How to Make Aluminum Clad Card Stock

[Gil]

How to Make Aluminum Clad Card Stock (Part I)

By Gil Russell
Edited by Leif Ohlsson

7 August 2009

I wonder how many times modelers have experimented with ordinary aluminum foil in attempts to recreate a natural aluminum finish on their models. One method, developed for plastic models, applies aluminum foil in a manner similar to the method used for gold leaf. The underlying surface has to include all the desired detail before the foil is applied. Thinking about applying this to card stock took me around the block several times resulting in several shattered preconceived notions along the way. The strange part of this story is that the solution shown here is non toxic and uses commonly available materials.

A large variety of glues capable of bonding aluminum to paper were tried. One theory (a mishap of preconceived notions) was that to maintain flat unwrinkled paper a non-water based glue would be required. The problem with non-water based glues is that they generally require a fairly aromatic thinning agent. A goal was set early on to minimize the exposure to volatile organic solvents (VOC’s). The VOC glue tests produced some interesting results but had to be eliminated from consideration due to their toxicity (3M spray adhesive produced an easy to layup assembly but failed to yield a smooth mirror like surface).

Smoothing Aluminum Foil
The first small breakthrough was discovering a method to flatten the aluminum foil in preparation for bonding it to the card stock. The trick is to mist a pane of glass with a water spray before carefully applying and smoothing out a sheet of aluminum foil onto the glass (shiny side down). The water adheres the foil tightly to the glass pane and in effect clamps it to the glass.


http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Wetted-Glass.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)

Figure 1 Water Misted Glass Pane



Do not use the cutting edge on the foil box. It only deforms the foil making flattening more difficult. Use scissors instead.

Aluminum foil thicknesses vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and have a direct affect on the use as described here. Reynolds Wrap Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil is used exclusively in this tutorial. I found it to be consistently thicker than other brands. Use heavy duty or extra heavy duty foil for models requiring moderate compound curves.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Alu-Rollout.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)

Figure 2 Laying Out the Aluminum Foil



Use a squeegee to smooth the aluminum to a perfectly flat sheet on top of the glass. Water sprayed on the aluminum surface aids the squeegee smoothing action.


http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Squeegee-Down.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)

Figure 3 Smoothing the Foil



http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Smoothed-Alu.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)

Figure 4 Smoothed Aluminum Foil



Preparing the Aluminum for Bonding
The strength of the paper to aluminum bond depends to a great extent on the aluminum foil’s surface condition. The foil has a minute amount of residual manufacturing lubricant left on its surface (yes it’s edible). It will interfere with the bond if it’s not removed.

Use a 3M style scrub pad with window cleaner sprayed on the aluminum. Scrub the aluminum surface using a circular motion to scour the entire surface well.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Scrubbing.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)

Figure 5 Cleaning the Aluminum



http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Sponging-Clean.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)

Figure 6 Removing Cleaning Residue



Clean the scrubbed aluminum surface with an absorbent sponge. Mist the surface with a slight amount of water and wipe with a paper towel. Spread a small amount of either isopropyl or ethanol alcohol on the surface. Finish by drying the surface with a paper towel.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Final-Cleaning.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)


Figure 7 Final Cleaning with Alcohol



http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Cleaned-Alu.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)

Figure 8 Aluminum Ready for Bonding



(Continued in Part II)

[Gil]

How to Make Aluminum Clad Card Stock (Part II)

By Gil Russell
Edited by Leif Ohlsson

7 August 2009

Adhesive
After rejecting VOC based adhesives water based glues were tried. PVA based (Polyvinyl Acetate) white glue and Carpenter’s (Aliphatic Resin) yellow glue did not achieve a good aluminum bond (It will work in a pinch but leaves unbounded voids). An ideal bond fails a peel test paper first. Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue was tried next and it surprisingly passed the peel test. After several practice runs I became proficient in producing nearly perfect aluminum clad panels every time.

Bonding the Paper to the Aluminum
Using a fairly fresh tube of Tacky Glue spread a pattern approximately the size of the paper that’s to be glued to the aluminum.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Applying-Glue.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)


Figure 9 Applying Glue Pattern to the Aluminum



Use the squeegee to spread the glue evenly over the surface. A thinner film is desirable as it helps to prevent paper curl. Wipe excess glue off the edge of the squeegee to achieve a thinner layer.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Spreading-the-Glue.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)


Figure 10 Spreading the Glue into a Film



http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Ready-for-Bonding.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)

Figure 11 Aluminum Ready for Bonding



Carefully place the paper card stock into the middle of the glue area.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Placing-the-Card-Stock.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)



Figure 12 Placing the Paper



Gently burnish the paper with the cleaned squeegee. Burnish the edges with a small burnishing tool.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Burnishing-the-Paper-Down.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)

Figure 13 Burnishing the Paper



http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Edge-Burnishing.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)

Figure 14 Burnishing the Edges



Allow the lay-up to dry. This will take anywhere from one to four hours depending on humidity, type of paper and the depth of the applied glue film. I generally allow four to six hours to insure that the glue has set and will not debond when the paper is cut out of the foil. With a sharp razor blade carefully cut around the edges of the paper stock. The aluminum clad paper will spring into a convex section as shown.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Cutting-Out.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)


Figure 15 Cutting the Paper Out of the Foil



http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Sheet-Spring.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)

Figure 16 Sheet Curl



Remove the curl in the sheet by placing a towel or newspaper on top of the glass pane. I use a cardboard mailing tube to roll the curl out. A rolling pin also works but make sure to protect the aluminum surface with a newspaper or towel to prevent scratching it.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Rolling-the-Stock.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)


Figure 17 Rolling the Curl Out of the Sheet


Resulting Aluminum Clad Sheet:

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Finished-Sheet.jpg (http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)

Figure 18 Finished Aluminum Clad Card Stock Sheet



Epilogue
Legal size card stock was used in this tutorial. I recommend practicing with smaller sizes till you’re familiar with the process before moving on to larger pieces.

Most any weight paper can be used as long as the surface is fairly smooth. Rougher surface textures require a thicker glue film application with longer drying times. Sheets of tracing vellum make easy to apply overlay panels for models.

I regularly put the aluminum clad card stock through an inkjet printer to print part patterns on the paper backside. Remember to mirror reverse the pattern before printing.

A piece of adhesive backed shelf paper applied to the aluminum surface will protect the surface during the model building process.

[Nazgul]

Great tutorial! Thanks!

[Texman]

Very well presented Gil. This will work wonders for those who work in the larger scales,
and I would love to try it in my scale, but fear the thickness and stiffness just would not conform in the small scales.

Gil, you are truly a pioneer and a serious asset to the hobby.

[jagolden01]

Gil,

Thanks you soooo much. Great tutorial.
Thanks, also, for the hard work of experimenting.

[silver47]

absolutely incredible work. you have refined the process so even an boob like myself can do this many thanks gary

[Werner Smuts]

Thanks, this is really nice. Thanks for showing us.

WIFE...!!! wheres the foil......!!!??

[Bomarc]

Outstanding tutorial, thank you Gil (and Leif for the fine presentation).

In my travels searching for Reynolds "Heavy Duty" (easily found in most grocery stores) and "Extra Heavy Duty" (scarce) aluminum foils, a visit to the Reynolds website (link (http://www.reynoldspkg.com/reynoldskitchens/en/product.asp?cat_id=1337&prod_id=1789)) reveals an apparent re-branding of their foils. I wonder if the now named "Heavy Strength" and "Super Strength" foils are equivalent in weights to Heavy Duty and Extra Heavy Duty foils respectively?

Also, I found (and ordered) a roll of 0.003" inch thick aluminum foil from McMaster-Carr. It's 6" and and comes in a 50' roll (link (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3684/=330h9p)). I believe Reynolds "Extra Heavy Duty" foil is approximately this thickness.

Truly great work work Gil, thanks again!

Mike

[scon10]

Great idea and good tutorial!
Now for the tacky bit... :p
What are the European equivalents for the tacky glue you use and for the thick Reynolds alu foil? Anybody an idea??
Regards.

[airdave]

excellent tutorial
(I run another forum that offers tutorials, and I really value a well explained and well detailed tutorial!)


can you show us some uses for the "alumi-card"
(patent pending...if you use the name, I want a cut!)


I'm just curious as to how well it cuts and forms?
How small of a part have you created with the "alumi-card"?
and what about printing on it?...will it even go through a printer?

[Don Boose]

Many thanks for this outstanding tutorial, Gil. It is a model of clarity and provides a techniques with wide applicability.

And thanks to Leif for assisting with the editing (another person who produces beautifully clear and well-illustrated tutorials and who is on the cutting edge of the paper modeling art, craft, and science).

Don

[Leif Ohlsson]

Congratulations Gil, on a most extraordinary readable & doable tutorial. All the more so, since I know how long you've been down this road. And now you're there. It is a good moment indeed.

Leif

And just to set the record straight. What you see is what came from Gil's pen & layout, give or take some unsubstantial but congratulatory comments. So the "edited by" by-line is totally undeserved in this case. Thanks for the opportunity, though, to play a supportive part of this effort!

[lepercan]

Wonderful job! Well structured and very clear.
Lep

[Padre]

Thats GREAT info on how to do it!! Thanks. Do you have a model with this in use ?

[davelant]

Aleene's Tacky glue is PVA-based, right?

[jagolden01]

Aleene's Tacky glue is PVA-based, right?

Have to admit I was thinking that myself.

[B-Manic]

Wonderful Gil - a very well illustrated and concise tutorial. Now what to build, hmmm?

[elliott]

What a great tutorial! If all tutorials were presented this way we'd all be experts! Thanks to Gil and Leif for a fine job!

[birder]

Thank you Gil, and for your continued search for answers!! I have a use or two in mind already.

[Gil]

Thanks for all the positive comments.

For a glimpse of the future from past excursions I present an earlier attempt at a Nieuport cowl. It's made from 5 mil tooling foil.

+Gil
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/../gallery/data/500/medium/Test-Cowl-r3W.jpg (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:;)

[whulsey]

Excellent presentation.

[jacberk]

Gil

Excellent, simply excellent, & your work and testing is very much appreciated!

BTW, any thoughts on using Aleene's Clear Gel?

Again thanx.

Jack

[Gil]

Hi Jack,

Thanks for the positive comments.

No, I haven't tried the clear gel. One of the things I've learned is to use the lowest common denominator approach on materials. This provides for high availability and keeps costs low.

Better yet, if you have some on hand, why not try it out on a small piece of card stock and report back the results?

+Gil

[Art Deco]

From start to finish - conceptualization, research, experimentation, documentation, photography, presentation ... fantastic work! Bravo!

[kd4uwk]

Just spented 2hr reading all of this post before reading i sent something about foil tape wish I had read this first this will help Me with The Locomotives I am working on Thank You I see Lots of time that You have Put into helping others!! Thanks again
kd4uwk-Paul

[kenlwest]

Gil,

One of the best tutorials I have seen! Thanks you.

I was wondering about how to create panel lines since the alumi-card is printed on the paper side. My thought is to print the panel lines on the paper, cut out the part, then lightly scribe the lines with an empty ball point pen. This will produce male panel line. Then turn the card foil-side up, and rescribe the lines to make them recessed. Rivets would be AWESOME!

Thoughts anyone??

Ken

[WVA]

Thanks for your time and sharing with the rest of us wantabes that hope we can come somewhere close to your results...one of these days!

[Gil]

Thanks WVA, you should try it on a small piece. It makes great old style bumpers amongst other things. Ken, go here:

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/tips-tricks/3522-natural-aluminum-finish-8.html

+Gil

[Mark Petersen]

Gil, at the beginning you mentioned trying thinned solvent based glues. Out of curiousity just what adhesives/solvent combos did you try. When I get the chance I am thinking about seeing if Beacon's cuts well with either acetone or denatured alcohol. And yes I do have concerns about what the solvent will do to any printing.

[Gil]

Hi Mark,

A general rule of thumb that I use is the smell test. If it smells aromatic (like gasoline) then the possible thinning agents are:

o MEK
o Toluene
o Acetone
o Naptha

If it smells like an injection prep (like isopropyl alcohol) the the possible thinning agents are:

o isopropyl alcohol (91%)
o denatured grain alcohol (91%)

Everything else thins with water (for the most part).

Mixing up a small sample will quickly indicate whether its suitability as a thinning agent or not. Be sure to work in a well ventilated areas with appropriate breathing protection.

One of the more memorable was thinning GOOP! with toluene. The mixture is great for sealing nylon fabric later to be sewn into waterproof flotation devices and other such inflatables.

+Gil

[cmdr199212]

great thread man! I've tried this myself, but haven't ever made it work! <evil laugh> I will now rule the WORLD!!!! Now, where did I put my hobby knife??!!

[BobGurkin]

Thank you so much. I have been wondering if it were possible to build a model with a natural aluminum finish. Your excellent tutorial showing all of your tests with lines, rivets, ect has shined a light on this subject. From looking at your "test builds" it is obvious that you are an experienced modeler and I am so looking forward to one of your builds, using these methods. Thank you again :)

[THE DC]

Awesome thread!

The DC

[paper hollywood]

This is a great tute and I'm sure I'll be trying it. I would think that it would be OK to print onto the paper before lamination, though. I would simply lay some plain newsprint over the paper before rubbing it flat against the foil. It might be better to use a brayer than a squeegee in that case. I'll try it both ways sometime and get back.

[richkat]

Fantastic Gil, now has anyone tried digital ground and printing on the foil ?.....Rich

[enigma]

i have bought it and never got around to doing it because i promptly forgot i had it... ill try to get to it this weekend and give some results. :rolleyes:

[richkat]

Gil where did you get your squeegee? I have looked all over and can only find hard plastic ones, they don't work.........Rich

[Gil]

They're called "Smoothee Squeegees" and are used to apply window films [and formerly in film development]. You'll find them at plastic, fiberglass and epoxy suppliers.

I have several sizes. They come in handy for a variety of applications...,

+Gil

[richkat]

Thanks Gil....Rich

[richkat]

Anyone ever try the digital ground printing??........Rich

[Pem Tech]

Excellent information!
Thanks for posting this thread.

[tarunupadhyaya]

Thanks Gil for the amazing tutorial.

I need a little help here.
I am trying to cut circles of paper and then fold them to form triangles.

I am afraid if I make the stock first and then cut & fold, the bended edges may crack the foil.

Should I cut & fold first and then glue the foil?

Please help. Anyone?

[Gil]

Thanks Gil for the amazing tutorial.

I need a little help here.
I am trying to cut circles of paper and then fold them to form triangles.

I am afraid if I make the stock first and then cut & fold, the bended edges may crack the foil.

Should I cut & fold first and then glue the foil?

Please help. Anyone?

The aluminum clad card stock will bend with the fold lines without any problems. Insure that the glue has a little extra time to dry (through the paper side) to insure that the glue bond is firmly set before making the folds (~24 hours).

-Gil

[mbauer]

Wow, didn't know this tutorial existed, always went to the Natural thread.

Great job Gil & Leif!

Thank you!

Mike

[zot]

It's a new one for me too. You guys do the best tutorials! Another question: Is adhesion to the shiny side an issue or is de-lamination required for tabs?

[ringmaster]

In my plastic days, I used the foil from Cadbury Chocolate Bars and a foil adhesive from Zap. It worked very much like the expensive adhesive foil but you could turn it over to get dull or polished surfaces.I also found candy bars with gold and bronze finishes.The candy wrappers were much thinner than Reynolds Wrap.

[Wad Cutter]

I have some very shinny silver mylar which was the bag for some cookies I saves. I tried using it on small boxes but the glue I was using didn't hold. That being the case do you think Mylar would work? Or is back to plan 1 and try to find a place that sell 8 1/2 X 11 sheets of silver card stock. Thank you for your time. wc

[Gil]

It's a new one for me too. You guys do the best tutorials! Another question: Is adhesion to the shiny side an issue or is de-lamination required for tabs?

Either side can be used depending upon what's desired for the model. I don't use tabs - connecting rings that are tabbed can easily be substituted.

I have some very shinny silver mylar which was the bag for some cookies I saves. I tried using it on small boxes but the glue I was using didn't hold. That being the case do you think Mylar would work? Or is back to plan 1 and try to find a place that sell 8 1/2 X 11 sheets of silver card stock. Thank you for your time. wc

I tested many different aluminized mylar sheets. Mylar is another name for nylon and is very glue unfriendly - but it is really shiny and can be used to distract ADD type individuals. I don't collect it anymore.

-Gil

[rgmarine]

Best tutorial ever!

[THE DC]

I was wondering about using this for large airships?

Would doing the same process, but using the duller side, accurately represent the doped fabrics of their hulls?

The DC

[Gil]

I was wondering about using this for large airships?

Would doing the same process, but using the duller side, accurately represent the doped fabrics of their hulls?

The DC

DC,

Dull side aluminum foil is synonymous with Zeppelin silver. Glad you made the stretch obvious. A little matte spray to match up the high aluminum powder content of the Zeppelin's doped surface would match in-scale perfectly.

Now who will take up the perfect LTA Zeppelin paper model build? How about the all metal ZMC2 or a "K" model USN blimp - both would be naturals for dull side aluminized paper. Floats the imagination with possibilities...,

-Gil

[SCEtoAUX]

So, when you use some silver or other colored stock for the body of a model do you print a set of markings on thin, plain white paper and then cut them out to stick on the model so that the graphics that are white actually look white on the model?:)

[Gil]

So, when you use some silver or other colored stock for the body of a model do you print a set of markings on thin, plain white paper and then cut them out to stick on the model so that the graphics that are white actually look white on the model?:)

The following are photo excerpts from work in developing aluminum on paper:

Inkjet Receptor Coating Development:

http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery/data/500/Al_Prn_Tst_x37_Sht_detail.jpg

http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery/data/500/Al_Prn_Tst_Formed_Pc_W1.jpg

Film Decal Transfer Development:

http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery/data/500/Al_Prn_Tst_Decal_On_AlClad_1.jpg

-Gil

[mbauer]

Hi Gil,

What ink receptor did you use?

Looks perfect for the cones and the decal too!

Mike

[Gil]

Hi Mike,

This may cause some concern as it does not tell you exactly how to make a coating - suffice to say, it contains enough information for those who might be interested in doing it themselves. This should only be undertaken by those who are fully cognizant of the dangers that are involved - especially the process of heating 90% propyl alcohol to dissolve polyvinyl-alcohol crystals:

http://www.tappi.org/downloads/conference-papers/2008/08pm/08pm138.aspx

The resulting printed surface needs to be sealed with a clear coat.

I urge anyone interested in inkjet printing technology to read the paper. It illuminates the physical aspects of placing color on paper and other articles if you are so inclined.


-Gil

[mbauer]

Hi Gil,

Just glanced through the paper. Looks like it has some interesting test results, good info on transfer of ink to paper. Interesting to note that there are machines designed to measure how the ink actually works on different paper.

I'll read through it at a latter date, busy at present creating some drawings for a customer. Take a break here and there to relax a little.

Bought a quart jar of InkAid. It arrived last Monday. After looking through the link, I better go check-out the MSDS.

Thank you for the link!

Mike

[Gil]

Mike,

I've tried InkAid and it works.

One of the problems I ran into was the change in perception InkAid produced when applied to aluminum - it dulled out the aluminum sheen to the point of disappointment. The Indian-head was printed on a single layer of plastic kitchen film that had been painted white prior to coating with the home made receptor solution followed by printing.

That's when I decided to use a very minimal approach to maximizing ink absorption on a layer close to the reflective plane of the aluminum. It turns out it was the right choice...,

-Gil

[mbauer]

Mike,

I've tried InkAid and it works.

One of the problems I ran into was the change in perception InkAid produced when applied to aluminum - it dulled out the aluminum sheen to the point of disappointment. The Indian-head was printed on a single layer of plastic kitchen film that had been painted white prior to coating with the home made receptor solution followed by printing.

That's when I decided to use a very minimal approach to maximizing ink absorption on a layer close to the reflective plane of the aluminum. It turns out it was the right choice...,

-Gil

Can understand the minimal approach!

Do you know which InkAid you tried?

Bought the Clear Gloss II. Also have a roll of silver mirror wall paper (looks like chrome or shiny aluminum). Planning to use the InkAid on it.

Mike

[Gil]

Mike,

I don't remember which one I purchased though I think it was the gloss. They've evidently changed the formulation since then.

You'll find that working with reflective surfaces more difficult than you may at first think. Chrome will look like chrome - with a clear coat layer, aluminum will dull out depending on the amount and type of spray used (or why I learned to love nitrate dope).

I recommend testing and perfecting your workflow prior to diving in to a model build. In CGI it's called "getting the look" right. I'm still on break from being able to do the "flush rivet" look along with being able to perform compound curve deformation using tooling foil. The old adage, "Life's a bitch and then you die" does come to mind...,

-Gil

[mbauer]

Mike,

I don't remember which one I purchased though I think it was the gloss. They've evidently changed the formulation since then.

You'll find that working with reflective surfaces more difficult than you may at first think. Chrome will look like chrome - with a clear coat layer, aluminum will dull out depending on the amount and type of spray used (or why I learned to love nitrate dope).

I recommend testing and perfecting your workflow prior to diving in to a model build. In CGI it's called "getting the look" right. I'm still on break from being able to do the "flush rivet" look along with being able to perform compound curve deformation using tooling foil. The old adage, "Life's a bitch and then you die" does come to mind...,

-Gil

Ah! The old flush rivet look until the curve changes it; look?

My brain would be hurting big-time trying to figure that one out!

I have faith in you, looking forward to seeing how it is done!

Mike

[zubie]

I've generally relied on painted aluminum finish on paper for metallic finish as I can run that through the laser printer (does need a subsequent fixer spray). Needless to say, even with a subsequent gloss coat, I don't get as nice a chrome finish so I loved finding this tutorial.

There's a couple of questions which I think might have been answered but not sure. 1) if applying a sort of "hold the ink" layer to the foil dulls it, will subsequent gloss coating bring it back? 2) has anyone tried running the paper backed foil through a laser printer? 3) Would it also presumably need a primer coat of some kind for the toner to bind to when heated?

Mainly would anyone think this is a bad idea from a killing the printer point of view, 'cause I'm willing to try it and let you know how it goes...I just don't want to kill my printer...it's old but handy...it also allows for a straight through pass.

(I also have an Alps, but that one is pretty much dead :-( )

p.s. I also remember recently reading the diy decal thread, but can't seem to find it

[Gil]

Mainly would anyone think this is a bad idea from a killing the printer point of view, 'cause I'm willing to try it and let you know how it goes...I just don't want to kill my printer...it's old but handy...it also allows for a straight through pass.

Laser printing on aluminum foil is a piece of cake (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlDw8TAuanA).

Please show pictures of your test runs.

-Gil

[richkat]

This thread need a bump as well........Rich

[Mike1158]

A good tutorial is worth a million pictures, that TUT, is worthy and appreciated. Thank you.