M48A3 1:25 scale - Page 2

**John Griffin** · #11 04-07-2008, 10:15 AM

Thanks for the good feedback. I have started adding stuff to the shell... and I might get the main gun on tonight. I will post more pics then.

My photos and lighting don't actually do the turret justice. I used an overly strong light at low altitude (almost right beside the model), and so it catches the seam edges much more than natural lighting. It also washes out colour and adds alot of yellow- that's why some pics look more washed out than others.
When I have a substantial assembly (ie- the entire turret) I will take it outside and try to get a decent shot.

**John Griffin** · #12 04-07-2008, 10:48 PM

More pics... after adding stuff to the shell- aerial bases, stereoscopes, part of the gunner hatch, crew vent, sight, etc.
I didn't get to the gun, but maybe tomorrow. The mantlet should make it all look much more completed.
I am finding that some of the parts are quite small and difficult to shape.
It is startingto look nice.

**Jim Nunn** · #13 04-08-2008, 12:49 AM

John

The turret on the Patton is quite a challenge and you have done a great job producing the shape in paper.

Jim Nunn

**John Griffin** · #14 04-08-2008, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Nunn

John

The turret on the Patton is quite a challenge and you have done a great job producing the shape in paper.

Jim Nunn

Thanks! I wasn't sure it would go together until the very night I built it. About the only thing I think i need to adjust is to slightly trim the innner turret frames (formers) to account for thickness and warpage. I can never get my formers to stay flat after I laminate them to ceral box.

I have been thinking about rubbing 'chalk' dust (dry pastels? ) along the seam edges to blend them in. I've tried ink and water colours before but only managed to make the printed ink bleed horribly as a result.

**John Griffin** · #15 04-08-2008, 08:25 AM

Any tips from you tanks guys out there would be appreciated.
I do consider myself a tank fan (as well as AC), but have not really modeled them until now. One neat thing is that I can crawl around on a couple of real M48s and an M47 up the street when I need to...

**Jim Nunn** · #16 04-08-2008, 10:05 AM

John,

I have never had very much luck with using cereal box stock for the formers. Because it does not have a high content of long cellulose fibers, it tends to fall apart. It also is porous and absorbs moisture. Try this experiment cut a strip if the stock you are using to an exact length of 20 cm. Set it on your workbench with a dish of water near by measure it over a length of time and you will find that length will change.

Laminate some thick card stock from your supply of 64 lb paper using 3m super 77 spray glue. You will find it to be very stable and if you allow it to dry under pressure of a some weight it will be dead flat and will not warp out of shape.

As for edge coloring I am a big fan of watercolors. If the watercolor paint runs the ink on the printed part, try a lot less water. Most of the time I am almost dry brushing the watercolor on the part. If you try to color the part just after you glue it you will also have problems with the paper delaminating.

Jim Nunn

**Lex** · #17 04-08-2008, 12:00 PM

Wow... Now that's a great tank design! ...Any chance of release?

(Lex being greedy...)

**John Griffin** · #18 04-08-2008, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex

Wow... Now that's a great tank design! ...Any chance of release?

(Lex being greedy...)

Of Course! But first I have to actually assemble one; to catch any potentially embarrassing little mistakes, and to make sure it all fits.
I plan on offering this OD version, and also a tan version.

**CharlieC** · #19 04-08-2008, 04:10 PM

I usually use laminated manilla folders for frames - glued with spray adhesive and left overnight under some pressure. Seems to give a stable, easily cut frame card.

Like Jim I found that cereal boxes are problematic.

I use acrylic paint for edge colouring. It doesn't soak into the card and matches the finish on the card pretty well. The downside is that mixing the colour required can be tedious because acrylics do change colour when they dry.

Regards,

Charlie

**John Griffin** · #20 04-08-2008, 04:41 PM

Darn it! I guess I'l have to recycle now. I've been saving cereal boxes for years for 'just in case'. I have literally hundreds flattened and stacked.
If my wife finds out I didn't need them I'll really cop it- I don't know how many times I've lectured her about saving them for me, every time I found one she through in the trash bin!
Live and learn, from the pros.