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  #11  
Old 03-15-2017, 04:58 AM
hirondelle hirondelle is offline
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Been slowly cutting up & trial assembling the turret.

It is a tricky assembly but it is starting to look like a turret. The ring assembly is stepped but I cannot see anything telling me which way round the "step" goes (260, 261/S12) I assume it is low end to the front but I think I have to finish both assemblies before trying to put them together. Camo alignment match is a bit ambiguous.

I translated the instruction page (OCR+Gooooglish) which some may find useful as there a couple of tips that which could be used generically (eg wheel mounting order)
Quote:
The model was developed at the scale of 1: 25. It should be
it classified as severe under construction.
The complex construction of the tower
It requires putting a lot of work and
patience. strictly
Observe the specified thickness of cardboard
otherwise the parts can not fit
to each other. Parts cut out "the line."
Particular attention should be paid to
quite difficult yoke cannon. Before
Begin to build the model
Please read the description of the construction and
assembly drawings. At
the construction of the model will be useful
scissors, paper knife, metal
ruler, tweezers, glue kauczukowyb
in this pre n, pulp-hermol,
polymer, polyurethane,
for example, super-cyanoacrylate
glue droplet, cyjanopan like.
Some connections will be useful
adhesive liquid water-based Brand Clear
Glue (BCG). You will also need
toothpicks, wire of different thicknesses,
paperboard having a thickness of 0.5 mm, 1 mm,
1.5mm, sandpaper with different
density. To retouch the edges
I suggest you use stains modeling.
Before working model
You can clear varnish
lacquer. surfaces
unprinted and visible after
sticking parts paint color
corresponding to the colors of the model.

In the course of construction to be observed
the following indications:
* - Stick on cardboard 0,5 mm
** - Stick on cardboard 1 mm
*** - Stick on cardboard 1,5 mm
X - cut a hole
®! T - roll up tightly
O - rolled into a tube
... R -.... - formed according to the formula
+ - - Forward model

255

The model can be made inside
which is very simplistic.
Experienced modelers may be
taken as a starting point for the
the creation of the complete equipment.
The construction of the model starts from
embodiment of the hull, which consists of
skeleton parts. W1-W11. Way
gluing skeleton show
drawings. The skeleton paste inside.
All parts marked with the letter S
paste into the vehicle. On
ready skeleton glued sheathing
part 1, part 2 (part 2 cut
hole on the mechanism of rotation of the tower and
on the engine). From the bottom of the hull part 1
Glue cover wishbone.
Then glue the wings that are
are rounded at their front and rear
parts. Fillets are quite difficult to
execution and they should be paid to
more attention. The engine cowling are
difficult elements to
profiling and follow them
carefully. Then glue shell
Transm. All small parts
glued to the hull. Way
assembly shown in the diagram.
Back hull complement hinges
shields and exhaust pipes.
Mechanisms of tension wheels suggest
glue them to the hull at the time of
setting the track in order to tension.
Then glue wheel that
We glued to the wishbone as follows
way. The two front wheels and right
the left stick to control arms so that
model was not leaning in any
page. Then glue the last
a pair of wheels so that the entire model was equally
4 wheels. sticking wheels
center should not make
trouble. In this way, all-wheel drive
They will become equal and none of them
It will be protruded or hung in
257 250
air. All operations must
performed on a flat, level
surface. Note the
camouflage which was applied to
the outer surfaces of the wheel bearing.
From the front of the model we assemble
near the green-sand-brazowezielone-
sand.
The next step is the construction of gluing
yoke gun and rifle.
Then glue hatch driver
with periscopes. Way
gluing shown.
Tool boxes glued to
fenders.
Then glue skeleton tower
(Marked with the letters S) which is
at the same time the interior of the tower. veneering it
sheathing. To stick on tower
all components and assemble
barrel along with the yoke. after gluing
individual track links combine
them together by means of bolts, shows
We are drawing. We were applied to the wheels.
At this point, we append the hull
adjusting the tension wheel at the same time
voltage track. voltage regulation
We can also be done by
shortening w / w of one track or two
Cell according to need.
It should be remembered that in one tank
caterpillar 7 consisted of 4 cells. IN
To enhance the stability
made model we can
re-varnish
[Polish page attached.]
Attached Thumbnails
GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-t-ring.jpg   GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-turret-ring.jpg   GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-t-34-inst-polish.jpg  
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  #12  
Old 03-25-2017, 12:36 PM
hirondelle hirondelle is offline
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Thanks to DJE's tips I managed to make my circles a bit more circular.

I have to say tho, the compass cutter does not appear to be a tovarich of armor production for the Paper Proletariat. Maybe this is cos it was made in an Axis country! :P

Next I need to get the smaller hub rings done, then I can start actually building the 10 main road wheels.
Attached Thumbnails
GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-wheels-1.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2017, 11:54 AM
hirondelle hirondelle is offline
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Managed to force the turret into shape. Not a great fit & a fair bit of sanding to create sloped edge joins was necessary.
Even so it looks OK & will hopefully be able to be further improved.
Attached Thumbnails
GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-hull-turret.jpg  
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  #14  
Old 04-12-2017, 04:30 AM
hirondelle hirondelle is offline
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Haven't had chance to do any more assembly.
A little more cutting & a late decision to acquire a 2nd circle cutter took precedence.
I have only about 10 circles left to cut out but I liked the look of the ratchet & realized that might actually help make the cuts more stable.
It turns out that a wrist will only twist so far.

The new toy has just arrived & it has yet to be tried out. It has a plastic sponge backed disk included. This has a + cut into it. Looks like I can make a circle cut without making the center pin hole.

I did some OCR & Gooooooglish on this, kind of self-explanatory - just as well as the translations of some parts were worse than the Kanji. Still it should help some non-Japanese speakers
Attached Thumbnails
GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-olfa-189b.jpg   GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-olfa-j2e.jpg  

Last edited by hirondelle; 04-12-2017 at 05:05 AM.
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  #15  
Old 04-12-2017, 07:50 AM
Don Boose's Avatar
Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Looks good. I like my current OLFA circle cutter, but this one appears to have some useful features. Unfortunately, none of the U.S. OLFA distributers carry it. Will continue to search.

The latest work on the tank is excellent.

Don
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  #16  
Old 04-12-2017, 08:50 AM
hirondelle hirondelle is offline
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Hey Don.
Got mine direct from Japan via Amazon.

Thanks for the encouragement on the tank, it's a tricky little beast but I like it.
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  #17  
Old 04-12-2017, 09:19 AM
Don Boose's Avatar
Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Many thanks. Just ordered mine the same way.

Don
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  #18  
Old 04-12-2017, 02:11 PM
pjabraham pjabraham is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hirondelle View Post

I have to say tho, the compass cutter does not appear to be a tovarich of armor production for the Paper Proletariat. Maybe this is cos it was made in an Axis country! :P
Chuckle!

Phil
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  #19  
Old 04-13-2017, 10:22 AM
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dje dje is offline
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You made good progress, the turret is nicely done. I too was a little perplex about this cardboard part when I studied this model.

Compass cutter, a mandatory tool when doing armour .
Btw guys, you know you can get those from many Polish paper shop were we buy our model Spare blade too... I even import my glue from them
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  #20  
Old 04-16-2017, 10:03 AM
hirondelle hirondelle is offline
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Don - enjoy

pjabraham - it had to said

dje - As you know from the parts of the turret ring [261 + S-12] the 'break' in the ring is 180 degrees opposed. This made me think I could apply this idea elsewhere. The author doesn't like to give us too many clues .
I think tire construction & the conical faces for each wheel must employ this method to give a strong bond with no butt-joins. (You probably know this but it was new for me to see this possibility available for so many parts.)

One of my reasons for this tank build is the fact that paper doesn't like curved cuts, so I felt I should get practice with circles.
Same thing with tracks - lots of work on these required & altho it is daunting I must try it!
I did buy some glue from Poland with my last order as I wanted to compare it. I have since decided I would first use it on something simple. This time I will use what I'm familiar with - already a tough learning curve without new glue behavior.



I have been adding to my pile of wheel parts, which with the edge coloring is quite time consuming. I want to get all the bits ready for these 10 road wheel pairs before starting assembly.
The center boss is made with a petal dome, the finished item shown on GPMs site doesn't show this. It has flat circle. Cheat! :P

I found a couple of decent WW2 images showing this model. Seems that there were only a few of them - 117 (?) made in 1940. Have not found much reference material on this specific model. Maybe it is all in Russian.
Attached Thumbnails
GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-r-whl.jpg   GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-early-t34.jpg   GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-t34-evo.jpg   GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-ring1.jpg   GPM 353 T-34/76 mod. 1940-ring-2.jpg  

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