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Old 07-28-2007, 07:42 PM
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WAK Panzer 1F Build (resurrected)

The build report of the WAK Pz 1F on another forum lost all the images in a server move. Rather than just walk away from it I'll rebuild the thread here - hopefully it will last longer than a few months. As, in the track build report, I've dropped the comment posts except where the replay clarifies the build.

I guess I've got myself into documenting the build of this model by doing the tracks in another thread. Here's the basic kit information.

The kit was designed by Mariusz Kurzynski who seems to be a new AFV model designer - at least the WSMK database doesn't record any other models except for the recent WAK models. It seems to have been a computer designed model as most recent Polish models have been. The printing and artwork are very good.

There are 10 parts pages printed on what seems to be 160 gsm card. Four pages of diagrams, the instruction text is in Polish and is less than a page and a single page of 80 gsm with the patterns for frames, etc.

The Panzer 1F was an armoured oddity - it was a continuation of the Panzer 1 development to build either reconnaisance (Ausf D) or light infantry support tanks (Ausf F). The armour of the Ausf F was increased up to a maximum thichness of 80mm but the primary armament was still a pair of MG34 machine guns. Only about 30 of the Ausf F variant were built in 1942-3.

The subject of the WAK model is a tank issued to SS Division "Prinz Eugen" in 1942 and used against partisans in Yugoslavia. This campaign was almost a throwback to medieval warfare in its ferocity - the recent Balkan wars of the 1990s almost looked like quite gentlemanly affairs compared to the WW2 fighting.

Regards,

Charlie
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:44 PM
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After surveying the model parts it was obvious that the roadwheel parts seemed to account for a large proportion of the model. Since I'd already built the track I decided to tackle the roadwheels - at least if I ran out of enthusiasm I wouldn't wind up with (another) tank hull lying around.

I like to build towards a target so here's an image of the Panzer 1F from armor.kiev.ua showing the general layout of the drive and roadwheels. I'll get some images of my model version tomorrow.

Regards,

Charlie

<< haven't found this image yet >>
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:45 PM
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I don't claim to be a great builder but here goes....

I believe that one of the traps of designing with computer software is that it is reasonably easy to develop a 3D object then generate parts to build the object based on unfolding the skin of the object. This procedure will work but ignores considerations of how easy it is to build, the strength of the object created from these parts and examination of alternative ways to creating the object which will be simpler to build and produce a better simulation of the original. I think the author of the Panzer 1F has, in part, fallen into this trap.

The roadwheels of this model took me ages to build because I found that I was either building simple structures with lots of small parts or having to reengineer the designto better approximate the original or simplify the design.

Picking a few obvious problems:

- The axles of the wheels were modelled as cylinders - replaced these with rolled up parts - the original was too weak to withstand much handling.

- The struts supporting the outer drive drive sprocket were replaced by parts cut out of 1 mm card - the originals were too small and complex and also too weak.

- the outer roadwheels were rebuilt using modified parts - the original didn't look very convincing and was very complex.

- replaced the washers on the end of axles with simple dished disks - the original had Belville washers to provide a simple way to get the torque right on the nuts on the end of the axle.

If I built these again I'd also fix up the inner wheels - the fused spokes are complicated to build and aren't very accurate. I'd probably also get a set of the nut shapes used on the reported build of the Draf 1/16 75mm gun - the best I could do was 1 mm disks

Regards,

Charlie
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:46 PM
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Back to the normal build sequence....

The frame is a pretty standard design. The parts layout was a bit confusing because there were a number of parts joined together - it wasn't clear whether these should be bent (not easy with 1mm card) or cut into pieces - I cut it into pieces.

Regards,

Charlie
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:47 PM
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Got the skin on the hull - the fit is reasonable without being in the Halinski class.

The instructions aren't very good - finding where a part goes usually requires searching a number of complex diagrams for a reference to it. I haven't found
any missing part references in the instructions so far but it can be quite frustrating. At least the parts for one major assembly are mostly all on the same sheet.

Regards,

Charlie
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:49 PM
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There are quite a number of inaccuracies in this model.

I think I've found the drawing that the designer used - it came from the Russian Modelist-Constructor magazine on the Panzer I. However, there are, as usual, a number of errors in the drawing when compared to photos of the Panzer 1F. In particular:

1. The shape of the rear hull is wrong - the rear plate of the hull is higher than modelled and the angle of the rear hull plate is steeper.

2. The muffler in the original looks as though it was enclosed by a box construction - the model doesn't attempt this.

3. The air inlets on the model are approximately correct but there wasn't a grille over the inlets but rather a plate pierced with 4 rows of circular holes.

4. The model has parts for towing shackles as if they were permanently fitted to the tank. I've surveyed dozens of period Wehrmacht images and haven't found a tank with the shackles fitted unless it was being towed. I don't know where this idea (the towing shackles were always fitted) came from but it seems to be inconsistent with photo evidence.

I'll do the best I can with this model but I'm starting to lose patience with a design based on limited research.

Regards,

Charlie
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:50 PM
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Time for an update.

The swing arms are finished and various bits on the hull. I had my doubts about how well the muffler would come out but it seems ok. The swing arms are really well designed - in effect they are solid card - takes a while to cut out but they certainly are strong enough to support the weight of the model.

I haven't put the air intakes on yet. I'm still trying to find an image of these. I think the drawing is wrong.

Regards,

Charlie
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:51 PM
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Same state from the front - and also to prove I've done the swing arms on both sides. I found the driver's visor quite tricky to get right - lots of folds and edge joins.

Regards,

Charlie
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:52 PM
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Time for an update ......

Finally got all the stuff on the hull top finished - lots of fiddly things.

I finally found an image of the VK1801 (prototype of the Ausf F) which showed the engine air inlets. The model had the trash screens recessed but this doesn't seem to have been the case so I reworked the model to reflect this.

For a number of the small parts the designer used minute cylinders complete with end caps I found it much easier to simply punch out the appropriate size part out of thick card.

Regards,

Charlie
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Old 07-28-2007, 07:52 PM
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View from the front....

I found the escape hatches quite hard to build - it's a disk with a truncated cone to give the effect of the hatch thickness. At least I'm reasonably happy with the towing cables - even if they aren't consistent with the photo evidence - the original seems to have had quite long lengths of thin cable.

I've played around for ages with tow cables made from strands of thin copper wire but was never particularly happy with the results. The ones here are made from black cotton thread - the trick is to soak the thread in acrylic varnish before twisting the threads to get rid of the "furriness" of the thread. Each cable is made from 11 strands twisted together and the bundle of threads soaked in acrylic varnish again. I guess I should have used grey thread but in my defence I'd point out that wire ropes should never be used if they look dry (silvery) or rusty (I just knew those years in heavy industry would be useful one day).

Only the turret to go!!!

Regards,

Charlie
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