#11
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Superb build of a superb aircraft:D:D
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#12
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Very nice build. If it has any flaws I can't see them. Thanks for sharing.
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#13
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WoW Very Nice
__________________
Ashrunner "If you don't know what a lahar is, don't get in its way!" My Designs -- My Photography |
#14
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I am glad you like it.
OK, let's write something about the build. I have always adored Marcin Grygiel's models (most of these are built by him: http://halinski.com.pl/indexgb.php?link=7). His models have very smooth surface given by putting cyanoacrylate glue on the seams, sanding them and retouching the way I call "surface retouching". I wanted to try this technique out. Since it is probably hardly possible to perform it well on the models which have no weathering (well, maybe one could try with own weathering eg. with dry pastels?) I chose the first spitfire of Mr. Andrzej Haliński's publishing house. This spitfire is well known on the forums, so I intended to show only some peculiarities rather than all the build. This was the first build where I could get the help of the two furry creatures: This kind of look might forerun catastrophe: All right, here comes the cockpit. The formers' edges have been smoothened with thinned PVA glue and sometimes also acrylic putty. The handle of the stick is made of guitar string. These little pieces of cardstock which cannot be seen from the outside helped me join the two sides of the cockpit: I did not add any special elements because that was not the purpose of building this model. When I was putting the cockpit together I had no idea if I will succeed with the final works. The exception, however, was safety belts, which are well exposed and it was worth to "upgrade" them. They are made of thick alluminium foil. The buckles - of thin copper wire coiled onto a piece of a sanded thick wire. You just have to take the coils out of the wire and cut them into separate buckles. As for various boxes, I have developed a very convenient technique. I have discovered to myself that it is easier to make a triangle-shaped cut along the future bend than cut the box into separate pieces and glue them into a box, as I used to do earlier. The cut, I make it by vertical cut along the line and then, at both sides, by angled cuts along the ruler laid ca. 1,5 mm from the initial cut. The edges which are going to form the sides of the box are cut at angle, too: The box hardly needs retouching: As you can see on the photos of finished model, there are antenna wires coming out the fuselage. To give them tension and make them safe from tearing, I mounted a spring inside the fuselage which enables to pull the antennas (made of fishing line) out of fuselage without tearing them off. As for elements of such type, it is better to join them together before putting on the formers: To prevent the ailerons from deformations, I put some cardstock inside: The steering stuff is mounted on wires: Later on I will get to the retouch etc. |
#15
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Very, very interesting... especially that spring. What kind of wire is that?
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Jim |
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#16
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Thanks for sharing your techniques. The spring tip is one I'll use.
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#17
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Thanks for the technique tips. I wondered how you got the seams so smooth across the plane as a whole, filling and sanding makes sense - you did an excellent job with color matching the original kit!
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-Dan |
#18
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Quote:
Quote:
Yes, so let us get to the point - smoothening the surface. In various parts of the model I did it with various results, because it was the first model where I used the forementioned technique. The whole sheets of the model have been covered before cutting the parts out with thinned nitrocelulose varnish (normally used for varnishing wood). It should soak into the cardstock, leaving just a little varnish on its surface. It strenghtens the cardstock. After putting the parts together I was putting CA (cyanoacrylate) glue on the seams. The best of the methods I used was putting a drop of CA on a seam and, as quickly as possible, wiping it along the seam. Then I sanded the glue out - either this way: ...or with sanding paper rolled onto a pencil, depending on the shape of a part. After sanding: I had no experience at the beginning, so in the places where I began the results were far from perfect. A few pics after sanding: Quite scary, isn't it: After making the surface smooth I had to retouch the white places. At first I used humbrol paints, then cheap acrylic ones from a supermarket. It is probably the best to retouch after the final varnishing, but I did it otherwise to see the results. Final varnishing made the colour differences slightly more visible. However, I used dry pastels here or there, what equalized the colours. Anyway, you can still see differences on some pictures... I retouched the model with "dry brush" technique, making use of this effect: Of course full coverage goes for white places and not full for their surroundings. This is how it looks in a great magnification: Pics after retouching for comparison: The final varnishing was made by humbrol varnish (small glass jar version, not the tin one). I used a brush with short, unordered movements, which let me avoid trails. Left wing wet, the rest already dry: The last step was weathering with dry pastels. This technique is uneasy and requires some experience. I have gathered some, so the next model will be better. Last edited by Łukasz; 10-16-2008 at 08:54 AM. |
#19
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Beautiful!!!
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John Griffin, former nerd. |
#20
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Extremely useful thread. Thanks for all the technique illustrations!
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