#11
|
||||
|
||||
Keeping in mind you are working with "paper" which is soluble when wet.
Paper absorbs things and is thinner, less rigid, and less supportive than molded plastic. You need to adjust your application techniques, the types of paint, the use of primers and base paints to avoid over saturation or the breakdown of the paper/card structure. Its all about experimentation.
__________________
SUPPORT ME PLEASE: PaperModelShop Or, my models at ecardmodels: Dave'sCardCreations |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
What kind of paint would you recommend for as a primer and base colors for a paper model? Or better to ask, what would you not recommend?
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
In case you are asking me...
I wouldn't really recommend any paint since I am a "paper purist". I prefer to design the colouring, weathering and textures into the model for printing. Generally I don't paint my models afterwards. But I have airbrushed at least two models. My 1/16 scale Centurion Tank and my 1/16 scale Saladin Armoured Car. When I was designing the Saladin model, I decided to change the overall colour and shading of the parts. But this was after I had already built the lower Hull sections. This meant the Turret did not match properly. So I airbrushed some darker shading on the Hull to make it match the new colours. I just didn't want to rebuild the entire lower section! I used Golden Acrylic Airbrush-Ready Paint for that. Its very thin and watery...I applied it sparingly, building up the layers and strength of colour. I avoid spraying heavy and allowing a wet layer to build ...the paint is virtually dry when it hits the surface. On the Centurion, I just added some panel shading with a dark green mix, again using the same Golden Acrylics Airbrush-Ready paints. I have Createx Airbrush Acrylics...which I would also choose for this work. But Createx acrylics require some learning and experience to work properly. Its a lot thicker paint, requiring different airbrush technique...and it doesn't think well. Its a water based paint, but water isn't the right choice for thinning. I'm guessing any Model Acrylic is a good choice. You just need to know how to use the product. I used to do a lot of automotive paint work and for that I use solvent based paints. If I still had solvent based paint handy, I would have used that too. Because once again, the airbrush atomizes the paint, so its basically dry once it touches the surface. As long as you apply in light coats and don't lay down a heavy wet layer. Biggest issue with solvent based paints (enamels, lacquers, etc) is their toxicity. use only in a well ventilated area. Paper is absorbent and receptive to any kind of paint...so if you are airbrushing, you can use anything. Its more about the technique and how you spray. If you are brush painting, then its more about the paint and how it flows. If you plan on applying a heavier, solid brush coat of paint, you will probably need primer to help avoid saturating the paper and making it soft and soluble. Surface putty would also protect the card from the wet paint. But as I said before, you are now getting into the area of "mixed media" and not a "paper" model any more. Not my area of expertise.
__________________
SUPPORT ME PLEASE: PaperModelShop Or, my models at ecardmodels: Dave'sCardCreations Last edited by airdave; 03-04-2018 at 12:15 PM. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Airdave, thank you for the helpful answer. I do not have airbrush, only regular brushes. The thing that worries me is that the paper may get wet, of course.
I read some other threads, and saw that people tend to cover their model sheets (before even cutting the pieces) with lacquer. Basically, it should be a hair spray we also used to fixate charcoal drawings. I though about applied it evenly on both sides, just to assure some protection once the paint comes. So it would be: - layer of hairspring (both sides) - primer (thicker acrylic paint) - base color (acrylic) - weathering layers Waiting for my GPM Opel Blitz 1:25 model to arrive, so I can start experimenting. |
|
|