#11
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What a great find mike!
it would be useful for making window framing in small-ish scale buildings or something big like this one: Scalescenes.com - R005a Large Overall Roof
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#12
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Quote:
Obviously we know it doesn't go "transparent" ...but its an option if you don't demand completely see-thru parts. Dope is primarily used to shrink the "skin" which has been laid over a frame. But I guess if you used thin, no-colour tissue...with a clear dope... I would argue that it isn't paper any more...since dope is plasticized lacquer. (But now, I'm going to start an argument regarding inks and glues that aren't paper either.) Another problem would be cutting out, forming and gluing a canopy from flimsy tissue paper and then having it hold its shape while you apply the dope...? Unless maybe you build a framework inside your canopy ...but then you wouldn't want a clear canopy, because you will be able to see the framework! lol So, you could use opaque paper instead...that would make it hard to see the framework... and then...
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#13
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well there is the push molding technique I use, picnic clear plates work, you can go really thin or thick. wood positives work well, say for a canopy, cut and sand the wood into shape, leave a screw or dowel in the back to push with. get some furniture foam and a heat gun. even a hair dryer will work, heat the plate up over the foam and then ram the positive in and hold. pop it off and trim. I have had problems with dry ink smearing on metallic paper and clear transparencies. yes as Mboaur said, the clear labels work, and the ink doesn't smear as easily but you get that stick on snap together decal look. if you trim the piece to the ink though it turns out ok. I know that rice paper can dry clear with glue. but its been years so I don't really know now, you might want to try it. that's all I know about this. I have been very happy with my push molded domes. and I side with the paper purists on keeping paper models paper as much as possible. even wires or varnished string for spokes on tiny wheels bug me. I admire the skill of it, but there has to be a way to make it paper..... I am still looking for a worbly like sheet that I can push mold larger than 5'' of pieces that can simulate a vacuuform type model, a plastic paper that's cheap. sorry for being on my soap box, but that's me, a needle of info in a hay stack of ego.
lol. |
#14
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Transparency film. There actually is an affordable place to purchase it from and that is Walmart. They often have closeout deals on it. For instance when I looked today they had laser transparency film 50 sheets for just under $11.00 with free shipping if you arrange to pick it up at the store.
If you are going to get the inkjet version I would spend the extra money for the quick drying version. There is no cost savings if you smudge the parts. I like the laser printer version for creating miniature clear leaded windows on buildings as it leaves a raised surface where it prints. I always put that side facing out. But one thing to note, it is not the easiest stuff to glue, I have done some glue test on it. The super glues that say they are OK for plastic work and Crafter's Pick "The Ultimate" works. What does not stick is Elmer's, Tacky glue and some of the other PVA glues. If you are heading to Walmart and have never tried it go to the crafts section and grab a bottle of "The Ultimate" glue It is pretty handy stuff to have around the house. It can be used as a contact cement. It has the right amount of open time for my personal paper modeling preference. True of any water based glue it works best if at least one surface is porous. |
#15
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I save any likely piece of clear packaging material. It comes in very thin to thick, almost rigid stuff. It is free. Works well.
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