KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Lunar Rover Racer

[airdave]

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/rover%20finger%20screen.jpg

Lunar Rover Racer

Printed model sheet...65lb plain white cardstock.
Its worth it to spend a little bit more, and buy a good brand, good quality, cardstock.
It prints better, it scores, it folds and shapes better.
Lower quality cardstocks are rougher...more "raggy"...they tend to bleed a little more
resulting in blander colours and less sharp detail.

The Rover is not a difficult model, but its got a lot of parts...and most of those parts are very small.
That makes it a more "advanced" model...
and a model better suited to someone who has some experience with bending and shaping small parts.
If you don't have that experience already...then this will be a fun challenge for you.

I recommend some good magnifying glasses for this one!

As always, I recommend a scalpel style Hobby/Craft Knife with fresh blades at hand
and a metal straight edge (rule) for making precise cuts.

A small pair of fine point scissors also comes in handy.
As do Tweezers, Clamping Tweezers, a Scoring Tool and dowels of various sizes.
Use a good quality papercraft glue.

For those of you that cheat, and enlarge you models,
the Rover model sheet doesn't offer a lot of extra room....sorry LOL
You might be able to enlarge by 5% or so...which is still a considerable upscale...but thats it.


http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%201.jpg
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[Don Boose]

Standing by with model printed out on good quality cardstock, jewelers' tweezers, clamping tweezers, very sharp knife blades, scoring implement, steel straight edge, dowels of various types, moderately good quality glue, and magnifying glasses at the ready.

Don

[airdave]

First job is to score everything that has to be folded.
There is a lot of scoring to do...and its not all marked.

Its a good idea to make yourself a good scoring tool that can score a precise fine line.
If your score lines are too wide, you are going to have a problem on this build.

Not sure why I didn't mark all the score lines on this model sheet
...maybe I thought some folds were obvious?
And, maybe I was trying not to clutter the page? (because of all the small parts, and lack of rooom?)

So, heres a diagram that should help you out.
I know its not the clearest photo, but I think you can make it all out.
Don't worry, I'll post more photos showing score lines.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%202.jpg

...
Once you have your model sheet all scored...lets focus on the main Floor Pan of the Rover.
This is the part we will build first.

As I promised, here(below) is a closer detail of all the fold/score lines (marked in yellow)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%203.jpg

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Yes, all those folding sections are not all the same widths.
So, try to be precise ...score and fold exactly on the lines.

Make sure not to score horizontally across the floor pan (indicated by the red lines).
If you did so, it will weaken the floor too much and your Rover will collapse in the middle.
I recommend you reprint this part and try again, if you scored across it.

Try to understand the chassis part.
You are looking at the underside of the Floor.
Those larger solid gray rectangles in the center area are the underside of the Floor.
We are going to fold the striped side sections over and they will be the top of the Floor.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%203.jpg

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Now...Cut the chassis part out using a sharp kife and metal straight edge.
Its important to cut everything straight, precise and square.

You also need to cut into the floor pan to separate the (front and rear) narrowed sections of the floor.
I've marked these cuts in blue on the next photo.
You can make these cuts before or after you have cut out the entire part.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%204.jpg

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There is an Assembly Diagram available for this model.
You can find it in the KoolWheelz section at www.papermodelforum.com (http://www.papermodelforum.com)

But I'll also use some of the diagrams here to help illustrate the assembly.

In the next few posts, I will show you how to fold and assemble the chassis.
In the next picture, this is what we are going to create by folding the chassis/floor pan into shape.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%205.jpg

[Amccombs3]

Computer problems the last few days, but I'm heading downstairs now to print out, and I should have a good building session tomorrow :)

[Psychohillbilly]

I have the model and assembly sheet printed out. I may have to be building from the assembly sheet since hurricane Matthew is heading straight form me.:eek:

[airdave]

I have the model and assembly sheet printed out. I may have to be building from the assembly sheet since hurricane Matthew is heading straight form me.:eek:

aw cmon...a little wind?
sounds like an excuse to get out of work, to me.

[Vermin_King]

I have the model and assembly sheet printed out. I may have to be building from the assembly sheet since hurricane Matthew is heading straight form me.:eek:


Be safe. Are you in a mandatory evacuation zone?

[elliott]

Judging from the Paper Modelers Map he's smack-dab in the middle of it. Hope he's already left and gone inland.

[Psychohillbilly]

Any excuse to get out of work is a good excuse. I am in a mandatory evacuation zone but I have no where to go so we are just going to hunker down and ride it out. We are as well prepared as one can be. The hardest part will be building the Rover by candle light.

[elliott]

Yeah, although the dripping candle wax should do an excellent job of sealing the Rover sheets before assembly. All the best in riding it out my friend. Done it once, a Cat II - Hawaii, Army, assigned there, literally no place to go. No desire to do that again. Hang tight.

[Wad Cutter]

Dave, what to you consider a good quality paper brand. Maybe this has been one of my main problems. I have been using Neenah. It says it's premium Cardstock. I use 110 lb. 65 lb. and 32 lb. because it's all I can find in the general area I live it. If you can suggest a better brand and a place I can order on line that would be a major help. Thank you. wc

[Don Boose]

Got overwhelmed by yellow lines so I decided to only score each piece as I get to it in the assembly sequence. Will refer back to the diagrams each time.

Cut out the chassis piece and nearby parts (Image 1).

Scored the fold lines (Image 2).

Since Dave posted the assembly image, I wasn't sure if we were supposed to continue, so did the first series of folds (Image 3) and then decided I better wait for more instructions.

I can't find the Koolwheelz section on this page: cutandfold-papermodelforum.com (http://www.papermodelforum.com/), but found the T-6 build in "Builds in Progress," and hope to make use of that soon finally to get the Maryland Air National Guard T-6 built.

Don

[airdave]

Nope...didn't instruct you to fold anything.

If you wasn't sure, then why....
oh never mind.

Good thing you don't work for the Military...oh wait...


I can't find the Koolwheelz section on this page: cutandfold-papermodelforum.com (http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.papermodelforum.com%2F) ,Are you a member at that forum?
You need to be a member to see those forum areas.

Those forum areas are clearly labeled.
Did you need it displayed in a different language Don?

[Vermin_King]

I can't find the Koolwheelz section on this page: cutandfold-papermodelforum.com (http://www.papermodelforum.com/),
Don

I didn't have that one in my favorites, I always go to cutandfold.info - Index (http://cutandfold.info/cutandfoldforum/index.php)

And you have to be logged in to see the Members Section

[Psychohillbilly]

I went ahead and folded and glued the chassis while I still have power. It's a bit tricky hope I got it right. It's raining and blowing pretty hard now. I'm warming up the candle so it will be brighter later. (that is the way it works!!! right?) :rolleyes:

[Don Boose]

All points taken. Have unfolded folded part of Rover. Have registered for the cutandfold forum. Have acquired and printed out Rover Assembly Instructions. Did ten push ups. Standing by for the next step.

Don

[airdave]

Step 2

Fold the chassis like what the Hillbilly did.
See ya tomorrow.

[airdave]

What? You mean I still have to show you how to do this? LOL

...
Okay.
For those of you that want to follow...Don...

Lets start with the outer panels at either end of the floor pan.
Use a straight edge or clamping tweezer like I am doing.
Fold up the first section...these are valley folds.

Repeat for all four panels.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%206.jpg

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Not only do the folds need to be straight and parallel,
but they need to be well folded.
Use a flat tool to burnish the folds...make the edges sharp.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%207.jpg

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Now fold the next three scored lines to make mountain folds, creating a box rail.
This also wraps the first section (with its valley fold) over onto the top side of the floor pan.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%208.jpg

...
This is the effect...creating a box rail and a second floor layer.
Everything should be square...90 degree folds.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%209.jpg

...
This step will be repeated for the four outer panels (front and rear).
But first...
test fit the first panel and get a feel for what is happening on the top side of the floor pan.

At this point, you'll notice how weak the floor pan is across the middle of those sections.
(remember, I said "don't score" across the middle?)
Just to add a bit more strength, I paint some glue across those areas.
Let it dry completely before continuing with the floor pan construction.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2010.jpg

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To help locate and glue the topside floor panels into place, a center line will help.
Hold the floor pan part up to a light, so you can see through it
and find the center gap between those gray panels.
With a pencil, mark a center line front and rear.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2011.jpg

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On the top side of the floor pan, you can now draw a centerline for reference.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2012.jpg

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[airdave]

Now glue down the first floor panel by lining it up with that pencil centerline.
Press it down in place and it will create the box side rail.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2013.jpg

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Repeat this procedure with the front and rear floor sections
lining everything up with that center line.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2014.jpg

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Repeat for the opposite side of the floor pan, butting up the ends of the floor panels at the centerline.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2015.jpg

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Now repeat the procedure for the two center sections.
These are longer and wider, but the assembly is the same.
Start by folding the first outer floor panel section, with a valley fold.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2016.jpg

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Crease the fold well to make it as sharp as possible.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2017.jpg

...
Now fold the other lines, forming the box rails,
and fold over the end sections to create the topside floor panels.
Line them up with that centerline again and glue them in place.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2018.jpg

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Your Floor and Frame should like this (next photo) with six lengths of box side rail
and a double thickness floor (divided into three sections (front A, middle and rearB)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2019.jpg

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[airdave]

Complete the box rail frame, by folding the end rails.
Both front and rear form the same way.

The end rails consist of a three sided box tube
and a fourth side that is longer (matching the overall width of the floor pan).

Fold the first three sides to form the box shape.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2020.jpg

...
Then fold the entire box rail, including the longer strip, into the floor pan.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2021.jpg

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Glue the box rail directly to floor panel A.
At the same time, glue the longer strip to the open ends of the side box rails.

Repeat this procedure at the rear end of the chassis (Panel B).

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2022.jpg

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Your finished chassis (box rail floor pan) should look like this (next photo).
Keep squaring up the box rails as the glue is drying.
Glue cure time varies...
but you can manipulate the parts for quite sometime before the glue sets completely.

Try to make your frame as square and straight as possible.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2023.jpg

...
Heres another shot of the rear end of the frame.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2024.jpg


...

[Don Boose]

Plan to try again this evening.

Don

[airdave]

I've built this thing twice now.
Both times, its not perfectly straight.
Those side tubes are very small and hard to get perfect.
Once all the other stuff is attached, you won't notice it.

[airdave]

Next step...

I think the Suspension is one of the trickiest areas of the build...
the Suspension parts are small and need to be folded and attached correctly.

The wheels and fenders are attached to the chassis using A-frame "control arm" pairs.
The paper model parts combine the upper and lower control arms into one assembly.
We'll refer to the pair of control arms as the "control arms".

Make sure not to mix up the front and rear "control arms".
And remember which side is up. (The glue tab attaches to the underside panel of each control arm assembly)

Each control arm is scored to fold at four lines.
Once again, its important to be precise with your scoring and folding.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2025.jpg

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Note the angled lines (on the model sheet) next to each pair of control arms.
This line is a profile of the chassis/control arm shape, showing you the downward control arm angles.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2026.jpg

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Cut out one of the control arms.
You should use a knife and a straight edge to cut out the part precisely.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2027.jpg

...

Now fold the part into the correct shape and glue the underside panel using the glue tab.
The overall shape is not a box...but more of a parallelogram. (angled box).
This shape is important to create the downward angle of the control arms.
The downward angled control arms will raise the vehicle up, giving it "ground clearance".


http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2028.jpg

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2029.jpg

...

The control arms attach to the chassis at the marked locations.
They just glue flat to the sides of the box rails.
There are also circle locators at the mounting locations...line those up...
to make sure you don't mix up the right and left control arms.

The control arms will hang a little below the box rails...thats okay.
Just flush up the top edges.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2030.jpg

...

Heres a view across the front showing the downward angle of the control arms.
It needs to be even side to side...thats most important.

I think the intended design (as per the line diagram) is a bit excessive.
But the vehicle does need ground clearance.
So, angle those control arms down as much as possible.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2031.jpg

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And, a full view of the chassis...from the topside...with all control arms installed.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2032.jpg

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Another view of the completed chassis from the underside.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2033.jpg

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[Amccombs3]

Yay, I'm caught up. The iPad was very sick, but pulled through the major operation (an evening at the Apple store and several hours of reloading itself) and is now working again. It works out well to have the instructions sitting right there on the workbench next to the project. No pictures tonight, the chassis wants to twist and is spending the night under a weight that clears all the suspension arms. But I'm happy with how it's going so far. Lots of good practice on small parts.

[Vermin_King]

Back when I did this model, this was the set of parts I was most worried about, so I hit them with a little superglue to make them more rigid

[Don Boose]

Suspension parts cut out and shaped (Images 1 and 2). The machinist blocks are sitting on top of my first cut at the chassis in a desperate attempt to unwarp it. Didn't work.

Image 3: My second attempt at a chassis is the one on the right. Not perfect, but somewhat more dress-right-dress than the first one and it pretty much lays flat.

Image 4: Suspension parts attached. The joins are a little rough because I discovered I had glued them on backwards and had to peel them off and re-glue.

Ready for the next step.

Don

[airdave]

I think you guys are worrying a bit too much about how straight
or level your chassis are.

Sure, I'm instructing you to make folds as precise as possible,
and attach those control arms at the correct angle...
but thats only to avoid a ridiculously twisted model.

Lets face it...this is a miniature scale model made from paper.
Its not gonna be that accurate.

Once all the parts are attached, you'll never notice that warped frame.
Just look at mine as proof! lol

[Don Boose]

Point taken, but I am glad I made a second chassis. It was good practice, it came out better, and I feel I have a good start for the rest of the build.

These tutorial builds have really been fun and have improved my building hand skills.

Many thanks for taking all this time to work us through the builds, Dave.

Don

[airdave]

I have to admit...it is a lot of work.
I wasn't looking forward to having to build some of these KoolWheelz models for a second time.

I really have a problem with doing anything twice
...I used to hate getting airbrush jobs that required me to duplicate something.
Like multiple Tee shirts or the second side of a motorcycle gas tank.
For some reason, I put all my effort into the first go, and thats it, I don't want to do it anymore.

But, the model building turned out to be the least of my worries.
Its the taking of so many photos...editing them all...making notes...
creating the copy for the posts...uploading photos...
and then making two sets of posts (at two different forums)
and trying to stay two steps ahead of you all.

It has turned out to be a very time consuming project.

But...don't take my comments the wrong way...I still love the idea of it all.
I like the self promotion and the tutorial aspects.
I like that people are following along and taking part.
I'm glad we started this.

[Wad Cutter]

Super Dave I'm glad as well that you take the time to go over each step and don't mind a question on the way. Thank very much. wc

[Psychohillbilly]

I'm still here :) Power and internet came back on this afternoon. We faired just fine a lot of downed trees though. We did have to eat everything in the fridge. :eek: Since i was outa touch with the world for a few day I completed everything on step 3 from the assembly sheet.

[airdave]

Finishing the Suspension means assembling and attaching the Wheels (and fenders).

There are four wheels and four fenders.
Each fender is made up of two parts.
Front and rear fenders are different size.

The glue tabs (on the fender strips) need to be prescored.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2034.jpg

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I like to cut the tabs first using a sharp Hobby Knife.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2035.jpg

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Then cut out the entire fender strip using a straight edge.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2036.jpg

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[Shown] Four fender strips and four fender interiors ready to assemble.
Edge colour the parts at this point.
Its up to you if you want to colour the reverse side of these parts to hide the plain white card.
Honestly, I didn't bother with colour...the reverse sides are not really visible.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2037.jpg

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Using a dowel or cylindrical object, preshape the fender strips to match the curve shape of the interior parts.
Shape them as closely as possible.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2038.jpg

...

Flatten the parts back out again...and use a straight edge or clamping tweezer...and fold the glue tabs over.
Fold the tabs well...give them a sharp crease.
They need to stay folded on their own.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2039.jpg

...

Use the dowel again, to recurve a fender strip...try not to unfold the glue tabs.
Curve the strip again to match the interior part.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2040.jpg

...

Apply glue to the unfinished side of the interior part,
and attach the matching fender strip.
Probably best to align one end and wrap the part around.
It should curve flush with the interior part and line up with the opposite end.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2041.jpg

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A view from the inside showing the connection of fender strip to fender interior part.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2042.jpg

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Apply pressure to the glue tabs to speed up the gluing process.
You can align the parts this way, by moving the fender at each glue tab - aligning the outside edges.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2043.jpg

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The fender strip should end up flush with the outside edge of the interior part.
The folded tabs actually give a rounded visual effect at the seam.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2044.jpg

...

Repeat the process for all four fenders.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2045.jpg

...

[airdave]

I'm still here :) Power and internet came back on this afternoon. We faired just fine a lot of downed trees though. We did have to eat everything in the fridge. :eek: Since i was outa touch with the world for a few day I completed everything on step 3 from the assembly sheet.

As I explained, the control arms are supposed to angle downwards.
Thats why axles can't be used. (I see some holes where your wheels will attach?)

Your control arms don't appear to have the downward angle needed.
This will just mean your car will sit a bit low.

Can we not jump ahead on installations until I have posted?
I'm not ready to install the A and B parts yet.

[Amccombs3]

Moving ahead on the fenders. Since I am a U.S. fed (eek!), I get today off because it's Columbus Day, so I am putting the time to good use working on my models. Wow, I had an epiphany when I cut all those glue tabs first as instructed, and was rewarded with not having to clean up all those tiny little white triangles -- useful lesson learned. I glued all four fenders in the same session, gluing a few tabs at a time on each one, then moving to the next to give the glue a little time to grab. It all went well, and I may even have time to work on another model today in between other things. BTW, the first picture was taken just after I took the weights off the chassis, and as shown it was perfectly straight. But by the time I took the second picture, it was starting to twist again. I'm assuming that later parts of the assembly will help hold it in a more orthogonal shape.

[airdave]

Anne...nice job on those Fender parts! very clean.

yes, your Chassis is too badly twisted.
I don't know how you got it that badly twisted! LOL

There is nothing else to be attached, that will fix that.
And your Wheels are probably not going to sit flat.

Only thing I can suggest, is live with it
or try to build the chassis again.
(I'm sure you can slice off the Control Arms)

Heres my thinking...
paper model assembly is a balance between being as precise as possible
and being as relaxed as possible.
Does that make sense?

You have to "score on the line", "cut on the line", "fold on the line",
apply glue carefully and attach parts precisely...
but all with a very gentle and relaxed hand.
If you squeeze too tightly, or push too hard, or twist too much, or pull too far...
it all goes wonky (no matter how precise you are).

[SCEtoAUX]

Anne, make a display base with the rover crawling over some Lunar rocks. That should disguise the twist.:)

[Vermin_King]

Anne, make a display base with the rover crawling over some Lunar rocks. That should disguise the twist.:)

I was thinking the same thing

[Wad Cutter]

Dave, where do I find this relaxed hand? wc

PS - What you modelers consider quality paper? In the area I live in(just south of San Francisco) there are to many places for me to walk in to and ask/find the paper I need. So far I have found 32lb, 67lb and 110 paper from Neenah. I have no problem to ordering the paper but where? Thanks again for any input. wc

[Don Boose]

Anne - It's easier the second time. My first one warped because of too much glue, I think, but I am suspicious that you caused your to warp just to make me feel better.

Waddie - I am using 67 pound Neenah Bright White premium cardstock. It is 0.19mm thick and seems to be working out just fine for these builds.

If you want really fine paper, I recommend going to Blick art supply and buying a pad of Borden & Riley #234 Paris Bleedproof paper for pens. Borden & Riley Paris Bleedproof Paper For Pens - BLICK art materials (http://www.dickblick.com/products/borden-and-riley-paris-bleedproof-paper-for-pens/)
It is also about 0.19mm thick. If you buy the 9x12" book of 40 sheets, you can slice 1/2" off the right side and you have something close to A4 paper for models that come in that size. Some printers will accept the 9x12 sheets without modification. It is expensive, but lovely to work with. You can use the Neenah for most models and save the Borden & Riley for special projects.

Don

[Wad Cutter]

Thank you Don, I will look into it. I have the Neenah Bright White premium which I do use from time to time depending what part of the model I'm working on. Most of the time I use 110lb paper from same company. Is using the 110lb alright? I need every tip I can get my hands on. Thank you again. wc

[Amccombs3]

Well, now I have a dilemma. I installed a new router today, with the usual difficulties. Of the eight router-dependent devices I have in the house, 6 are installed correctly, but -- you guessed it -- the wireless printer is not one of them. It appears that I have to go over to the computer store and buy another cable to correct this problem, and although the computer store is not far away, I'm not going to make it over there today. Meaning, although I don't mind making another chassis, I'm going to have to wait a day or two before I can print it. To make things slightly worse, I messed up a part on my other current project and need to print it again as well. (In my defense, the other project has some of the most bizarre design decisions ever -- the seam is on the leading edge of the wing for no conceivable reason.)

As for how this happened, I'm not really sure. I followed the instructions about drawing the centerline and took great care to line everything up. I can only assume that I was a little too -- careful? -- about this operation. I'll see if I can do better on try #2 later on.

[Amccombs3]

Whoops, double-posted (now deleted).

[Amccombs3]

Update -- went to computer store, bought wrong cable, printer still not working. Why would Canon put TWO USB ports with 2 different connector styles on a printer? Needless to say, the obvious one one on the front of the printer wasn't the correct one.

[Lighter]

Why would Canon put TWO USB ports with 2 different connector styles on a printer? Needless to say, the obvious one one on the front of the printer wasn't the correct one.The one on the front is actually Firewire and it is there to support vintage Canon video cameras. Usually, to return WiFi to a Canon printer you have to uninstall the driver and then reinstall as if it was a new printer. I did that a couple times and then went to USB. If I had a real need for WiFi printing I would take the trouble. But, I found that I was only using that printer with the computer which was just eleven inches away.:)

Back on topic -- did you know there wasn't a printer on the Lunar Rover?

[airdave]

67lb Neenah "cardstock" is (if I am correct) COVERstock.

Its smoother and thinner than 65lb cardstock, which is what I use.
(Cardstock is also slightly cheaper...I like Staples brand...they have both 65lb card and 67lb cover))
When designing, I usually plan for .23-.25mm (65lb cardstock + glue) thickness.

I, personally wouldn't use anything heavier/thicker (like 110lb card) for this particular model.



...........
Back on topic -- did you know there wasn't a printer on the Lunar Rover?

LOL I am perplexed by this comment.

[Amccombs3]

Oh happy day -- I got the right cable, for the right socket, and from there resetting the network settings was actually quick and painless, and the instant I finished, the printer happily spit out a fresh copy of the Lunar Rover (it remembered!). So I'm back in action.

On this model I've been using Wausau 67# Exact Vellum Bristol, which is the best stuff I have in stock. Usually I use Staples 67# Cover Stock, and it works fine for me (or I'm not very discriminating).

Thanks for your explanation, Lighter --very helpful. The one on front has a USB symbol (that asymmetric trident thing) and accepts a USB connector, but what do I know? I'm completely ignorant about Firewire. I do as much printing from my iPad as from my desktop, so for my needs a WiFi printer was necessary.

Back to the workbench after dinner :)

[airdave]

Continued...

Now build the four (front and rear) Tires/Wheels.
Parts included are 4 tire treads, 4 Tire inner strips, 4 inside Wheel faces, 4 outside Wheel faces.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2046.jpg

...

As always, use a knife and metal straight edge for the best (straighest) cuts.
Cut out the four Tread parts and four inner strips.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2047.jpg

...

Cut out the Wheel faces using scissors or knife...its up to you.
Just cut them as circular as possible!

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2048.jpg

...

Use a wooden dowel or cylinder to precurve the eight Tread parts.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2049.jpg

...

To assemble a Tire tread...glue one end of the tread strip to the inner strip at the center line.
Try not to flatten out the curved part.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2050.jpg

...

After sufficient time for the glue to dry, roll the inner strip tighter than needed...
wrap the Tread part around until it meets the opposite end, and glue in place.
Goal here, is to get a tight seam of the tread part.
Don't worry about the inner strip just yet.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2051.jpg

...

The inner strip can be glued in place...or just the ends can be glued...its all optional.
If the outer tread strip is cut and joined correctly, the inner strip will fit perfectly,
and the inner strip just adds thickness to attach the wheel faces.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2052.jpg

...

Once the tread parts are attached, slide the hooped parts over a dowel of the correct size.
Allow the glue to cure, while the part is supported in this way.
It will help to impart a circular shape into the parts.
It will make attaching the wheel faces a lot easier!

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2053.jpg

...

[airdave]

Four Tread hoops and eight wheel faces ready for assembly.
The Tread hoops curing before assembly.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2054.jpg

...

To attach the wheel faces apply a thin bead of glue on the edges of the Tread hoops.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2055.jpg

...

Attach a wheel face to the Tread hoops...center it and allow to dry completely.
Keep an eye on the circular shape of the tread hoops and adjust as necessary until the glue grabs.

Don't mix up the wheel faces...try fitting four inside or outside part first.

Then, when one side set of faces is properly secure, attach the opposite sides.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2056.jpg

...

To attach a Fender to each Wheel, just line up the center hubs on the backsides of each wheel
to the hubs on the fenders.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2057.jpg

...

Apply glue to the center of the hub (on the inside of the fender)...
and apply glue around the edges of the glue tabs (to contact with the Tire).

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2058.jpg

...

Press the fender onto the tire making sure the Hubs are aligned.
Also pay attention to the top/bottom of the tires.
The shaded edge of the Tire wall is the bottom of the tire (visually).
Since the Wheels do not rotate on the model, position them correctly for the best visual effect.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2059.jpg

...

[airdave]

While the Fenders/Wheels cure, lets assemble the parts for the center area of the Rover.
The Driver's Console and the Seats.

Remove the necessary parts from the model sheet:
Center Control Console and support tube.
2 Seat bases, 2 Seats and 1 Driver's Harness

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2060.jpg

...

Starting with the seats...
the seats are scored and folded (one valley fold and one mountain fold).

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2061.jpg

...

Glue the seat backs.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2062.jpg

...

Score and fold the seat bases.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2063.jpg

...

Glue the corners of the seat bases...you have two options:
edge glue the side, at the corners.
Since these parts are so small, edge gluing is not very difficult.

Or, cut some small tabs, score and fold them, and glue them in place at each inside corner.
Takes time, but works well.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2064.jpg

...

Once the seats are glued securely...and the seat bases are glued and secure...
mount each base to the bottom of each folded seat.
Just slide to the rear, and glue to the underside of the seat.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2065.jpg

...

[airdave]

For the Driver's Control Console, there are a few folds...
mostly Mou ntain folds, but there are a couple of Valley folds.
Just make sure everything is scored and cut out the parts.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2066.jpg

...

Fold the Console support into a square tube with an underlapping glue tab.

Fold the Consolde sides to create a sharp edge fold.
The three smaller (side) parts are glue tabs.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2067.jpg

...

Glue the Console support tube.

Unfold the side tabs on the Console part and start folding the central folds.
Again, this is to impart folds and shape to the part.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2068.jpg

...

Focus on one side of the Console part, and glue the side tabs in place (up to the center of the part).
In the photo, you can see I started with the three front faces of the console.
(The Console is shown upside down, with the base opening at the top)
Take your time to keep it all square!

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2069.jpg

...

Wait a sufficient amiount of time for the glue to setup properly,
then glue the remaining faces of the Console.
In the photo, the Console is now upright, and you can see I glued the Instrument Panel and remaining two faces.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2070.jpg

...

Now, insert the Support Tube and glue in place underneath the Console.
The black coloured end of the tube illustrates how much is hidden in the Console.
Just edge glue it to the underside the Console...centering it in the opening.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2071.jpg

...

http://cutandfold.info/cutandfoldforum/Themes/default/images/icons/modify_inline.gif

[Lighter]

Thanks for your explanation, Lighter --very helpful. The one on front has a USB symbol (that asymmetric trident thing) and accepts a USB connector, but what do I know?You know your symbols. My printer is older and has Fireware. Your printer is newer - after Canon converted their cameras to USB. Never the less, it is an input for camera to printer, not data from the computer. Moot point now that you've restored WiFi.

Dave; I believe that if you look under the seat on that prototype for your rover you'll find a box of unused USB and Firewire cables. Perhaps a couple VGA cables. After all, we do have to stay firmly on topic, don't we?

[Amccombs3]

No modeling last night, but I had a little time before a meeting tonight to get the chassis remade. I emphasized flatness this time and it's looking much better. I'll be playing catch-up for a little while, but that's OK.

[airdave]

Back to the Fenders and Wheels, its time to attach the four Wheel assemblies.

Each wheel is glued in place to the ends of the downward angled Control Arms.
theres no fancy way to do this.
And axles won't work because of the offset angle of the suspension.
Just apply some glue to the center axle point of the Hub and press to the marked location on the Control Arm.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2072.jpg

...

Try to line up the Wheels and fenders horizontally
and try to keep the wheels as vertical as possible.
Adjust (down) the angle of the Control Arm until it lines up with the wheel.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2073.jpg

...

Tthe Fenders are supposed to be mounted horizontally...or close to it.
Its okay it they are not perfect.
We can call it Racing damage, right?

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2074.jpg

...

Suspend the chassis...allow the glue at the Wheel connection to setup before you put weight on it.
The Wheels should mount vertically or have positive camber*...*spread out at the top.
They should not have negative camber, so adjust the Control Arm angles if necessary.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2075.jpg

...

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/CAMBER.jpg

[airdave]

And...back to the seats again...cut out the Driver's Racing Harness.
The original Moon Rover did not have seat belts
...but NASA (National Aeronautic StockCar Assn.) demands safety equipment for the driver.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2076.jpg

...

Edge colour and fold the top mounting areas.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2077.jpg

...

Glue the top flaps to the driver's Seat.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2078.jpg

...

Fold down, locate and glue the ends of the lap belt to the sides of the seat base.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2079.jpg

...

Push the center of the harness into the seat and then fold down the center strap
and over the front edge of the seat.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2080.jpg

...

Glue the front strap to the seat base.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2081.jpg

...

[airdave]

Fit the right (Passenger) Seat to the vehicle, by gluing it at the marked floor panel area.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2082.jpg

...

Mount and glue the Center Console to the marked location on the floor panels.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2083.jpg

...

Locate and glue the Driver's seat into the left marked location of the floor panel.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2084.jpg

...

Find the Foot Rest parts....already scored...

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2085.jpg

...

Fold and glue into a triangle tube.
Note the one wider side panel (the top/foot rest)
and the marked side (the bottom/mount side).

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2086.jpg

...

Locate and glue the two Foot Rests into place at the marked locations on the floor panels.

And, glue the Driver's Seat into place (at the marked location)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2087.jpg

...

[Wad Cutter]

Dave can you take a heads on photo so I an see how much the negative camber looks like. Thank you very much. wc

[airdave]

I posted a drawing that illustrates it exactly.
It shows the approximate downward angle of the control arms
and it shows the acceptable positions of the wheels.

You're putting too much importance on it.

As I suggested, your wheels should be vertical or close to it.
But if they're not vertical, then Positive Camber is acceptable.
Not Negative Camber.

I don't care how much...
its all for vehicle height and ground clearance.

The wheels glue flat to the ends of the Control arms.
The control arms angle downwards, lifting the vehicle higher than the wheels.
That downward angle also causes a little bit of Positive Camber.

Don't fight it by gluing the wheels at an angle.
Don't allow the control arms to rise.

If the arms are not angled down, then the wheels will get negative camber.
And that means the chassis will sit too low.

[Vermin_King]

Dave, one thing you didn't point out was the directional treads on the tires needing to go the same way.
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2075.jpg

[airdave]

ahh... Good point. Something I forgot all about!

So... all but one of my tires are backwards. LOL
Do as I say, not as I do.

Those who can...do. Those who can't...teach

It matters not what you do, as long as you are the best one doing it.

Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.

Practice makes perfect, but nobody's perfect, so why practice?

[Wad Cutter]

Dave I read and saw your drawings. I just thought if I could see a photo of your model to illustrate the camber head on it would be helpful. That's all. I didn't pay to much attention to the tires and put one on backwards. Easy fix. Thank you Dave for all your help. This is such a great model. wc

[Amccombs3]

Still behind, but progressing steadily. The chassis was attempting to twist again, so I gave it a judicious but firm correction by hand. All the control arms are on now, and all the wheel parts cut out and the hoops glued. I'd love to keep going (and cheering on my favorite baseball team), but tomorrow's a work day and I must get my rest.

[airdave]

Catch up when you can Ann!
In anticipation of the upcoming IPMC...
and because I just want to get this finished...
I will be soldiering ahead.

.................

Lets prepare parts for A area at the front of the chassis.

This is a Fuel Cell mounted on a Base Box.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2088.jpg

...

Fold the Base box and glue the edges.
Edge glue or use some cut and folded tabs...its up to you.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2089.jpg

...

Fold and glue the support brackets for the Fuel Cell.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2090.jpg

...

Once completely dry, cut out the uneeded areas of the Fuel Cell brackets.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2091.jpg

...

Edge glue and mount the Brackets to the Base Box at the marked locations.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2092.jpg

...

The Fuel Cell is a cylinder with end plates.
Also, a small top Fill Cap. (Optional)

You can cut off the joiner tab and glue to the underside of the end of the Fuel Cell Cylinder part
or you can leave it attached, and just make an overlapping connection.
Its your choice.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2093.jpg

...

[airdave]

Pre roll the part using a dowel or cylinder.
The more curved it is, the easier the assembly....so don't be lazy, but take your time.

Also cut out the crcular end plates.
The Fill Cap can be laminated to extra layers for 3D effect.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2094.jpg

...

Don't forget to edge colour your parts!

Overlap and glue the joiner, making the Cylinder Fuel cell.
Attach the end plates.

Attach the Fill Cap.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2095.jpg

...

Glue the finished Fuel Cell in place on the two support brackets.

The Decals (on the Cell and the base box) should face forwards.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2096.jpg


...

Before you fit this assembly to the chassis, you need to think about the Umbrella Antenna.
It is an optional part, but if you are going to include it, you'll need to create a mounting location.

A Support Mast can be fitted and glued in place at the inside corner of the Fuel Cell base box.
The base Box is marked where you should make a hole to locate the Mast.

Using a very sharp object or a drill, you can open a hole to match the thickness of whatever you are
using for your Support Mast. (I used a piece of straightend Paper-Clip wire)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2097.jpg

...

Hole is punched and reamed to the correct size...

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2098.jpg

...

Now locate and glue in place, the entire Fuel cell assembly (at location A on the front floor panel).

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%2099.jpg

...

http://cutandfold.info/cutandfoldforum/Themes/default/images/icons/modify_inline.gif

[Amccombs3]

Whew! I took advantage of some free hours today to do a lot of work on my Lunar Rover Racer. The good news: all four wheels are even and rest on a flat surface. The bad news: something went a little wacky with the camber at the rear, and the right rear has way too much positive camber. I think it might be because I reused the control arm from the first badly twisted model (because I messed up the second one) and it didn't sit quite right. Anyhow, I soldiered on and made seats, harness, console, footrests, and fuel cell. I'm caught up again and overall I'm happy with most of the model. The rest is a learning experience.

[airdave]

Anne, your paper appears to be very coarse and raggy.
Seems a lot more raggy than what I use.
I wonder if this has something to do with the twisting?
What brand/weight/type of paper is this?

[Amccombs3]

Hi Dave, hope you had a great time at the show today. I'm using my best modeling paper, Wausau 67# Exact Vellum Bristol. It does say "semi-smooth finish." Maybe I'd be better off with my Staples 67# cover stock? P.S. I'm not starting over at this point -- I'll just live with the results.

[airdave]

coverstock or cardstock...is a better choice I think.
The paper you have used reminds me of watercolour paper.
Obviously, thats not what it is, but I wonder if the card is
somehow softer, weaker, prone to warping?

[Don Boose]

I was out of the net for most of last week, participating in a strategic war game and locked into Collins Hall during my waking hours, but over the past two days I have been able to catch up.

Image 1: The parts for the next step cut out and assembled.

Image 2: The camber of the wheels seems to be within acceptable limits, but I realize that one main wheel is backwards, and I also glued all the wheels into the fenders inside out. I am going to live with both glitches, but will keep them in mind if I ever try to build another one.

Image 3: As I tried to glue the parts onto the chassis with my fumbly and shaky fingers, the wheels literally came off the project. Here they are being reattached.

Image 4: As I prepared to cut the semicircles out of the fuel tank mounts, I realized that I had not scored and folded them properly (right). Fortunately, I have a second set of parts due to having to have built the chassis twice, so I was able to fabricate new ones (left).

Image 5: I used the 2m punch and my Japanese brass screw punch to make the fuel tank filler cap.

Images 6-9: The work so far. The front view (Image 8) shows that the edges of the model are really rough and my paper seems to be about as rough as Anne’s. I’ll have to think about this. To the naked eye and at normal viewing distance, the Rover doesn’t looks so bad.

Standing by for the next instructions.

Don

[airdave]

LOL Don ...why are your wheels inside out?

[Don Boose]

I would like to know the answer to that, too! I am sensitive to your designing wheels with shadows so that they have a right side up, and was quite aware that the spokes should be facing outwards. Somehow, I got my wires crossed in visualizing the relationship between the fenders, the suspension arms, and the outer face of the wheels and ended up gluing them spokes inward.

The thought occurs to me that I might try printing out on bond paper and laminating the correct outer faces of the wheels to the existing cockamamie ones.

I think it was Alan Wheeler at an IPMC who said that I am a modest man and I have a lot to be modest about. When it comes to paper modeling hand skills and spatial visualization, my modesty is well placed.

Don

[airdave]

The thought occurs to me that I might try printing out on bond paper and laminating the correct outer faces of the wheels to the existing cockamamie ones.
Don

Thats how I might fix it.

[Don Boose]

Socks up, Boss!

Don

[airdave]

Sheesh...I really hope this is a joke for me?
If not...you are about to pull out your hair Don.

Front wheels -back...back wheels - front...?

Lets hope you get it fixed before I post the next steps....
uh oh...nope...you didn't.

[airdave]

While Don is screaming into his porridge...
lets continue....

To the rear of the vehicle...location B...is where the powerplant goes.

I'm going to breeze through the next five steps involving the engine.
There will be one more post tomorrow then.
(I need to move on to some other things this week, so I need to get this done asap)

Prepare the Powerplant parts by pre-scoring.
(I'll show the scoring in detail at each step)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20100.jpg

...

Start with the Planetary Gears box (the base box for the Engine Core itself).

The small box can be cut out and folded into a simple rectangular box.
Edge glue the corners, or use inside folded tabs.

Here, you can see, I have cut extra material, making some folding Glue tabs.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20101.jpg

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Planetary Gears (base box) folded and glued.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20102.jpg

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The main Engine Core can be score for folding after its carefully cut out.
Cut in the sides to release the small folding glue tabs.

Note...the model is missing an extra pair of glue tabs (shown in this photo).
If you think of it, you can add them while cutting out the part.
Or, you can just edge glue or use inside tabs at this location.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20103.jpg

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Start by folding all the glue tabs and sharpening the edge folds.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20104.jpg

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Fold the sides into the correct shape, and then fold the ends to meet.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20105.jpg

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[airdave]

Once glued, attach the Engine Core to the Gear Base box.
Just center and glue.

Next up is the Ion Compressor that mounts to the top of the Engine Core.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20106.jpg

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Score and fold the glue tabs first.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20107.jpg

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Before you fold the end plates, you must shape the side panels to match the shape.
A thin dowel can be used to put a curve into the side panels, near the top, matching the shape of the end plates.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20108.jpg

...

Then fold and glue the end plates to the side.
Make sure the bottom edges are flush...before you fold and glue the base plate.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20109.jpg

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Finished the main part of the Ion Compressor....now prepare the Drive belt and pulleys.
The glue tabs are scored, along with the drive belt.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20110.jpg

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Start by folding the Drive belt down and then fold the glue tabs.
You might want to touch up the folds with some dark colour.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20111.jpg

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Use a dowel to shape the Drive belt around the first pulley.
Glue the belt at the first tab.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20112.jpg

...

Once the drive belt is glued and secured at the first tab,
shape the belt again with the dowel,
and glue at the second tab.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20113.jpg

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[airdave]

Mount the Drive belt assembly to the front of the Ion Compressor
and on top of the Engine Core.

Prepare the two base plates for the Impulse Covers.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20114.jpg

...

The Impulse Covers are small and tricky to assemble.
Take your time and score them carefully.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20115.jpg

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Parts cutout...edge coloured.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20116.jpg

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Start by preforming the shape...use clamping tweezers, or something solid to make the folds precise.
Fold the central part into the same shape as the small end plates.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20117.jpg

...

Once they have the correct shape...and are holding that shape...
you can fold and edge glue the end plates.
Put some extra glue inside to strengthen things.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20118.jpg

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Glue the Covers in place, centered, on each side of the Engine Core.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20119.jpg

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[airdave]

Time for a scoop!...

The upper scoop (Ion Collector) is scored along with the spacer.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20120.jpg

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Ion Collector parts cut out and edge coloured.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20121.jpg

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Fold the spacer for flat layered gluing.

Fold the scoop into a box-like shape...wide at the leading end.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20122.jpg

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Glue the three layers of the Spacer to form a thicker block.

Glue the tab inside the scoop assembly and fold down the back end plate to be glued.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20123.jpg

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Mount the spacer on top of the Ion Compressor and mount the Collector on top of the spacer.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20124.jpg

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[airdave]

This is exhausting!

Now prepare the Evacuator Pipes by scoring the fold lines.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20125.jpg

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Cut along the sides and fold and glue the parts.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20126.jpg

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Carefully cut out the individual Evacuator Pipes connected by the support bracket.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20127.jpg

...

Use a small dowel to curve the pipes at the bracket area.
Make a U shape right at the brackets.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20128.jpg

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Attach the Evacuator Pipes to the sides of the Engine Core, just below the Impulse Covers.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20129.jpg

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The completed powerplant!

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20130.jpg

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Glue the powerplant in place by centering the base box at the B location of the chassis.

Be carefull not to bend the suspension parts when installing parts into the chassis.
I have mine sitting on a support block...not on the wheels...so I don't put any pressure on the suspension.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20131.jpg

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[Don Boose]

Klaatu barada nikto.

[airdave]

No no no no no no no no no...you don't get away that easy!!!!!

Lets hear it.
Lets hear the explanation that gets you in deeper.

Listen...Wrongway Feldman... the dead chicken is calling you out!

http://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.M496e47ff71006ce6eff0dae113380debo2&pid=15.1

For our next model...to make it easier for Don...we might be building the Backup Pickup!

http://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.Mc13b2d2d76e88eaea0f95db7d5e68344o0&pid=15.1

[Don Boose]

Post #72 does not exist.

And, furthermore, I think the next build should be a Curtiss Robin.

[airdave]

Post #72 does not exist.

so, what about the first photo in Post #79?
...is it an illusion too?
LOL

I see someone likes to throw dead pheasants,
but doesn't like to catch them?!

And, furthermore, I think the next build should be a Curtiss Robin.

is that what Wrongway flew?

Are you sure you wouldn't prefer an Isetta?
Its got the big boy wheels up front too!!!

[Don Boose]

Okay. Okay. I do not want to be thought of as a dead pheasant non-catcher. I admit that not only did I put the wheels on inside out, I also got confused about where the little wheels and the big wheels went. But once apprised of my guilt, I thought I did a pretty good job of taking all the wheels off, putting them back on correctly (I think), and catching up with the build. Yay, me!

[Wad Cutter]

I did the same thing and Super Dave caught me too. If that helps. wc

[Don Boose]

Definitely helps. We should form a club, Waddie.

[Wad Cutter]

The Screw Up? wc

[elliott]

Klaatu barada nikto. I'll bite. What does it mean? Google translate choked on it. Is it Klingon?

[airdave]

Klaatu borada nikto is something every child should have learned
either in school or at home.

It is absolutely awful that someone does not know this phrase.
Absolutely awful I say!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A phrase that has been repeated countless times by so many important people.


zgvXtexdgAM

[airdave]

Or...the original source:


sIaxSxEqKtA


ooooooh gives me chills every time!

[elliott]

Yes, I'll admit that my childhood education is sadly lacking in some areas, of which this is obviously one. However, Wikipedia to the rescue! I now understand the background of The Words and the context in which Don used them.

[Vermin_King]

Yes, color me ignorant also. I didn't realize Ash was paying homage to the Day the Earth Stood Still

[airdave]

The Day the Earth Stood Still (1955)

Greatest sci-fi film of its time.
Greatest sci-fi film of all time.

Will the sci-fi fans of today understand why?
Probably not, without a lot of explaining.

But even if you don't get why it is at the top of the heap,
you'll still find it very entertaining to watch.

If you haven't seen it...and you think yourself a Sci-Fi fan...
you must watch it!

No, you may not think about the recent remake.
That has nothing to do with the original!

[Amccombs3]

Quick post -- I've completed everything through Airdave's post #76 and hope to get the powerplant completed tonight if nothing goes too badly pear shaped. Pictures when I get that far.

P.S. There are few people more ignorant of classic films than I am, and even I knew what "Klaatu borata nikto" referred to! Um, perhaps one has to be of "a certain age"?!?

[airdave]

Last thing to do is assemble and install the optional Umbrella Antenna Dish.

Prepare the two paper parts: the mounting tube and the antenna dish.
Score all the folds.

When cutting out the dish part, you can choose to add some extra paper material
to create an extra joiner section/tab (shown in white on the photo)

Or, you can add a joiner to the rear of the dish during assembly.
Or, you can overlap the last section of the dish to assemble...resulting in a slightly narrower umbrella dish.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20132.jpg

...

Here is the umbrella Dish folded and ready for assembly.
For this build I just overlapped the last section of the dish.

On an earlier build, I added an additonal overlapping tab when I cut out the part.

Also...roll the mounting tube.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20133.jpg

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Grab your wire material for the supporting mast.
I used an unfolded Paperclip.
Roll and glue the mounting tube using this wire, so it fits correctly.

Cut the wire to the desired length.
A top folded section for the dish mounting, and a lower mast section.
Cut the mast section longer to raise the mast to any desired height.

Angle bend the wire as shown.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20134.jpg

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Insert the mounting tube into the dish antenna and glue it in place.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20135.jpg

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Insert and glue the mast into the predrilled hole in the forward base box.
Angle it in whatever direction you like.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20136.jpg

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Slip the dish and mounting tube onto the mast wire.
It won't fall past the bend in the wire, so it doesn't have to be glued.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20137.jpg

...

For this build I made my wire mast a bit shorter than my first build attempt.
I also experimented with colouring the back side of the Antenna Dish part.

To be honest, I think the white paper backside looks better.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/cutandfold/KoolWheelz/LRover%20build/lrb%20138.jpg

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[Don Boose]

I think. Unless Dave finds any more egregious errors.

I had previously printed out a copy on bond paper. Unfortunately, the furshlugginer printer printed an acid green bar right across the dish antenna. Nonetheless, I cut it out and pasted it to the back of the cardstock dish. Used florist wire for the antenna post. Green, but doesn't look too bad to my eye.

The final two images show the Rover on the base that I will use at the IPMC later this month, the theme being "Space, Real and Imagined."

Don

[Amccombs3]

Wow Don, that base looks great! I'm looking forward to seeing it soon.

I have the powerplant complete but not mounted. I also made a rather firm adjustment to the wonky wheel, and to my surprise it seems to have worked and all four still sit level. So if all goes well, I'll be wrapping this model up tomorrow.

[mbauer]

All points taken.

Did ten push ups.
Don

What?!

Slacker, that might be good enough for the modernized 70's permanent press fatigue days, but the ol'brown shoe did at least 25....

Mike

[Don Boose]

Mike - You are right that ten aren't many fitness pushups (in the 1970s and today 40-75 pushups were expected of men in their early 20s), but the standard number of punishment pushups was ten during my early years in the Army. The only time I actually DID punishment pushups was in Jump School at Fort Benning in 1962 and I can assure you that I heard "Drop and give me ten, Lieutenant!" many many times, so it seemed an entirely appropriate quip in reference to my egregious error.

Incidentally, the Brown Shoe Army ended in 1958, when the Army switched from brown to black shoes and boots.

Now, back to the Lunar Rover!

Don

[mbauer]

Wow, you all sure are having fun with this build!

Great looking model Don! You must be in pretty good shape by the end of this one, even at 10 pushups per post.....

Just read through the posts start to finish. Once again Dave does a great job with photos and explantions.

Will have to build this one when I have some time.

Thank you for sharing the build thread everyone! Great reading and viewing of photos.

Mike

[mbauer]

Mike - You are right that ten aren't many fitness pushups (in the 1970s and today 40-75 pushups were expected of men in their early 20s), but the standard number of punishment pushups was ten during my early years in the Army. The only time I actually DID punishment pushups was in Jump School at Fort Benning in 1962 and I can assure you that I heard "Drop and give me ten, Lieutenant!" many many times, so it seemed an entirely appropriate quip in reference to my egregious error.

Incidentally, the Brown Shoe Army ended in 1958, when the Army switched from brown to black shoes and boots.

Now, back to the Lunar Rover!

Don

Yep, Jump school back in '78 sounds the same. Except instead of Lieutenant, it was Private.... How many times did you end up in the "Gig" squad?

BTW the base and photo looks great, from the one angle it looks like he is stepping on the rover for balance.


Mike

[Amccombs3]

With the antenna mounted, I'm calling it basically finished. Contrary to our esteemed instructor's statement, this dish will slide down the wire quite happily, so I'm probably going to have to add a bit of glue. The second picture should show that the rear wheels now sit reasonably close to vertical. Since I had printed two copies due to earlier errors, I glued my two copies back-to-back. I felt it would work better if I didn't score it, so it's a simple cone. This was a fun model and I enjoyed the challenge of working with the smaller parts. Thanks again, Dave, for guiding us through this build.

[airdave]

Anne, looks good.

As I said, in my instructions, if you roll the mounting tube on the wire you are using
...so its center hole is the same size as the wire you are using...
and, your wire is bent at an angle (not curved),
then it can not slip past the bend.

In Anne's photo, it appears as though the mounting tube may be rolled much larger than the wire
...which would explain why it is slipping past the bend.

But...nothing a little glue can't fix!

...
So, how many Rovers will be at the IPMC?
LOL
More than what the USA left on the Moon probably! haha

(3, for those of you that didn't know.)

[Amccombs3]

Whoops, Dave is absolutely right. I overlooked the instruction to roll the tube using the wire as a form. My fault entirely. And I'm lloking forward to seeing the Rover fleet at the Convention as well :)

[Wad Cutter]

Don your Moon Buggy came out great and the display is very nice. I love the photo of the Moon and the crew coming down the ladder. Very nice. Where did you find that photo? wc

[Don Boose]

Waddie -

Thanks for the nice words. I downloaded it from here: http://www.andykershaw.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/11buzz-aldrin-apollo-11.jpg

Dave has since sent me a better copy that I will use in the final version. Incidentally, the high tech element of this build is that the background image is fastened to the base with a pair of rare earth magnets, so I can fold it all up for transport to Sterling. I also have Dave's Kool Wheels Galileo shuttlecraft from Star Trek under construction with a similar base emulating a Mars surface. They may be my only two "Space: Real and Imagined: displays at the IPMC next week, although Lil hopes to have a model of Musicman's lion space suit based on the Canon lion model with in image of the face of our cat to display as "Tora-chan on Mars." We'll see.

Don

[Wad Cutter]

Thank you Don, I'll be waiting and watching for that. Sounds like you'll be busy. I have two different versions of the Shuttle. I like Dave's more so I did made it. wc

[Wad Cutter]

Don I have another question about your base. Is it made of wood. At least it looks like wood. Is there any way the base could be made from paper with wood grain? Also, the graphics you used under the model, can you till me where you got that also. Much thanks Don. Models always look better with a base and if there was a way to make them using paper as I don't have access to wood and tools the make it would be a lot easier if it were made of paper. Much thanks for your help. wc

[THE DC]

This was a great build thread; detailed, specific, and plenty of pics and suggestions.

Thanks much for sharing this experience.

[Don Boose]

Waddie -

Sorry for the delay in responding, just got back from watching Don Giovanni.

The base is card. I am using bases that rockpaperscissors kindly shared with me. Send me an email via PM and I will send you the patterns. I got the moon surface by Googling "surface of the moon" and browsing through the images until I found what I wanted.

As mentioned, I am currently building Dave'sKool Wheelz Galileo shuttlecraft, which will be flying above a Martian surface.

Cheers, Don

[Psychohillbilly]

Finally finish! I left the seat belt off(Just my personal taste) Its parked on a 4 million year old oyster shell I found in the southern Mohave desert.

[Don Boose]

Psychohillbilly - Nice clean work. I like the ancient oyster shell base. Don

[Don Boose]

Not directly related to the Lunar Rover, but I'd like to show you the other "Space: Real and Imagined" model that I will display this Saturday at the International Paper Modelers' Convention in Sterling, Virginia, USA. It is Dave's Koolwheelz Galileo shuttlecraft. Dave had to talk me through parts of this build, for which, much thanks.

Don

[Wad Cutter]

The wooden base really sets your model off doesn't it? Very nice build Don. And thanks again for all your help Don. I can't wait to use one of the bases on one of my models. wc