Modelik BTR-80

[hirondelle]

A few more steps made.

Before adding cz16, & the assembly comprising cz17, cz17b, cz17c, it is necessary to make holes in the paper parts 16 & 17. I used a thumb tack/pin.

It is best to add these wire elements before fixing the wheels, though it is possible to do the central 17 assemblies with the wheels in situ.

The tricky part with assembly 17 is there is no locating mark on the 17b parts for cz17b. They have the marks for the brackets 17d (& 17c underneath on 17) but no locating hole for the end of cz17b.
I used the length of the cz17b wire to judge roughly where it should go. (pic to follow.) I first fitted cz17, then hooked cz17b over it. I didn't glue cz17 so it could swing with cz17b attached & allow a suitable spot about 2/3rds of the way up 17b to be marked & holed with a pin.
The pic from the pro build shows the point where cz17b penetrates 17b. (Central red circle) Leftmost circle shows step cz16 in place on panel 16.

[elliott]

Nice solution to the problem. Your BTR-80 looks like it's nearing completion. True? What do you plan to do with it once you've finished?

[hirondelle]

On my post above - I should add that I made the holes in 16 & 17 before attaching them to the main hull. I think I was lucky that the front of 17 was tough enough not to buckle when making the hole for cz17b.

@Elliot Yes true mostly. Not that much to do really. But most of it is small/fiddly bits & these might be quite time consuming.
I am not sure whether to do some experimental coloring on this when its built. I quite like the fact you don't have to paint paper models as you do with plastic, & often paint conceals the fact the model is paper, (& I have to say I like peoples surprise when they realize a model is paper not plastic).

When I'm totally done with it, I don't know. More than half of my builds have been given away. I hope that the extended audience will get others interested in the craft I guess.

What happens to your models?

[elliott]

As there is no room for more than a few models at home, I take mine to the local children's cancer ward. The looks on their faces is all the reward I'll ever need and it keeps me building. Just wish I could build faster.

[hirondelle]

Thats a great idea Elliot.

[hirondelle]

A couple more pieces in place.
The number of wire elements such as hand-rails is deceptive. I find there are an awful lot of holes that need to be carefully bored into the skin. The hatch panels [26] have rails that seat better if the wire is allowed to go through the hull skin. I think this has to be done as <1mm of paper doesn't provide a whole
lot to bond the wires to.
I did find a can of tuna that was exactly the right diameter for shaping the turret guard rail.
I completed the turret, I decided to roll the barrels instead of using wood. I'd like to think it was better in the long run, but I also needed the rolling practice.

[Tim Crowe]

Looking good

Nice work on the barrel

Tim

[hirondelle]

Thanks Tim.

Fun with hinges - turns out that some tiny parts aren't listed in the assembly diagrams.
The only way to associate them is by their numbering & referring to the pro builds... who woulda thunk it!?
So -
Central top hatch hinges & ribs - 19a, 19d, 20c should go in the green square.
The top front hatches aren't listed anywhere but the assembly of 40, 40a, 40b & 40c is located in the blue square.

For anyone who is attempting this build this shows how important it is to keep track of part no.s, more so than usual. Once you start cutting it's real easy to lose sight of what something is supposed to be related to, especially because it may not appear on the building diagrams.

[hirondelle]

I found an issue with the hinges.

40c & 19d are a little too short. In order to reach the hull they need to be cut <1-2mm longer. Initially for the front I cut them out & had to build them back up, but on the central hatches I started @2mm & trimmed down until they were giving the right clearance.
Also on the front hatches I think it is a good idea to cut a tooth into 40 to allow the hatch to close without fouling. The bracket arm on 40b is quite small to put extra strain upon if you want the hatches to open. So I decided it was better to alter the hinge connecting to the hull.
The central hatches [20] could open as well if this method is repeated.

[elliott]

Looks really good Hirondelle. Looking forward to completion of this one.