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#1
02-14-2011, 03:08 PM
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Avro Avian "Southern Cross Junior"
The Avro Avian was a two-seat "touring" biplane, built in Great britain during the late 20's-early 30's. This model builds "Southern Cross Junior", a custom-built long-range Avian used by Sir Charles Kingsford Smith. Flown by a later owner, it made the first crossing between Australia and New Zealand by air. Kingsford Smith also owned another modified Avian, a single-seater he called "Southern Cross Minor". Lad-N-Dad make a kit of that one, too.
The kit is by Lad-N-Dad, part of a collection of Kingsford Smith's aircraft. The build is fairly straight-forward, with some minor tweaking of parts to correct for fit. Lad-n-Dad's construction technique has the upper wing built in three parts, and the instructions call for mounting the center section to the fuselage (atop the cabane struts), then attaching the port and starboard wings. In future, I'm going to build up the upper wing as a complete unit prior to mounting it to the fuselage; while I've tried to 'hide" in my photos, the upper wing is distinctly mis-aligned! The rigging in the photos is purely representational; only a fraction of what the actual aircraft would have been strung together with. One thing this build is significant for- this is the first paper kit I've done where I'm halfway happy with the way the wheels came out! Enjoy the photos. The kit will be available for purchase on Ecardmodels.com in the near future. Wyvern 
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#6
02-14-2011, 07:31 PM
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#10
02-15-2011, 08:46 PM
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Rigging: ordinary sewing thread (Coates and Shine brand, in a silvery-grey color) and superglue. My glue of choice is Loctite Control Gel; the bottle's applicator allows for the dispensing of very small dollops of glue, and they stay EXACTLY where you put them, with no running or soaking. I wrap or tuck the thread tight against the strut (my struts have a wire core) and apply a smal droplet of the gel, and hold the thread tight until the glue sets- about 10 seconds. Let it cure for ten minutes or so, then it's firm enough to stretch the thread to the next attackment point, and repeat. Snip excess thread (tag ends) with sharp, fine scissors or a sharp knife blade. There are other more scale-and-realism-accurate methods for doing rigging, but for now this is giving me the look I want for the amount of time I want to put into it. That's why my build descriptions always state the rigging and bracing is "representational"- it's meant to capture the "flavor" of a rigged biplane rather than replicate the original. My case of AMS is not that advanced! Wyvern
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