#21
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How on earth did you manage to burnish from this
to this?!?!?! Pray tell what kind of magic did you employ???? It is an amazing difference! |
#22
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How could I have missed a build of a MiG in North Korean markings!
Great work, Chris. I, too, would like to know how you got the fuselage contours so smooth. I look forward to seeing this one appear in ECardmodels and will snap it up immediately. Don |
#23
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I think the first pic overstated the roughness of the edges a little but the burnishing technique I use definitely makes a difference. I'll re-build a section of the fuselage from my spare sheet and take some detailed pics of the process for ya and post it later today hopefully. Glad to help.
__________________
Put on hold build (someday I'll finish): F-35A Lightning II 1:72 Previous builds: cMags' Card Model Builds |
#24
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Bulkhead sectioned fuselage assembly and burnishing technique
Ok here is my technique for assembling Marek and other kits that use a bulkhead-to-bulkhead fuselage section assembly technique.
Here are the parts I will be using to demo the technique: First we cut the parts. Ideally, you would put the two A bulkheads and two C bulkheads together and sand them so they are identical. I skipped that here (and in my original build). Here is the way I assemble the sections. Some folks like to wrap the skin around the bulkhead, but I assemble the skin and insert the bulkhead. This allows me to get a good seam on the belly, and trim the bulkhead to fit nicely. To get the bulkhead in right at the edge, I punch a hole in the bulkheads for access when I'm closing up. I push the bulkhead in just past the edge, then add glue around the edge. Then I put the part down on a piece of acrylic and using a tool push the bulkhead down to sit flush against the acrylic. Then, before the glue dries, I twist it off the acrylic and wipe up any excess glue. Perfectly flat edge. Now we simply repeat that process and assemble the sections: So you can see the rough edges here. For burnishing, I recommend a large ball stylus, preferably with a smooth wooden handle like this one, because I use both ends (I sanded the back end to be a very large ball, and the handle is a straight cylinder for a good length of it, which I make use of). First I firmly but carefully trace the edges of the seams, both at the sections and the belly seams, pushing the paper edges down into each other. Then, I go back over it with the side of the tool, where I can be a bit firmer as there is no danger of slipping off the edge and pushing into the side (forgot to take a pic). And here you can see the before and after: It's subtle, but definitely helps.
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Put on hold build (someday I'll finish): F-35A Lightning II 1:72 Previous builds: cMags' Card Model Builds |
#25
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Thanks for the detailed tutorial on burnishing the edges... will keep that in mind in my future builds.
Cheers!! |
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#26
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Excellent tutorial, Chris!
I have a piece of heavy glass that I use for modell construction. It will serve very well in the same capacity as your acrylic, I think. Many thanks for taking the time and effort to answer our questions. Don |
#27
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Don, yes the glass will work perfectly. The acrylic I have is just a couple pieces of scrap left over from making clear shelves. I use one as a "glue pallet" instead of card because I can just scrape off the dried PVA later. It's often hiding in the background of my in-progress pics, such as this one. Useful little things.
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Put on hold build (someday I'll finish): F-35A Lightning II 1:72 Previous builds: cMags' Card Model Builds |
#28
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This kit is now available at www.ecardmodels.com!
1/50 MIG-15 BIS No. 121032 Nikolay V. Sutyagin PAPER MODEL - ECardmodels.com Shop - Downloadable
__________________
Put on hold build (someday I'll finish): F-35A Lightning II 1:72 Previous builds: cMags' Card Model Builds |
#29
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Thanks for the heads up, Chris. I will get it at once.
Don |
#30
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magnificent tutorial friend, illustrates your very successful procedure. thanks
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