P 51 Mały Modelarz - Page 2

**Mike1158** · #11 10-10-2020, 03:58 AM

That's a fine looking Mustang, mate.

**VonMick** · #12 10-11-2020, 01:04 AM

Thanks, and what's most important it's gonna be finished.

There were only shoulder seatbelts originally.
So back in 2011 I added the waist ones too.
Now in 2020 when I looked at them they just didn't stand up to the time.
So they were removed, unfortunately taking some paper with them - thats where the green of the seat is darker.
I used the crayons (pros always said: never use crayons) to get away with it.
But the new seatbelts are the best thing for me.
I liked them so much that almost decided the next model - bus or passenger plane.
Anything so there could be more of that nice seatbelts

**Don Boose** · #13 10-11-2020, 07:11 AM

This is turning out very well.

Don

**VonMick** · #14 10-11-2020, 09:38 AM

Thanks Don

Finishing details, wing root covers, radiator scoop, masking error with windscreen. Used spare color from landing gear legs.

**rifleman** · #15 10-11-2020, 12:52 PM

thats a cracking build big well done

**VonMick** · #16 10-12-2020, 11:07 AM

Thanks

Kit is supplied with bombs but I liked the drop tanks more.
So I converted drop tanks of other type, do a bit of sanding. Added some details - pipes are made from aviation grade lockwire, made the "stenciling".

**JCK** · #17 10-13-2020, 01:45 AM

Very nice model. The idea with the aluminium foil is really nice. I will kepp it in my mind. Keep going!!

**VonMick** · #18 10-13-2020, 12:41 PM

Yep it's cheap and gives good result.

Original propeller spinner was as good as nonexistent for me.
Luckily it is white so I could try it to my heart's content.
Which was a great total of two and decided to scratch it.

**VonMick** · #19 10-14-2020, 11:36 AM

Getting closer to finish...
Wheel brake lines, Malcolm hood.

Windscreen central glass panel is most likely to wide.
I got the vacuformed canopy for Halinski kit. It must have the center panel much narrower.
Cocpit canopy, the Malcolm Hood, the part that could be used was trimmed.
I didn't made the fornt and rear bracing.
That's the original conversion in Polish unit - it was removed so as not to restrict pilot vision.

**VonMick** · #20 10-16-2020, 11:56 AM

Finally done

For an goverment issue compared with models from private companies, it is one of very good quality at that.
Despite it's price which was 1/6 of the best paper Mustang available at the time it is very well designed.
And in my case it was it's downfall.
After spending some 20 hours on it in 2011 I shelved it.
I just wasn't sure I could put it together in a clean way.
Of course the modelers that take gold medals at contests first thing they do with model is to spray all templates over. Apparently best stuff for this is an varnish for protecting wooden floor, go figure...
This way they could smear the glue all over and when it's dry remove it traceless.
Next step is buying plethora of markers, watercolors and so on.
Both paper and plastic modelling is like with real aircraft maintenance.
You need pretty long list of consumable materials.

For me it is supposed to give pleasure of making something instead of wasting time in front of tv.
I'm not gonna put my work on show so I could allow myself to do it the cheap way.
If accidentally I have plastic models paint that is about right, then I'll
use it for some touch up.
I know that any of my kit would profit with paints destined for every detail but I'm to stingy for that.
What? Buy a paint to use few drops and then never gonna use again, no thanks.
Instead I would rather scratch some details to simply draw the attention from the errors.

Being great kit doesn't mean it is flawless.
When modeller would follow the manual to the letter he will get himself into a trap.
According to assembly drawing the wing root cover should be bent at some 90 degree angle....?
I mean were the designer got that idea?
Lots of bad comments about finished model that way on the internet.
Tail wheel is another area.
First the support is almost in every different place on every drawing.
Secondly both drawings show different positioning of the fork with shock absorber.
The template for main gear legs is oversized.
By rolling it you would have had it's dia more fitting for something the size of 747.
Also shown by manual attachment of landing gear covers to legs suggest that wheel weels could accomodate twice the original stuff.
All of the wheels are made of several layers of cardboard and then sanded down to shape.

The radio aerial is mystery, only on one drawing and looking more of an wire cutting device, no templates at all.

Rear wiev mirror (there was a total of none according to the archive pics) parts are... well either the numeration is wrong or...
Errors are with colors - swapped in some places.
Covers of exhaust stacks, wing root cover.
The "L" panel on the base of vertical stabilizer.
Gun powder marks, only on the bottom of wing - the upper part didn't get dirty?
Outlets after oil radiator, on one the stain are against airflow.

Layout of the radiator air scoop is over enginered.
Worst is that assembly joining line is on the exposed bottom part.
Wing assembly is tricky too.
Some guide lines would be appreciated as evidenced by my error.
Beside it is so meticulosly draw that there is no margin of error.
With my botched wing the wing root covers are too short - they didn't reach the landing flaps.

Strange that the windscreen frame is glued onto the fuselage.
I mean that it would not be flush but stick out off.
And when I checked completed kits in the internet I found that every builder go along with manual.
Luckily it is very easy to fix - I made recession by gluing few layers of paper under the fuselage template. This way when I mounted windscreen frame it was on the same level.
Yes it was supposed to be the best part of the model.
But it was ruined when I did cut out the areas for the glass.
Moreover the paper itself delaminated...

Also the control stick is of english type - as the plane was building for RAF.
Another part that modelers miss...
The prop spinner :(
Here too, most finished models have made either wooden one or heavy sanded and painted one.

If I was to build it again (and I know I will one day but with exposed engine and gunbays) here's what could be made better:

Use the crayons in colors of corresponding areas on the templates edges.
Look at the nose section, first thing You'll see is the black lines dividing the sections.
Now take notice of wing root cover edges - it is still not the same green.
But it doesn't hurt your eyes as with the nose lines.

Windscreen frame - cut it out so it would look at least acceptable.

Maybe more pipework in wheel wells, those brake lines also could have looked better.

Without using all tricks, despite it's errors and after making paper models since 90's I still think this is the cleanest way I could go.
I know it's sub zero to what real modelers do, but at least it's finished.

Thanks for patience