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Clashster
07-23-2007, 04:56 PM
Well, true to form, I have started another model before finishing the one I was working on.... I am building Pro-Model's Mk 3 Grant that I got from Michael over at GreMir. I also started this thread for two reasons... One, to hopefully build this one completely (so feel free to give me a kick in the a** if I seem to be lagging). The other is to hopefully get Michael to put more armor on his site! Ok, on to some photos:

The frame work (sorry, no pics of the cut up pieces!):

215216217

And the bottom skin put on:

218

So far the fit has been good and it seems as if the model will go together well. The instructions consist of some drawings, but they are limited (for example, I am not exactly sure which order to put the skins on the frame... I am in the midst of cutting them all out and seeing what makes sense).

CharlieC
07-23-2007, 05:11 PM
The frame seems to be a bit flexible especially around the sponsons (the bits overhanging the tracks). Did you consider reinforcing these so that the skins will fit without the underlying frame moving around?

Regards,

Charlie

GreMir
07-23-2007, 05:18 PM
Good job, Chris!

Instructions are exactly as provided by the designer - I'm in the dark here since I know nothing about tanks :o
As for more armor, John Griffin is working on the Patton tank ;)

Clashster
07-23-2007, 05:40 PM
The frame seems to be a bit flexible especially around the sponsons (the bits overhanging the tracks).


Hey Charlie!
The frames are actually quite stiff. The bottoms skin has some overhang by the front gun, which may need reinforcement. I am cutting out all the skins now and will check to see if I need anything more to give it some support. Thanks for the idea!

Thanks, Michael! It seems to have very good fit, so hopefully the construction will be self explanitory! :D

CharlieC
07-23-2007, 09:13 PM
I hope my last didn't come across as criticism....

The easiest way I've found to reinforce open frames like the M3 is to use triangular pieces. The easiest way to make accurate triangles is to laminate a piece of graph paper onto 1mm card - this idea was on the old forum and it works very well.

Regards,

Charlie

Clashster
07-23-2007, 09:22 PM
I didn't take it as criticism! You have always been very helpful in my attempts at building armor. I remember that hint (of course had forgotten it until you brought it up!). I think the formers will be ok without extra support, but perhaps I will add some (unfortunately, I started glueing the skin on this evening). Nice thing about models from GerMir is I can always reprint it! Thanks, Charlie!

dansls1
07-24-2007, 04:40 AM
So far the fit has been good and it seems as if the model will go together well. The instructions consist of some drawings, but they are limited (for example, I am not exactly sure which order to put the skins on the frame... I am in the midst of cutting them all out and seeing what makes sense).

This is why I love all the build threads. Once people have made a model and figured out these little details, it makes it easier for others who may build the same model down the road.

Looking forward to seeing this one come together. This tank appeals to me as a build down the road someday maybe ;)

Clashster
07-24-2007, 07:08 PM
Some progress with the skinning and mounting the forward gun:

This is the gun pieces, together (sorry, forgot to take a middle picture of the framework etc) and test fitting:

254255256257

Then comes the start of the skins - seems the best way was to mount the bottom, then the top where the turrent will go (which the sides are attached) then the rest. Side with gaping hole. Side covered! :
258259260

Well, all for now.

milenio3
07-25-2007, 02:46 PM
This is going to be a good one. Armor models are not in my list, but I've always enjoyed see them built.

Though I think they are easier than airplanes, aren't they?

Clashster
07-25-2007, 03:13 PM
This one is going together very easily - I would say it is on the easier side. Now looking at the new Modelik models I just recieved (BA-10M, BA-6 & the Scud), I would have to disagree! Not to mention the Halinski armor models I have!

CharlieC
07-25-2007, 04:27 PM
Though I think they are easier than airplanes, aren't they?

No.

As a rough metric consider the number of parts compared to the size of the model. The WAK Pz IF is about 1500 parts and the model is about 180mm x 120mm x 100mm - I think there would be few airplane models that would pack that number of parts into this sized volume. The latest Halinski AFV model (T-34/76) runs to 7000 parts in a model about 250mm long - that's getting up to parts count of some of the big ship models.

Alternatively - if you're trolling I might remind you of my clan's motto - "Touch not the cat without a glove"

Regards,

Charlie

Clashster
07-25-2007, 09:43 PM
Here is the progress for today:


Got most of the skins on - side, front and rear views:

340339341

Next got the gun completely encased:
342343345
Just a minor problem - the part that is on top of the gun should have been laminated to 1 mm thick, but it was not indicated on the parts sheet. Not a big deal, just trimmed the piece that covered the lip (last picture) to fit properly - no one's the wiser!

And lastely a close up of some of the hatch details:
344

That's it for tonight!

dfarrell
07-26-2007, 12:28 AM
Hey Chris,
That is looking really good. It is funny, I was just thinking about how odd those Lee/ Grant tanks look and wondering if one existed in paper and here you are building one. I remember building a big plastic one from Monogram about a billion years ago...

GreMir
07-26-2007, 03:40 AM
....Just a minor problem - the part that is on top of the gun should have been laminated to 1 mm thick, but it was not indicated on the parts sheet....

Can you give me part number? I will correct it in th emodel.

Clashster
07-26-2007, 05:22 AM
Hey Mike!
It's part # 56.

dansls1
07-26-2007, 05:25 AM
This is going to be a good one. Armor models are not in my list, but I've always enjoyed see them built.

Though I think they are easier than airplanes, aren't they?

I think building tracks alone would make tanks more difficult than planes. They are either going to be done an easy way which doesn't look right, or have a ton of repeat builds that are going to be tedious and cause you to fret about making them all look the same. Heck - most planes you can skip landing gear and hang the model if you want. A tank without treads just isn't right.

milenio3
07-26-2007, 06:44 AM
Shoot! I have to view armor models (and I mean paper) in a whole different way.

cjwalas
07-26-2007, 06:49 AM
The treads and number of small wheels is what keeps me away from armor. I just don't have the patience! I keep buying kits, but I haven't built one yet!
This is coming together nicely, Chris. I look forward to seeing how it finishes.
Chris

Golden Bear
07-26-2007, 09:28 AM
The treads and number of small wheels is what keeps me away from armor. I just don't have the patience! I keep buying kits, but I haven't built one yet!
This is coming together nicely, Chris. I look forward to seeing how it finishes.
Chris


I agree with you Chris. A few years back I built the Halinski Tiger I and afterwards stopped building for about a year. Those wheels and those treads set me back severely. Recently I purchased one of the Draf tread sets with the hope that it would make the treads easier to deal with. After building three segments I decided that it may but not enough to make it tolerable for me. Too bad. I like armor.


Carl

Gharbad
07-26-2007, 10:39 AM
I "built" a Maly Tiger kit in... 98.
It's still unfinished.
I had 3 attempts to make the 64 wheels or whatever. I even got my brother to help me.
I'm going to try to kill it off after I finish my Husarz.

CharlieC
07-26-2007, 04:38 PM
I "built" a Maly Tiger kit in... 98.
It's still unfinished.
I had 3 attempts to make the 64 wheels or whatever. I even got my brother to help me.
I'm going to try to kill it off after I finish my Husarz.

You tried just about the hardest model (in terms of number of roadwheels) -
perhaps a easier option would have been a Russian BT tank (4 per side), or
a Sherman.

Regards,

Charlie

Gharbad
07-26-2007, 05:20 PM
You tried just about the hardest model (in terms of number of roadwheels) -
perhaps a easier option would have been a Russian BT tank (4 per side), or
a Sherman.

Regards,

Charlie

Hahah :D
Being the kid I was I picked the coolest thing I had :cool:

I finished a few tanks though. Some amphibian Polish light tank I threw out (edit PZInz 130), a 4TP, and a T-34. The T-34 is the only one that had individual links for the tracks. It came out ok, but it needs some serious edge painting.

The other tank kits I currently have are a Japanese Chi-He, a PzKpfw III, and a monster 1:16 Leopard 2A4.
I was planning on getting a Sherman, but didn't get it this time.

Johnny
07-27-2007, 09:55 AM
I like the tank! And you are doing some very nice work on it Chris!!
Will be nice to follow this build!!

Clashster
07-27-2007, 09:49 PM
Not a lot of progress, but here are some photos. In my excitement about cutting out parts, I mounted one of the fenders before I thought about it.... Might run into some issues with all the wheels.... I even knew I wanted to wait, but somehow, cutting it out and shaping it, the darn piece of paper forced me to mount it! I swear!

481480479478

Gharbad
07-27-2007, 09:59 PM
Forget the wheels, it looks good now!
Planning for the future is overrated :D

Yu Gyokubun
07-28-2007, 07:29 PM
It's a really nice work.
I started making German tank long time ago but stopped it because I was overwhelmed by wheels and caterpillars.
I am looking forward to seeing your thread and want to finish mine refer to your build.

Clashster
07-30-2007, 01:42 PM
Been working steadily on this one, but not much to show.... Attached are pictures of the wheels. There was some discussion earlier in the thread about the piece count on tanks wheels. Here are the parts cut out and an assembled wheel:

546

547

The completed wheel looks a bit distorted in the one picture, but it really isn't... Didn't realize the other was out of fucus until I added it to the post! Whoops!

Clashster
08-02-2007, 09:22 PM
It may not look like much progress, but I have been steadily cutting.... Had a small issue that slowed me down, but I am hoping to get some real work done the next few days. Here are some pics of the turrent framing and the hull where it will mount (it will be able to swivel, sweet!):

633634635636

Next is a wheel assembly (I'm posting these for you, Mike! Especially the second one! :D ):

637638

And the final one dry fit on the hull:

639

BTW, for those of you who have yet to buy a model from Mike at GreMir, BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE ON THE WEB!

dfarrell
08-03-2007, 12:01 AM
Keep it coming Chris, it is looking good. I'd love to see this one when it is finished, and since I don't think I'll ever build it, (like many others who have posted, all those little wheels with all those little parts scare me too much) I'm really counting on you!

Phil
08-03-2007, 08:45 AM
I looked up " patience" in the dictionary, and I'm pretty sure it said " armor paper modelers"! lol
I whine if the part count is above 10. Looks like you exceeded that count with the wheel alone.
Excellent execution so far Chris!

milenio3
08-03-2007, 11:06 AM
My oh my!!! Those tires are pretty pieces of models by themselves!!

Clashster
08-12-2007, 04:08 PM
Well, finally have some progress to show... It really hits me how slow I am when I look at the dates of the posts and the amount of progress! Oh well... slow but sure wins the race!

Some pictures of the rear wheel:

755756

and the road wheels mounted:
757758

And work has begun on the front sprocket (and a chance to show off my fancy Japanese punch and results! :D):

759760

That's all for now... Time to start the other side's wheels.... Plus I have started work on the turrent. Perhaps something to show soon!

CharlieC
08-12-2007, 05:25 PM
Great job on the drive sprocket - sounds like you're pretty happy with the Japanese punch.

It's a bit startling how many variants of suspension and sprockets there were in the M3/M4 - http://www.o5m6.de/vvss.html - for some of them.

Regards,

Charlie

Barry
08-12-2007, 05:38 PM
Looks real impressive mate

Clashster
08-12-2007, 05:59 PM
Thanks guys!
Thanks for the link, Charlie! There were quite a few varients... As I build more armor, I am learning quite a bit about it. And have gained many a website to add to my favorites!

Johnny
08-13-2007, 08:41 AM
Nice work Chris!!
I have to check out that Japaneese tool :)

cgutzmer
08-13-2007, 08:27 PM
Superb detail! Thanks for the pics and keep em coming!
Chris

Clashster
08-13-2007, 09:45 PM
Another update. Finished the drive sprocket for the first side:

843844

Having put the fender on this side may come back to haunt me when I get to the tracks... Not sure why I did that....

Next, some progress on the turrent and gun:

845846847

The bottom ring around the turrent and a test fit:
848849850

That's it for tonight!

Alcides
08-13-2007, 10:35 PM
Very nice. I think you are going to have a wonderful model to display.:)

Really I so tempt by to buy this M3.

CharlieC
08-14-2007, 03:45 AM
Having put the fender on this side may come back to haunt me when I get to the tracks... Not sure why I did that....


I don't think it will provided you don't join the track into a loop and try to get it on. The easy way would seem to be to feed the track around the idlers and join the ends on the model.

Regards,

Charlie

milenio3
08-14-2007, 11:25 AM
I don't know how to ask this, but let's see...
Will the tracking system roll? I mean, is your complete model capable of wheel-turning?
(Aghh, I hope my question is understandable, not being an armor guy myself).

Stev0
08-14-2007, 06:58 PM
Clasher ... that punch is pretty incredible. Any chance you can give away the place you got it?

The sprockets look damn near lasercut. :O

Gharbad
08-14-2007, 07:03 PM
I bought some random punches once, but they turned out to be for leather, with a huge angled edge.
They dent it pretty bad around the edges, but it's ok for cutting out circle parts, rather than circles from parts.

And yes, I want to know too!

Clashster
08-14-2007, 08:19 PM
I don't know how to ask this, but let's see...
Will the tracking system roll? I mean, is your complete model capable of wheel-turning?
(Aghh, I hope my question is understandable, not being an armor guy myself).

No, it is static. I'm really not that ambitious, Gerardo! I just want to finish something!!!

Clashster
08-14-2007, 08:23 PM
Clasher ... that punch is pretty incredible. Any chance you can give away the place you got it?

The sprockets look damn near lasercut. :O

StevO - I bought it off eBay a while back. Japanese screw punch. It came with the punch and 8 bits for $50 plus shipping. It is an awesome tool! I know others here will give testimonials! Here is a link (I think this may be the same guy I bought mine from):


screwpunch (http://cgi.ebay.com/Japanese-Screw-Punch-8-tips-for-paper-leather-etc-NEW_W0QQitemZ220139801387QQihZ012QQcategoryZ28133Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Stev0
08-14-2007, 09:56 PM
Thanks for the link. I don't think I need any testimonials since your work is good enough for me.

Keep this build 'on track'. ;)

ps. Good work so far.

dansls1
08-15-2007, 04:33 AM
This is a nice looking build - and a heck of a sales pitch for Gremir - I'm sure I'll end up buying this tank at some point down the road when I can clear the budget for it ;)

rlwhitt
08-15-2007, 05:43 AM
I for one will chime in with the screw punch recommendation. I could not live without it now. I can imagine this to be a perfect application too, with all those dozens of semi-circles! Those wheels look great!

wallaw
08-15-2007, 08:18 AM
Hi Clashter!

Your model is coming along great! I am very interested in your use of the Japanese punch tool. I have a similar tool in my hodge-podge of tools and gadgets. I found it tricky to keep the hole size uniform because of the taper on the bits. Extra care helps, but I still have some troubles. Looks like you are using it to great effect and success. I'll have to try again.

good luck with the build. Look forward to you progress.

Johnny
08-15-2007, 08:19 AM
I just had to get one.....so I hope it will be useful :)

Gharbad
08-15-2007, 10:30 AM
A bit too expensive for me unfortunately.
Maybe in a few years when I aim for higher quality builds.

But now let's not derail this to a screw punch discussion, or else Chris might forget to continue building!

Clashster
08-22-2007, 07:07 PM
As I start most posts on this build, not much to show for my time. Some pictures of the turrent in progress:

test fit:

10131014

Close up...
1015

some of the smaller parts:
1016

mounted:
1017

and finally glued to the hull (with a few more details:
1018

The turrent has some "battle damage".... Had some issues wrapping the skin (totally on my part - not know for planning ahead...), but overall, it is kind of minor.

CharlieC
08-22-2007, 08:31 PM
Is the turret framework a bit sparse? It looks like there wasn't sufficient support on the outside of the turret.

Pity the designer didn't offer the additional upper turret so you could have made an M3 Lee - the tank the Red Army referred to as "a brother grave for 7".

Regards,

Charlie

Clashster
08-22-2007, 08:36 PM
Actually, the frame work seemed fine - the skin attached at the top and bottom and then at certain points - the error on the close up from the front was due to attempting to glue the skin on in stages and not paying real close attention... The pictures seems to make it look much worse than it really is. The bump on the side of the turrent is actually part of the design...

milenio3
08-23-2007, 03:57 PM
I am also learning here about armors. This one looks good and I'm beginning to understand them.

Stev0
08-24-2007, 03:00 PM
I'd say hide it with something. There should be pics around with racks, plates or netting you can put to cover anything you dont want to show.

Clashster
10-15-2007, 06:44 PM
Well, it has been a long time since I updated my progress. Yeah, I'm slow... real slow... Finally finished one set of wheels and tracks. For the tracks, I used a version of Charlie C's track tutorial. The tracks are strip type, not the individual links. I started by cutting along the edge of each link while still attached to enough extra paper (careful not to extend to the paper's edge) - the one on the bottom. Then back it with tracing paper (center) and then cut out all the small pieces (the top snakey one):
1653

Here are the wheels on the side I didn't mount the fender yet:
16541655

The completed tracks (note the flexibility of the track):
16561657

And the tracks mounted:
16581659

With the fender mounted:
16601661

Ok, that took me forever.... Now I just have to do the other side!!!

Barry
10-15-2007, 06:55 PM
Well I'm impressed great looking job

Gharbad
10-15-2007, 06:55 PM
Looks awesome.
I love that track!

Great work Chris!

CharlieC
10-15-2007, 09:35 PM
Tracks and suspension are looking good. I'm pleased that my track build ideas were of some use to you.

Regards,

Charlie

Johnny
10-16-2007, 12:15 AM
Really really nice Chris!!

Any riveting plans? :)

dansls1
10-16-2007, 04:45 AM
Looks great!

Clashster
10-16-2007, 06:21 PM
Any riveting plans? :)

Sorry, Johnny, I don't think I will join you in your madness!! :D

Johnny
10-16-2007, 10:13 PM
LOL but it's woth it in the end chris!!

Gharbad
10-16-2007, 10:54 PM
I'd rather half finish another tank body than cover one with rivets :p

Clashster
11-05-2007, 11:10 AM
Well, finally finished this! Yesterday I made the final push to add all the small items and get it ready for the shelf! So, here are the pictures:

2020 2021 2031

2023 2024 2030

2026 2027

2028 2029

I have to say this was a very enjoyable kit. Fit was good and design was easy to put together yet it looks great. I would highly recommend this kit as an intermediate level armor kit. There were a few problems early on with some parts, but Michael GreMir straightened them out and was very helpful. Let's hope he gets more armor!

dansls1
11-05-2007, 11:50 AM
Great job!

Johnny
11-05-2007, 12:35 PM
Congrats with a very nice build Chris!!

rlwhitt
11-05-2007, 01:22 PM
VERY nice! Did you do all the tracks by hand? They look great.

Clashster
11-05-2007, 02:55 PM
I used a variation of Charlie C's track technique. The tracks in the kit were long strips attached together. Before cutting them out, I cut the edges where the links would be, backed them to some tracing paper and then cut them out. The tracks were quite flexible (the side fender hides the sag of the track :( - I thought it came out somewhat realistic looking). The tracks are probably what took me the longest to make (kind of tedious work...).

Gharbad
11-05-2007, 03:49 PM
The sunlight really shows it off!
Looks great Chris!

CharlieC
11-05-2007, 05:59 PM
The track seems to have come out pretty well. I agree that building the track this way takes a bit of time but you've shown the results are worth it.

The Grant looks really nice. I'm tempted to build it myself - with your build thread as a guide - it should be an easy build.

It's a pity it's not really possible to get at the images to recolour in the Gremir system. A Russian Grant or perhaps a British one in Burma * would be interesting.

Regards,

Charlie

* - The Grants which survived the desert campaign were sent to India and used in the Burma campaign mostly as SP guns. Apparently they were quite successful because the Japanese army had few tanks and those they had were lightly armed and couldn't engage the Grants.

CharlieC
11-07-2007, 06:56 PM
With Chris' permission I'll add my take on the Gremir Grant model to his thread.

Rather than replicating the whole build I'll only report the parts of the build where my build is different from Chris'.

As usual with my builds I do the tracks first. As Chris did I used a version of the technique used in the Pz 1F build.
These tracks were much faster to build compared to the Pz 1F tracks because there were no slots to cut out of the track. The Grant track was a typical US track design of the time - a rubber block track which was driven from the outside of the track. These tracks were very good on roads but were a problem in snow and soft ground.

I liked the design of the joint between track lengths seems to give a strong joint and automatically aligns the track ends.

Regards,

Charlie

CharlieC
11-19-2007, 07:51 PM
Finally finished the suspension. I added the nut shapes to the suspension elements. It would have been nice to have these supplied with the model parts as optional parts.

It takes a while to build the suspension bogies - each one contains 46 parts - adding nuts and washers takes the part count to 66.

Regards,

Charlie

Don Boose
11-19-2007, 08:02 PM
VERY fine work. I'm impressed!

Don B.

dansls1
11-19-2007, 08:05 PM
Very clean - looking good!

Barry
11-19-2007, 08:49 PM
impressive !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GreMir
11-19-2007, 10:09 PM
...It would have been nice to have these supplied with the model parts as optional parts...

I don't have a problem adding them to the model if somebody (hint, hint) can design them :rolleyes:

Correction...
Those parts are probably already drawn there, right?
If you can point them out to me (I'm ignorant in the armor subject), I could probably copy them from original parts and add as an optional separate parts.

Clashster
11-19-2007, 10:34 PM
Looks great, Charlie! I especially like the realism the bolts and washers have added.... Fortunately, I am not the jealous type...

CharlieC
11-19-2007, 10:38 PM
I don't have a problem adding them to the model if somebody (hint, hint) can design them :rolleyes:

Correction...
Those parts are probably already drawn there, right?
If you can point them out to me (I'm ignorant in the armor subject), I could probably copy them from original parts and add as an optional separate parts.

Too easy....

The small nuts on Part 65b (36)

The larger nuts on Part 65a (48)

The nut shape in Part 65i (24) - keep the existing Part 65i - these can act as the washers for the nuts.

All the nut parts should be on 0.5 - 0.8mm card.

You can't put small nuts on the inside of the bogie arms
because they interfere with the wheels.

Regards,

Charlie

GreMir
11-20-2007, 04:52 PM
Charlie,
Thanks. I added the nuts to the model.
If anybody who purchased Grant already needs them, shoot me an email I will send you a PDF file with them.

gollygee
11-28-2007, 11:16 PM
Nice, Very NICE!!!

George

jimkrauzlis
12-01-2007, 06:54 AM
Quite an extraordinary build, Chris!

We're all very lucky you took the time to post so many illustrative pictures of your build as you went along; I, for one, very much appreciate the time you took to take so many superb progress photos! This model came out great!

Charlie, as usual, your abilities in this craft are awesome to see. Thanks for posting progress shots of your build, too. Your track technique is just one of many gems I have enjoyed learning from your posts.

I also want to thank Mike for not only making such kits available to us but for taking such an interactive role in upgrading the kits based on feedback from modelers, such as the addition of bolts based on Charlie's input...I rather doubt you will find such a close relationship between kit makers and modelers as we are so fortunate to see in this hobby.

I have recently dabled a bit in the armor field, ships being my first and true love, but seeing such superb builds makes one want to try ones hand at building one of these excellent models. I have an unfinished T-55 designed by Nobi that just cries for completion, not to mention a few unstarted kits from Cliff and others...once I get some free time again I really want to finish at least one of them, if not more. So many models, so little time to build them....

Cheers!
Jim

CharlieC
12-02-2007, 06:34 PM
Just a couple of links to Grant walkarounds I've been looking at during my Grant build (might help other Grant builds).

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reference/armour/m3grant/m3grant.htm
http://photos.kitmaker.net/showgallery.php?cat=13446

The Perth Grant images really show the rivet lines on the hull. The US gave the Australians some 750 Grants during WW2 but they were never used operationally. Certainly the Matildas were much better for jungle fighting in New Guinea.

Regards,

Charlie

CharlieC
12-03-2007, 10:37 PM
Got the hull done. Tried to indicate the rivet lines by embossing - this worked only moderately well since I couldn't get access to the parts sheet images to make templates to show the rivet positions. I would have liked to add the nut and bolts on the casting joining plates at the front of the hull but these were a bit too small for me to cut out - probably should buy some of the laser cut nuts for this.

I thought the modeled hull gun diameter was a bit big so rebuilt it around a 3mm drill bit (i.e. scale 75mm). It may have come out a bit skinny but I like it better than the original.

Regards,

Charlie

Clashster
12-04-2007, 06:33 AM
Nice and clean, Charlie! Your color makes me wonder about my printer... The colors were very muted when I printed it...

CharlieC
12-04-2007, 06:40 AM
The uploaded images are a bit muted - the base colour is a bit more "yellow" than in the images. I used a Canon IP530 printer (my old i560 died).

Regards,

Charlie

CharlieC
12-06-2007, 07:57 PM
Finished....

Overall it's not a difficult model to build - there are some issues I ran into.

- I had a lot of trouble with the upper turret - made a mess out of the long piece that wraps around the turret and had to "rescue" it. I notice that the other build had problems as well so it might be a design problem.

- The pickaxe head position on the model is clearly wrong. I did a bit of research and found the position indicated (in front of the 75mm turret) seemed to come from a Russian drawing. In fact only the wire cutter and jack seem to be stored in this position - neither of these were modelled. It wouldn't make sense to store the pickaxe head and handle on different parts of the hull - I put both parts on the rear deck.

- I'd like to make the comment that "rubber is only black when it's straight out of the mould". I can't see that it is much effort to colour the rubber parts a more realistic colour in the design phase.

- The model does not have any tabs so you have to make your own joining pieces where necessary.

- The build diagrams are limited and there is no text to indicate the build order. This makes the model a bit harder to build than the design complexity. For example I found that the only satisfactory way to get the skin on the hull frame was to join most of the hull parts together and wrap the long piece around the frame (with lots of dry fitting).

Regards,

Charlie

CharlieC
12-06-2007, 08:03 PM
Can't seem to add more than 3 images to a post....

I seem to be coming up with new idea for each model I build....

On the rear deck the tools have obvious bare metal bits. Rather than try to model this with grey paint I tried using very soft lead pencils - I think the effect is reasonably convincing. You can't use the normal "HB" pencil but 6B or 8B seems to work quite well.

Regards,

Charlie

Clashster
12-06-2007, 08:57 PM
Looks great, Charlie! At least I was happy to hear it wasn't just me with the turrent! But still, a nice model to build (the diagrams were a bit lacking)... easy enough to entice some of the fly boys to give it a try!! Thanks for the updates and ideas for my next build!!

rlwhitt
12-07-2007, 06:27 AM
Outstandfing Charlie! And you have made it look easy enough to maybe temp me into track-land!

Clashster
12-07-2007, 06:35 AM
You should try it, Rick! It was actually a very fun build... Not too difficult, but the results come out very nice!