine after assembly, I didn't bother printing out another flywheel front to paste over the error.

Next in my sequence was assembling the bell housing and attaching it to the back of the flywheel. From there, it wasn't too difficult figuring out how to fold and locate the body of the transmission. The engine block is fairly straightforward...the trickiest part is figuring where to place the fold scribe lines for the valve covers. My pics show the sequence I used for gluing up the engine block. Next step was the timing chain cover assembly....and this completes this segment of the build. Now need to take a break and print out some kits for the girls to build tonight.

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[Don Boose]

Superb engine!

[Texman]

I'm watching this close Darwin. You have gone where I feared to tread!

[cjwalas]

Wonderful. This is impressive. Judging by the tweezers, you either have giant tweezers or the engine is fairly small for 1/24? I know nothing about cars (or much else to be honest), so forgive my ignorance here. You've done an exacting build on something with what looks like an awkward assembly. Looking forward to seeing further progress on this one. Good luck getting a few converts tonight (that's to paper modeling, I mean).:rolleyes:
Chris

[Darwin]

I think I've gained at least one convert from the session tonight. Ironically, I think it may have been one of the group leaders. She says she is going to try getting her 18 year old son interested in the architectural models.

Some more progress....most of the hang-on-the-side thingies important for making the engine run are completed. I doubled the fan belts on 1mm card....makes it look realistic. Next will be the exhaust stubs.

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Just for grins, I thought I'd show a few pics of the hot rod I built a few years ago. I'm not sure if the current Zio hot rod downloads include instructions (I think they do, but cannot say with certitude), but there are enough similarities in construction/assembly between the hot rods and his other 24th scale cars to be of help.

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[Darwin]

Chris, didn't mean to forget responding to your comment....the tweezers are large (tad over 5 inches). If you don't have at least one of these reverse-acting, curved tweezers, you should get some....they make absolutely great clamps for holding together small parts while gluing, burnishing down tabs to get good glue adhesion, etc. Plus, they work well to hold fiddly parts until they get glued down to the assembly.

[cjwalas]

You know, I've got a couple of pair of these and never even thought to use them in paper modeling. Thanks for tip!
Chris

[Zathros]

Beautiful straight and true frame Darwin! That's the beginning necessary for any fine car. I'm looking forward to seeing this develop.:)

[cdavenport]

Wow! That engine is really impressive. BTW, if you want to simulate actual springs, laminate 110# cardstock with superglue to the curve needed. Even scale size, the card will easily support the finished model.

[Darwin]

Charles, if I do another one after (I hope) finishing this proof-it-can-be-done build, I will try adding a few superdetails like built-up leaf springs. I agree with you that after building up a set of leafs using superglue, the load-bearing strength is unbelievable. A few more pics of continuing progress...the exhaust stubs were fairly easy. The grill/radiator assembly was pretty straightforward, but for the life of me I couldn't figure out the purpose of some of the tabs....so I just cut off the ones I couldn't figure out. It may come around to bite me in the heine later, but I should be able to fake it when it happens. It looks as if it is possible to make working 1:24 scale working piano hinges. The real ones I made back in school metalshop were lots easier than these are proving to be...but with a little help from superglue and not rushing things, it can be built by a guy with moderate building skills. The hinges really are functional...they work quite smoothly.

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[Zathros]

I was going to suggest building up the leave springs too. It really brings a model to life, details like that. The piano hinges came out beautiful!! I might have to build this one! There are a few models out there that could benefit from those piano hinges you made. Really nice build!

[Darwin]

A day of frustrations...the 40 inch LCD TV arrived in time for the birthday, but when the box was opened, I found the remote had been smashed during transit. Walmart says to bring it back and they will have a replacement shipped...another two weeks before being able to enjoy it. The frustration is that they can't work just with the broken remote....the entire SOB has to be shipped back. I tried working with the 'manufacturer' of the TV, but since the damage occurred during shipment, they won't stand by the warrantee, and can't just sell me a replacement remote. INSANE....no wonder America's economy is in the toilet with such stupid, stupid policies. Rant, rant.

On the building front, the hood is finished. For those thinking of attempting a build themselves...my technique was: first, shape the hood pieces to fit around the curves in the radiator assy and firewall. Then valley fold the tabs that will make up the hinges. Take a straight pin, hold it behind the first hinge tab, and bend the tab around the pin. Use thumb nail to conform the tab snugly around the pin. Holding the end of the tab closed against the hood piece, remove the pin and place a small bit of superglue to the outside of the hinge cylinder in order to harden it. When dry, use the thumb nail to press the end of the tab against the hood piece and place a small bit of superglue against the edge of the tab, letting capillary action suck the glue into the joint. Only about the last 1/64th inch of the tab end serves for the joining tab...the rest of the hinge tab makes up the cylinder. Carefully pry the thumbnail from where you cemented it to the part, and when glue is dry, reinsert the pin into the hinge cylinder. Repeat, repeat, repeat.....

Once the first hinge tab is completed, it can be used to help steady and position the pin for doing each successive tab. When all hinge tabs are formed, check for alignment of the hinge cylinders by running a length of wire into it. I used piano wire with a slightly smaller diameter than the pin for the hinge. When you can easily run the piano wire into the hinge half, remove the wire and glue in place the interior hood pieces. When dry, use lengths of piano wire to join the hinges together. The two outer hinges of the hood should have the wire cut off flush with the ends of the hinges. For the center hinge, leave the wire long enough so about 1/8 inch extends beyond each end of the hinge...this will be used for attaching the hood assembly to the radiator assy and car body. Slow work, but the finished product is worth it.

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[whulsey]

Like those hinges, have done similar with thin brass for plastic models. Guess its time to step up and try it in paper now that I've seen yours. Because you're correct in that it just adds so much to the finished look.

[Don Boose]

Beautiful work on the hinges. A very valuable tutorial!

It's most enjoyable to watch you at work.

Don

[Zathros]

A day of frustrations...the 40 inch LCD TV arrived in time for the birthday, but when the box was opened, I found the remote had been smashed during transit. Walmart says to bring it back and they will have a replacement shipped...another two weeks before being able to enjoy it. The frustration is that they can't work just with the broken remote....the entire SOB has to be shipped back. I tried working with the 'manufacturer' of the TV, but since the damage occurred during shipment, they won't stand by the warrantee, and can't just sell me a replacement remote. INSANE....no wonder America's economy is in the toilet with such stupid, stupid policies. Rant, rant.

On the building front, the hood is finished. For those thinking of attempting a build themselves...my technique was: first, shape the hood pieces to fit around the curves in the radiator assy and firewall. Then valley fold the tabs that will make up the hinges. Take a straight pin, hold it behind the first hinge tab, and bend the tab around the pin. Use thumb nail to conform the tab snugly around the pin. Holding the end of the tab closed against the hood piece, remove the pin and place a small bit of superglue to the outside of the hinge cylinder in order to harden it. When dry, use the thumb nail to press the end of the tab against the hood piece and place a small bit of superglue against the edge of the tab, letting capillary action suck the glue into the joint. Only about the last 1/64th inch of the tab end serves for the joining tab...the rest of the hinge tab makes up the cylinder. Carefully pry the thumbnail from where you cemented it to the part, and when glue is dry, reinsert the pin into the hinge cylinder. Repeat, repeat, repeat.....

Once the first hinge tab is completed, it can be used to help steady and position the pin for doing each successive tab. When all hinge tabs are formed, check for alignment of the hinge cylinders by running a length of wire into it. I used piano wire with a slightly smaller diameter than the pin for the hinge. When you can easily run the piano wire into the hinge half, remove the wire and glue in place the interior hood pieces. When dry, use lengths of piano wire to join the hinges together. The two outer hinges of the hood should have the wire cut off flush with the ends of the hinges. For the center hinge, leave the wire long enough so about 1/8 inch extends beyond each end of the hinge...this will be used for attaching the hood assembly to the radiator assy and car body. Slow work, but the finished product is worth it.

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You should make "Walmart" an offer for the damaged T.V., telling them the "Shipping and Handling" costs, and subsequent repackaging would not be worth it to them, then give them a "low ball" offer, saying you will pass on the warranty. I have done this many times and have obtained some nice stuff that way. The New TV will come in and everyone will be happy!:)


The engine hood looks great. Being able to pose that model with the engine open like that will be very nice.

[Darwin]

Zathros, after looking at the limited space for the set to fit into, I decided just to take the refund and try again for a somewhat smaller (and lots cheaper) set. This time I'm going to insist that WalMart open the containers and inspect for visible damage prior to leaving the store with it. After my experience with ship-to-store, I'm beginning to wonder if this is a new version of "bait-and-switch."

[Zathros]

Zathros, after looking at the limited space for the set to fit into, I decided just to take the refund and try again for a somewhat smaller (and lots cheaper) set. This time I'm going to insist that WalMart open the containers and inspect for visible damage prior to leaving the store with it. After my experience with ship-to-store, I'm beginning to wonder if this is a new version of "bait-and-switch."

Problem is, you never know if you are getting a return. That's why i try and buy from a manufacturer or from a company that ships from the manufacturer, or promises, "new unopened box". Then, even the manufacturer has the right to declare the item new.

You car is coming out awesome buy the way. I thought this was an update!

[Darwin]

The build still hasn't become a high-tech spitwad, but only because my personality is the "don't tell me I can't do it" type. The first pic shows some of the bumps in the road to where it is now. One of the first things discovered is that the body piece seems to be that for the touring version of the car. The tabs in front of the rear axle don't appear to be used, so I just whacked them off. The white stripes on the outside edge of the forward half of the body appear to be location marks for gluing on full fenders and running boards. I photoshopped them out. Which led to the next fluxup I made. I printed out the parts used for the build directly from the pdf file. To modify the body part, I imported the appropriate page into photoshop and saved/printed as a jpg. Surprise, surprise....the jpg is about 4 percent larger than the printed-from-pdf parts. Of course, I didn't check for this until ready to mate the body to the frame....so, back to photoshop to get everything flying in formation.

The sequence I finally had some success with for the body was to assemble the compound-curved turtledeck (being liberal with painting with superglue to stiffen it and hold it's shape), then attach the body to the turtledeck, starting at the forward edge of the turtledeck and working to the rear of the body. I then attached the rear portion of the body bottom, starting at the rear of the body and working forward. The roughly triangular inner panels for the rear of the body give you the guidance needed for folding and placing the rear bottom piece. I then attached the piece that forms the front of the turtledeck, which reminded me of the old simile involving unnatural acts performed on wildcats using a wet noodle. Location marks showing the centerlines of the parts would have been very useful...When completed, it became apparent that my assembly was a bit off. Well, I said this wasn't going to be particularly pretty. Next step was to glue on the dash board, the inner portion of the firewall/floorboard, and finally the outer portion of the firewall/floorboard. I then attached the gas/brake/clutch pedal cluster to the inside of the body tub, then attached the seat. When the assembly was dry, I then attached the little "fin" pieces to the body that go up over the top of the rear axle.

Finally, I attached the body to the frame. I stupidly assumed the step in the body (where the little slot occurs to allow the frame to penetrate through the body) should align with the end of the white location marker on the outside of the frame rails. WRONG.:mad: Doing that placed the body about 3/32 inch too far forward on the frame....to get the frame to fit, I had to rip off the radiator assembly, and relocate it forward in order to get the hood to fit on. And, for sequence of assembly, insert the end of the hood center-hinge wire into the top of the firewall, then slip the radiator assy onto the other end of the wire, and finally glue in the radiator. If the bottom edge of the hood doesn't perfectly align with the tops of the frame rails, don't worry about it...base on the model A one of my buds had back in high school. that is prototypic for clamshell type hoods. At speed, the driver of such a vehicle is left wondering if just three hold-down pins are enough to keep hood attached to car.

That's all for now...as advertised, it ain't pretty, but hopefully I'm locating the rocks for the rest of you (both of you) to skip across when you try the build.:rolleyes:

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[Zathros]

Wow, sounds like one might want to just build the body, then channel it and mount it to the frame. Welding is right out because it is paper, but I probably would have tried it, based on what you went through.

[cjwalas]

"...hopefully I'm locating the rocks for the rest of you (both of you) to skip across when you try the build."

As if we would try it after seeing what you're going through!:eek:
Seeing the size of this model against your keyboard makes me appreciate those hinges even more.

Here's hoping you're through the worst of it and the rest is pure enjoyment.
Chris

[Darwin]

I finally figured out how the front fender attaches...though the nuke law of averages struck again. Initially, I thought the fender I was working with was the left front fender. After initial attachment to the car, something didn't look quite right as to how it aligned with the front axle. I pried it off and glued onto the right side of the car...looks much, much better. However, it now means the attachment location mark on the fender points away from the frame, not toward it....and I'm not going to undo what has been done yet again. I think I will print the outer face of the fender attachment on bond paper and paste it over the location mark to hide yet another mistook.

And, at this point, I'm tempted to do like my partial differential equations instructor used to do in the middle of an example (usually when he became so lost in his solution that he couldn't figure out how to go from there), and just say "now, it is intuitively obvious that the answer is....." and post a few pics of the completed model. Feedback has been limited to just a couple of our thousands of forum members, so I find myself questioning whether what I've been doing with this build thread is worth the bandwidth it is taking up.

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[Zathros]

That's a hard one, but the model is looking pretty good. Just go with the easiest route and bang it out. The model really looks nice. It probably really needs to be gone through with some modern software to make things line up, but it has a nice feel to it, and you did such a great job on the rear end of the car and the engine cover.

[The Orange]

I say push on and keep posting updates rather than just the completed model pictures!

Your build is fantastic and the engineering you've put into work is very much worth the effort and heck, looks great!

There are what seems to be a lot of compound curves running across this automobile, and it seems you have definitely mastered and tamed them.

I'm not sure what my favorite part of this build is; perhaps the engine, or the hinges, or maybe... oh what the heck, I love it all!

Please keep posting updates!

[malachite]

Dawin - Don't give up. I have been following this thread but did not feel the need to comment as others had expressed the same views as mine. Having attemped some of Zio's aircraft in the past with most of them consigned to the bin I sympathise with your valiant work thus far. In fact as soon as I can put my intensive search for a new job behind me I will be using your work to aid me through a build of this model.
Keep going chum.

[rmks2000]

Darwin

Please continue. Don't take the lack of responses as a reason to stop. I've been relatively silent on this forum of late, but would like to see the final result. I myself tend to move on to the next build without having finished the previous, but I've got two (non-Zio) car builds that I'm determined to finish. One may be a build thread so that I can totally humiliate myself ;>)

[rickstef]

I am using this build as a primer for me when I try to build one of the Aston Martins he has available.

[whulsey]

I sort of doing what Rickstef is since I have one of the Astons downloaded. Excellent job on that turtledeck even if it did fight you. That was about the point I stalled on the Bugatti T35 I was trying.

[Art Deco]

I'm enjoying your posts documenting your efforts with this fascinating model! Hope you will continue onward - I want to see this model finished with that nicely hinged hood open! :)

[birder]

I like it Darwin and downloaded it when first heard of this car, these are unique models and won't ever be identical but still better than Canon's Jag XKE, and more detailed...:cool:

[Darwin]

Thanks for the encouragement...so here are a few more pics of the progress. I wound up cutting off the front fenders and reversing their location on the car...I had it right to begin with, apparently just didn't have the fender positioned right the first attempt. The rear fenders are pretty straightforward. I bend the support struts away from the body a bit in order to position the fenders so they look right with respect to the end of the rear axle. The body is pretty well in the bag now...on with the fiddly bits, while I ponder whether to do the "easy" or "advanced" version of the wheels.

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[rmks2000]

It really looks great with the hood open.

[Darwin]

Another piece of the build puzzle solved....maybe not as Zio intended it, but there are no pieces left over and it looks ok. Couldn't wait until the other wheels get built (it took the better part of two hours to get the first one done) to see how it will look on the car. How cool is that? I think I will find some laurels somewhere and rest on them for the rest of the day...laurels don't have thorns, do they?

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Bye the way, I figured the red conic part goes on the back of the wheel. I trimmed off the tip of the cone in order to give a flat surface for gluing the wheels to the axles.

[Toddlea]

Outstanding build so far. Wheels look great!

[Zathros]

I don't think this model could be built any better and I also think it has come out way way better thank you think. It is really cool looking, and has that "other era" look to it. Very cool indeed!

[B-Manic]

That is pretty cool. Paper spokes on wheels that size, no wonder it took two hours.

[Darwin]

The journey is complete....stick a fork in it, it's done. Now, upon arrival at another fork in the lane, do I choose the easy path or the unmapped longcut that is replete with pitfalls and uncertainties?:confused:

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[doctormax]

It looks good as for the unmapped longcuts there are many when it comes to zio's models right now i am trying to figure out one kit but not posting it yet as it could just end up been thrown in the green bin taking pictures as i go along do but not posting

[whulsey]

Great job there, gives me a level to shoot for when I get the nerve to try one.

[Art Deco]

Sure looks good with that hinged hood open! Thanks for all the photos!

[Don Boose]

This is terrific! I've been away for a couple of weeks and have a lot of catching up to do. I look forward to slowly going through all the build photos and description that I missed. Your build is also intimidating (in the sense of setting a very high standard). I just finished a very lumpy and mishapen (and very simple) ~1/87 Rolls Royce that pales to sloppy insignificance next to this complex and beautifully executed large scale mode.

Don

[rmks2000]

This really came out great. Your perseverance is much appreciated.

[rockpaperscissor]

Congratulations on completing this difficult build. I think it looks very nice. I admire your persistence. I would probably not have finished it.

[Dabeer]

finding girl-appropriate model subjects is much more of a pain than for the boys groups. I guess some of the cutesy animals from Canon and maybe the dollhouse furniture freebie from bestpapermodels....wish me luck, guys...I'm going into the lion's den tomorrow evening.

Maybe consider Uhu02's Tinkerbell? Or would that be too advanced...

Edit: I see I've missed the "girls' night" anyway... hope it went well. Your build looks amazing, by the way... thanks for documenting your process!

[Darwin]

Prudenzio gems deserve nice settings. Here are the final set of pics for the Alpha. I hope the setting doesn't overpower the gem....how do you like the redneck patio furnature? What is really needed now is a rusted-out '49 Nash sedan in the background.

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[NStarkel]

VERY nice job! it looks great!

[Vermin_King]

Is that Mauther's old station?

[Darwin]

Yes, it's Mauther's old station. I see Airdave has thrown down the gauntlet. Now, should I take it up? I feel a kitbash coming up, and I still haven't exhausted my ideas on Zio's stuff.

[Texman]

....how do you like the redneck patio furnature?


Nice work! Except, I think I'm a little offended. But only because their
stuff is better than mine!

[BobGurkin]

Darwin, I know you are a very good builder. After watching you struggle thru this build and the results. If someone as good as you ends up with what you have I know darn good and well there is no room in here for me. Thanks for showing this build in its best possible light.

[whulsey]

Glad to revisit this thread, don't think I actually saw the dio set up. Just can imagine the pump jockey going 'what kind of furrin' car is that thing?'

[Darwin]

Whulsey, at least he didn't have to ask "where is the gas tank fill spout?" Which brought to mind another story from my misspent youth. One of my roommates and I jointly owned a 1954 Jag XK-120. That particular beast had a common oil sump for the engine and tranny, which had about a 12-quart capacity...desperately needed, as at the best of times, it got about 100 miles a quart. The low mark on the dipstick was for a full gallon of oil. One weekend we took a roadtrip to Los Angeles to visit with his folks, about 500 miles roundtrip. On gassing up when we got back to school, the pump jockey (dates me...there was no such thing as self-service then, other than five-finger-discount) told us we were a bit more than a quart low, so my roomie said to go ahead and add oil. Upon opening the fifth quart of oil, the attentant was down on hands and knees looking for a pool of oil and for where the tv-camera was hidden.

[cbg]

My first observation has to be what a nice build job! Who doesn't love the Alfa of (almost) any vintage?

@Darwin,
So you had an xk-120? My dad had a '49 of same model...I'm guessing he got rid of it for the same reasons you mentioned. His next car was a Triumph TR-3, I think. . .it did not last long either.

What's the deal with English cars?
cbg

[gwssms]

What is really needed now is a rusted-out '49 Nash sedan in the background.


How about a weathered version of one of Cami's Chevys or the new Xmas truck? :cool:

[Darwin]

How about a weathered version of one of Cami's Chevys or the new Xmas truck? :cool:

Nope. Gotta be a 49 Nash bathtub sedan...the one with the big old straight 8. That's the only thing that would make the diorama authentic for the 50s era. Although a Henry J would be an acceptable substitute.;)