Air Brush Painting

[paulmackie]

I was thinking to paint the paper model Westerstein and diorama I am building and was wondering what is involved in airbrush painting; or is hand painting better?

What equipment and cost is needed to airbrush paint, and is there any good books for model ship airbrush painting?

My Westerstein and Hamburg harbor is a long term project for me, and I really want to get as much detail in as possible, so am following this post: http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/23277-ts-travestein.html

I'm in no hurry to paint, but want the model to look as realistic as possible and was thinking airbrushing would be more accurate and detailed.

I have never airbrushed before
Thanks for any guidance and comments with this.

[KCStephens]

Air brushing requires a whole new skill set that is only learned after lots and lots of practice. That why I like paper models so much - the painting and finishing takes a back seat to the building - Personally I prefer brush painting any day of the week over airbrushing (but that's just my two cents) I feel I can get equal or better results brush painting over airbrushing - but keep in mind I mostly build military vehicles, not glossy - hi-finished sports cars or airplanes.
If you like, Harbor freight has a very reasonably price airbrush and compressor that's worth every penny to start experimenting with. Good luck and Have fun!

[paper hollywood]

One of the great advantages of paper modeling is that you usually don't have to paint anything-- or you can do it in the computer. I've got one, but I've never really become functional with it. These days the easiest way to learn anything like that is to watch a few YouTube videos. There seem to be thousands on airbrushing. Check this search link:
airbrushing site:www.youtube.com - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?q=airbrushing+site%3Awww.youtube.com&btnG=Search&hl=en&biw=&bih=&gbv=1)

[paper hollywood]

Here's another YT search with some interesting model ship vids:
airbrushing model ship site:www.youtube.com - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?q=airbrushing+model+ship+site%3Awww.youtube .com&btnG=Search&hl=en&biw=&bih=&gbv=1)

[paulmackie]

Thanks for the replies.
Harbor frieght is a great deal, but it looks like they only ship in the States; I am in Canada.
I will check out some of the videos.

I have done some by hand weathering on wood and plastic ship models I have built, and was thinking it would be easier with an airbrush and maybe a better finish on a paper model?

[a380]

i scratch build primarily with card and paper. print in black & white and then build and paint my models. use brushes for small intricate parts and an airbrush for large areas. one thing to be aware of is paint bleed. test your paper/card stock before starting the paint job. i seal all my paper parts with thin ca glue so bleed is not an issue. hope this helps.

[Bluenoser]

Check out your local Princess Auto for an air brush (Calgary has two locations). They start at $15.99 for a basic one and go up from there.

I have the following air brushes from them:
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/Paint-Guns/Airbrush-Kit/8430050.p
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/Paint-Guns/VAPER-Dual-Action-Gravity-Feed-Airbrush/8527491.p

Both are pretty decent and work very nicely.

I haven't air brushed any paper models though.

[airdave]

Sorry, but don't waste money on a cheap airbrush (and cheap equipment).
It just makes it harder to learn properly, and you give up much quicker.
If you are serious about learning to airbrush it will benefit you to invest in
better tools and equipment.

Kevin (KCStephens) said it all!
I have yet to airbrush (or paint) any paper model.
But I can see the benefits of using paint on some Ship models.

where in Canada are you?
I teach airbrushing.

Dave's Designs Airbrush (http://www.airdave.ca)

[Hathaway Veteran]

Another answer is that airbrushing can improve painting significantly over hand brushing especially on paper. Airbrushes were originally developed to apply ink, but they are equally good for water color and acrylics – all which work well on paper.

Airbrushes come essentially in two types: single action and double action. Single action means the air flow only is controlled by depressing the trigger pad on the top. Paint volume adjustment is done separately. These are easy to use tools.

Double action airbrushes, which are used by many artists mean that depressing the trigger pad on top controls both air and paint flow. These require patience and practice. Historically they have had open top paint cups on the side of the nozzle, making for a steady hand to not spill the contents. More recently and depending on brand, these cups come with lids. A relatively new invention for these is a large external trigger grip allowing more control of painting and simplifying manipulation of the trigger tab. The Iwata brand of airbrushes pioneers this. However, these airbrushes tend to be expensive.

Just about any compressor is good, but noise can be an issue so try and look for low cost piston-driven models (Sears or Campbell Hausfeld) although hobby specific models from Badger will also work. Be advised that you may wish to consider a water vapor trap, which sits in-line between the compressor air connection and the airbrush hose. Depending on moisture in the air wherever one is, small nodules of water can pass through the airline through the airbrush and paint making for a mess on the surface of what you are painting.

I am not aware of any specific guides for airbrushing ships. There are numerous books available (do a Google or Amazon search) and also try how-to’s on Fine Scale Modeler (Kalmbach Publications). FSM should be available in hobby shops in Canada.

Airbrush brands to consider are Binks, Badger, Paasche, Iwata, but be advised some of these can be very expensive. Try your local hobby shop, art store and the Internet. Most people starting out try simple to lower cost models to practice using before spending several hundred dollars on more advanced models.

[airdave]

I didn't want to turn this into an airbrush instruction thread
(thats why my first post was compact)
but, sorry...way too much I disagree with in that last post.

Another answer is that airbrushing can improve painting significantly over hand brushing especially on paper.
Not sure DaVinci would have agreed with this...seems to me brush painting does fine on its own.

Airbrushes were originally developed to apply ink, but they are equally good for water color and acrylics – all which work well on paper.
First mechanical airbrushes were widely used in the photo retouching industry applying Inks and gauches.
There are specific airbrushes designed for use with specific types of "paints". Not all are "good" for everything.

Airbrushes come essentially in two types: single action and double action. Single action means the air flow only is controlled by depressing the trigger pad on the top. Paint volume adjustment is done separately. These are easy to use tools.
Single action means the operating device (the trigger) controls one action...usually the air flow.
Double action means the trigger controls two actions...air and paint flow.
Single action airbrushes are not any easier than double action airbrushes, since you have to control both air and paint flow with both.
If anything, I'd say double action triggers simplify the control and operation.

Double action airbrushes, which are used by many artists mean that depressing the trigger pad on top controls both air and paint flow. These require patience and practice. Historically they have had open top paint cups on the side of the nozzle, making for a steady hand to not spill the contents. More recently and depending on brand, these cups come with lids. A relatively new invention for these is a large external trigger grip allowing more control of painting and simplifying manipulation of the trigger tab. The Iwata brand of airbrushes pioneers this. However, these airbrushes tend to be expensive.
Double action airbrushes are used by 99.9% of airbrush users, which includes graphic and fine artists, sculptors, modellers, cake decorators, body painters and tattooists, spray tanners, sign painters and autobody technicians.
Double action airbrushes require no more patience or practice to master than single action.
Paint jars with lids have been around longer than open top paint cups, and paint cups have had lids as long as they have existed. Some of the very first Paasche airbrushes had (and still have) built in reservoirs to receive very small amounts of ink and gauche.
A steady hand is not necessarily required when using open top paint cups, its usually just a case of overfilling your paint cup that causes spills.
Ergonomic designed airbrushes are not that new, and are no less or more complicated to use. Many ergonomic "guns" are intended as smaller capacity versions of large spray guns, designed for large coverage areas that a "regular" airbrush can't handle.

Just about any compressor is good, but noise can be an issue so try and look for low cost piston-driven models (Sears or Campbell Hausfeld) although hobby specific models from Badger will also work.
Piston air compressors are generally noisy. Silent Compressors are generally Diaphragm compressors.
Both types can be expensive and inexpensive depending on their quality and intended applications.

Be advised that you may wish to consider a water vapor trap, which sits in-line between the compressor air connection and the airbrush hose. Depending on moisture in the air wherever one is, small nodules of water can pass through the airline through the airbrush and paint making for a mess on the surface of what you are painting.
Choice of compressor is as important as choosing the right airbrush...not just any compressor will do. CFM is just as important as noise level and portability.
Yes, a good quality Moisture trap is a well considered option if your compressor does not already come with one. But ambient humidity accounts for very little...Compressed Air is what an air compressor produces (air under pressure)...pressure equals temperature...compression and temperature equal condensation. A byproduct of compressed air is liquid (water/moisture). And this is the moisture you are really trying to trap.
Water in your paint flow can be an issue, but its primarily a problem for those using solvent based painting products.

I am not aware of any specific guides for airbrushing ships. There are numerous books available (do a Google or Amazon search) and also try how-to’s on Fine Scale Modeler (Kalmbach Publications). FSM should be available in hobby shops in Canada.
Agreed.

Airbrush brands to consider are Binks, Badger, Paasche, Iwata, but be advised some of these can be very expensive. Try your local hobby shop, art store and the Internet. Most people starting out try simple to lower cost models to practice using before spending several hundred dollars on more advanced models.
And as an instructor, I have dealt with many frustrated airbrushers whos problems arise from low quality inferior tools.
You can buy a cheap harmonica to learn the basics...but a cheap airbrush can affect how well and how quickly you learn the basics. You can spend more time dealing with clogs, spits and sputters than time spent getting better at airbrushing. One of the biggest things to learn is how and why your airbrush isn't working. So an airbrush that just won't spray a consistent line is useless for learning anything.

Badger, Paasche and Iwata are top three airbrush companies producing a wide array of airbrushes and equipment for artists and modellers. their products range in prices from the budget end to the "expensive" end. You get what you pay for, and in that respect, all three of these companies produce affordable but quality products. Iwata has a very affordable line of airbrushes called the Eclipse...which includes about two dozen different versions covering different uses, applications and price ranges.

The difference between an inferior airbrush and one worth buying is about $75-100.
I'd say its money well spent.
Good, brand name Airbrushes also retain their resale value.
So if you fail at airbrushing, you can sell your stuff and usually recover a large portion of your investment, if you invest in better stuff.

...
okay, I'm done bitchin'

[airdave]

Internet Modeller appears to have a Airbrushing How-To section
and I noticed some Ship related painting articles.

Internet Modeler (http://www.internetmodeler.com/scalemodels/painting/index.php)

[jagolden01]

Hmm, interesting points on both fronts.

Both Hathaway and Airdave make good points. It's been well over 20 years since I've used an airbrush. I initially learned on a single action (it was a gift). I'm glad I started there but I quickly outgrew it and moved on the a number of different double-action airbrushes.

As to the compressor, yeah get a good, quiet one. I've used the little noisy clackity-clack ones (WILL drive you out of your mind - or deaf - whichever comes first), larger ones and canned air. An old SCUBA tank with some sort of regulator was popular with friends.

In retrospect, (personally), I think the single action was more useful for broad application of paint and lacked the finesse for fine lines and details. Also, the spatter pattern seemed much more corse than the double action.

With all respect to DaVinci and other past masters, I've spent much time in museums and other places showing fine art. They are called Masters for a reason, but these masters laid on the paint pretty thick, and could go over and over 'till they were satisfied, building up measurable thicknesses of paint, with noticeable brushstrokes, something I think you'd want to avoid with paper models.

On the other hand, Dave is a professional, especially with an airbrush, so his advice/observations are based on real experience.

[jagolden01]

As Dave noted, yes, buy the best quality you can afford. Aside from being able to recover most of your investment (if need be), quality makes a difference in the action of the airbrush and the results you'll achieve.

When I was in school and money was at a premium, I'd go to Utrech's and buy their house brand watercolor paint tubes for $.50 to $1.00 a tube. It worked OK and got the job done.
However, when I started buying Windsor-Newton watercolors, man, there was a big difference. It broke down easier in water, went on much cleaner and smoother and flowed beautifully...gives me goosebumps thinking about it. Might not have improved the composition, but the finish of the pieces was improved.

[airdave]

I don't know what it costs to fill one, but
SCUBA tanks are very good sources of clean dry compressed air
(if you get them refilled by a proper filler).
I remember hearing about people who used them (when I first started airbrushing).

The only concern I would have is the limited tank supply.
For many fine artists and Illustrators, who use the airbrush sparingly in their artwork,
this could be a super silent method of supplying compressed air.

But the way I airbrush, I'd drain the tank pretty fast!

Yeah, I've had these arguments on airbrush forums (about spending money on cheaper equipment)
and I always come back to the same complaints I get from students and novices.
A lot of which could be solved if better tools were used in the first place.

But at the same time, I respect the fact that we (me included) are not made of money,
and I too, am always on the lookout for a good deal or a cheaper alternative.

Sorry for jumping on your post Hathaway.
Didn't mean to attack you personally.

[airdave]

An airbrush sprays almost "dry" paint.
The paint is atomized as it leaves the airbrush and is virtually dry when it reaches the
surface...although you can build up enough paint to create a wet puddling effect.
So I would use an airbrush sparingly on a paper model.

You wil probably be using waterbased paints, which is acceptable, but you could easily
overload an area with paint and create a weakened state that could result in stretching,
tearing or deformation (wrinkling).
If you "paper" is already covered with putty and/or primer this would hardly be a concern.

I could see using the airbrush to add shading, weathering and textural detail in much the same way airbrushes are used in other scale model work.
In that case, spray airbrush watercolours and paints, with minimal reduction (less thinning) and build up layers slowly to avoid "wet" painting.

[jagolden01]

Yeah Dave, I've looked at your work on your website. I can see you having to haul a truckload of SCUBA tanks to a big job and STILL not having enough air!

It's funny (odd), to have this and similar threads on the site about quality of certain things, yet I read again and again about buying the cheapest printers, cardstock and ink, all of which really have a play in the outcome of a model.

Yes, don't think any of us are made of money, but with the time that goes into building a good model, I'd think folks would want to use the best affordable.

[thorst]

I wish I had read a thread like this about 6 years ago when I started with airbrushing. Bought the 20€ "starter" set from Revell to paint a tank model. It was a single action with a gas bottle. It worked horribly and almost destroyed the whole model. It wasn't cheap also, as the gas bottles cost about the same as the whole set, and it needed a lot of paint to spray! Then I decided to wait a bit to save money for a better one. Ended up buying a piston compressor and an "Evolution" double action. Worked better, but somehow I didn't get satisfied with it, either. Cleaning the gun was horrible (at least I remember it so) and the results weren't what I was looking for, too. Then I got an Iwata in a sale for about half of it's original price. It is very easy to clean, takes about 10 minutes. The first results were bad again, but I kept experimenting. Came to the conclusion that I had to use much lower pressure than I started with (ended up using under 1 bar). This gave the biggest improvement yet and I really enjoy it now. I wouldn't want to miss it again! It only takes a while until you get a feeling for it.

And I really second what Dave said, invest some money into a good-quality gun and compressor, and you will save both, money and frustration.

BTW, what you will discover when you start airbrushing and have painted with normal brushes before is that the main work shifts from the actual painting to the preparations before. Mostly masking (for getting hard edges) takes nearly as much time as you would have needed for the whole paintjob with a normal brush. This can be frustrating at the beginning. But it's really worth it!

Thorsten

[airdave]

When you have the option of taking a model to the local Print or Copy shop
and getting better printing, better paper, etc
it doesn't makes sense to invest a ton in printer and supplies.

But I use the cheapest cardstocks and inks, because I discard so much.
I go through a lot of cardstock and ink while repeatedly designing and test building parts
...before I get to the final print and build.

If I was just printing the occasional model to build...I might expect a
better print on better paper...and so I might invest in better stuff.

Having said all that, I admit I do have a average quality printer,
and I have searched out the best quality "cheap" refilled inks,
and I do keep "cheap" paper and "better" paper for various jobs.

[jagolden01]

When you have the option of taking a model to the local Print or Copy shop
and getting better printing, better paper, etc
it doesn't makes sense to invest a ton in printer and supplies.

But I use the cheapest cardstocks and inks, because I discard so much.
I go through a lot of cardstock and ink while repeatedly designing and test building parts
...before I get to the final print and build.

If I was just printing the occasional model to build...I might expect a
better print on better paper...and so I might invest in better stuff.

Having said all that, I admit I do have a average quality printer,
and I have searched out the best quality "cheap" refilled inks,
and I do keep "cheap" paper and "better" paper for various jobs.

To be open, yes, I have different grades of card stock.

I was talking about building a finished model for display.

You, such as the tank development, or other designers/folks designing and doing beta builds, I wouldn't expect to use the highest grade as you work out parts and fit. But if I was building the purchased model, I would only use quality materials on it.
I have yet to go to a copy/print shop to print out a model. Cost-wise it would probably cost the same or more than for me to do it myself.

I might be spoiled as I've haven't had anything smaller than a 13" x 19" printer photo-quality since 1993.

[paulmackie]

My intent would be to weather the paper model, so it looks more realistic in a diorama setting; and add that extra touch of authenticity and interest to the model.

It sounds like most people hand paint, but if using an airbrush, quality equipment and experience would make for a better weathered model.

Are most people weathering by hand?

[Firewing]

Greetings

Any hand painting cant be compared to the SUPERIOR painting done with airbrush. When I bought my FIRST airbrush a council asked to the store owner who had years of experience selling airbrush equipment to art students, graphic design, modelers etc; He told me to buy an Dual action airbrush, told me that since the BEGINNING, my hands to adapt to using the trigger of airbrush, do not waste time with an single action airbrush , I accepted his advice and after three days of practice i had sufficient SKILL to obtain impressive results from the beginning . Friend not hesitate buy a double action airbrush, you get stunning finishes from the start without much effort :)

[Bluenoser]

For new starters to air brushing, the "cheapies" are are nice way to get your feet wet to see if this is going to be your cup of tea without dropping a load of cash. My first choice is to use the brush, but each to his own preference. I have achieved results which have been more than satisfactory for my tastes with the noted air brushes. I use a 3 gallon Campbell/Hausfeld air compressor. Fully charged to a100 psi in the tank, I can usually paint what I want on my model with no noise before the tank is depleted, after that drying time is required anyway at which point 10 minutes of a noisy recharge is necessary.

[paulmackie]

I am following your TS Travestein build, did you hand paint the weathering? If you did, just wondering why you would hand paint and not airbrush?I think the dual action brush for $40 from Princess auto would work for me, but what air compressor do you recommend?My thinking is you would need a compressor with a tank storage, maybe from PAuto or Ctire?Then there are paints, what and where would you get those?I have Reeve Gouashe brush paints from Micheals, can you mix those with water and use in an airbrush, or is there a special type of airbrush paint?

[paulmackie]

I looked at CT and PA and they have compressors from $60 for a small tank and about $100 for a bigger unit;
Powermate 1 Gallon Portable Air Compressor | Princess Auto (http://www.princessauto.com/pal/Electric/Powermate-1-Gallon-Portable-Air-Compressor/8515082.p)
so if I bought the dual air gun and cheapie compressor I could be into airbrushing for about $100 to test it out.

I am fairly artistic and good with a hand brush, just curious about airbrushing and how it woks on paper models. My thinking is the airbrush would be better for finer detail and accuracy, as my eyes and finger dexterity are not as good as they used to be.

[airdave]

I looked at CT and PA and they have compressors from $60 for a small tank and about $100 for a bigger unit;
Powermate 1 Gallon Portable Air Compressor | Princess Auto (http://www.princessauto.com/pal/Electric/Powermate-1-Gallon-Portable-Air-Compressor/8515082.p)
so if I bought the dual air gun and cheapie compressor I could be into airbrushing for about $100 to test it out.


These compressors are great for filling tires or powering low CFM power tools like air nailers.
CFM is too low for operating a paint sprayer of any type, however an airbrush might
run acceptably but only at low pressures, spraying very thin product.
They tend to run frequently since the tank capacity is small, contributing to the low CFM*.

They are very noisy...annoyingly noisy.

You will find this type of compressor a poor choice for airbrushing.
...
[CFM is the amount of air that can be delivered quickly (and constantly). Cubic Feet per Minute]


...
Since an airbrush is a smaller version of a paint spray gun, it is used as such when spraying paint over larger areas of a model.
And in scale modeling, airbrushes are widely used for spraying soft edge paint effects (like camouflages)
and for adding shading, dirt and smoke streaking, and colour gradients.
They are also good for spraying through stencils to create crisp graphics, markings, etc.

The airbrush will not make your vision any less important...in fact, aim becomes more important.

[airdave]

I think the dual action brush for $40 from Princess auto would work for me...Then there are paints, what and where would you get those?I have Reeve Gouashe brush paints from Micheals, can you mix those with water and use in an airbrush, or is there a special type of airbrush paint?

Its hit and miss with these Chinese knockoff airbrushes.
Some are very sloppy and hard to use, whereas others perform acceptably.
They are much better made than they were 10 years ago.
But they are still not as well crafted as the versions they resemble.

How they look from the outside doesn't represent the internal manufacturing quality.
Its important that paint and air passages are crafted, machined, polished and chromed properly for smooth flow of paint and air.

Even if you find one that is not loose and sloppily assembled, it still may suffer from excessive paint and air flow related issues (eg clogging, spitting, and constant interruption)

This is my point...that $40 is better spent towards a basic Iwata.
I would recommend the Eclipse BCS, but the Revolution is a cheaper option:
Iwata Revolution CR4500-BearAir.com (http://www.bearair.com/Iwata-Revolution-CR4500/productinfo/100313/)

...
I'm not a big fan of tankless compressors,
but this type will work well for small work (like model painting):
Scorpion I Compressor-BearAir.com (http://www.bearair.com/Scorpion-I-Compressor/productinfo/120131/)

...
Your local hobby store has waterbased Model paints....most of which will go through the airbrush above without any reduction.
.5mm tip will spray just about any type of paint.

If you have a local art store or craft store, go and check out their "airbrush" paints which generally come in small dispensing bottles in every colour and finish you can imagine.
Stay away from Dollar store craft paints...they are cheaply made, too thick and inconsistent. They also don't thin well.

[Lighter]

Get a real compressor with a tank and regulator. You still should find a small one for under $100 USD.

Go to your art store, not craft store, and get a bottle of Golden or Liquitex "Air Brushing Medium." And a bottle of airbrush cleaner. Follow directions for both. When using water born paint, you can never be too thin, nor clean the airbrush too soon, nor too often.

Be aware that water thinned paint and paper is not a heavenly pair.

[Bluenoser]

I am following your TS Travestein build, did you hand paint the weathering? If you did, just wondering why you would hand paint and not airbrush?

I hand painted the entire model. No original printed colouring was left. I hand painted as I am not all that proficient with the air brush yet. Need to spend time practicing it.