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  #21  
Old 02-02-2017, 09:23 PM
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KCStephens KCStephens is offline
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Looking good Anne!
If the large one piece skins give you trouble, dont be afraid to cut them apart into smaller manageable pieces. If I remember correctly thats what I ended up doing.
Cant wait to see more.
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  #22  
Old 02-04-2017, 03:26 PM
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good work so far Anne.
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  #23  
Old 02-10-2017, 07:08 PM
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I haven't had time for over a week to touch this model, though I kept my hand in by making some funny little figures for a friend to cheer her up while she's in the hospital. Tonight I returned to my workbench and cut out the hull skin, a huge slab of paper. Dry fit appears to be excellent, as others have noted, and by studying other builders' reports I have figured out that the triangles at the front are some kind of half-fender for the drive sprockets. Tomorrow I'm going shopping for O.D. paint for the edges.

But I need advice. My usual favorite white glue isn't going to be a good choice for gluing this large skin onto the formers. I thought about glue stick, but I'm not convinced that it sticks that well, and it might be lumpy. Spray adhesive will go where I don't want it to. Any suggestions?
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  #24  
Old 02-11-2017, 04:38 AM
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Hi Anne, I'm far from knowing much bout this paper model business but I read a lot.
Currently I'm building a Harvard by Dave Winfield, and I gotta laminate some parts onto 1mm card. So I hit them up with some spray adhesive as I've done before and placed under weight over night. All good this morning.
Last night I was reading some tips from a book binder and if anyone knows paper and card then it's a book binder.
He says the best thing they found was a 50/50 mix of PVA and water.
Brushed onto the card then the paper placed on top and popped into a paper press for 24hrs.
So I tried it cept my paper press is two large ceramic floor tiles ( for flatness ) .
I put the glued card between the tiles with baking paper to stop any sticking to the tiles and put two 4 litre water bottles on top.
Results were great and much cheaper with no mess or stink.
I see no reason you can't use the same glue mix for your application though you won't be able to place it in a press.
Could be worth your while doing a test run, unless you have already tried it.
Clive.

Last edited by darter; 02-11-2017 at 04:40 AM. Reason: forgot a bit
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  #25  
Old 02-11-2017, 08:05 AM
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I would avoid using a glue stick. I don't trust the longevity of the bond. In time, as the glue stick dries out, I'd be afraid that the skins would separate from the frame.
My first choice would be to take Darter's advice and go with a thinned down white glue.
If I remember correctly that's exactly what I used when I built this model.
I used a small stiff paint brush with natural bristles to apply the glue to the frame work, not the skin, working on one flat surface at a time. Also, if my memory serves me correctly, I recall cutting the large, one piece, skin down into a few smaller manageable pieces.

As far as the paint goes, if you can find it, pick up a bottle or two of Model Master acrylic #4842 OD - ANA 613. It's a perfect match. This color also matches the Dragon Wagon so when you build that kit next you be ready to go.
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  #26  
Old 02-11-2017, 12:12 PM
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I have used white glue for the skins for all my models and never had a problem with it!
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  #27  
Old 05-27-2017, 06:36 PM
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It's been several months since I posted on this project. I did manage to get the skins on, using thinned white glue, and it went pretty well. I just realized that I don't have an overall picture of it, though.

After the April 1 papermodelers event in Carlisle PA, I was charged up to build, but had developed an aversion to "the big project." I switched to quick-completion models and have completed several animals and Bruno planes since then, but this is the armor forum. At the end of Army Heritage Days, also in Carlisle, Kevin Stephens reminded me ever so gently that I really should get back to work on my Sherman. His Sherman was one of the stars of the show, being carried proudly on the in-progress trailer of the Dragon Wagon. My response was that he was correct, but I had a cat and an airplane to finish first. Well, cat and airplane have been completed (first picture), so I have no more excuses.

Today I spent the afternoon trying to figure out where I left off. This was more of a challenge than I expected. I knew that I had built the skeleton and skinned it, but it took some head-scratching to figure out the part numbers of the skins. It turned out that they were parts 3 (hull), 4 (upper), 5 left, and 5 right (sides).

I also knew that I had cut out and shaped, but not yet put on, parts 1, 2 left, and 2 right, which form the lower glacis plate (I think that's what they should be called -- I'm fuzzy on Sherman nomenclature). I had developed an irrational terror of these parts because they promised to be tricky to fit. And part 1 was challenging, but I'm telling myself the flaws are minimally visible. This may be a delusion. I had spent some time shaping the curves in 2 L&R, and I think they actually came out fairly well. I got glue smears all over the place, but they wipe off with a dampened paper towel without damaging the printed finish too badly. The second picture shows part 1 with its proud white star, and the third picture shows the under side with curved parts 2 L&R.

Next, logically, should be parts 6. I think they are part of the suspension, but I haven't thoroughly examined everything yet. Kevin tells me that the suspension is difficult to figure out, and has given me a cheat sheet for the tricky part, so I have some study to do. I'm glad to be making progress on this long-term project again, but won't promise to work on it exclusively. For sanity's sake, I'll probably do a quick model now and then.
Attached Thumbnails
Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc0977.jpg   Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc0982.jpg   Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc0983.jpg  
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  #28  
Old 05-28-2017, 05:26 AM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Anne -

This is indeed progress since I last saw your Sherman over the Army Heritage Days weekend. Cat, aircraft, and tank all look first rate. Excellent artisanship all the way around.

With regard to the suspension, allow me to drag out once again the image of the two old masters of suspensions discussing the arcane modalities of bogies back when Kevin's Sherman was in its early stages of construction.

Cheers!

Don
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Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-pmatusahec2010_greg-kevin-gpm_m4a3.jpg  
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  #29  
Old 05-29-2017, 09:32 AM
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Amccombs3 Amccombs3 is offline
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The first three pictures are overall views to establish that, yes, I did get the skins on. The last 2 views of the underside illustrate recent progress.

Yesterday and today were spent on parts that are preparation for the suspension. Parts 6 are the almost-rectangular thick pieces on the side of the hull; parts 7 are the two cross braces with triangular cross-sections; and parts 8 are the wedges glued to the bottom. No surprises or puzzles, just straightforward score, cut, assemble. Next is the dreaded suspension, which will be parts 9 (with 9a, 9b, etc.). I have been studying the parts, the photographs, and Kevin's cheat sheet, but it appears that nothing short of actually scoring and cutting will answer some of the questions. Onward . . .
Attached Thumbnails
Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc0984.jpg   Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc0985.jpg   Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc0986.jpg   Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc0987.jpg   Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc0988.jpg  

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  #30  
Old 05-29-2017, 10:41 AM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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That looks mighty fine, Anne. I hope to build one myself some day. This build will be an inspiration.

Don
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