#51
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Managed to get the last of my wheels done.
The hefty 1mm diameter [174] enjoyed behaving as tiddlywinks which led to hours of fun searching the floor. Added the nut & bolt shaft end in regular copier paper to see if it could work without fouling the body. I could have made it thicker it turns out. A lot of pieces per drive wheel ~70 & not a lot of guidance but they could look really good in expert hands. Not too far off getting the running gear mounted now, provided nothing else slows me down. I think I'm getting the hang of it, & am learning more about the tolerances of paper - which is far greater than I'd imagined when building the 'exact' parts from Halinski. |
#52
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Quote:
Model continues to come together nicely.
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Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere, not detail. later, F Scott W |
#53
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Quote:
Yeah the health & $$$ is an issue for me too. & talking of bucket-list stuff, I found this a while back MiG-29 flights (not the URL I found as that was a direct link to the factory & from $7k to $16k IIRC depending how much you wanted to do). Once you get a Western Tour Operator in the picture, the price shoots up like a MiG on afterburners A little progress - a rolling chassis on the horizon. I tried with a couple of methods:
I ended up removing one pair of links, which wasn't fun, in order to get a less droopy feel, a qualified T34 Tankist would know that such a loose track would quickly be thrown. This meant I used 34 pairs per side in the end. Might stick some of the left-overs on the body as spares or armor... |
#54
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A few little additions.
Got the hub domes fitted & started on the exhausts as I begin building the details on the hull. Paint will be needed to patch up the petals as the number & fine gauge cannot help to show the many white edges (at least at my skill level ). |
#55
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Coming along nicely
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#56
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Thanks maestro Johnny
I've had few spare minutes to begin adding detail to the hull. This has led to me wondering what it is that I am adding. This meant a fair amount of searching thru books & websites, without success, until I found a Russian T-34 reference, which helpfully had some original drawings & item specific information. Having assembled [73] I discovered they are actually jacking blocks & the original 1940 blueprint shows them mounted at a different angle, it also shows the positions of the needed straps. Decided to copy the drawing not the model instructions The jack assembly is [100-113] I think. (Not started that yet). I've been so used to seeing the iconic cylindrical tanks mounted on Russian armor for decades of development, [143] surprised me by turning out to be the original external fuel tank design. [60]+ I started work on the hull-front MG sponson. [74]+ is the toolbox. Haven't gotten around to building that one yet. I did manage to begin mounting things, as the pictures show, still plenty of tiny pieces ahead tho! I found a translated to English T-34 users manual for anyone that would like to have a look. T-34 users manual <8mb Last edited by hirondelle; 12-08-2019 at 12:18 PM. |
#57
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Had chance to fold the 'moths' into brackets [63-69].
Started whittling a match stick for the bar but decided the wood is too poor/irregular & so am going to roll a solid cylinder I can cut to length. I chose a lightweight newsprint-type paper for this. The toolbox is slightly mis-marked, the circled bend line is around 0.5-1mm too short from the corner, the other bends match up OK. |
#58
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Multiple surgeries later (incl. botched one...some people need to improve their knife-skills! ) I am finally picking up the knives again to do some cutting myself.
Fully intend to get this tank finished, like me it's had a loooooong break collecting dust. Unsurprisingly it is all the small & tricky parts that need doing. I decided to try the hinges [44] for the engine cover - these have a hefty 1mm circle to attach at each end. Managed to roll the tubes & get the end disks attached. Much like the towing hitches these are surprisingly convincing as parts once made up (despite my hiatus, which has made them & the pics less stellar than I'd like!). Moved on to the lamps, more petals (!) & tail lamp. Front lamps will need paint to tidy them up I think. I tried a punch for the circular parts [84, 85] helpfully this ripped the paper instead of going thru. Blunt or just me? Probably both. Made up another equipment box [80-83] & have tried to add wire loops to the tool box. Decided to try some brush pens for edge coloring, we'll see how that works out. Generally I am seeing what the designer intended & I think I am learning some useful skills, even if this tank arrives too late to see much action |
#59
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Built & fitted the drivers hatch [47-56].
[47] needs a [47b] a usable draft of which I will add to the errata sheet at some point. The viewport has presented a problem as it isn't built/shown correctly on GPMs model cover/website pics (image 10) & the instructions ain't clear. I made a [47b] to fill the gap under the port after studying real 1940 model info & adapting the parts positioning accordingly (see 1st & 2nd pic). The viewport needs some forward POV not 99% upwards as is shown by the GPM build/cover image. The 2 periscope viewports [54] are huge, but look cool once fitted. The hinge is just a tight roll, [55-56] (tho it could have been made to function as with the tracks). I decided to have the hatch partly raised. If building with it closed I think the [46c] **card could be omitted. |
#60
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Attempted the Combat Cake Stand, AKA Domkrat, which when not serving pirashki, doubles as a jack. [100-111]
The instructions don't make it super clear which way up conical [108] goes & the size of the white place-marks doesn't match the diameter of the real part so I was lucky to have an illustration to reference. Turns out shaky hands aren't great for exact / small cuts. But despite how they look with the magnification of the camera, they aren't horrible to the naked eye. |
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