Warhammer 40K Super Chimera

[silveroxide]

I have uploaded the plans for the Chimera in the Sci-Fi downloads. This is the tutorial or build thread for this item. I hope that you will enjoy building it as well as I did in designing it.

The first is the series of the plans. These are somewhat off so it is best to get the file from the download section.

Following are pics of the finished beta product and the semi finished final product.:):):)

[Don Boose]

Neat! To my non-Warhammer eye, it is a cross between a sturmgeschűtz, a BTR-80, and a Korean War-era M-39 armored utility vehicle, and very nice, too!

Don

[silveroxide]

Neat! To my non-Warhammer eye, it is a cross between a sturmgeschűtz, a BTR-80, and a Korean War-era M-39 armored utility vehicle, and very nice, too!

Don

I took my idea from the german and soviet WW-II hunter killers. I am a little behind in designing add ons for my projects, but there is a hunter killerr version in the works for this baby. I have gather enough info and will be working on up-grades in the future.

[silveroxide]

Here is the start point. Print out the plans/schematics on heavy paper. In the U.S. I used 120 lbs. This is about the thickest that a printer can use. my laminations are also heavy poster board. You can also use cereal boxes, shoe box but not corrugated

1. Working on the Hull. I laminated the hull 4 sides. Allow space for the folding of the side walls.

2. This is a tabless kit, that means that you will have to cut strips to make tabs.

3. The troop compartment forward section was trimmed off. Again, laminate

[CharlieC]

Interesting build method. I would have thought you'd have lots of problems with white edges where you've had to cut into the heavy card to get it to bend. A problem I can see is that you are relying on the card to stay flat always - if you aren't building with good quality card there might be a problem with large areas dishing in or bulging out.

Regards,

Charlie

[silveroxide]

I built this a game piece and for heavy usage, that is why it is sturdy enough to carry around. There will be white edges but that is taken care of at the end. I mixed the colors to match the body and then I did a wash over all for effect. If I want a different color than this, say grey, I would then spray my model with automotive grey primer and do the wash thing and detailing at the end. this model is 1/35 scale but for Warhammer table top gaming, you will have to reduce it in your printer properties to 80% or 85%.

[silveroxide]

Continuing with the Hull. There is a slight angle in the drivers box area. When the front of the troop compartment was trimmed off it became a bonus in the build. in the Beta version there was a gap at this juncture. now that part of the bottom hull lapped over to the drivers box and blended in rather well.

Now attach the front of the troop compartment making sure the color part is forward, Laminated also to give rigidity and strength.

Laminate the rear ramp area to give it depth. Fold the hinges and support over on themselves to get a two sided look.

Roll the ramp hinge bar and place it at the bottom of the ramp.

[redhorse]

Dang it. You zealot guys are going to get me back into minis. I just don't have time for all this hobby stuff!!

Looks great silveroxide!

[silveroxide]

Dang it. You zealot guys are going to get me back into minis. I just don't have time for all this hobby stuff!!

Looks great silveroxide!


Just wait until the rest of the guys start posting in the download section, I hope there is enough bandwidth:):):)

[silveroxide]

This a continuation of the hull. Here is the construction of the front compartment. The hatches and front gun mount.

Here is technique for making a round concave hatch. I rub the end of a blunt instrument around the inside edges of the hatch. Place the hatch on a piece of felt or thin rubber pad and keep going around the edges until they start to curl up.

The frontal hatch is made of five pieces of laminated panels except the straps.

On the front cannon mount, cut the barrel hole all the way through to the hull itself.:):):)

See ya next posting.

[CharlieC]

The technique you used on the hatch works even better if the card is wet with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol).You'll probably have to protect the printed surface with spray on acrylic otherwise the alcohol attacks the ink.
If you cut the part oversize by about 5mm then the creases will be on the edge which can be removed when you cut the part down to its final size. I used this on the bulged engine cover and drive sprocket end covers in my KV-2 build.

Regards,

Charlie

[silveroxide]

The technique you used on the hatch works even better if the card is wet with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol).You'll probably have to protect the printed surface with spray on acrylic otherwise the alcohol attacks the ink.
If you cut the part oversize by about 5mm then the creases will be on the edge which can be removed when you cut the part down to its final size. I used this on the bulged engine cover and drive sprocket end covers in my KV-2 build.

Regards,

Charlie


I did that method on another project but I did not protect the color side and it did mess up the part. I also used water but the ink bled out. Epson printers have permanent ink which do not run. I have a cannon and a HP printer as a back-up but the ink runs. Thanks for the info, I will try it out next chance I get.

[silveroxide]

Well I have a week off, now to post a few pics of the Super Chimera in process.

The cannon barrel housing had a slight error. There is a different template in the misc page.

Finished the troop compartment and the top hatch door.

[silveroxide]

I have been slow to update this build thread. It is done in its entirety at THAT other, site if you should wish to venture there. Recently i have been updating the build thread for my Gatling Gun and have just finished my War between the States Cannon. I will be working on the limber for the cannon next. In the meantime here are a few more pics of the Super Chimera build.

[silveroxide]

More pics. This is one of my longest threads and it is almost half way done. As soon as I get this one out of the way, I will start to upload the Gatling Gun.

Here is the set for the hull and skirts.

This is my technique for making the road wheels. In this variation, I did away with the wheels being attached to the hull. The wheels are controlled by a central column which transfer the weight to the center of the road wheels. that central column in turn is attached to the hull and the drive train.

Visualize the tracks running around that central column. (That is not represented in this build since that part is concealed by the skirt).

In the next posting I will show how I make road wheels. That technique is also applicable to modern armor models as well. See ya next time.:):):)

[silveroxide]

More on the Super Chimera. This is the longest process, the making of the wheels. This is a technique I came up with to get a bunch of wheels the same size and less folding. I hate those nasty little tabs.

I use different tools and I do mean tools. I use drill bits sockets small screwdrivers to get cylinders and wheels done.

The wheels are mostly thin strips rolled into wheel shapes. This method can also be used when making modern AFV's and wheels for vehicles. When they are set, you can round the edges with you dremel or sanding block to get a round edge.

In this sequence I used a punch to cut the center of the roundels. I guess my eyes are not too calibrated, but not to worry, at the end, a coat of paint touch-up will take care of the white showing.

The inside strip acts as a stop for the center hub in the wheels. This worked out rather well.

[silveroxide]

More on those wheels. The pics are self explanatory. The inside track can be done with a black color construction paper or you may have to color it in yourself like I did. The inside track should be glued on first to get the curvature right. If you glue the inside to the track pad side, when you fold it around it will bunch up and you may get a gap at the fold.

Each track is laminated to get that raised look. The wheels in this post show how the road wheels are supported centrally from the center post instead of directly to the hull.:):):):)

[silveroxide]

My Super Chimera, the making of the fuel cans. The format is taken from the German jerry cans. I made a small laminated bulkhead at the top and bottom to make the folding easier.

Small thin strips for the straps holding the jerry cans on. Plus the brackets they sit on.

You have the option of scratch building the head lamps or use the triangle shape one in the plans.

Rolled strips for the smoke grenade launchers. you can place these any place that looks feasible. Once I design the turret version they will look better there.

[silveroxide]

These are the final pics of this build. I will finish any add ons on this forum. The future plans call for a cannon kit to make the hunter killer and a turret mounted Las-Cannon for the traditional turret of the GW Chimera.

here is the making of the cable, made from a strip of heavy paper and rolled until it came out like a heavy thread/cable.

The front Glacis gets an extra sheet of armor to cover the gap and conection of the side front skirts.

The last three pics are for the nuts and bolts guys who are used to the heavy metal look of the Games Workshop imperial armor. I used the beta model to illustrate the use of the rivets.

[dansls1]

Wish I'd been paper modelling when I was playing - would have saved me some cash (although my favorite was always the 'nids). ;)

[silveroxide]

I don't play anymore, the rules and codex are confusing at times as well as the points for weapon add-ons and other things. a 1,00 point army can sometimes be just 10 figures but with a bunch of add-ons. You had to bring your lap-top to the tournaments to be able to keep track of your points.

Now I just like to build and paint the miniatures and make dioramas. Case in point (Do not chastise me for the non-paper figures) I always said that a model by itself is just a model, but put it in action and it is poetry in motion.