PDA

View Full Version : A7V Tank ModelCard Nr.94


Tim Crowe
05-11-2009, 09:42 AM
A7V Tank ModelCard Nr.94, Scale 1:25

For my next build I shall be attempting the A7V Tank published by ModelCard in 1:25 scale
14164
The A7V was a tank introduced by Germany in 1918, near the end of World War I. One hundred examples were ordered for the spring of 1918, but only 20 were delivered. They saw action from March to October of that year, and were the only tanks produced by Germany in World War I to see operational use.
14165
The ModelCard (later Modelik) version comprises of fourteen pages of parts and instructions. The kit itself does seem fairly detailed, if a little clunky. There is one surviving example of this tank. This has proved to be a valuable source of information, as most of the period photographs are a little on the grainy side.
14166
As a feature of this tank is the plethora of rivets. I am planning to reproduce them. This will probably result in painting the whole of the outside of the model after construction. Also some weathering might be in order as the underside of the model is light grey. Due to the low ground clearance of 20cm. I can’t imagine it stayed that colour for long.

Tim

cjwalas
05-11-2009, 09:49 AM
Looking forward to watching this one grow, Tim. I bought this one and was intent on building it until I saw all the little bits! Not quite ready for that yet.
Best of luck on this, and I completely agree that the abundant presence of rivets is a main attraction!
Chris

Keds_Girl_Lala
05-11-2009, 10:07 AM
How do they do the top of this tank? Actual tank is has large very open iron mesh so you can see the positions in the front and back of the tank.

In Germany is an all new made iron tank that is indestinguishable from the original tank. It was made by factory as a replica.

ct ertz
05-11-2009, 10:31 AM
I built the little 1:72 scale model of this tank and there was plenty of detail options on that, so I guess we are in for a real treat watching a 1:25 scale model take shape! I can not wait to see all those rivets!

Tim Crowe
05-11-2009, 01:01 PM
The grills are just depicted as black areas - I had planned to cut these out and paint the interior black.

Although, an basic interior would not be too difficult - food for thought!

Tim

CharlieC
05-11-2009, 03:39 PM
How do they do the top of this tank? Actual tank is has large very open iron mesh so you can see the positions in the front and back of the tank.

In Germany is an all new made iron tank that is indestinguishable from the original tank. It was made by factory as a replica.

It isn't a mesh on the original - there's a large armoured grating over the rear part of the tank. I have the advantage since the surviving A7V is at the Queensland Museum - about 8km from my place.

The replica was made after a detailed analysis of "Mephisto" - the surviving tank. The A7Vs were hand built rather than mass produced so there were a lot of detail differences between the vehicles

My copy of the Modelik A7V is somewhere between Poland and Oz - it will be interesting to see the differences between the redraw and the original model.

Regards,

Charlie

Keds_Girl_Lala
05-11-2009, 03:55 PM
Yes grate that is what i mean. its not like window mesh.

World War I british tank was used also in the Battle of Berlin against Russian tanks.

CharlieC
05-11-2009, 04:39 PM
There will also be a couple of pl****c modelers interested in this build as well. I've partially perverted a couple of the plastic modelers at AMMS Brisbane - they say that cardmodels often have more detail and are more accurate than the equivalent plastic models. They have been using cardmodels as the templates for scratchbuilds with plastic card. The instruction drawings for cardmodels are very useful for them since they show how assemblies are constructed which are often hard to determine from photos. Both of these guys are WW1 armour modelers - apparently there isn't a good A7V or St Chamond plastic model in 1/35 scale. One of them is attempting a Lebedenko tank based on Steve Marshall's design - the only resin 1/72 kit for this is not very good and costs 135 Euro.

Regards,

Charlie

CharlieC
05-11-2009, 04:46 PM
World War I british tank was used also in the Battle of Berlin against Russian tanks.

That would have survived only minutes against T-34s - the armour on WW1 tanks was only thick enough to stop a rifle bullet. Almost as silly as the Italians using Fiat 3000s (an FT-17 derivative) against Shermans in Sicily - must have annoyed the Sherman crews having to paint over the scratches made on the hulls by the Fiat's machine gun rounds.

Regards,

Charlie

Phil
05-11-2009, 05:15 PM
must have annoyed the Sherman crews having to paint over the scratches made on the hulls by the Fiat's machine gun rounds.


I could just see them swatting the air saying "pesky mosquitoes" lol

shrike
05-11-2009, 05:49 PM
That would have survived only minutes against T-34s - the armour on WW1 tanks was only thick enough to stop a rifle bullet. Almost as silly as the Italians using Fiat 3000s (an FT-17 derivative) against Shermans in Sicily - must have annoyed the Sherman crews having to paint over the scratches made on the hulls by the Fiat's machine gun rounds.

Regards,

Charlie

Classic Asymmetric Warfare tho'. The Fiat, while not much of a tank in face to face combat, was still a protected mobile platform for two machine guns and (sometimes) a 37mm gun. Not much good against a Sherman, but hell on wheels, err... tracks against thin-skinned vehicles and unprotected infantry. Plus it required as much of a diversion of assets - either tanks or artillery- to deal with them as would a 'real' tank.

ct ertz
05-11-2009, 07:08 PM
Well, in the end I guess that you use what you got! At the end of WW2 the Germans were using hand held one shot anti-tank rockets too, a scary prospect. They worked, but one wonders how many of the shooters got away alive after knocking out a single tank? As far as the A7V goes, on flat roads in town it would be a good, if temporary, moving machine gun nest.

B-Manic
05-11-2009, 07:30 PM
There is no such thing as an invulnerable tank.
This used to be a M1 Abrams tank.
The risk is always determined on the battlefield.

Lest we forget.

Tim Crowe
05-23-2009, 12:56 PM
I’ve been busy cutting but don’t seem the have much to show. Glued the formers and anything else that needed taking up to 1mm thickness. I sprayed some card with 3M Spray mount and left them overnight to dry.

14676

The card comes courtesy from work. We have recently moved office and a large box of A3 size photograph envelopes was going to be thrown out. This box now resides in my loft.

Seems I have chosen a particularly dense cardboard. I used a lot of blades to cut out the parts so far. The carcass parts went together well using super-glue to tack the parts together, then finish off with PVA glue. I have added extra card under the track skirting so the interior is hidden from view.

The second picture includes my last tank build as a scale reference, and shows the size of the A7V tank well.

14677

Next stage is to smooth off the exterior, prior to skinning and get to work on the underside.

Tim

Keds_Girl_Lala
05-23-2009, 01:01 PM
I like this model now very much. Your work is very good with the mounting and cutting. Oddly, I have bought the same paint pattern with the skull design, but in a small model.

Royaloakmin
05-23-2009, 07:20 PM
Good luck with it, Tim. Some of the Modelcard models were pretty bad. I haven't seen anything on this one, but now that you started to build it, some one will come out with a nice state of the art version!:)

Tim Crowe
06-12-2009, 10:43 AM
It’s been a while since I posted an update on this model. A heady mixture of working nights and apathy.
15440
Skinning the carcass went well. The outside skin was supplied in one section. This was cut along the panel lines for two reasons. The first made it easier to fit. The second, as I am painting the model, it will show off the plated armour to better effect. This white patches are where it has been given a rub-down with sand-paper
The pile below is my progress so far in making the tracks. The vast majority of these parts require making up to 1mm thickness.
15441
Although the tracks are of simple construction they have involved a lot of cutting. Also I have chosen a very dense card to use. As a consequence, it has taken a long time and plenty of blades to reach this stage. The kit shows card linking each link. I have missed this out, as I plan to have to have the links moveable.
15442
It is a bit of a ‘chicken and egg’ situation in that I have to make the tracks, suspension and wheels all at the same time in order to correct any kit / build errors. Again most of the suspension and wheel parts require making up to 1mm. At least I don’t have to glue the coloured backing paper or bother about the card edge showing.
15444
I am also having great fun trying to figure out which bit goes where. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth I think I have figured it out.
15443
Ok – time to ‘fess up. I have made a complete ‘pigs ear’ of cutting the wheel parts out. They have ended up looking more like 50p pieces. A combination of my cutting skill, and dense card. Then I remembered a set of hollow punches purchased for such an occasion. I shall use these in future.

It will probably be a while before my next post on this kit.

Tim

dansls1
06-12-2009, 10:51 AM
Looks like a lot of work even if it doesn't show up on the model yet. I'm interested in seeing all those bits in the pile go together ;)

redhorse
06-12-2009, 11:10 AM
Ah, the joys of tank tracks!

Papercut
06-12-2009, 08:44 PM
I have found that building these kits turn into a hunt and find, then figure out the where, then the how and when all else fails, look at the instructions.:eek: Watching your build, one of my fav's of armor. Could you have stood your ground as it viberated under foot as this beast lumbered toward your position. And all you had was your issue weapon to fight with while this monster came closer:(.

CharlieC
06-12-2009, 08:54 PM
Provided there was soft ground or shell holes between you and the A7V all you had to do was wait till the thing sank up to the belly in mud or fell into a hole and couldn't get out. There was a good reason that only 20 were built - the A7Vs were fairly useless on the battlefield. The competition between the A7V and Schneider CA1 is for the "worst early tank" award.

Regards,

Charlie

Tim Crowe
07-12-2009, 08:42 AM
It’s been a while since my last post. I have found this model to be quite a challenge. What I thought would be a straight forward build has turned has turned out to be not the case. However, some small progress has been made. Gave up on hollow punches, to make the wheels. They caused the cardboard to warp! Oh well third time lucky. Looking at pictures of the only survivor;

18442

The running edge of the wheels, are far more slim than the model suggests. Consequently I made these rims by wrapping paper strips round a suitable diameter and built up the wheels this way. The original spoked inserts are still used.
18443

The wheel carriages have largely been finished. The models cardboard axles have been discarded in favour of wooden axles. The one bonus with deciding to paint the model is you don’t have to bother with edge colouring. The kit shows the underside and running gear as light grey. I plan to use a nice dark grey. Much of this painting and weathering will have to be started before final assembly of the running gear.

18444

Also decided to scratch-build the suspension springs using garden wire wrapped round dowl. Spend a pleasant afternoon building sixteen of the little blighters, sipping wine and watching the classic war film “Battle of Britain” Only to discover they are too short!

18445

It’s enough to make you weep!

Tim

cjwalas
07-12-2009, 09:28 AM
Tim,
Good to see that you're making progress on this one. I was all excited when I ordered the kit way back when, but when it showed up and I took a good look at it... well, I take it off the stack every once in a while and say "someday". You're a better man than I for tackling this one and you have my fullest support on the build!:rolleyes:
The wheel carriages look great. Please be sure to list any issues you run across for those of us taking notes!
Chris

buffalowings
07-12-2009, 10:19 AM
it's surprising g a box on wheels could be so difficult, keep up the good work

birder
07-12-2009, 10:25 AM
"its enough to make you weep" hey that is a line from Battle of Britain..:D

CharlieC
07-12-2009, 04:57 PM
Good progress on the Holt suspension - modeling this suspension system is always going to fiddly. Once you've mastered the A7V suspension you'd find the Schneider and St Chamond suspension a snap - both used the Holt suspension.

"Box on wheels" really applies to the British Mark IV/V tanks - they didn't bother with suspension - probably thought it would make the tanks too comfortable for the crew.

Regards,

Charlie

Tim Crowe
07-24-2009, 12:39 PM
Work progresses slowly:
I’ve started to assemble the track links. A jig was built to help align the links with treads, and progresses two at a time. These will then have rivets added, painted and then be joined up

19634

The track suspension is very near to completion. Only final detail is to be added before painting.
Tim

cjwalas
07-24-2009, 01:01 PM
Congratulations on pushing forward on this one, Tim. It looks like a real handful. Any chance of getting closer shots on the detail of the carriages and tracks? I'm not sure if I'll ever get around to this one, but seeing you forge ahead like this gives me hope!
Chris

jagolden01
07-24-2009, 01:03 PM
Fine work, Tim. The only kind you do.
Tracks and suspension look wonderful.
I second the call for a couple of detail shots of the suspension trucks.

Tim Crowe
07-24-2009, 01:57 PM
Your wish is my command;

19638

The return roller section will be glued on when the units are attched to the tank. At the moment the road wheels and return rollers have not been added. These are to be painted and weathered separately.

There are also numerous rivets to add.

I was working on site last weekend and took the photo below as inspiration for weathering the tracks and running gear;

19639

Tim

Keds_Girl_Lala
07-30-2009, 11:55 AM
Maybe this inspire you?

The monster tank running on display well a replica...

YouTube - A7V Replica (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8-5HMmgRYo&feature=related)

Tim Crowe
07-30-2009, 12:34 PM
Great footage! - sounds like it was filmed in Blighty.

Having great fun putting rivets on the suspension parts - up to about 400 glued on so far

Tim

Keds_Girl_Lala
07-30-2009, 12:52 PM
I notice on the video where it comes off the trailer the tank it does not back up very well or go over any kind of angle on the ground. It moves very slow also it would be hard to sneak up on some one.

Tim Crowe
07-30-2009, 01:10 PM
The poor thing only had 20cm of ground clearance - bless!

Tim Crowe
08-05-2009, 11:42 AM
The suspension parts are finally complete. I used wood dowel for the return rollers. And glued on card board rivets. Total rivet count: 312
21007
One coat of dunkelgrau later:
21008
They are finally done.
Tim

jagolden01
08-05-2009, 11:47 AM
Beautiful, detailed work, Tim.
Thanks for sharing this build. The A7V is beautiful in it's own beast-like way.

Tim Crowe
09-06-2009, 02:05 AM
Bit of a slow month, card model wise. The only progress on the A7V is riveting on the tracks;

24121

Will paint the tracks next before joining.

This model will now, be taking a back seat to the 1:16 Kubelwagen I have just started on behalf of someone else.

Tim

cjwalas
09-06-2009, 07:49 AM
I'd love to see the Kubelwagon come together, Tim, but please don't give up on this one for too long. This is a fascinating prototype, especially with all it's deficiencies and it's a great one to watch being built!
Chris

Tim Crowe
02-26-2010, 10:30 AM
Resumed work on the A7V:

38396

Starting to fit hatches and hinges. The great thing about painting a model is you don't have to bother hiding white edges.

38395

The photo above shows the main vents for the tank. I used a 2mm dermal punch to cut the rounded ends then cut the slots out, using a scalpel. The results seem quite tidy.

These vents will need a bit of beefing up when they are fitted to the main body.

Tim

KCStephens
02-26-2010, 10:34 AM
Dermal Punch.....? Is this a specialized medical tool? Do they come in different sizes? and where on earth can you get them?
It looks like a very handy tool.

rickstef
02-26-2010, 10:37 AM
Kevin,

Try to use this mantra, Google is my friend

cjwalas
02-26-2010, 10:47 AM
Great to see you back at this one. The vents look really nice. Well done!
Chris

KCStephens
02-26-2010, 10:58 AM
Kevin,

Try to use this mantra, Google is my friend

Thanks or the advice, Rick. Been there, Done that......

All I can say is WOW...!:eek:
I got a lot more than I barganed for with that Google search!
on second thought I think I'll just stick with my present set of hole punches. They work just fine.

Tim Crowe
02-28-2010, 05:46 AM
Been thinking about how best to paint and depict the tracks. I'm trying avoid a 'fresh out of the factory' look with the tank.

I work with tracked machines most weekends and have noticed the tracks do reflect what they have just run over

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww269/croakey123/DCP_5659.jpg

I have looked at various forums to see what other people have done. I started out giving the two practice links an overall coat of brown. Then a rough dry-brushing of black, to show where the mud has work off a bit. Then a final gentle dry-brusing with steel.

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww269/croakey123/A7V023.jpg


http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww269/croakey123/A7V024.jpg

Personally close up I think they look a bit crap. But, hopefully one they are all done and on the tank the overall effect will not be too bad.

Any thoughts would be gratefully received.

Tim

KCStephens
02-28-2010, 07:52 AM
Your tracks look very convincing...Great job. :)

Papercut
02-28-2010, 12:54 PM
Dermal Punch.....? Is this a specialized medical tool? Do they come in different sizes? and where on earth can you get them?
It looks like a very handy tool.Ditto, looks like a very interesting gadget. Looks like you press in the plunger and you punch a hole. And as asked, does it come in different sizes. Oh yea, where are you on this most excellent build of a WW1 German beast. Thanks for the tip on the upper deck vent.:DRick

Tim Crowe
02-28-2010, 01:16 PM
I was watching a hospital program some time ago and they showed a doctor using one to remove a suspect melanoma. Tattoo parlours also use them for piercings.

Note to forum users: As some members have already found some of these site are not for the fainthearted!

They come in a variety of widths from 1mm upwards. And are generally available individually or in packs. I get mine direct from a tattoo trade shop, for 2.50 (Sterling) each.

The red plunger bit is useless as its not man enough to push the card plug out all the way. I resort to using tweezers.

I am planning to use 1mm punch to produce rivets / bolt heads for the tank. Although they will be a bit overscale. Once they are weathered painted, it should not be too bad.

I also use a 2mm one for general corner cutting - which works really well.

Tim

doctormax
02-28-2010, 01:53 PM
I was watching a hospital program some time ago and they showed a doctor using one to remove a suspect melanoma. Tattoo parlours also use them for piercings.

Note to forum users: As some members have already found some of these site are not for the fainthearted!

They come in a variety of widths from 1mm upwards. And are generally available individually or in packs. I get mine direct from a tattoo trade shop, for 2.50 (Sterling) each.

The red plunger bit is useless as its not man enough to push the card plug out all the way. I resort to using tweezers.

I am planning to use 1mm punch to produce rivets / bolt heads for the tank. Although they will be a bit overscale. Once they are weathered painted, it should not be too bad.

I also use a 2mm one for general corner cutting - which works really well.

Tim
A doctor I knew years ago had a set of surgery equipment from the 18th century in his waiting room. in a glass cabinet. When I found out what they were I had nightmares. ;) nice tracks the dirt look is best when you see a clean track?

jagolden01
02-28-2010, 02:55 PM
Tim, tracks look great.

Alcides
02-28-2010, 11:24 PM
Thanks for the trick about the Dermal punch, I've now just to see how is call it in Spanish !!!

Your tracks looks very good and convincing.

Tim Crowe
03-12-2010, 12:40 PM
Finally painted the tracks, all 92 of them. Main coat of brown, quick going over with black, then a final light dry-brushing of silver.

39961

Only thing now is to join the little blighters together.

Been trying out some washes;

39962

The bottom unit is original with the others given a wash of various colours/effects. Don't think it looks too bad. But, can't help feeling it needs more mud.

Any comments gratefully received.

Tim

CharlieC
03-12-2010, 05:36 PM
The A7V had very limited ground clearance so operating them in mud was a good way to get them stuck. The A7V operations around Villers-Bretonneux during the 1918 German offensive were in fairly flat open country which hadn't been churned to slush by artillery fire. I go for a dusty look rather than lots of mud.

There is an image of #506 Mephisto on the ammsbrisbane.com walkaround of the A7V which shows the tank after it was dug out of the shell hole it fell into (AMMS Brisbane (http://www.ammsbrisbane.com/reference/A7V.html)) . The surrounding ground looks like an open field rather than the popular image of WW1 battlefield.

Regards,

Charlie

Tim Crowe
03-15-2010, 10:07 AM
Finally got the tracks complete:

40199

Also got the running gear finished with the addition of the small road wheels and weathering.

Next stage is to mount it all on the tank.

Tim

Tim Crowe
03-16-2010, 03:35 PM
Finished installing the running gear onto the tank body;

40352

40353

None of the suspension or tracks are glued in place. They are only held in place by three cross running dowels. This allows the suspension and tracks to sit straight.

Tim

cjwalas
03-16-2010, 03:45 PM
Wow, Tim, those tracks and suspension are stupendous. I was questioning the amount of work involved for these, but the proof is in the pudding and these look fantastic.
Chris

Tim Crowe
03-25-2010, 01:23 PM
Thought I would share with you the next stage of building the tank; rivets, and lots of them.

41040


I've used the front underside as a test area to see if all this extra work is worth the agro, or not. Each rivet is punched out and glue in place.

41041


Then the little blighters are given a coat of paint. Personally I don't think it looks too bad. I know the rivets should be round head, But I think the overall effect will be okay.

Tim

jagolden01
03-26-2010, 07:54 AM
Masterful work on this, Tim.
When I look at the tracks, I can "feel" the dryness of the rust and the grit it would leave on my hands if touched.

It's enlightening to see the beautiful detail on this model compared to the one I'm building that ws enlarged from PaperPanzers 1/72 model.
No knock to the PaperPanzer, I'm loving it!

Tim Crowe
04-02-2010, 08:10 AM
Thought I would show the latest picture of the tank. Before it gets packed away for the move.

Had a bit of a rivetting frenzy last weekend:

41800

Probably give each rivet a coat of varnish before painting to stop it delaminating.

Tim

Tim Crowe
07-06-2010, 02:43 PM
Just a short update:

50290

Finally managed to fit the main gun and the machine gun ports. Progress has been very slow.

I think i've figured out how to replicate the smaller rivets - time will tell.

Tim

Don Boose
07-06-2010, 03:02 PM
Glad to see work continuing on this monster! Looks great with armament.

Don

Gerald43
07-10-2010, 09:32 AM
Super Built! http://www.kostenlose-smilies.de/smiley.php?bild=T3B0aW1pc211c19TbWlsaWVzL29wdGltaX NtdXNfMDAwNC5naWY= (http://www.KOSTENLOSE-SMILIES.de)
I like the early Tanks :rolleyes:

cjwalas
07-10-2010, 12:33 PM
Yes, glad to see this one getting back on track. It looks like it's going to be a real stunner when you get it painted!
Chris

Tim Crowe
08-30-2010, 04:54 AM
Gave up trying to make my own 1mm rivets and ordered some 0.8mm bolt heads from AvantCard - Paper Models (http://avantcard.biz/paper_models)

I figure by the time they are glued on, painted and weathered they won't look too bad.

Ordered 5 cards worth hopefully should be enough

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww269/croakey123/Tracks.jpg

99 cents for 100 - at that price it's not worth the trouble making them your self.

Glued some on this morning;

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww269/croakey123/100_4954.jpg

I may be a while doing this

Tim

jagolden01
08-30-2010, 06:16 AM
Looking great, Tim. The bolts will look fantastic when painted. Glad to see this back in progress.

cotlet
08-30-2010, 07:26 AM
The rivets look good:). Do you know where the store is located? They also carry variety of metal mesh and something called embossed paper. Good find Tim!

Tim Crowe
08-30-2010, 01:39 PM
The rivets look good:). Do you know where the store is located? They also carry variety of metal mesh and something called embossed paper. Good find Tim!


Letter was posted in Springfield, Montanna. Checked in my diary map, looks to be about 1/2 an inch away from you. Hour travelling tops I reckon.

Tim

rickstef
08-30-2010, 01:50 PM
Letter was posted in Springfield, Montanna. Checked in my diary map, looks to be about 1/2 an inch away from you. Hour travelling tops I reckon.

Tim

We wish we could travel from Brooklyn New York to Montana in an hour

that will probably take 2 days, at least.............

Tim Crowe
09-05-2010, 05:08 AM
Finally the construction phase is done!

All the 0.8mm rivets are in place (just under 500) Hinges glued on. And door handles made out of paper clips and glued in place.

Test painting has shown that card rivets are prone to delaminating. So I have given the model a going over with acrylic matt varnish

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww269/croakey123/100_4963.jpg

Tim

Clashster
09-12-2010, 08:10 AM
Looks awesome! Very nice work!

Tim Crowe
09-17-2010, 11:34 AM
Gents

The major painting has been completed


57479

Now for the fun bit - weathering

Tim

jagolden01
09-17-2010, 12:30 PM
Looks great, Tim. The rivets really make it.

cotlet
09-17-2010, 12:32 PM
Looks very good Tim:)
Do you use an airbrush or paint "by hand"? Are you going to replicate the crosses? Looking forward to seeing the weathering.

Tim Crowe
09-17-2010, 12:41 PM
Looks very good Tim:)
Do you use an airbrush or paint "by hand"? Are you going to replicate the crosses? Looking forward to seeing the weathering.


Painting is by hand, using acrylics. Gave the whole model a coat of matt varnish first.


Will use some model aircraft decals for the crosses.

Tim

cjwalas
09-17-2010, 01:08 PM
Looking great, Tim. The paint sure makes it look solid. Can't wait to see how it looks all weathered up!
Chris

cotlet
09-17-2010, 01:27 PM
I would like to paint my models someday and since I don't plan to buy an airbrush I really would like to know more details about your approach.
Can you tell what kind of paint you're using, do you make it thinner to avoid brushstrokes. Any information will be appreciated, Tim:). Mind you, I've never done it, so please be as specific as you can.
TIA,

Tim Crowe
09-17-2010, 03:02 PM
I use acrylics mainly Revell, but some Vallejo and Tamiya.

These get used straight out of the tin, no thinning. The first coat tends to soak in, thus, requiring a second. If the paint needs thinning due to age I use tap-water. Against advice from local club members, mind you they all spray rather than brush.

You can see brush-stokes, and you would get a better finish with spraying. Brushing seems okay on tanks, though.

It is still a learing experience for me, And I won't be painting all my models.

Tim

Tim Crowe
09-28-2010, 12:38 PM
Just fitted the decals:

58535

First of all I gave the area a coat of Vallejo gloss varnish. This went on really well and not too thick, either.


Bought a load of 1:72 scale German crosses at Brampton. After a bit of fiddly trimming, stuck them on using Micro-set solution.

58536

Once dry a coat of matt varnish will be applied to seal them in.

Tim

cotlet
09-28-2010, 01:00 PM
I like your paper & plastic technique fusion. The decals look very good.
Thanks again for the painting tips. As a matter of fact I got some Vallejo paint and I'm quite impressed with it.
I guess it's time for the final gallery soon, isn't it?

Tim Crowe
09-30-2010, 11:05 AM
Before:

58683

After:

58684

The major weathering is now complete. Gave the model four coats of
Light Dirt, three coats of Mud Brown.

Then finally two coats of Dark Dirt in selected areas. Such as hatches and panels.

I used pigments from (- Promodeller Home (http://www.promodeller.com/)) They went on really well and only need about half-an-hour between applications.

There was a bit of warping on the two grills. But they seem have dried okay.

Next step is minor detailing.

Tim

Keds_Girl_Lala
09-30-2010, 02:16 PM
I had forgot about this. Now the model look very good!

cjwalas
09-30-2010, 06:51 PM
Looking great, Tim. This would photograph nicely outdoors, I bet!
Chris

Tim Crowe
10-11-2010, 01:17 PM
Quick Update.

Scratch built the machine guns. Quite simple, rolled paper round a cock-tail stick. Cardboard end, and paper-clip muzzle. The sight / band is just a strip of paper wrapped round.

59678

Once dry, they were given a coat of matt black. Weathering was a dry brush of steel, to simulate wear and hight-light the detail and edges. Then another dry-brushing of matt earth to tone things down a bit.

59679

The machine guns are then pushed into place, rather than glued.

Next - the exhaust pipes

Tim

Don Boose
10-11-2010, 01:38 PM
Outstanding work on the machine guns. This really is a superb model.

Don

jagolden01
10-11-2010, 02:35 PM
Beautiful, beautiful work, Tim. Machine guns are super.
Interested to see how you handle the exhaust pipes.

Tim Crowe
10-18-2010, 04:58 AM
Exhaust pipes are done!

60236

Tried wood dowel first, it looked rubbish. Then thought about copper wiring, gave up when saw prices of cable.

Had a wonder round our yard at work. Found some galvanised steel wire rod. These are used to support the overhead power cables on the railway.

Put it in a vice, hand bent one end for a gentle curve. Then hammered over the other for a tighter radius. Then cut to length, and tidied up with a file.

60237

Give the pipes a coat of silver, then dulled it down with a dry-brushing of rust-brown. Addedd the top fixing bracket, then glued in place.

More weathering required now.

Tim

jagolden01
10-18-2010, 06:07 AM
Nice job on the exhaust pipes. They look perfect.

John Wagenseil
10-18-2010, 07:33 AM
Crude, brutal, ugly. Just like the original beast.

Don Boose
10-18-2010, 08:40 AM
Ingenious.

Don

Tim Crowe
10-31-2010, 11:50 AM
Finally it's finished! I hope you like the result:

61770

61771

61772

61773

61774

Not a difficult build, just a bit tedious in places. The washes help bring the extra detail out and to tone down the colours

Tim

Don Boose
10-31-2010, 03:07 PM
Outstanding, Tim! You have nailed the appearance. Superb weathering.

Don

lmsjim
10-31-2010, 03:21 PM
Tim you have done a truly beautiful job on this guy. I really like your weathering technique. This guy is in my stable of kits to do in the near future so I am taking a lot of inspiration from your build and a lot of good ideas.

Thanks for sharing you build with us.

Jim

cjwalas
10-31-2010, 04:20 PM
Beautiful work,Tim, as always. The weathering on this one really does make all the difference. The model deserves its own display base,don't you think?
Chris

Art Deco
10-31-2010, 07:49 PM
Very nicely done, congratulations! All that patient riveting work really paid off. I especially enjoyed the comparison photo. Excellent modeling!

Clashster
11-03-2010, 08:08 AM
Beautiful work, Tim! Love the look of it!

cotlet
11-04-2010, 10:56 AM
I'm late to comment because somehow I've missed your post with the final gallery.
Looks very good Tim. Congrats! Nice but subtle weathering and plenty of added details make your model really stands out. It must be a joy to finish your project, especially if one considers the amount of work and time you put into it (it was in somewhat advanced state when I joined the forum!!).
Great work again. Can you tell what are you plans for the next model?

Tim Crowe
11-04-2010, 01:26 PM
Thank you, gents for your kind words. They are very much appreciated.

It's nice to have a new model for next years model shows. First one kicks off early in February.

Plan to have a bit of a rest now and build some simple kits. Probably starting with Schreibers H van.

The next serious build is a choice between: Modeliks Puma and GPMs TKS tankette.

Mind you on a quiet night I can hear GPMs 1:16 scale Panzer III calling to me - 'build me, build me'

Tim