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  #51  
Old 04-18-2018, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amccombs3 View Post
I don't think that is remotely within the realm of possibility. At best, I might get the hull sitting on the road wheels / suspension. But after that, there are sprockets, idlers, tracks --and then all of the hull details, turret, gun, etc. I'm not a fast builder and it's very much a long term project. I'm not discouraged, just accepting the nature of the process.
I think you should challenge Don to a Sherman tank build off.

Just my 2 cents worth...

If I had 2 cents.

I have none-cents.

BTW Your road wheels look very good.

greg
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  #52  
Old 04-18-2018, 09:42 AM
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Anne would win (and her road wheels DO look very good).

First, I would have to finish the Flymodel M3 light tank that I started eleven years ago.

Don
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  #53  
Old 11-12-2018, 03:11 PM
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Amccombs3 Amccombs3 is offline
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This build has gone fallow for a long time (though I did complete other projects during the downtime). Finally, I returned to the road wheels, to which I had developed an aversion, determined to plow on through. And I did, but right now I am not at all happy with the outcome. The fit has gone badly, and they are not at all clean builds, and they seem to need touch-ups everywhere. The worst part is the outer diameter strips, and I think the picture tells the tale pretty well on that. Most of them gapped at the ends, and on most of them, the rims came out too close together and the outer strip sticks out along one edge. Frankly, they look pretty awful.

The only part that went well is that I found a paint that I like better for edge coloring. The one recommended to me was an excellent match, but I didn't like its consistency and had trouble working with it. I now have a Caran D'Ache Neocolor II that I like much better.

I'm not sure how to feel right now. I'd feel better if I could chalk it up to a learning experience, but I don't really know how I could improve what I did to get a better result. I didn't learn anything.

I definitely do not have enough remaining morale to try to redo them, even if I printed copies (which wouldn't match anyhow). I will probably try to trim the edge from the outer strips (my first attempt, with a hobby knife, did not go well, so I think I'll try fine scissors next), recolor the trimmed edges, and carry on. I should be able to hide the gaps by placing them facing the track.

I'm not giving up on this model, but I'm not feeling very good about it right now. The next step is to assemble the road wheels and bogies, and then (gulp) glue them onto the hull. Since I can rarely get even four wheels to touch simultaneously, I'm really not looking forward to twelve.

I'm sure I'm not the only one to have these kinds of problems with a model. Any words of advice . . . or at least comfort?
Attached Thumbnails
Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc1067.jpg   Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-gedc1066.jpg  
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  #54  
Old 11-12-2018, 03:43 PM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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The road wheels do not look bad, and a little touch up with the Neocolor will deal with the few spots where the color is missing - I recommend wetting a brush in water and rubbing it on the edge of the crayon in order to get the color down between the hubs and the tires.

In any event, I hope you will press on and complete the model.

Best wishes whatever you decide to do.

Don
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  #55  
Old 11-12-2018, 04:04 PM
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SCEtoAUX SCEtoAUX is offline
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A trick I use when there is an unsightly gap is to mix some matching color scraped from a pencil or obtained from some other source with some white glue to form a putty that fills the gap. Some light sanding when the glue mixture has dried will help blend the repaired area in with the part.

Something I do when the outer rim stick out too far is to try to trim as close to the body as I can. I have some scalpel blades mounted in a Fiskars knife blade handle that works for delicate cutting like that. I then color the exposed white paper.

Another thing you can do is call it battle damage or a field repair if the operation does not turn out good.
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  #56  
Old 11-12-2018, 05:18 PM
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I would just wrap those road wheels again
with a new outer layer that is long enough to cover.
A new strip will add .5mm to the diameter, so it shouldn't be a big deal.

Did you scan the kit?...if so, enlarge the parts (so they are longer) and print them again.
Then just trim them narrower, to the original width.

Otherwise, cut some strips using coloured or painted paper
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  #57  
Old 11-12-2018, 08:32 PM
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I've always found scissors are better for trimming overlap like that, as for the gaps, facing them to the track is a good option, otherwise I'd go with what Dave suggested and just wrap another layer of thin paper around the outside. You can either paint it or scan and print something of the same colour.

As for mounting the wheels, I've never built a tank so I'm not sure how the wheel and bogie sections go together but I've built more than a few multi axle vehicles. What I like to do is build a base for the model to sit on so that it's at the height it will sit with the wheels attached, then mount the wheels from the sides, I've attached a pic of how I've tackled this on my current build... I just built two little stands to hold it at the right height. Then it's just a matter of gluing the wheel to the axle and pushing something against it to hold it up right while the glue dries.

Anne's M4A3 Sherman GPM-img20181113132609.jpg
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  #58  
Old 11-13-2018, 01:16 AM
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It has been a privilege to see your progress with this beast, sticking with it in some manner will give a sense of closure over the problems. You are so close now that it would be a real shame to miss out on the sense of achievement that comes from beating problems. You rock at this paper modeling lark, seriously, rock on.
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  #59  
Old 11-13-2018, 10:17 AM
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No worries Anne, the wheels look good to me.
Just pick the best side to display on the outside and glue the gap onto the track and you'll never see it. Keep in mind much of the side wall will be positioned behind the guide plates on the track hiding any imperfections.
Model on!

PS.
If its not too late I would recommend not using the wire axles
Just glue the hubs directly onto the suspension arms. it's a lot less work this way
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  #60  
Old 11-13-2018, 10:30 AM
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Tim Crowe Tim Crowe is offline
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Your road wheels are fine.

Any white bits, either trim off or cover with paint. Any gaps you can glue downwards to let the tracks to hide them.

Choose the best side of each road wheel and glue that outwards. By the time the tracks are on and all the little teeth are fitted, it will look fine

I left my wheels loose till i fitted the tracks. You only need to get the outer four to touch the tracks initially. I used the spirit level on my phone to balance the tank.

Hope this helps

Tim
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