#21
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Looks great! Nothing wrong with using paint. Anything that can be used to make a model (in any medium) look more realistic, I use it!
Ken
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Comments, questions, advice and critical feedback are welcome! |
#22
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I'm finishing the tracks. Base elements (about 160 pieces) are ready. Now I'm attaching additional parts - "bases" for rubber pads and side reinforcements.
Now I have two questions: - is anyone interested what is my method of track-making? - what base colour should I use for metalic parts of the track? Green, grey (I'd prefere to avoid black...)? The model will finally have Nato green-brown-black camo. |
#23
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Yes, please.
Quote:
The track pads should have a black base color with light-gray highlights. |
#24
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I have done some research and lots of thought and I decided on a rust color base coat sprayed on with a top coat of some metallic powder and than a clear matt fixative to keep the powder from smudging for my King Tiger. I am gonna try just a light coat of metal powder just to give a hint of the metal underneath the rust.
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#25
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BTW forgot it's looking really good.
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#26
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I'll try to present my method to make the tracks. I hope that my explanations with photos will be clear enough.
Some of you may not like it, as the approach may be called "brute force". You know, in fact I'm a lazy guy and I do a lot to make my life easier Instead of preparing the digital project of single track I make a tool (sort of cutting table) that helps me make the tracks. The first step is to have the drive wheel - It gives you all the dimensions you need. According to these dimensions and photos of the real thing you prepare semi-finished product - the combination of paper and wires (I used ta telephone wire). On the third photo below you see what I mean. You need to pay attention to keep the same dimensions while putting it together. The cutting table (photo no 4) lets you cut that material quickly without much effort. Of course You need to remove copper wires before you start cutting. In fact the cutting table is the key to have nice, repetitive shapes. The guides have to be well aligned and soaked with cyanoacrylic glue. My advice is not to follow exactly what I show - I'm just trying to present the general idea (plus my table is just ugly, do not copy it ). The real problem is to cut the holes for the drive wheel teeth. First you need to find a method to trace where to cut, then figure out how to cut them. Right now I don't have photos to show how I dealt with it. I'll catch up later. If someone uses that method I recommend making some extra links - the first elements you make will not be perfect. Alternatively you can put the worse elements where the track is not visible. And finally the copper wire you salvaged will help you put the links together. |
#27
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Thanks alot! This really helps and inspires rookies like myself.
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#28
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Thank You so much for letting us see how you make your tracks! I was hesitating planning a tracked vehicle because I really only wanted to make one that had tracks like these but no idea how to start.
Gerry
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Gerry Staggs When life hands you stress cut the paper and make it something new!! |
#29
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Hi guys,
This time I'll show you the results of my painting experiments. I decided no to use brush at the begining and bought two sprays - one with grey primer and second with matt brown (because I finally chosen to go for brown). Photos below show the preparation, some painting in progress and the result. When the first and second layer of paint got dry I used acrylic paint (burnt umber wit some white) to fill the holes (I cleaned the exterior surfaces) and silver metalic (drybrushing). Advice for those who might want to use similar method - be very careful using sprays, It's very easy to turn your tracks into nice and useless mass of paper and paint. If you use too much paint everythings may glue together... |
#30
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THANKS for the TRACK DEMO!!
EXCELLENT!
Jim
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1914--1918. WE WILL REMEMBER THEM. |
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