#21
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I like "HP Everyday Photo Paper, Matte" which is slightly thicker than normal paper.
It lets me use my printer's photo quality settings, which results in higher dpi output and better color reproduction. Although glossy paper would be even better in dpi and color, it's... glossy and hard to fold. The paper's stats are: 6.5 mil, 135 g/m2, 36lb. Cheers! |
#22
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Yo willygoat, come on Coach. I have found that if I follow him real close but I do keep a ear open always. But I'll say this much, every time I stray I really pay. I use 65 lb and 110 lb. from Syaples. I have a hard time finding paper at any stores around me and I live next door to San Francisco and I would think there should a ton of places to buy. This is not the case. I will have to start ordering and I was hoping some one could steer me to who or what they use. Thanks guys. Willygoat, wake up man. wc
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#23
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Howdy, y'all!
Living in the "Old World", I tend to use plain office / copy paper (80 grams / sq. mtr.) for tiny parts, and (more often) 160 grams / sq. mtr. (twice the thickness of plain office / copy paper) for most purposes; most of my models are H0-scale (1/87), and they include vehicles, buildings and some airplanes. If and when I need sturdier parts (e.g. formers), I laminate them to whatever I can find (for free), like any kind of cardboard packing material, and if and when I need something REAL thin, like airplane markings to be used on a surface that's been covered with aluminum foil, I stick some cigarette paper to given, pre-defined fields on a piece of copy paper and then print whatever it may be. If and when I need clear material for windows, I use whatever I can get; for H0-scale vehicles, I often use the clear wrapping of cigarette boxes (disclaimer for reasons of political correctness: SMOKING IS BAD FOR YOUR HEALTH AND THE HEALTH FOR THOSE AROUND YOU! SMOKING CAUSES SEVERE LUNG AND HEART DISEASES! SMOKING CAUSES CANCER! etc.) or overhead foil if it needs to be on the rigid side; a few square inches go a long way at that scale! If and when I need something stiff, yet flexible, that conducts electricity, as for illuminating something using LEDs, I sometimes use cut-up beer cans (politically incorrect, but I don't like all 'em cokes ...); over here, some are still made from steel rather than aluminum, and those I can easily solder - couldn't get much better, really! Hmmm ... all that ain't paper, though ... Apart from that, I agree with airdave ... "best paper is anything that is not plastic" ... ;-) Just my two cents ... -Tex |
#24
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IMHO the best paper for modeling has a Halinski kit printed on it....
Jim Nunn
__________________
There is a very fine line between paper modeling and mental illness. |
#25
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This is a really good question...
Since I desperately hate edge-coloring, with a blinding, driving, passion.... I tend to use full-color papers. I've found that the Color Mates 65 lb cover (177 gsm) color stock are excellent for everything I do. They take a clean score line for folds, they take curves well with Shrike's Roly-Styk, and best of all, there's literally hundreds of colors available, so that when you cut a part out, the edge is the same color all the way through. I lately have found that the Core'dinations ColorCore cardstock is pretty good as well, except that I can only find it in 12" x 12" sheets, and they all have a textured side. In other words, only one side is smooth. That really doesn't matter much, except when you screw up a page of parts, you can't flip the thing over and print the corrected version on the other side. They have hundreds of good colors too. If you can find it, some craft/scrapbooking/art websites have packages that you can order that are basically color swatches, so that you can match colors if you need to. |
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#26
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I happen to be a creature of convenience. What ever stock I can find at a good price I tend to get. I have an Office Max just down the road from my house. This is very dangerous. Currently, I really like the Office Max 67# "White Bristol" and the GP 110# card stock. I tried the Office Max 110# stock once, and I didn't like it as much. I'd like to eventually get it so that both weights are of the same brand so that I could mix the weights into a model a bit better (color of stock, print quality etc), but I can never seem to find a 67# in the GP. 65# yes, but I don't like it as much for some reason. Hmmmm.
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#27
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Advantage of 160 grams non-glossy paper: printer ink soaks into the paper, so the colour is not damaged by bending. With glossy paper, the ink lies on top of the hard surface, so that it easily flakes or smudges. I go to a professional printer and ask for their usual offset paper.
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#28
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I very much like the paper HMV uses, and always keep any blank spare pages for special printing projects. Very fine surface texture (matt), very good ink retention, wonderful to work with. And of course printing methods make a world of difference - nothing beats a proper commercial offset-printed model on good paper (hello again, HMV), and for home and other printing I really prefer inkjet over laser. Once built the laserprinted edition of an otherwise nice Möwe-kit, but all the ink just crumbled off the small parts.
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Recently finished: St. Peter's & Vatican - 1:3900 - Micromodels |
#29
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Quote:
Last edited by Firewing; 03-30-2015 at 10:21 PM. |
#30
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Gretings:
Vermin_King Miles Linnabery Papercaptain SCEtoAUX ringmaster mbauer glounsbury Kevin WS RYSKK Thomas Meek Thomas Meek herky Zakopious Wad Cutter airdave RunwayOneSixRight Paper Kosmonaut Lrjanzen legal01 RYSKK trainfanM Wad Cutter Tex Jim Nunn lancer525 willygoat Diderick A. den Bakker Marco Gentlemen thank you for taking the time and the courtesy to reply to my question |
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