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Old 04-19-2014, 12:46 PM
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trainfanM trainfanM is offline
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I like "HP Everyday Photo Paper, Matte" which is slightly thicker than normal paper.

It lets me use my printer's photo quality settings, which results in higher dpi output and better color reproduction. Although glossy paper would be even better in dpi and color, it's... glossy and hard to fold.

The paper's stats are: 6.5 mil, 135 g/m2, 36lb.

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Old 04-19-2014, 12:56 PM
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Wad Cutter Wad Cutter is offline
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Yo willygoat, come on Coach. I have found that if I follow him real close but I do keep a ear open always. But I'll say this much, every time I stray I really pay. I use 65 lb and 110 lb. from Syaples. I have a hard time finding paper at any stores around me and I live next door to San Francisco and I would think there should a ton of places to buy. This is not the case. I will have to start ordering and I was hoping some one could steer me to who or what they use. Thanks guys. Willygoat, wake up man. wc
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:12 PM
Tex Tex is offline
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Howdy, y'all!
Living in the "Old World", I tend to use plain office / copy paper (80 grams / sq. mtr.) for tiny parts, and (more often) 160 grams / sq. mtr. (twice the thickness of plain office / copy paper) for most purposes; most of my models are H0-scale (1/87), and they include vehicles, buildings and some airplanes. If and when I need sturdier parts (e.g. formers), I laminate them to whatever I can find (for free), like any kind of cardboard packing material, and if and when I need something REAL thin, like airplane markings to be used on a surface that's been covered with aluminum foil, I stick some cigarette paper to given, pre-defined fields on a piece of copy paper and then print whatever it may be.
If and when I need clear material for windows, I use whatever I can get; for H0-scale vehicles, I often use the clear wrapping of cigarette boxes (disclaimer for reasons of political correctness: SMOKING IS BAD FOR YOUR HEALTH AND THE HEALTH FOR THOSE AROUND YOU! SMOKING CAUSES SEVERE LUNG AND HEART DISEASES! SMOKING CAUSES CANCER! etc.) or overhead foil if it needs to be on the rigid side; a few square inches go a long way at that scale!
If and when I need something stiff, yet flexible, that conducts electricity, as for illuminating something using LEDs, I sometimes use cut-up beer cans (politically incorrect, but I don't like all 'em cokes ...); over here, some are still made from steel rather than aluminum, and those I can easily solder - couldn't get much better, really!
Hmmm ... all that ain't paper, though ...
Apart from that, I agree with airdave ... "best paper is anything that is not plastic" ... ;-)
Just my two cents ...
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Old 04-19-2014, 11:03 PM
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Jim Nunn Jim Nunn is offline
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IMHO the best paper for modeling has a Halinski kit printed on it....

Jim Nunn
There is a very fine line between paper modeling and mental illness.
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Old 04-20-2014, 06:08 PM
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lancer525 lancer525 is offline
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This is a really good question...

Since I desperately hate edge-coloring, with a blinding, driving, passion.... I tend to use full-color papers. I've found that the Color Mates 65 lb cover (177 gsm) color stock are excellent for everything I do. They take a clean score line for folds, they take curves well with Shrike's Roly-Styk, and best of all, there's literally hundreds of colors available, so that when you cut a part out, the edge is the same color all the way through.

I lately have found that the Core'dinations ColorCore cardstock is pretty good as well, except that I can only find it in 12" x 12" sheets, and they all have a textured side. In other words, only one side is smooth. That really doesn't matter much, except when you screw up a page of parts, you can't flip the thing over and print the corrected version on the other side. They have hundreds of good colors too.

If you can find it, some craft/scrapbooking/art websites have packages that you can order that are basically color swatches, so that you can match colors if you need to.
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:44 PM
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willygoat willygoat is offline
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I happen to be a creature of convenience. What ever stock I can find at a good price I tend to get. I have an Office Max just down the road from my house. This is very dangerous. Currently, I really like the Office Max 67# "White Bristol" and the GP 110# card stock. I tried the Office Max 110# stock once, and I didn't like it as much. I'd like to eventually get it so that both weights are of the same brand so that I could mix the weights into a model a bit better (color of stock, print quality etc), but I can never seem to find a 67# in the GP. 65# yes, but I don't like it as much for some reason. Hmmmm.
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Old 04-21-2014, 01:50 AM
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Diderick A. den Bakker Diderick A. den Bakker is offline
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Advantage of 160 grams non-glossy paper: printer ink soaks into the paper, so the colour is not damaged by bending. With glossy paper, the ink lies on top of the hard surface, so that it easily flakes or smudges. I go to a professional printer and ask for their usual offset paper.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:30 AM
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Marco Marco is offline
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I very much like the paper HMV uses, and always keep any blank spare pages for special printing projects. Very fine surface texture (matt), very good ink retention, wonderful to work with. And of course printing methods make a world of difference - nothing beats a proper commercial offset-printed model on good paper (hello again, HMV), and for home and other printing I really prefer inkjet over laser. Once built the laserprinted edition of an otherwise nice Möwe-kit, but all the ink just crumbled off the small parts.
Recently finished:
Hanse Kogge 1:72 Shipyard lasercut
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:04 PM
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Firewing Firewing is offline
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Originally Posted by Thomas Meek View Post
I suggest that you purchase and build several pre printed models from different publishers. You will like the paper of some of them, and not like others. This will help- you to make your choice.

I use a variety of papers, depending on the use; sometimes two or three different papers in a single model, but my "default" paper is

Domtar "Cougar" 65lb(176gm/m) white smooth cover.
Thank you for the councel ... the truth is that I have twelve years designing and constructing paper models, I have tried with several type and brands, and personally I prefer working with opaline carboard or matt Couché of 180 or 200 gm, I have export commercial motives. and this is the reason of my question, exploring the paper of preference of the different builders... In these things it orders the choice of the majority, I like very much the models of MODELART and its paper that in my country is known as 0.10 0r 0.12mm duplex cardboard

Last edited by Firewing; 03-30-2015 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:31 PM
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Firewing Firewing is offline
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Miles Linnabery
Kevin WS
Thomas Meek
Thomas Meek
Wad Cutter
Paper Kosmonaut
Wad Cutter
Jim Nunn
Diderick A. den Bakker

Gentlemen thank you for taking the time and the courtesy to reply to my question
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