Sturmtiger 280mm Rocket Shell...My First build and (real) post!

[Kendo]

Hello!

I was writing some long story on my background, but will spare everyone.

I just got into paper military models and found this site. On here I saw that WAK had a free model of the "380mm Shell for Sturmtiger" and I had just ordered a Sturmtiger from Ebay so that was very fortunate!

I did a search to see if anyone had a build thread, but didn't find anything (maybe it's my being a novice, so apologies if that is the case).

Here's my first attempt...please feel free to comment or advise and sorry if I've done anything really stupid...I'm learning while also using some skills from years of building cardboard rocket kits (I love launching them!).

Step 1: Download, print and get supplies ready!

[Kendo]

I had printed the item on regular letter paper, but that seemed too thin, so I used a glue stick and some thin cardstock as backer (the glue stick didn't have much "stick" and so I tried an "Extreme" glue stick).

I then cut the circles with scissors, but made sure to first cut out the center of the bottom rim with a knife first (after would be more difficult and more likely to tear the paper ring).

There's also a very (in my inexperienced opinion) tiny '1c' piece that is the center of the shell bottom (primer?) that I cut out with a knife...that was very hard to do! In this pic the knife is pointing to it being cut out.

[Kendo]

For the rest of the parts, I felt that that a cardstock backing may be too stiff to bend and curve another sheet of regular paper would be sufficient, so I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive this time.

I then curled the shell body and glued it at the seam.

Then I test fit the shell bottom (good fit, but BIG MISTAKE coming!) and also curved some of the banding pieces. For the bands, I tried a colored pencil on the edges, but it didn't seem to work so well. In the future I'll try markers.

So far I'm pretty happy with results so far... (cue ominous music)

[Kendo]

I found the "1D" upper shell support piece to be too thin even with the cardstock backing, so I then also added cardboard backing. This is because that top center disk will be supporting the upper shell and also be a base for the top of the rounded shell cone.

I then glued on the two lower bands and figured I'd leave the upper one off until after I put on the cone since that part may be tricky.

I also cut out the very top part of the cone...more tiny cuts! I have a magnifier I use for assembling rocketry electronics, but didn't think to use it. Part of the joy for me here is just doing it on the table tray in front of the television.

[Kendo]

Next I cut out all the upper cone parts, curled them around a toothpick and also glued on a small piece of extra paper to form a tab. The '5' piece at the top of the cone is so small! Haha! The hole on top fits very well with a regular toothpick, which I'll be using as the fuse, so I glued that through and used extra glue to support it. This also proved handy to use to maneuver the pieces into place if gluing the bands in reverse order (top downwards).

Side Note:

I started using Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue since I've been using that for years on my rocket builds and I found it's great on paper and cardstock/cardboard, the bottle squeezes nicely (the Eileen's Tacky Glue bottle [which I haven't used before] to me was much too stiff for controlled application), and using a tip from their regular White glue instead of the large wide slot tip that it usually comes with, I can apply a very small steady line of glue. Picture of the glue bottle will be in the finished pics.

At this point or so, I also glued on the top disk 1d. (see the problem?)

Next I test fit the bottom cone piece and it fit wonderfully! All's great!

[Kendo]

On each of the cone "bands", I added a bead of glue to the inside edges to form a step of sorts so the top band would be supported and wouldn't fall down/through. This worked well for me.

I then glued on the cone and it looked great until I looked over everything...I had glued on some of the parts on the wrong end!

Now you would think how can someone do that...I mean it's only two colors and you match up the colors, right? Well, in my defense...

• The instructions don't actually note which part goes on which end...
• The instruction pictures are in black and white...
• However the biggest reason for me is that through my personal experience/exposure my mind naturally thought the brass color was the shell casing/bottom.

So I then started "ungluing". Luckily for me, it went fairly well with minimal damage. I actually had the cone assembled and glued nicely at this point and it did get a bit dinged and ripped, but nothing too bad.

[Kendo]

Here's a pic of the shell "fixed" and glued back together. Not bad in my opinion!

At this "point", I tackled the tip...the instructions showed a two-step with a flat tip and I tried that first; however in my initial research I found most pictures of a conical tip with no step.

Later I found another version with the stepped tip, but in the end decided I prefer the same as the shell I saw pictured in front of a Sturmtiger at a museum, so I used a knife to whittle the top down to a point.

[Kendo]

I then used a fine top black marker to color a band around the sharpened tip to match the photo I saw. Here's the finished item along with the Wood Glue I like to use.

I also tried markers and pencils on white edges I saw, but it didn't turn out so well. I should do much better on my next one and I'll also cut within the lines on colored parts so there isn't a black outline edge.

I really liked this build and want to thank WAK for providing it free.

Now I feel like making some buildings to throw the shell against!

[rifleman]

have to say well done great photo post as well

[Philip]

There's some very nice building going on here!

Regarding edge colouring, I've found colouring pencils next to useless. I've used felt tips with good success, but taking the example of some folks here I've discovered how a simple tin of assorted watercolours can come in very handy. With a fine brush you can get into the tightest corners. Also, it will take to the surface of both white PVA and contact glue. Hope this is of some help, and keep up the good work.