USS ALEXANDRIA Beta Build

[Hudsonduster]

Well, here goes. Corey suggests I put up a sequence as I build, and in some ways that's a good idea: while I'm just returned to this hobby after a long hiatus and may be reinventing the wheel in every pic I post, there may be something in here that someone might pick up on. Sounds right to me.

I laid down the "Eggcrate" on the base outline, one layer of 110# stock with the keel laminated up of two. This first shot shows that frame with sides fit & glued.

You see this work posed on my ohhh-sooo-precise granite "surface plate," which I'll constantly work on or glue-up to in order to keep things as flat to a datum as I can keep; in this instance, so that my waterline model will sit flat against its "waterline" display base without any gaps, but also so that I can more-or-less trust that I'm not incurring any error in my build that will carry up to the next level in the stackup. You will have errors in your work, but if you know about them you can use that knowledge when you make the next element, and so on. It's what engineers call "significant numbers," the tolerances-as-related to the next assembly. We oughta do more like that.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX01hull.jpg

Now, this is a teeny model! What you see here is barely four inches long. But, the keel and crossbars frame up a subtle sheer, and accurate cutting from the start paid off. What I didn't do was to chop out the little interlocks for the eggcrate--I just butted one side in and tacked, then clipped the side and di the same on the other. It's sloppy where it won't count, but at the end it'll get trimmed down to provide a no-gap base for the deck (you see a little mismatch in the keel/bow, for instance).

Beta-testing comment: all the geometry up to this point falls together nicely, including the unfolded sides fitting up well within my cutting tolerances.

The decks are made up of two pieces laminated together. An easy way to make things line up is, push "index" pinholes into both outlines at some handy spot--I lined up on the apparent cris-cross interstices of the deck outlines, but that's a comparatively big space as it turned out--

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX02aBDlam.jpg

--And glue back-to-back, then cut out the outline and it should match up--

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX02cBDlam.jpg

--um...better than that.

What's wrong? the outlines as it prints out (no, as my second try proved), or my pinholes? (Sorta-yes.) Well, this is the great thing about downloadable models, if you goof up you can print out another! Soooo, back to pinning & gluing & cutting, but with just the slightest bias towards the mismatch I saw in my first try--

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX03boilerdeck.jpg

--And it's better the second. A little burnish along the cut edge with the barrel of the knife, a touch of light brown Sharpie on the outline, shape and glue down.

I tried to get an edge-on shot to show the marvelous-subtle sheer that Corey has engineered into this model, but the workpiece is too small for my camera to autofocus on at this point. There'll be pics later.

Next up, the cabin and hurricane deck. I am mulling over "kitbashing" the cabin sides to follow the deck sheer up to the next leve, or not--the difference amounts to just slightly more than the thickness of my #11 blade. Stay tuned.

'Duster

[ct ertz]

Wow, a great start and a great step by step. I like the pin hole idea.
CT

[Hudsonduster]

Up on the boiler deck now, beginning the jigsaw puzzle after the assembly diagrams ran out (don't tell me! don't tell me!).

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX04acabin.jpg

Here's the central structure around the paddleboxes, built as a unit on which I'll hang the fore & aft cabin elements. I omitted the closing tabs on those, since it would create a double-fold condition that would show up huge in this teeny model. The center section is pretty flimsy at this point--

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX04bcabin.jpg

--so I laid in an array of tabs to register the cabin sides at glue-up. This makes folding & final fitting much easier as well, since the workpiece is held kinda in place while you look at what needs tweaking.

Also notice, the tabs are set back just a hair from the join line-plus-card thickness, to allow you to "float" them up to fit at gluing. In the "loose" position, the tabs provide just enough support to allow you to move, shift, pull for those critical few seconds you need to get things perfect.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX04ccabin.jpg

And once it's all in place, some fillets along the unsupported edges just to make sure.

It's been nearly a decade since my last card model (DN's wonderful OSLABYA) and in my fuzzy memory I think I recall using Tacky for most of that. Here, I grabbed what was handy: Pacer 560, a canopy cement for model airplanes. A little thinner in consistency but it dries clear.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX04dcabin.jpg

Doin' good so far, how's bayou? (sorry, couldn't resist.)

This close-up shows a lucky minimum of hairiness along the deck cuts. Any worse and I'd burnish with a wax pencil. I still might once it comes down to the finish. But all the joints up to now look pretty close, the exception being the gap in the skeg/rudder at the stern; it'll be better when I mount the model on its "water."

More later. Sorely tempted to do up some handrails. I could make some standard 1/250 jig, I s'pose...

[ct ertz]

Wow, moving right along. Not bad after a ten year break. I love the back drop for that last photo!

Hand rails are clearly shown in the drawings of the original boat. On a larger model, like the Price, I will be adding printed railing options (like in my Champion model) for those who lack the ability to do the thread thing! Like me.

On this little guy I figured printed railings would be over powering. If you can do wire or thread go for it!

Corey

[jmr248]

I am really looking forward to seeing the pilot house now that we have a visual on the overall size of the vessell. As was said early, here, paint a target on me.
Great looking work.
Joe

[Hudsonduster]

Starting to see mussy spots and hurry-marks, a sure sign that I'm finished for the day, but nothing I can't wax down and touch up tomorrow.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX06ahd.jpg

There're two elements on the top deck (nothing this small can bear the name "Texas") that I read as skylights/vents. Rather than build the boxy structure that Corey lays out, I just used the hatch portion and stood it proud of the deck with a layer of Bristol. You see the light gray outline still on the deck under this piece, which I think gives enough illusion of glazing.

But--

I am really looking forward to seeing the pilot house now that we have a visual on the overall size of the vessel.

Ohh Gawd, you just had to say that precisely as I was leaving, right? O-kay...

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX05aph.jpg

I sorta intuited that the pointy-points in the layout of this piece would build up more conical than the representative painting, so I started my first pie slices midway up the wedges and cut 'em across as shown. I did all of this on one side of the wedge, out of laziness and a clear assessment of my lack of skill at getting both sides symmetrical anyway.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX05bph.jpg

After that first cut, the next was to cut down inside the end of the joint to allow for some relief in folding, then came scoring the backside for the octagonal bend...

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX05cph.jpg

...followed by pre-curling the top panels to form the cupola...

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX05dph.jpg

...and fold & work progressively down to close to the final shape. See, this is where I benefit from the experience I got making up all those Card Sowbugs in Biology class.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX05eph.jpg

Done for now. After joining the barrel with a lap patch, I worked the cupola sections more-or-less into shape over a rounded dowel and then rubbed the inside with a gluey Q-Tip, & held the outside 'til set.

A ball knocked out of a slotcar bearing crowns the cupola, and a bit of thread runs 'round the sill as beading; after letting the thing set and cure overnight, I'll wax the thread down to make it a little more uniform, but it's still wicked small and most of this only shows under magnification.

Now can I go for a walk?

'D

[ct ertz]

Yes Sir, you earned it! Wow that's awesome. I am adding that cupola proses to the instructions, including the ball and thread, and the shaping. Good stuff.

Here is another page of instructions though you seem to be figuring everything out.

Great build!
CT

[Hudsonduster]

It was raining.

Ah, a good idea to do the double-glazings! too late, and I've got insane enough already. I will make individual buckets in the paddlewheels, though.

What we really need is a few little guys about .26" high to cut out & place around in poses like in the painting, where they all look like they've been sitting on something too narrow for too long. Yup, some crew figures'd really do it for me. Just don't ask me to figure out how to laminate 'em front-to-back.

Might try to finish off the boiler and stack today, & then mull over the details at leisure tonight.

'D

[ct ertz]

Here is the next instruction page, complete with the suggestion of improving the cupola and the cut down skylight boxes.

CT

[Hudsonduster]

Gee, I wish I'd known all that when I built it.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX07mainassy.jpg

Damn all, don't that look nice? Yah, I like the backdrop too.

And I particularly like the beautiful sheer Corey has drawn into the piece: establishing the curve of the boiler deck, he tapers the walls of the three-piece great cabin but subtly-less, so that you get the hint of that sheer carrying up to the hurricane deck and on. Best application of "Less Is More" I've seen in some time, and this heavyhanded tyro stands humbled by its elegance.

This is the end of the "Test" portion of the build, all the geometry fell together like someone knew what he was doing. As small as, as fussy as, there were no surprises nor glitches up to here; just straightforward, methodical, contemplative dumb fun like a hobby should be.

Now comes all the REAL dumb fun. The guns. The rigging. The fiddly bits.

Tomorrow.

'D

[Hudsonduster]

Well, the insanely small guns are probably doable. Maybe not pleasurable, but doable. Sort of.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX07cvanity.jpg

Proper punches might give something like a field-carriage wheel in this scale, in paper; I finally gave up and printed a set out on some clear plastic. All else is 110# card, soaked with CyA. For once, the camera is unkind: the excess flash around those wheels jumps right off the photo, until you consider the wheel is .180" in diameter...once the rest of the deck is all fussied-up, the eye will just blur over it.

Gonna take my time with the rest of the details, now that I've reassured myself I'm up to the task--I may set some of the small bits up a little differently than the painting showed, and I want to do my homework first.

'D

[ct ertz]

Wow, it's all good but that boat howitzer on a field carriage came out great. Until people see it printed out on their paper I do knot know if they will fully appreciate the smallness of these parts! This looks great! I can hardly wait to see more.
CT

[Joe711]

Nice work!
The wheel is made that (gun)?

Sincerely, Joe
Sorry, google translator

[Hudsonduster]

Thank you, Joe, your skill inspires me.
The wheel is painted on a disc of plastic.
'D

[Zathros]

I like this, I like this a lot!! No more Hiatus for you. :)

[Hudsonduster]

Yah, well, it was gettin' cold out there in Hiatusport, and the ferries weren't running regular anyway.

Working down to this size requires better tools than I possess at the moment; tweezers, and press-clamp (reverse) tweezers in ultra-small sizes, most needed. I may make some: find some small stainless wire and bend tiny spring clamps and fixtures.
That'll wait 'til next week when I'm back at work. This week, remembering the skills (and particularly the waiting-skills) I've forgotten.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEX07dvanity.jpg

Here's the 24# Dahlgren, without the smallest bits to be added at final.
The picture here is enlarged enough that you begin to see the raggedness in the little pieces, and at that it is roughly twice the size you would be looking at it with your naked eye; set the model on the shelf and the small guns just look like guns, so I'm pretty satisfied. I'll still carry lessons forward from here, though.
Next time I do this, for instance, I'll wet-form the breech dome (breech? it's a muzzleloader, there's a back, not a breech!) and paint it...but tonight I lack the paints, and the watercolor pencils, and and and...
...I need to re-tool.
Hiatusport is sadly lacking in good hobby supply shops.

Setting this gun out on deck, I am even more suspicious of the mast and davit blocking its forward shot. I've mentioned to Corey, I believe the painting this model's derived from is a "dockside" portrait, done up on the spot from a quick sketch and then sold to locals and sometimes the boat's sailors (although they'd be more critical of the inaccurate details)...well, there's gear shown in the painting that makes little sense otherwise, such as that davit.
I declare I have no knowledge of the origin of the painting and shouldn't make such a broad statement, but there's enough that doesn't make perfect sense that I'm gonna present my own take on the boat's appointments from here on, just for arguments' sake. (Hey, jmr248: if the paint's not dry on that target yet, can I borrow some of it?)

'Duster

[Hudsonduster]

I've been thinking about what it is I'm presenting in this build, aside from proving-out the .pdf. Maybe a little clarifying's in order.

Online hobby blogs have a pretty consistent demographic: ~20% regular posters, mostly experienced craftsmen within that; another 20% enthusiasts posting less-regularly; about 12% interested newbies doing the necessary homework in the craft and working up their skills and confidence; and the other half, lurkers of all types.

As a lifelong craftsman and, to be frank, a paper noob, I'm mostly doing a journal of the "12%" as written by one of their number--with the understanding that this 12% is constantly moving up into the next level and being replenished at the other end, and that the information these guys're looking for needs to be re-presented every six months or so, to handle that turnover.

I mean, most of you guys who've done some models know how to approach & achieve a clean joint; it's the guy who--as I saw elsewhere the other day--writes, "Why don't you include tabs on the pieces?" that needs some empowerment. With that in mind, I'm putting out the procedures I use as they occur to me, hopefully to catch the eye of the one or two guys that will need it at that moment.

Likewise, if there's something that needs addressing or re-addressing, please chime in.

That's my plan, anyway.
'Duster

[Don Boose]

Excellent stuff and a pleasure to read and view. I always enjoy detailed building reports, including what may seem to be elementary information.

Not only is this very valuable for the 12 percent, but is also useful for me as a sort of 21 percenter (fairly regular, if intermittent, poster; but not an experienced artisan). I also suspect that a lot of the experienced folks just enjoy reading about how some other person approaches a build.

Don

[Hudsonduster]

"21%"--better than my "Occupy Wall Street" percentile by a long shot, and if we're candid it's prob'ly the reason we spend a lot more time HERE!!

[Hudsonduster]

Okay, I haven't even got up on deck yet with the really fiddly bits, and Corey sends me an Email: "You want another micro-build, Dust? Go ahead, it's small, how tough can that be, HehHehHehHeh..." Yah, I can just see him hitting "send" & going, "Hey, Tera honey, y'oughta see what I"m getting 'Duster to do--Lordy, the man is SUCH an easy mark..."

All true.

HERE (http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ct-ertzs-projects/17200-river-flat-boat.html) is the original discussion on the craft (1/96?? Pffffttt!). I'm wanting to do two or three of this and a couple-four other divers watercraft, heading toward a diorama setting evoking (not replicating, not enough data) some morning wharfside off Vicksburg or whatever and featuring a sampling of Confederate warcraft.

That's the plan, anyway.

'D

[jimkrauzlis]

Really a nice build thread with tons of great tips and advice for anyone who might build this superb little model...Corey is really quite talented, eh? We are very lucky he treats us to his wonderful creations...and lucky for folks like you to show us how great these models come out. I love the way the wheels on the gun came out using the clear plastic, really outstanding!

Very much looking forward to seeing the fiddly bits added when you have the time!

Wishing all of you a very healthy and peaceful New Year!!:)

Cheers!
Jim

[Hudsonduster]

Jim, Corey and I have been sidebarring about a buncha projects, and much of what transpires will never end up on the 'Blog--it's the geeky deep-immersion stuff that will INFORM the models and the builds, but can never be truly enunciated publicly.

--You know--"HOBBY stuff!" It's what we tell our wives, instead of trying to actually explain. WE, and they, like that. "...That's nice, dear."

Yah, Corey has a big, roomy mind for this stuff, and truly loves the subjects he works with. We are blessed. And I'm having a ball.

'D

[ct ertz]

You get that "...that's nice. dear." from your wife too?
Well I am glad y'all like these models. I have a lot more coming. Both ironclads and wooden gunboats, and a few oddies too. And I still have some Euro-ironclads working in the back of my mind as well. That stern on the Warrior is a hang up though!

I would like a couple of good shots of this ship (maybe with the back drop!) for ecards.

Thanks guys,
Corey

[Hudsonduster]

Mos' humble thanks. Hi-Def Vanity Shot will come in time. --'D

[Hudsonduster]

First update of the New Year, and this bump is a deliberate kick in my nethers as well...been preoccupied with Real Stuff and am trying to get back to the GDF* in Life.

I'm at the point of doing the little deck appointments &c. &c., puzzling out what I want to show. The rigging is problematic, because of the small scale--I am honestly looking for stuff I can use to simulate the guys to the smokestack, the handrails, all those bits.

Best I can think of so far is wire, and I can get tinned copper--tinned, so I can quickly solder handrails & stanchions up in a jig--as small as .003" which works out to 3/4" diameter in 1/250 scale. An assortment of small wires should suffice for all but the actual rigging--a flag halyard would be something like .0007" and I'm just, well, not.

I have not yet worked out a sensibility for this small a model, a sense of how much the eye will see at this scale...precisely because I haven't yet built anything in this scale. I suppose this one's my learning curve, but it's made more important since I've promised a Vanity Shot to CT for his catalog!

We'll all see how it turned out, I guess.

'Duster

*GDF=Geeky Dumb Fun, for you non-Acronym speakers in the audience

[jimkrauzlis]

Hey, 'Duster!

Looking forward to seeing the latest updated photos!

I have used a combination of materials of rigging in the smaller scales, one being fly tying silk, which is available in many different thicknesses and colors, as well as floral wire and in some instances nicad wire, which is the thinnest and strong wire I have come across, but that strength sometimes makes it difficult to work with...it can slice through your skin too darn easy if you are not careful.

Coating the threads with glue, sometimes PVA sometimes CA, helps to give the threads a bit of stiffness that makes it easier to work with in some rigging applications.

Can't wait to see your progress!

Cheers!
Jim

[Hudsonduster]

About time I got back to this--a friend of mine was fond of reminding folks: "It's a Hobby, not a Job!"--and indeed, I've had a lot going on recently, my Job being just part of it. (and for that matter, Job could've given me some patience pointers in all this...)

So, last night I started "training" myself for the really small stuff, and figured I'd start by tackling the handrails. Since I'm planning on doing a good bit of work in 1/250, it makes sense to build me some dedicated tooling for repeat work such as these and companionway ladders &c.

Once again, I risk reinventing the wheel with detailed sequences like this. If there's already a "Rail" thread that I should hijack, please tell! Until then--

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/Rail03.jpg

I started by working up a reasonable proportion for a handrail. Without going too geeky into it, I figure about 40" high with 54" or better between stanchions. So I need a jig to lay up the railswith those numbers. As a tool & die maker, I suppose I could pop into the shop and work up something perfectly stellar, but (remember, Hobby-not-Job!) it's more fun to do it at my desk while listening to Dr. John. Sooo...

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/Rail04.jpg

Two strips of brass (all you SLOT RACERS out there in PaperLand will follow right along here!) get clamped together, and I crimped little Vees into the edges on a regular spacing corresponding to the distance between stanchions. I did this with a cheep pair of electrician's wire strippers.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/Rail05.jpg

Worked great, giving me even marks on both edges of the strip and they're all lined up well enough to make two runs of rail once I get the method down.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/Rail06.jpg

Here, I've soldered a strip to hold the two sides apart and provide working room within. In later shots, you'll see the wire "handle" I learned I would need as I wound the wire to the bottom end of the jig--just a wire rod about the size of my hand.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/Rail07.jpg

Here's the winding going on. I'm working with #38 AWG tinned copper buss-bar wire, ~.005" diameter. Well--knowing what I know now, I wouldn't start out with anything so tiny and fussy again. But, having this first run under my belt, I will probably get REAL GOOD at doing it in the future. Informed choice.

Anyway, you're seeing three winds of the wire at each station to make thicker stanchions. Then I wove the rail along the length, over/under each stanchion to allow the railing's tension to help hold it in place (see below for what I'd do differently here). Then I dripped acid flux on the whole thing and hit each stanchion with the iron with just a teeny wet of solder on it--this is why I used pre-tinned wire, makes a little easier job.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/Rail08.jpg

Here you see the beginning of cutting-loose, with fine edge-nippers. It's best to cut flush to the top railing in this operation, while everything's being held taut in the jig...and I just now figured out, because of that, it may be impossible to build another rail on the underside of the thing. How would that one get held taut? There may be a way. I'll see, next time.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/Rail09.jpg

And here's the whole thing, loose. See the places where the stanchion didn't wick up to the rail, and we got a gap. So much for weaving...next time, I'll lay the rails right on top and gently press down on each station as I touch the iron to it. Might go better.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/Rail10.jpg

After cutting the stand-up part of the wires off, I sliced the stanchion height off neatly with a straightedge razor. The small wire cuts easily and neat as you please on a cutting mat.

So, you see enough long-enough pieces here, after the gappy mistakes, to make up my scant railings on the ALEX. As you see, I've added a middle rail as well that doesn't appear on the painting, because I frankly need the structure. Maybe nobody'll notice.

Yah, I'll do this again. I've already got some ideas about how to make the railing spacing easier, like making a little wire guide-comb for each end of this jig to help line everything up. If it's just lying on top of the array of stanchions, I can tension these easily.

Ready to start rigging the model now. Stay tuned.

'Duster

[ct ertz]

Awesome!!! That there is a whole lotta work! It turned out great!
CT

[jimkrauzlis]

Way cool, 'Duster!

Not sure if there is an actual thread out there on making rails, but there might be. I have used thread on a jig which I then use diluted acrylic paint and sometimes CA glue to attach the thread railings to the thread stanchions, and the acrylic paint/CA glue stiffen up the weave fairly well, sufficient for use on paper models. I'm sure you can see this technique used by others as well in the ship build threads. There is also laser cut and photo etched railings available commercially in 1/250 scale as well as 1/400 scale, as far as I have seen.

My dear friend Barry who passed away recently used wires soldered railings on his early builds, as well as for some masting structures...you might want to check out his threads to see his technique, but this is the first time I saw someone use a jig for making soldered railings. Came out great, mate!

Thanks for sharing your techniques with us!

Cheers!
Jim

[Hudsonduster]

Well, photoetching's just cheating, right? Some years back I got involved in a real hottied-up model of the Hall Brothers' fisheries steamer W.H. BANCROFT, and went to great lengths to have beautiful brass P/E work for the wheels and framework. --Didn't feel right. Great for plastic models, but here's we're making, not assembling...

In this and another thread (also featuring one of Corey's models), there's talk of using silk thread for this stuff. Yah, done that too, but I had the wire right there and didn't have to wait for it--and in the ridiculous sizes I'm trying for, we're getting down to the limits of what any material will do. Having had to make up a whole new toolbox for rigging at one point in my misspent youth, I know I don'e wanna try again. Once again, informed choice--and mine alone.

'D

EDIT: Forgot to add this--it may have gone a lot easier if I HAD had thread! Or maybe I'll learn how to do this better. Stay tuned.

[jimkrauzlis]

Speaking of using thread, I did that on most of my builds, but you might check out my build thread on blockade runner TEASER designed by Magnus Morck which I built in 1/600 scale. I used a jig for the shrouds as well as for making up the railing I used on that build:
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/2933-blockade-runner-teaser-magnus-moerck-1-600-scale-5.html

I could never get the hang of using wire, particularly at the smaller scale, and have just become quite comfortable using the silk thread technique. It's a bit more work but I've even used this technique to make handrails for the gangways; I think the TEASER shows this too, as I recall.

Looking forward to seeing more on this build, really looking great!

Cheers!
Jim

[Hudsonduster]

...My wife just came home from her painting studio, glanced over my shoulder as I shot this, and remarked kinda detached-like: "The house is in chaos, the cats are starving, and dinner is not in the pot--for this?"

Uhh, yah. I wanted to finish, see, and--

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEXPortrait172p.jpg

This is as close as the camera will get without showing any more mussy bits. As it is, The Learning Experience to take away includes such items as:
> Always make masts a little smaller in diameter than they really are.
> Never try to make teeny bits "freehand"--build block & tackle on a large sheet, taped down, then cut away when all's glued and dry.
> Always secure your workpiece. Unless you have three hands.
> Never try to finish on a schedule. Never. Especially on housecleaning day.

I departed from the painting and from Corey's rendition in some places.

I didn't like the idea of an anchor davit and jackstaff on the bow, I'd want that clear to freely train the boat's main persuader. I put a bollard up there instead. A kedge anchor no larger than two or three men could wrestle onboard would suffice, for this size of vessel, so we can simplify things.

Likewise the boat davits 'midships from the hurricane deck: they'd drop a boat right onto the guard! I'd tow a wherry from the stern and leave it at that.

I also built a solid (awful solid!) loading gaff in back, instead of the single shear from the painting: the tackle to that boom would foul on the flagstaff and no sailor would set up anything like that. --This application is open to argument as well...please feel free!

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa29/hudsonduster/ALEXANDRIA/ALEXPortrait272p.jpg

I should add some more--I should tear out the bad stuff and do it again--I should I should--but I've gone as far as, and I want to begin my next, better, one...

So we'll see this one off now, as she goes poking through the Great Dismal Swamp in search of more bedamned Secesh brigands.

'Duster

[Joe711]

Fine work!
The handrail thrilling, very realistic.
The photos? James River, feeling?

All the best, Joe

[Hudsonduster]

Thanks, Joe--the photo's from I-dunno-where, I pulled a generic "swamp" pic off the 'Net for a backdrop a while ago and it seemed like it'd work here! It does have that steamy look, right?

Currently reading Capital Navy (http://www.amazon.com/CAPITAL-NAVY-Ships-Operations-Squadron/dp/1932714154/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1326665375&sr=1-1) by John M. Coski, a great study of the James River Squadron in the defense of Richmond. Well worth it.

'D

[jimkrauzlis]

What a great job on that railing, it came out really well, as did the other fiddly bits....a very entertaining and fun build thread!

Thanks for sharing the venture with us, it was alot of fun and the end result very pleasing to see!

Super job!

Cheers!
Jim

[ct ertz]

Awesome!!! This is what paper models are all about! Great job.
CT

[Don Boose]

Great model. Superb presentation. Really captures the atmosphere of Civil War riverine operations. I can see Alexandria steaming up the Yazoo or the Tallahatchie.

Don

[Hudsonduster]

Thanks, I had a ball doing it, posing it, limbering-up old muscles and remembering old skills.

This weekend, I called up Corey's "Flatboat" and printed out a couple cardsful, then went into P'shop and "shortened" the pertinent parts a skosh to make a second, slightly different one; may whitewash this one too...dunno yet.

Then I got involved making up slot car chassis for money. It's a Hobby, not a Job. Back in a couple days...

'Duster

[ct ertz]

Moneys always good though, job or hobby!

[Hudsonduster]

--no. Card Modeling's the Hobby. Slot racing became a Job, which is why I need Card Modeling.
'D

[ct ertz]

Sounds like me and sewing historic clothing! That turned into a 70 hour a week job back in the good old days. Burn out set in after a while. After 15 years I now haven't sewn a stitch for over a year now...

[sporticus]

Hey 'duster. Did you ever get round to making the paddles? If so do you have any tips?

[Hudsonduster]

AH!! --no.

If you follow my posts (and--what? Don't you have a girlfriend, or a LIFE, or something?) you'lll notice two oft-repeated phrases:
""It's a HOBBY, not a JOB!"
and
"Life Gets In The Way."
--Soooo, wull....no, I haven't put the paddles on this one. Had a ball getting this far, and then my daughter threatened to get kicked out of Mom's house and become homeless. Hobby--can wait.

But I got a couple ideas.

The small arc of paddles on the printout works pretty okay at this scale. Passing that--

Simplest would be, cut some strip of the width of the buckets and color it. Cut to the length of the buckets and color the ends. Done and ready.
Now, stare a long time at the side of your steamboat, focusing on that dot in the "center" of the paddlebox. In your mind's eye, fix that spot as the center of a circle around which you will glue THREE buckets, end-on, to the hull at about 75, 90, 105 positions.
Then, with fine tweezers--
(Momentary pause, allowing time to rush out to Harbor Freight for fine tweezers)
(In case you need 'em; if not, get some ice tea. I'm comin' back now, in three, two, one--)
--you dip one end of each bucket in a drop of Tacky and touch that end to your hull, at the spot you held in your mind's eye (what's that even mean, anyway?) as the perimeter of the circle. Hold 'til its kinda steady, then repeat two more times.
Now, bend a tiny bit of wire to glue on the outside of your arc, to stand in as the outer iron circle. Done.

I had one other idea, but I decided it's not as good.

'Duster

[sporticus]

My minds eye is struggling with working out what you mean!! If you had done them a picture would have probably helped! I'll have a go and see what I come up with. IF it's any good I shall share!!

[sporticus]

Would be good if it was a job :-)

[sporticus]

Corey, I believe i've come across a couple of minor errors so far.
Part 11- One of the wall sections (one of the 'corners') is plain black. I'm assuming this is an error and it should match the other walls?

Part 12- The white blank wall that the tab attaches to isn't long enough by quite a bit.

Hope that makes sense. No big issues, but if you know you can update the file and keep your customers happy!