IJN Shikishima, GPM, 1:200

[docrox]

After finishing the USS California for the moment I was fed up with AAs or life rafts.
So I checked my stock and found the IJN Shikishima, a pre dreadnought Japanese battleship.
Laser cut formers, machined barrels and the photo etched set were on hand too.

Informations about the ship are found here:
Japanese battleship Shikishima - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_battleship_Shikishima)

[docrox]

The skeleton was finished within 3 hours thanks for the pre cut frames.
I started hull plating from bow to the middle and then from stern. The last part had to be slightly trimmed. The joints were filled with hot wax then troweled up with a tool. The hull was then coated with a pore filler. Sanding followed, after that a layer of revel colour was applied.
A second sanding and a last layer of colour was done next. Then the shafts with their brackets and palms as well as the rudder were glued on to the hull

Hans Gerd

[redhorse]

Interesting ship, I'll be following this one.

[Greg S.]

Coincidentally, I am building a Shikishima. However, I am not using a kit but am working from simple drawings from a Japanese book.

I will be following you with added interest.

[docrox]

The main deck was laminated with 1mm cardboard. First I mistook the gray circles as skylights but a look at the instructions showed that they had to be punched.

The formers for the anchor bearings were added and the hull plating began. Before attachment the casemates had to be fitted.

Hans Gerd

[birder]

your shipbuilds are a joy to watch! Wonderful work Hans

[eibwarrior]

Hello Hans. Very nice start to this pre-dred.

You did such great work on California. I will watch your build with great interest.

[docrox]

The last 2 weeks there was no progress with Shikishima:
First I attended a fair at Friedrichshafen, Lake Constance, for 4 days presenting some of my models. Then I caught a cold.
Nevertheless the hull is closed! The junction between upper and lower hull was covered with black duct tape. the protecting rip is made of a thin polystyrol strip.

[eibwarrior]

Good start Hans. I know what you mean about distractions. It's funny how little things can take your attention away from a project.

Looks like you've managed to get back into her.

Keep the updates coming!

[docrox]

Finally, I managed to attach the upper deck, there are casemates to build in too.

[docrox]

The front commanding bridge followed. The railings and ladders derive from the GPM etched parts set. to find the right position of the railing parts you`ll have to try a little.

[docrox]

Next inline was the aft bridge. While fixing the railings I forgot to allow for the ladder openings, so the railing misfits.

CU

Hans Gerd

[B-Manic]

Looks pretty good to me Hans.

[dansls1]

Very nice - a mark of your perfectionism that you consider that a misfit ;)

[eibwarrior]

Very nice work Hans. Excellent rail and ladder details. The great detail work is what really sets your models apart from the rest.

[docrox]

Thanks for your kind comments.
Quite a lot of skylights had to be done. I punched the holes and filled them with clear varnish. After drying I painted the down side with black Revell color.
Then all are cut out, the edges colored and then glued to their place.

[docrox]

The three funnels are done too. The steam pipes are made of brass wire, the fixations are from the etched parts set.

CU

Hans Gerd

[B-Manic]

Looks good - great job on the pipes.

[redhorse]

This is shaping up very nicely!

[docrox]

During the weekend I did some of my favorite :) parts: vents.
After rounding they were glued step by step, then thinned white glue was applied, after drying the whole thing was sanded. When the first layer of paint was dry another sanding was done. At last yellow paint was put on, the inside was painted red.

Some skylights and hatches were applied too.

Finally I fixed the stern gallery, the railing is part of the etched parts set.

CU

Hans Gerd

[Don Boose]

Nice work on the ventilators! The photos and your description are a fine mini-tutorial on these difficult parts.

Don

[docrox]

Then I got rid of some white spots on the forecastle and the after deck, i.e. bollards, capstan, clamps, skylights e.c.

[docrox]

The aft turret was completed too.
Second pic shows the status quo.

CU

Hans Gerd

[birder]

Very nice as always, Hans. Beauty. Have to notice the propellers and wings on the shelf, can we see a peek at those?:)

[eibwarrior]

Clean work Hans. This one has gone together perfectly, and very fast!

Excellent work.

[redhorse]

That looks really good! I agree with Glen, do you have any shots of your aircraft? And also, where do you keep all of your ships? I would be great to see a fleet overview picture!

[docrox]

Hi Glen and Jim,

I will take some pics and post them.

CU

Hans Gerd

[docrox]

Hi Jim,

here is the place where I keep my ships.

CU

Hans Gerd

[redhorse]

Thanks much for the pics Hans Gerd. They look really good, so many big ships all together!

[eibwarrior]

Wow Hans. Nice collection! I'm very envious.

I don't want to imagine how many hours you have invested in that room. That's quite a resume of model building.

[docrox]

Photo etched ladders were attached to the hull.
Then some rope drums had to be built, they are part of the etched set.
The two commanding bridges were equipped.
Then four searchlights, again I used alu-foil for the reflector and a transparent disc to close the hole thing. The aparture is a photo etched part.

[docrox]

Shikishima was equipped with 8 76mm guns above the main deck.
Barrels are in the set, hand weels are standard parts.

CU

Hans Gerd

[dansls1]

Incredible detail work as always!

[Michael Mash]

That sure is some very fine work on that Shikishima.
Lots of very good images as well.
Mike

[docrox]

Started with the boats, 4 of them look like midget torpedo carriers.
Whenever I see hull constructions like those, I get the creeps.
First I closed the slots in the hulls. Then the doubled bottom deck was fixed to one half, after drying the other side was attached. Afterwards the bottom was closed, section by section.Then the upper deck was adjusted. Finally the hull was soaked with pores filler and then sanded. Painting was done at last with Revell color.
The superstructure was an easy work after that. Railings are included in the set and the bollards are made from plastic rods.

CU

Hans Gerd

[Michael Mash]

I have at least a dozen of those small boats to do later on my current build .............. So I'm taking notes!
Great work.

[eibwarrior]

Great detail work as always Hans. I envy your patience. That's a lot of time to invest in the ship's boats, but the results are spectacular.

The Shikishima is destined for museum quality results.

[redhorse]

Great looking boats, I love the rails. Any idea what the bent tube is sticking out of the top? Is it a funnel?

[docrox]

Hi Jim,

it`s the funnel, laid down for better handling aboard I guess.

Hans Gerd

[docrox]

Here we go on:

a second boat was build as well as four anchors.

[docrox]

Next was the front mast.
The upper part is a skewer, sanded to a conical shape with the help of a drilling machine. The yards are brass are brass rods.

[docrox]

Today I did some part of the port railing (GPM standard etched part) an then the anchor crane.

CU

Hans Gerd

[Michael Mash]

Impressive. You cover more ground with your build in several days than I do in a month! I'm enjoying following your progress, and picking up a lot of "tips" as well.
Mike

[redhorse]

Looks good! What are you using to rig? I really like the drooping lines on the yards.

[GreMir]

It's really amazing what can be achieved in paper by a skilled modeler.

[Yu Gyokubun]

Looks good! What are you using to rig? I really like the drooping lines on the yards.

Agree and me too really want to know the material of rig

[docrox]

The rigging was made with stretched sprue, pulled across a thumb nail so it curls. Then you cut it to fit between the blocks.
Hope this i of some help for you.

Hans Gerd

[Yu Gyokubun]

The rigging was made with stretched sprue, pulled across a thumb nail so it curls. Then you cut it to fit between the blocks.
Hope this i of some help for you.

Hans Gerd

Stretched sprue!!! What a great idea. I didn't even think of it
Thank you

[redhorse]

Thanks, Hans Gerd. Most helpful!

[B-Manic]

The rigging was made with stretched sprue, pulled across a thumb nail so it curls. Then you cut it to fit between the blocks.
Hope this i of some help for you.

Hans Gerd

Sounds like a tip I would like to try. What diameter sprue and how do you stretch it???

[docrox]

Hi Douglas,
usually I take piece of the waste frame of a plastic kit, heat it over a candle or a tea warmer and then stretch it. The diameter of the filament depends on the speed with which you spread your hands.

Hans Gerd

[B-Manic]

Thanks Hans. They sell sprue rods at the local hobby shop, that's why I asked about the diameter.

[docrox]

Next I fitted the steel plates, which normally close the casemate apertures. They graciously occlude some inaccuracies. The aft port railing was attached too. Then I couldn`t resist in placing the mast provisionally.

[Don Boose]

Beautiful work, as always, hans gerd.

I'm curious about the funnels(?) for the steam launches (torpedo boats?). Does the tube that looks like a funnel sticking up have a permanent bend? Or is it bent over to save stowage space? And what is the purpose of the other tube sticking out over the prow? Is that a torpedo tube?

You mentioned torpedo launchers, but the cocked upwards angle seems wrong for a torpedo tube. Or is the forward tube cocked up that way while the boat is stowed and then lowered toward the water when the boat goes into action?

Don

[Michael Mash]

Shikishima is looking terrific. And I am still struck by your speed. Looks like you started her about October 21. So here it is, two months and you are nearing completion. Also, by your images, it appears as if you save the props and rudder for last. Not a bad idea. Probably helps in keeping them from getting knocked off.
Great work.
Mike

[Greg S.]

:( I made a grammatical error & couldn't delete the message. I could only change it. Ignore this.

[Greg S.]

Very fine work. I especially like the anchor wells.

[whulsey]

A tip for stretching sprue that was shown me is to use stick incense. It gives a very small, steady intense heat source so you have more control then with an open flame.

[Papercut]

A tip for stretching sprue that was shown me is to use stick incense. It gives a very small, steady intense heat source so you have more control then with an open flame.
Outstanding tip for streching spure. Many years ago I build WW1 Aircraft in 1/72 scale and used streched spure for the flying/rigging wire. You cut the spure just alittle longer than required, attached w/a small, small dab of super glue and when you had given the glue time to set off, light a match, blow it out and very, very carefully passed the sprue w/it, it heated the spure and as it cooled again all slack was removed and you got a tightened rigging wire. Had be make sure to only get one at a time, or you got to do it all over again. So I see where your idea has merit. Cool:cool:

[docrox]

Hi Don,
just look at this http://www.hedram.de/WSP/1919/torpedoboot.jpg drawing, showing a German Imperial Navy torpedo boat at 1890.

Hans Gerd

[Don Boose]

Thanks, Hans-Gerd. Those were remarkable-looking torpedo boats.

These photos clear up the mystery for me.

Don

[docrox]

Little was done during the holidays.
The second anchor crane was erected as well as anchor chains fitted.
Then eight 3-pounders were built and positioned.
Presently I`m busy with the aft mast.

CU

Hans Gerd

[Don Boose]

Nice work, Hans Gerd! Those were massive anchor cranes.

Don

[Michael Mash]

I agree, those are massive cranes, compared with other ships of the era.
I give you credit for all those nice closeup shots. Good camera work.
Your work will stand up to it.
Mike

[Papercut]

Nice, and enough detail to keep you looking. Your railing is neat and crisp. Keep up the great work, helps to get me ready for the next project.:D I too am an hobby photographer, you are very good at the close-up work. Your depth of field is good. What equipment are you using.

[docrox]

Hi Papercut,
I use a simple Canon PowerShot A550 with 7.1 Megapixels

Hans Gerd

[Papercut]

Hi Papercut,
I use a simple Canon PowerShot A550 with 7.1 Megapixels

Hans Gerd
Well docrox your photography skills are not simple. I use a Sony a300 Digital SLR w/10.2 pixels. Part of the fun of modeling is combining two hobbies together to complement each one. The only problem w/a camera above 10 Mega pixels is you must run thru Paint Shop and re-size. Have thought about using smaller camera. Thanks for your answer.:D

[docrox]

Repetitions were on program:
The aft mast is a copy of the front mast only the derrick is fastened on the back side.
Two boats with torpedo tubes found their places. Here it shows that an open hatch was in the way, it had to be closed.

Hans Gerd

[Don Boose]

Magnificent ship, Hans Gerd. I can't wait to see it in one of your action photographs.

Don

[Michael Mash]

That bow shot is terrific. Very clear. It really shows some great work.
Mike

[eibwarrior]

Nice pictures Hans. The ship's boats are wonderfully detailed for that scale. No glossing over those details. They really bring your ship to life!

[birder]

Beautiful Hans! The colors set if off nicely, very pretty ship.:)

[docrox]

At the moment it`s only the weekends I do progress on Shikishima.
I put on the guys of the funnels and the masts, built four more boats and started with the davits.
When trying to rig the derrick I found there were no winches enclosed. So I have to do some investigations.

Hans Gerd

[Don Boose]

Beautiful, clean work on those guy wires, Hans Gerd. Your detail work is amazing. You really bring this historic warship to life.

Don

[Michael Mash]

Great looking work doc. Nice images. I think your work with guy wires (stretched sprue) and the like is excellent.
Mike

[redhorse]

Good to see another update! The ship is really coming together well.

[docrox]

Continued with more guy wires for the masts. I treated each derrick to a winch, which I took from another model. Then the rigging of the derricks was completed. Added more davits. Six sampans were built too.

Hans Gerd

[Michael Mash]

Great to see your latest work. You have been busy. Those sampans represent some real build time. Also, I like the closeups of the rigging work.
Mike

[eibwarrior]

Your stretched sprue rigging is very sharp Hans. You can't beat that finished appearance. I can't imbibe enough CA into fiber thread to get a look that taut.

As always, your details are very fine and very crisp.

You're a real inspiration to the rest of us.

[docrox]

When all the davits were attached, the whole ship was over sprayed with dull varnish to give an uniformly surface. Then all windows and port holes are closed with CrystalClear. Finally a started with the rigging of the boats and sampans.

Hans Gerd

[redhorse]

You've really produced a beautiful model here. Are you going to take some action-photos I hope? I love those!

[docrox]

Hi Jim, promised.

Hans Gerd

[birder]

Very pretty work Hans! It is much fun to follow your threads.:)

[Michael Mash]

More wonderful work. (and good images). What is "closed with CrystalClear"?
Mike

[docrox]

Hi Mike,
I just add the advertisement of the company:

KRISTAL KLEAR

If there ever was a modelers' secret, this is it. Micro Kristal Klear can do so many things, you will not believe that any product can make such a big difference in the appearance of your models.

First, Micro Kristal Klear is a liquid that can be used to form very real looking small windows up to 1/4" in size. It also is an adhesive for mounting clear plastic parts, windows, etc., on models. It can be used to make lenses both clear and colored with the addition of a little food coloring. What really makes a remarkable difference in your models is the simple fact that the clear parts can be joined to the painted parts with a completely clear adhesive. What this means is that you do not have to mask around the clear parts, something that is rarely completely successful any way. Plus the sills which are painted can be seen through the Micro Kristal Klear for the most realistic looking windows you will see on a model.

What the pros like best is that it is fast and easy and stays clear. It cleans up with water while wet and is waterproof when dry. You can tell when it's dry because it turns from milky white to clear. If you need a super strong and flexible adhesive for wood, plastic, paper or most combinations of dissimilar materials, this is a handy thing to have.

For the making of small windows, you just dip a toothpick in this thick liquid and apply a little all around the edges. Then, holding the toothpick as flat as you can to the opening, draw it across from one side of the opening to the other. You will pick up a bubble which will form a very thin window of scale thickness that is also strong and flexible. When installing larger clear parts, paint the model first. Just apply a little Micro Kristal Klear along the edges to be joined, put in place and let dry.

[Don Boose]

It's another magnificent model, Hans Gerd. And I very much appreciate your detailed tutorial on the value and use of Micro Kristal Klear.

I have really enjoyed this thread and anticipate that I will come back to these photographs over and over again to enjoy all the details as well as the overall impression of this great ship.

Don

[docrox]

The boats and sampans are all rigged, the torpedo net booms attached as well as the propellers.
What is lacking is the rest of the rigging

Hans Gerd

[jimbean]

Question for anyone,
The photos above show some rods or booms on the outside of the hull at a 45 degree angle. What are these for? I have been puzzled since I started the Lexington model, which has some similar devices at the stern.
TIA JimBean

[shrike]

Supports for torpedo nets (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torpedo_nets)

[eibwarrior]

On the LEX, they're probably the booms for boarding onto ship's boats.

As displayed on this model, they're for torpedo nets as Shrike identifiied.

[Michael Mash]

Almost done. Beautiful boat and great job doc. I'm wondering what you are going to pull out of your inventory to takle next.
Mike

[docrox]

Done!

IJN Shikishima is commissioned. The rest of the rigging was done with stretched sprue.
This model was a pleasure to build. It`s got a nice coloring and there were no great bugs in it`s construction. The etched parts set contains all the items it should.
More gallery and action pics will follow when time and lighting conditions will allow.

At the moment I`m drawing the outlines of the parts to be etched for the Altmark, scale 1/200!

Until these are done and etched there will be Giuseppe Garibaldi, Modelik, 1/200
as next project.

Hans Gerd

[treadhead1952]

That is a most awesome build Hans.

Following your build has been most educational for me and I appreciate all your excellent tips and tricks that you have shown throughout, thanks.

Jay Massey
treadhead1952
Las Vegas, NV

[member_3]

Beautiful model and super build thread. Thanks for sharing your techniques and expertise with us.

[Michael Mash]

Terrific job. There is a lot of great instructional material in this thread (thanks for the info on Micro Kristal Klear). Looking forward to Giuseppe Garibaldi, Modelik, 1/200.
MIke

[docrox]

Tis Saturday I attended a meeting of card modelers where presented my Shikishima. When putting it back into the tranportation box I tore off the two yards of the fore mast. Furthermore a friend told me that the ship would look much better with rain gutters for the portholes.
So I spent Sunday with repairs and attaching rain gutters.
So, here are the final pics of the finished IJN Shikishima.

Hans Gerd

[docrox]

Some more pics following

[docrox]

"Action" shots can be seen here: http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/563-action-fotos-6.html#post34822

[B-Manic]

That is a beautiful model Hans. Congratulations on a great build. The "eye brows" or rain gutters look good.

[eibwarrior]

Fantastic job Hans! This is a wonderful model.

A real testament to that era of warships on the high seas.

[Don Boose]

Another superb model, Han-Gerd!

The photographs are wonderful. Such detail and precision! You fully capture the look adn impression of this beautiful warship.

Don

[Michael Mash]

Great conclusion to a great build. Lots of images. Anyone who wants to build this ship in the future needs to have a look here. Terrific thread with lots of tips.
Mike

[Yu Gyokubun]

Congratulations on your superb Shikishima.
Let me employ many of your tips that you showed throughout the thread and I am looking forward to your next ship Giuseppe Garibaldi build

[redhorse]

This was a great build as yours always are Hans-Gerd. Those action shots are top notch! I'm looking forward to the next one.

[Papercut]

You sir are a craftmans of the highest order, both in your ability to bring to life in paper a three deminsional object, then place it into a real world setting thru your skill as a photographer. :DRick