Modelik BA-6 Russian Armoured Car

[eatcrow2]

I stated this build on a new forum that I surfed into that was having a group build on "Evolution of War" From World War I to 1939Anything from this timeline , The Great War to The Spanish Civil War & anything between . My in progress pics are here...

1/25 BA-6 Russian Armoured Car "late 1930's" (http://tanksandthings.niceboard.net/lauras-group-build-evolution-of-war-f21/1-25-ba-6-russian-armoured-car-late-1930-s-t881.htm)

The group is mostly plastic/armoured modelers, but they were receptive on allowing cardmodels that were on-topic. Impressed enough by the details in the BA-6, that they wouldn't mine seeing some others postings. Now I know that there are of a lot of Armour/military vehicles modelers out there that are doing a lot better work than anything I'm showing (Johnny & Jim Nunn pop into my mind). So if your so inclined, find a suitable topic and post one of your projects. The group build I'm in is closed for entries, but you can post away in other catagories. The forum is quite friendly, and I'm slowly doing my best to lead a few over to the dark side :)

The forum URL is...

Free forum : Tanks & Things (http://tanksandthings.niceboard.net/forum.htm)




(http://tanksandthings.niceboard.net/lauras-group-build-evolution-of-war-f21/)

[CharlieC]

That's a great looking build of the BA-6 - certainly impressing the "tanksandthings" plastic modelers.

Regards,

Charlie

[pmbirner]

Peter,
An inspiring build. Its motivating me to start my 1943 Studebaker/BM13 rocket launcher.

I have a question on how you are doing your lug nuts. How do you keep them from delaminating when you cut them out. I tried making lug nuts for another paper truck and must have cut out only one successful lug nut for every 5 or so I attempted. The rest delaminated into little slivers of paper. Even after completed, the good ones had a tendency to come apart once attached to the model. All in all a rather frustrating experience.

Thanks,
Phil

[eatcrow2]

Peter,
An inspiring build. Its motivating me to start my 1943 Studebaker/BM13 rocket launcher.

I have a question on how you are doing your lug nuts. How do you keep them from delaminating when you cut them out. I tried making lug nuts for another paper truck and must have cut out only one successful lug nut for every 5 or so I attempted. The rest delaminated into little slivers of paper. Even after completed, the good ones had a tendency to come apart once attached to the model. All in all a rather frustrating experience.

Thanks,
Phil

Phil.. Thanks for the comments. What I did this time and it helped a little, was to coat the back side with some CA before cutting them out and it helps keep them sort of together, though I still had a couple that started to de-laminate. Once I have them on, I gave them a thin coating of a watered down white glue to kind of hold them together. Seems to be working.

You got me thinking, and I think the next time I have to back them up on thicker stock, I'm going to glue to regular paper, repeat that step until I have the right thickness.. can't be any worse than what I have been doing, and I think it'll help because we would have glue in between each layer..

Great question.. would be cool to have some more input on other ideas..

At the moment I'm drooling over the post by WAK of their new US releases...:)

[ct ertz]

Too cool! I have done a couple of armored cars in 1:72 scale but they are quite simple next to this!

[whulsey]

Really nice work there, Peter.

[Jim Nunn]

Peter,

I jumped over to the other forum and looked at your built, very nice work. I think you should show it over here, your pastel chalk work is superb. I don’t use chalk but after looking at your added weathering I’m going to open the box I have and give it try.

Jim Nunn

[eatcrow2]

Peter,

I jumped over to the other forum and looked at your built, very nice work. I think you should show it over here, your pastel chalk work is superb. I don’t use chalk but after looking at your added weathering I’m going to open the box I have and give it try.

Jim Nunn

Hi Jim... I like the chalk because I feel I have a lot more control with the shading and blending.. I like how I can apply it in an area, and then with a soft brush fade it on out to where it disappears into the surrounding color..

Here's some pics of the model and the build so far..

[eatcrow2]

More showing part of the motor and the front wheel drums..

[eatcrow2]

And here's where I'm at up to today.. One set of rear wheels & drum. I'll go on to something else, and then another set of these. keeps me from getting burned out on the repetition of the same assembly. All weathering and wear is from pastel chalks and pencils.. So far no major problems that haven't been of my own making. The diagrams are well thought out IMO, and I have clearly shown how things are suppose to go (at least to this point)..

[Don Boose]

This is a really fine build, Peter, with some very good information on building techniques (use of pastels, laminating for small parts, and more).

Don

[pmbirner]

Peter

What I did this time and it helped a little, was to coat the back side with some CA before cutting them out and it helps keep them sort of together, though I still had a couple that started to de-laminate. Once I have them on, I gave them a thin coating of a watered down white glue to kind of hold them together. Seems to be working.

I'll give the CA coating trick a try. Once I open a bottle of that stuff it turns to unusable goo before I use even a part of the container. This looks to be a good way to use up the CA before it becomes unusable.

I suppose another solution is to purchase the laser cut paper nuts. I've heard, however, these also tend to delaminate. But then giving them a coating of the thined out white glue sounds like a good option as well. Thanks.
Phil

[CharlieC]

From experience it's usually only the small sizes of laser cut nuts (<= 1mm) that delaminate. Jim Nunn suggests using Future Floor Wax before separating the laser cut nuts from the sheet. I've used thinned PVA glue - it works but it is a bit fiddly to use - too much and the card turns to mush.

Regards,

Charlie

[eatcrow2]

Peter
I'll give the CA coating trick a try. Once I open a bottle of that stuff it turns to unusable goo before I use even a part of the container. This looks to be a good way to use up the CA before it becomes unusable.

I suppose another solution is to purchase the laser cut paper nuts. I've heard, however, these also tend to delaminate. But then giving them a coating of the thined out white glue sounds like a good option as well. Thanks.
Phil

Phil.. I keep my CA in the refrigerator.. use it for whatever, and then stick it back into the fridge.. keeping it cool seems to help the longevity.
The laser ones tend to de-laminate also, but I have had better luck with them, then the ones I cut out. I like to dip them in Future, blot off the excess.. and then cut them out when dry.
The next model where I have to beef up the smaller parts, I'm going to give the "gluing on consecutive sheets till I have the thickness I want" a try.. All my lug nuts on this have already been put on thicker stock, but I'm sure there's more fiddly bits in here that I'll be able to try this with..

[eatcrow2]

From experience it's usually only the small sizes of laser cut nuts (<= 1mm) that delaminate. Jim Nunn suggests using Future Floor Wax before separating the laser cut nuts from the sheet. I've used thinned PVA glue - it works but it is a bit fiddly to use - too much and the card turns to mush.

Regards,

Charlie

Jim Nunn always has the best ideas........:)

[Jim Nunn]

Gentlemen,

I need to give the devil his due, Peter is the person who started me using future floor wax.
I have my doubts if there is a good method to keep small laser nuts from delaminating. After a time the parts that I have used future on have delaminated. I think the real issue is the paper that Darf is using to make these parts.

Jim Nunn

[eatcrow2]

Have added the rear springs.. painted with Humbrol flat black, and then buffed with graphite dust with my finger.. rust and wear added using chalks. Will knock out another set of rear tires next..

[batidores]

Ho!, a great work , I'm impressed for the subtle use of the paint.
What a nightmare of suspension.
Watching your work I'm thinking in put bolts and screws in the chassis of my ZIS.
really ugly the colour of the all modelik engines!

I'm going to follow all the news about it.

Saludos.

[member_3]

The construction is excellent but the weathering is superb!

[Johnny]

Inspiering work as always Peter!!

[eatcrow2]

Inspiering work as always Peter!!

Thanks Johnny!!!

Slow going at the moment, but I've put together the two rear axles that will go in between the rear leaf springs..

[eatcrow2]

Added the rear axles to the leaf springs.. These were a major "pain in the &^%" to fit, without tearing any of the parts that were already glued up.. But there in.. it'll all be covered anyway, so though I'm not that happy with it, it is what it is.. Next up will be building and adding the drive train..transmission.. and the motor. Plus working on sets of tires.

[eatcrow2]

Small update... have installed the motor, and added the drive shaft.. hooking it up to the differential <sp> in the rear. Very fiddly work trying to get all the tiny bits to line up, plus install the pins that hold it all together.

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

I think that looks excellent. I can see that being very difficult and trying.

Chassis and wheels and lower workings of Russian and USSR trucks were and are still painted with gloss black lacquer even in Wartime. I see trucks in Ukraine the same way even. It is old process still used for some reason.

[eatcrow2]

I think that looks excellent. I can see that being very difficult and trying.

Chassis and wheels and lower workings of Russian and USSR trucks were and are still painted with gloss black lacquer even in Wartime. I see trucks in Ukraine the same way even. It is old process still used for some reason.

Thanks for the comment, and the painting tip.. Good thing to remember the next time I do another Russian vehicle. Which might be one of the Orlik "Zis-5" truck variations that I've been looking at.

[THE DC]

Keep up the thread!


This is a good build.



The DC

[shrike]

They were probably dipped in paint some where along the assembly line. Datsun(Nissan) used to do that with all of their suspension parts too. When you clean them up during restoration you find drips and runs, but no missed spots.

[eatcrow2]

Have made up the floor, and added some of the components. Just test fitted to the chassis, as I still have stuff too add,regarding the muffler & piping underneath.

[eatcrow2]

Here's what I'm using for cutting out my circles, and frames.. The new "tip" on adding CA to your initial hole makes a big difference. You can see the lump of beeswax that I use to drag my blade through anytime I'm cutting thicker stock.. Blades glide through the cuts as if going through butter..:)..

[Papercut]

Here's what I'm using for cutting out my circles, and frames.. The new "tip" on adding CA to your initial hole makes a big difference. You can see the lump of beeswax that I use to drag my blade through anytime I'm cutting thicker stock.. Blades glide through the cuts as if going through butter..:)..Beeswax, what a clever little detail! I have used many times in rigging, but never for cutting, I will give this a try, thanks. The build is most excellent. Just received a copy of MM's 5/87 Cena 70 zi Polish Armored Car, thought not as detailed as your's, still a very interesting little vehicle. Won on evil bay. When I researched, found out the flaw of this little tank on wheels, wood chassis! Armor plate carried on a wooden chassis, not too good. I guess as long as no mine went off under you, you were ok? Anyhow am enjoying your postings.

[eatcrow2]

Thank you Papercut...

This is just a small update.. Installed the radiator & hoses, and made up and added the muffler.

[eatcrow2]

A small minor update (seems everything in cardmodeling is a minor update.. at least on my builds) the hardest part of the fenders, was getting the shape of the bend right and cutting and then adding the thin piece that goes on the face of the fenders. Pastel chalks for weathering......
The fender pieces..
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/sun21001.jpg
Assembled...
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03932.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03933.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03934.jpg
Test fitting on the chassis...
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03936.jpg
And a cool photo of a BA-6 found on the web.......
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/BA-6SovietarmouredcarNazisPolandinv.jpg

[cjwalas]

Looking really great, Peter. Do you apply your chalks with a brush, or...? The weathering goes a long way to take the edge off the look of paper.
Chris

[eatcrow2]

Looking really great, Peter. Do you apply your chalks with a brush, or...? The weathering goes a long way to take the edge off the look of paper.
Chris
Thanks Chris.. Yes, I use an old cosmetic brush that I found a while back with a lot of other useful goodies in a medicine cabinet in an old house we were doing some demo work on ( another example of modelers never passing up anything that looks as if it might be of use :)) .. I rub up some chalk on a piece of sandpaper, and then apply it with the brush in certain areas... then I'll use a softer brush and blend it on out from that point. Lot easier to do, then explain. Practicing on something first would be a good idea, till you kind of get the feel of the look you want. I also use it for shading on figures.. On the face of the "Bride of Frankenstein" I used it for all the shading.

[Jim Nunn]

Look-in good, Peter. Those small fender parts can be a real pain.

Jim

[eatcrow2]

Look-in good, Peter. Those small fender parts can be a real pain.

Jim

Thanks Jim... Sure would be nice to see some photos of whatever it is that your working on??

[eatcrow2]

Here;s a quick photo of what I'm using for most of the highlighting & weathering on this model..
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03938.jpg

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

I like the detail and workmanship here very much. I enjoy very complex little things, but I know I have not the patience for such a big project in total!

[eatcrow2]

I like the detail and workmanship here very much. I enjoy very complex little things, but I know I have not the patience for such a big project in total!

Thanks Lala... Believe me, my patience is not that great either with bigger projects, or even smaller ones at times. One of the reasons I have so many models in different stages of work. I find for me, that if I'm getting bored or frustrated with one, then just go on to something else. Lately after looking at the great work being done on the "Black Pearl" & "Revenge", I'm having the itch to get back into working on my Shipyard "Nina".

[Art Deco]

I like your weathering work with the chalks! Every time I see this technique I'm more convinced that chalks are great fit for paper modeling. It's frustrating to me that so many quality card models have been painstakingly designed to have very accurate shapes and dimensions, but are often then wrapped in "coloring book" style graphics of mono-colored fields. The chalk work really brings the model to life, giving it a much more realistic appearance. Great work!

I notice some model railroaders also use chalks in a similar way to weather their equipment. Since they work with harder, smoother materials (plastics and metals), after applying chalk they typically seal it in place with a sprayed-on coat of Dulcoat or something similar.

After you are happy with the chalk application, do you spray the part (or completed model) with some kind of finish? Or do you find that the chalk naturally adheres well to the paper?

Thanks for sharing the build photos!

[eatcrow2]

Question: after you are happy with the chalk application, do you spray the part (or completed model) with some kind of finish? Or do you find that the chalk naturally adheres well to the paper?

Thanks for sharing the build photos!

Thanks Art Deco... The chalk pretty much adheres to the paper. Once you put it on and rub it in, your pretty much stuck with the look you got. To keep it from being smeared to other areas from handling, I'll either give it a light spray with Future at different stages. Any clear fixative would work. At times I've just used a cheap clear hair spray that I've picked up at the market for a couple of $$. The main thing with me, is if I'm trying a new technique and I'm not sure of the results, is to experiment on something else other then a project I've put hours into.

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

For fixing chalks and pastel, I buy Prismacolor Matte Fixative spray can. It is meant for chalk and work on paper, so it will not make the chalks or pastel disappear, or hurt the paper. I had bought this becuase on my little Faerie cut outs I do their detailing and shadowing with color pigment powder almost like makeup.

[eatcrow2]

For fixing chalks and pastel, I buy Prismacolor Matte Fixative spray can. It is meant for chalk and work on paper, so it will not make the chalks or pastel disappear, or hurt the paper. I had bought this becuase on my little Faerie cut outs I do their detailing and shadowing with color pigment powder almost like makeup.

When I use the chalks on my figures, that's what I feel I'm doing "applying makeup".. Maybe when construction work dries up, I can get work at a high end salon..:).. I want to see more Faerie cutouts!!

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

I will make a faerie box just for you! I have the rubbers stamps etc. I need to make some for sale any way. It is good income even if it is not much. And my customers that know me they enjoy that I make it personally. I just do not have any vellum, fancy paper, etc. currently. I had make those I show back in California.

[eatcrow2]

I will make a faerie box just for you! I have the rubbers stamps etc. I need to make some for sale any way. It is good income even if it is not much. And my customers that know me they enjoy that I make it personally. I just do not have any vellum, fancy paper, etc. currently. I had make those I show back in California.

I would very much like one, and have just the place for it..

For myself right now, there is no such thing as "bad income".

[eatcrow2]

Started on the seats last night, and had one of those moments where I'm looking at a part and couldn't figure out what the symbol meant that was on the top of the seat blank.. Looked at it this morning, and it was clear as a bell what they meant. Suppose to round off the edge from the inner line to the bottom... marked in red. Need a brain update I think........

[Art Deco]

Thanks to you both for your advice about finishes! :)

[eatcrow2]

Made up the two seats.. touch of shading, and then onto the floorboard supports.
The blanks that make up the seat & backrest. Coated on the edges with CA, and then sanded to shape.
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/sun31005.jpg


Seats covered, and side supports added.
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/sun31006.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/sun31007.jpg

Mounted onto the floorboard supports..
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/sun31008.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/sun31010.jpg

[batidores]

What a luxury dashboard!! (for an armoured car)
Looks pretty good , great modeller!!!

[redhorse]

Those seats look great!

[Don Boose]

Excellent work!

Don

[Papercut]

Started on the seats last night, and had one of those moments where I'm looking at a part and couldn't figure out what the symbol meant that was on the top of the seat blank.. Looked at it this morning, and it was clear as a bell what they meant. Suppose to round off the edge from the inner line to the bottom... marked in red. Need a brain update I think........ Amen, as far as a brain update, no we just need a way to understand the many symbols used to show w/o words what the designer wants you to do to complete the part. I am working on a WAK kit, every evening I set and look at all diagrams and or pictures to see if I can figure out just how I am to come up with certain parts. Just this weekend did I finally figure out how to make the part and just where it is to go? Not all instruction/plains/diagrams from the differant publishers are the same. Some require much more detective work, albeit my desire for English instructions! And please none take this the wrong way, I am an American, born, raised and still live in the USA, so please do not get mad at me because I do not speak any other language and yes I have tried the translator downloads and that was even worse, the English was so poor I gave up on it. I have worked construction most of my adult life, and as in that trade, I have learned to use my mind and search out the details to get the full picture of what is being asked to construct the building. And I will tell you, w/o details, no building would ever get built!
Maybe someday we will amass enough diagrams to complete a key of all the symbols:eek:. Just my thought on the subject.

[CharlieC]

The diagrams in model instructions have improved a lot over the last few years. Have a look at some of the old MM kits from the 80s - they are almost useless.

I've often thought that there's a case for using computer tech to really fix the lack of international support in instructions. Something like a simple wireframe movie to show how parts should be folded, rolled or otherwise. Never had the time or skills to figure out how this could be done.

Regards,

Charlie

[eatcrow2]

Well I finished off (I think) all the parts that go into the front compartment. As I didn't have any wire the right size to make my rim on the steering wheel I thought I'd try using some thick line that I had that I use for rigging the stays & shrouds on my sail models. I coated a section with CA, then cut a piece a little bigger then needed. Found a hole in my circle template that had the right circumference and formed it inside trimming too fit. Tacked it off, and then when dry I added the center spokes. Painted, and then glued to the steering column. Came out alright, though I think I'll do a little more sanding to smooth out some rough spots. All the gear shifts and such were made from sewing pins bent to shape using the pattern on the plans, and then painted.
Here's my spool of thread..
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03975.jpg

Forming inside the circle template..
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03976.jpg

Shots of everything added.. the steering is not really attached, and I won't do it until I glue the whole unit onto the frame at a later point.
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03978.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03979.jpg

Seeing how it looks resting on the frame...
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03981.jpg

[member_3]

Well, that is pretty darned clever! That cab, chassis and motor are looking mighty fine. I have been able to resist armor and vehicle models for the most part but threads like this make me want to try one (or two or more!)

[Don Boose]

The steering wheel is brilliant, Peter! That cab makes me want to climb in and start driving.

When you say "the steering is not really attached," do you mean that you plan to have the steering wheel connected to and actually able to turn the front wheels of the armored car?

Don

[Wilfried]

Sorry Peter,

I normally not have an eye on vehicles in cardboard; I take a view this night for the first time on your building report - and I've to say, your various techniques bring this russian steel into alive, I've never suspect ....:)
the charme of this model is not the name of the object itself; it goes out from the details ...

With lovely greetings
the Wilfried

[pmbirner]

Peter,
A clever idea to use thread like that. I think of the frustration I've experienced trying to bend a wire into a round circle and getting every shape but round. Also nice touch with the dirt on the floor boards around the clutch and brake pedals.
Phil

[eatcrow2]

The steering wheel is brilliant, Peter! That cab makes me want to climb in and start driving.

When you say "the steering is not really attached," do you mean that you plan to have the steering wheel connected to and actually able to turn the front wheels of the armored car?

Don

Thanks all for the comments..

Don.. No turning on this one. The steering column attaches to a part on the left of the frame. If I was to do that now, I wouldn't be able to handle the body as easily without knocking something askew.
I think a good part of the fun of working on projects like this is seeing the different solutions that others come up with in their own builds.

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

I almost buy this model yesterday just because of your work. But I know I have not the patience for a large model either.

Does this model have crawlers for the back wheels? The car can have crawlers fitted to make a half truck for use in snow and mud.

[CharlieC]

I almost buy this model yesterday just because of your work. But I know I have not the patience for a large model either.

Does this model have crawlers for the back wheels? The car can have crawlers fitted to make a half truck for use in snow and mud.

It does - the model has a set of tracks which are stored at the base of the turret. I guess you could fit them around the rear wheels.

Regards,

Charlie

[eatcrow2]

I almost buy this model yesterday just because of your work. But I know I have not the patience for a large model either.

Does this model have crawlers for the back wheels? The car can have crawlers fitted to make a half truck for use in snow and mud.

Lala.. My patience is not that great either, and is one of the reason I have models in different stages of work everywhere. If I get bored or I'm not sure how to get something to work, then I just go on to something else for the time being. Sometimes working on something else will kick off an idea on how to solve a problem on another model.
Charlie answered the question, but here's a photo showing the crawlers on the side of the turret.
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/eatcrow2/Ba-6%20armoured%20car/DSC03986.jpg

[Keds_Girl_Lala]

Oooo that is very much work. I see what you have done and think ok it must be nearly finish... but then there is all the body-work and the tower to be made yet!

[birder]

Lala your work is good, and I think you could work on something like this (if you wanted to). Peter, I am learning from your build, the weathering tricks are very helpful, and you apply them like a painting. I'm not sure I can build as cleanly as you regardless of how I try..:D (I will try, though)