#31
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Amen brother. I just have too add my 2 cents! I remember well Comet, better yet, how about a Cleveland kit, if you could build one of these you had a scale, that is a scale aircraft that after what seemed like a 1000 hours to build, you dared not try to fly, favorite, Hudson Bomber. Now after many years, balsa, banana oil, Japanese tissue, material of the purest, one day I would discover a Proctor Kit, now we have gone from the basic to the multi-material, 1:1 scale aircraft. Quite a difference between this and the basic builds. Don't get me wrong, as what has been said already, what ever floats your boat and brother I use what ever it takes to ride the waves!!!!!! I have done both, laser cut and the lamination/cut, now I have seen Masters cut out a ladder @ 1:250 that looked like a PE part, for me it will be a PE part as long as they are available. I can not cut such a detail out, but I do want it present on the build. Here is an example, 1/72 Paper Sub, purchase and downloaded, $150.00 worth of brass details and other material. Now does it take all the extras to build this sub, no it does not, but the detail parts I purchased can not be made by my fingers to the look and quality of the after market items. See the same issue about that plastic word vs paper!Rick
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#32
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Interesting question...again. This issue comes up a couple of times a year I guess
I know I can cut formers,so that's not why I use laserparts as often as I can. Laserframes/parts/tracks costs money,so for some it might be a money issue not to use them. I like to use laserparts....and I'm proud of it The models looks better (at least mine does....) Building tracks is a bit easier when bulding individual tracks.I guess I will never again buy a model without lasertracks. But I don't think it's cheating using laserparts. |
#33
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There are three reasons I will use laser cut parts:
To me, the first and third items above are labor and hand savers and do not affect the true ability of the builder to build a good model. Item two and photoetch part use, though should not and cannot really mask poor building ability (especially if building for a contest). A well built model with no extras almost always beats a superdetailed glue blob any day. Greg
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In dry dock: ? In factory: CWS T-1. In hanger: Fokker triplanes? under construction: ? |
#34
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Nice topic Bomarc,
Here's my 0,02€ :D What i like about papermodeling is that the builder decides how much money , time and effort he wants to spent.. if you want the lasercut parts, You'll have to pay, when you use "other' materials for canopies, wheels etc, it's your own choise, Someone who is starting can build the most simple version of a model , while a more expirienced builder can take a model to a high level. Papermodels will never replace plastic models, it's just another ballgame,and I realy do not mind that you can see that a papermodel is made out of paper :D I think that papermodels need more creativety from the builder, I've seen some plastic models that are just stunning, but they take other skills. |
#35
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As an aside, this thread inspired me to buy my first set of laser cut parts, for an Orlik Albatros B.1. That'll save me from going crosseyed cutting out wing ribs, of which, true to Orlik practice, there are a lot of, and scrapping the whole thing when I fail to cut out perfectly round wheel rims and spacers.
Wyvern |
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#36
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Quote:
I'm going to remember that one..... Mike
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"I learned long ago, never to wrestle with a pig. You get dirty, and besides, the pig likes it." - George Bernard Shaw |
#37
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I can't help thinking there are people out there with arthritis or other problems that have difficulty cutting out parts. Anything that makes our hobby more accessible to more people seems like a good thing to me.
Wayne |
#38
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It's all Homeade, Thats what matters!
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#39
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I bought an Orlik airplane SPECIFICALLY because it had laser cut formers.
I want to build models; whatever saves time replacing otherwise repetitive chores is fine by me and worth the cost.
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Maj Charles Davenport, USAF (Ret) |
#40
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Sorry I ment, to say Handmade.
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