#1
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Help with the type of glue required
Hi Folks
I have been reading a number of forums, and related articles about the type of glue required. I see plan white glue is the standard, but when it comes to CA (super glues) is it better to use a Gap-Filling type or a non Gap-filling type. I am unsure if the brand is good, but I believe 15 years ago I used INSTA-CURE Gap Filling ca glue for Balsa wood airplane models; however, I noticed INSTA-CURE offers a SUPER THIN formula. Does anyone have any experience with such types? Is there an application or project the two types would work better for? I could be wrong, but I suspect the Super Thin formula would be great if you wanted to laminate multiple sheets together, to build up thickness. Thanks. |
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#2
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Hello,
Well first of all to each his own. I guess there is probably around 100,000 words posted about glues on the various forums. As I work almost exclusively in 1:250 or smaller, I prefer to use thinned white glue for attaching ship hulls and the like ie, large complex curves. I use gel superglue for attaching everything else. For laminating, I use stick glue. I use liquid or thin CA only to reinforce certain bonds or small parts due to its excellent wicking properties. But again, it depends upon what your building. Kind Regards, Cris |
#3
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@Hi-Torque
I understand what you say, and by no means was I trying to corner anyone into siding on the ultimate glue; however, I respect your opinions as with everyone else’s opinions. I see what you mean – it because a question and answers as to what is the best ‘tool for the job’. I appreciate your time to answer my post – I am just trying to get a sense of direction since I have no clue as to where to start, yet I want to do some scaled models. Thank you, JJ |
#4
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Hello Again,
Well then! The best way to go about that is to start Just find a simple subject you like and experiment with what works best for you. You will find lots of help here. Hmmm, what are you interested in? Kind Regards, Cris |
#5
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Regardless what you use remember that CA glue is not all the same. Only a very small percentage will work with paper. I have found CA glue that says it works on paper and doesn't. Locktite works if it says so on the bottle.
Also Aileen's tacky glue is great because it doesn't wet the paper hardly at all and it is easy to get off if you get a spot where you don't want it to be.
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Tim Hinds "Oh wisdom thou are fled to brutish beasts and men have lost their reason" (Bill Shakespear) |
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#6
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JJ,
Everybody has favorite glues. What works for one person doesn't have to work for another, even if they are building the same model... I use the following glues: - Beacon 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue - all large surfaces, including laminating formers - TOMBO Mono Aqua liquid glue - almost everything else - Loctite Super Glue Ultra gel Control - small parts that require very strong bond, plus all non-paper parts
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Constructive criticism of my builds is welcome - if I messed up and allowed others to see it, I certainly deserve it Michael Krol |
#7
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@Everyone
Thank you all for your support and help on this matter. I guess I just need to take the plunge and start trying different methods. JJ |
#8
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I'm new to paper modelling too and one of the problems I is when trying to line parts up to glue them any mismatch or mistake and either the part is gled in the wrong place or I get glue where it is not wanted.
Sooooooo following a trick I saw here on the forum I use white PVA. A very light smear on both surfaces to be attached, then wait for it to dry. Once dry I can play with the parts with no risk of gettingglue everywhere. When I am happy with the placement I hold it in place with a small paperclip or clamp then with a small artists brush I just touch the joint with a little water. Not sure how it works but the water reactivates the glue and the job is done without any need to touch the part till the glue is dry. Typing on my mobile hence the mistakes grrrrrrr. |
#9
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i use thin ca (insta cure super thin) for hardening paper and card. you have to be careful though, ca can smear the ink of your printed model. i use thick ca (zap thick ca) for gap filling and when i need a few seconds to position parts. i don't use pva glue much since it doesn't have the strength of ca and also because it stays rubbery and can't be sanded.
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#10
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Karl - god idea!
I use.... a) White PVA for most gluing - just make certain that you only use a little - I put it on and then smear off the excess. Put some glue on a piece of scrap and use a cocktail stick or wooden barbque?kebab stick to apply and smear. b) Pritt Glue Stick when the part is difficult to position. It has a slower gluing time and you can move the parts a bit. c) Super Glue for tiny parts. Generally Super Gel. Again the later dries a bit slower. |
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