Halinski PzKpfw II Ausf C 1:25

[CharlieC]

Originally Posted by Golden Bear

Sure Charlie. But they are rather closely associated... and that Tiger is a heavy beast of a model also.

It's a bit more complicated - I had exactly that problem with the old Bug T-70 - this was a pretty light model. I think it's a function of the contact area for the hull side of the swing arms and the weight of the model. Interestingly this problem didn't appear in the Pz 1F model - mostly because the hull attachment of the swing arms was fairly large - that had problems with the roadwheel axles breaking off the end of the swing arms (much smaller contact area).

Regards,

Charlie

ps. I saw elsewhere that this build of the Pz II was going to have rivets. The Pz II had a welded hull - no rivets. (the Germans learned about the dangers of riveted hulls in the Spanish civil war).

[cgutzmer]

cool, thanks

[cgutzmer]

Update and question:

Question first - How much detail do you put on before moving on? I ask because say part 3 is a part of the skin. On part 3 it has 3a, 3b, 3c and 3d - they are some detail parts. Do you pretty much stick to doing it right in numerical sequence or hold all the details until the end? I am tempted to follow it in numerical order just cause.....

The pics! I got most of the skin on and I am cutting out some of the armor plating now. The skin went on pretty much without a hitch.
Chris

[CharlieC]

Originally Posted by cgutzmer

Update and question:

Question first - How much detail do you put on before moving on? I ask because say part 3 is a part of the skin. On part 3 it has 3a, 3b, 3c and 3d - they are some detail parts. Do you pretty much stick to doing it right in numerical sequence or hold all the details until the end? I am tempted to follow it in numerical order just cause.....

Chris

That's a really good question - I wish I had a general and comprehensive rule that you apply to make this easy. My view is to add detail as you go except if adding the detail will cause problems with the rest of the build. For example I wouldn't add a radio aerial until the end because that part is so easy to damage when you are building the rest of the model. I guess it comes down to part by part assessment of when to add parts.

Regards,

Charlie

[cgutzmer]

Thanks Charlie! Gonna make me use my judgement - gonna get me in trouble
Chris

Oh yeah - it also looks like there are some rivets on the tank. Just in a couple spots though. I will have to double check.....
Chris

[CharlieC]

Originally Posted by cgutzmer

Oh yeah - it also looks like there are some rivets on the tank. Just in a couple spots though. I will have to double check.....
Chris

Do you mean the bolt heads from the applique armour? like -
http://maquettegarden.free.fr/Vehicu..._frames.html?8

Might be easier to emboss these.

Regards,

Charlie

[cgutzmer]

Yep! Thats probably what they are
Thanks again! :D
Chris

[Johnny]

Making the swingarms and other parts that belongs to that area out of hollow tubes is a disaster.....such parts doesn't take much handeling before they are broken....
I faced the same problem on the Greif,the chi-ha and now the luchs.
On the chiha I reinforced all such parts with 4mm wooden rods to make the parts strong enough to be touched by my clumsy hands

I will have to come up with the same solution for the luchs.

And for your turret Chris!! You just remove the part K13 and attach it to the bottom of your turret,just make it so much longer that it goes completely below the hole in the hull.Problem solved and you have a movable turret!

[CharlieC]

Perhaps there is some crosstalk occurring with the Pz IIL build thread?

My 2c worth - another way of reinforcing tubular parts is to use a tightly rolled 80 gsm paper cylinder - if you start with a 1mm wire as mandrel you can get a nearly solid paper rod. The advantage is that you make the rod exactly the correct size to fit into the tube part you're reinforcing. It's also easier to shape the ends of the reinforcing paper rod compared to carving a wooden dowel.

Regards,

Charlie

[Clashster]

Looks great, Chris! Great photos to keep us up to date!!!! Keep em coming!