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  #21  
Old 02-09-2008, 08:10 PM
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shrike shrike is offline
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Like I said in one of the previous installments this one has been pretty much falling together. After the one set of bulkheads being a bit off, everything else so far has gone together without any real problems.

If I'm going to nit-pick (and I am, for educational purposes, if nothing else) the gun-troughs are a bit off. The skin shows cut-outs to the edge, but the leading former doesn't have any notches. They are supposed to taper out to flat by the leading edge, but there should either be clearance slots or the trough cut-outs should end 1mm away from the end of the skin section. A little dab of silver sharpie and the guns themselves will hide anything that's left. I think that's one that falls into the 'challenge' rather than the 'problem' category.

The tail feathers turned out well. A little misalignment shows in the FFMM that's my fault. I could have taken a little more time trimming to fit, especially as they have no fairings to cover any booboos.



So far I have to repeat my assertion that Bohdan Wasiak just doesn't like jets<g>
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  #22  
Old 02-09-2008, 08:44 PM
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Except for the date, t looks a lot like the cover from 1998.... http://www.geoghegan.us/p35/geog/Modelik_P-35_Cover.jpg
I went and pulled mine from the archive and think the colors are improved (as well as the fit in problem areas). This thread is making me rethink some of the Modelik models in my stash -- especially the Texaco Oil delivery truck that I bought around the same time as the P-35 -- tho' I think that one was an early CAD design. Beautiful tho....
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Last edited by DrBill; 02-09-2008 at 08:51 PM.
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  #23  
Old 02-09-2008, 08:48 PM
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That's a mighty good looking fuselage - I suspect your skill has as much to do with it as good design - but it's definitely working!
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  #24  
Old 02-09-2008, 09:12 PM
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Shrike: Apologies in advance for going a little off-topic. This kit (and many others, including the mid-range kits in 1:50 from Marek) are the basis for my preference for butt-jointed construction over the tab strip method of construction. Butt joints permit much tighter control over fit -- if the construction is done properly. In the butt-joined method you have segments with formers in both ends, in contrast with the strip joined method, in which each segment has a former in one end and a joining strip in the other to attach to the next segment. The increased rigidity of the part helps a lot. The secret to butt-joined models is to insure proper mating between the adjacent formers. This is done by holding them together and sanding them to a shared shape before gluing on the skins. That insures that the formers match. After forming the section (a longitudinal connecting strip always helps), run each segment over a piece of sand paper end-on to make sure that each skin is flush and square with its former. The fit will be near perfect. Then paint the visible areas with matching colors. A lot of people don't like the butt-joint method because they don't go the extra step to insure a good fit. If you do it, it works beautifully....
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Last edited by DrBill; 02-09-2008 at 09:19 PM.
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  #25  
Old 02-10-2008, 10:16 AM
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John Bowden John Bowden is offline
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DrBill.............sounds like you need to do a tutorial on this....................please! please!

Sorry Shrike.............back to the build thread...........oh and..............nit pick please.

After my latest fiasco with the MM Phantom............I want to know all the gory details.

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  #26  
Old 02-10-2008, 11:04 AM
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Bill has really hit on the key to butt joints.
After I cut out the bulkheads I transfer any centre lines or alignment marks to the edges and backside. I then glue them together with the tiniest dabs of glue (.5mm dots) and sand the edges to shape and to match each other. At the same time you can sand a taper into them if needed to fit the contour of the fuselage.

The picture here shows the wing ribs getting the same treatment.

The sanding stick is from the nails department of the local beauty supply store (Sally here in PHX) Waterproof, washable, available in grits from 80 to 600 - the one shown has 4 grits on it, not marked but feels like 120, 220 320 and 600. Oh and under a dollar usually.

If I had taken the right picture(grr) you could see the formers glued in stacks. I also use a hole punch to make the holes in the formers. It's quicker and easier that a knife , a 'nibbled' hole lets you get a grip with a fingertip to twist if needed to align them and making the holes differently shaped makes separating the stacks easier as well
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Last edited by shrike; 02-10-2008 at 11:07 AM.
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  #27  
Old 02-10-2008, 08:43 PM
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A very useful tutorial!

Could you expand a little on the "formers glued in stacks"?

Don
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  #28  
Old 02-10-2008, 11:52 PM
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Maybe 'stack' is an exaggeration, usually it's just 2 formers that match, although in that picture there are four wing ribs.
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  #29  
Old 02-11-2008, 04:24 AM
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Roger copy. I thought that's what you meant. It's a very good technique, although skill and experience are also still required, I find.

It's a great pleasure to watch your P-35 come together with your fine craftsmanship.

Don
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  #30  
Old 02-11-2008, 10:21 PM
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Moving on to the wings. These really show that the P-35 will grow up into the P-47 (and grow 2 metres longer, 1 metre wider and 1.5 metres taller. Oh and gain 5 tonnes as well)

The center section is completely conventional. I joined the skins together on the centerline before wrapping around the structure.

The outer panels have a spar and box structure that I had mixed feelings about, but I think I'm coming to like. The folded up box fits over the spar and 'softens' the underlying structure to help avoid the spar 'telegraphing' through the wing surface (which happened on the horizontal stab<sigh>)

I didn't add a joining strip where the inner and outer sections meet. I almost wish I had, but the joint still came out OK.

Here's another nitpick. A very common mistake I mentioned in the kit review. The red circle in the US markings shouldn't touch the blue. See correct marking next post
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