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Old 08-14-2012, 03:58 PM
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biplane wings rib effect

I have never built a bi-plane before. I hate wing rib formers with a passion especially when you go to all the trouble to make them only to find out that you could have achieved the same results with few or none. I am building the Sopwith Tri-plane that is available here in the downloads. I wanted to get the rib effect on the wings and came up with a very simple and effective method. I will share for those who are lazy like me.

First score the wings at the leading edge and then all the ribs. then using the scroll method roll the whole wing face up using a 1/4" rod as shown.

Then bend each rib joint to form the rib protrusions.
(this actually should be done prior to rolling but I forgot and had to do it after)

Then straighten it and fold at the leading edge and glue the trailing edge flush. Insert a scewer as a spar and glue in the appropriate location to maintain the proper airfoil shape.

When you are done you have a strong wing that does not need rib formers and you have a nice consistent sag between the ribs.
Attached Thumbnails
biplane wings rib effect-gedc0191.jpg   biplane wings rib effect-gedc0194.jpg   biplane wings rib effect-gedc0195.jpg   biplane wings rib effect-gedc0196.jpg   biplane wings rib effect-gedc0198.jpg  

biplane wings rib effect-gedc0202.jpg   biplane wings rib effect-gedc0205.jpg  
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Old 08-14-2012, 04:39 PM
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That is a most fascinating technique. Good on ya for coming up with that one.
It will be a must try on my next early aviation build.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:03 PM
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Those wings look really good.

I've enjoyed all your previous models, especially the train ferry, Calypso, and the Ford Trimotor, and I look forward to seeing your build of this Triplane.

Don
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:39 PM
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Way cool technique. Looks great! Will give it a try - will have to be carefull at 1/72 scale not to overdo it.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLaser View Post
Way cool technique. Looks great! Will give it a try - will have to be carefull at 1/72 scale not to overdo it.

If you get too much droop you can just press it out until it gets flatter. It is very forgiving. You get a very straight consistent surface. I was curving each section separately and that was difficult and tedious, then this dawned on me. I was able to cut and do all six sections in ten minutes. I may never make ribs again. I didn't try it at a larger scale like 1/16 but I am quite sure it would still work.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:50 PM
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I'll try it on my next biplane: the FG Caproni bomber. Now that will be a challenge!
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Boose View Post
Those wings look really good.

I've enjoyed all your previous models, especially the train ferry, Calypso, and the Ford Trimotor, and I look forward to seeing your build of this Triplane.

Don
Thanks Don. he Dan ferry is one of my favorites out of the 50 or so I have in my collection. I have been out of commision for awhile but slowly getting back up to speed. I am impressed with what has been happening here in the last year or so. The Ford Tri Motor being one and now the DC-3 project. I love this forum. You guys are all great.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:28 AM
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Rolling it "the wrong way", then straightening it by folding at the leading edge and glueing the trailing edge - who would've thought! Really daring and inventive.

And on wings where a larger part of the leading edge is not ribbed but ply-covered, you only score the ribbed section, of course - and the rest of the procedure still works, yes? But you can't fold along the ribs then, can you...

Could you explain the thinking behind the rolling in a sheet of paper, and how that brings out the ribs even more closely. I can see what you're doing, but don't yet understand why - perhaps because it is so contrary to the way one would have thought a wing should be rolled...

In general, I agree about ribs being unnecessary, at least most of them. The ribs in the Triplane kit are mostly there for those who like to follow the original structure more closely, whether the result is visible or not at the end - or for those who would like to try to make a part of one wing with cut-outs to display the intricate inner framework.

I am very pleased to see you build the Triplane and look forward to the rest of the build documentation. There is room for a good photo on the cover...

Leif
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:11 AM
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Hello,

Thanks, for this interesting method. Honestly say, I was little bit frightened, when saw rolled skinning :D but its give nice effect. I must try it on my Bristol. (its'a a pitty that using laser prints).

Regards!
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leif Ohlsson View Post
Rolling it "the wrong way", then straightening it by folding at the leading edge and glueing the trailing edge - who would've thought! Really daring and inventive.

And on wings where a larger part of the leading edge is not ribbed but ply-covered, you only score the ribbed section, of course - and the rest of the procedure still works, yes? But you can't fold along the ribs then, can you...

Could you explain the thinking behind the rolling in a sheet of paper, and how that brings out the ribs even more closely. I can see what you're doing, but don't yet understand why - perhaps because it is so contrary to the way one would have thought a wing should be rolled...

In general, I agree about ribs being unnecessary, at least most of them. The ribs in the Triplane kit are mostly there for those who like to follow the original structure more closely, whether the result is visible or not at the end - or for those who would like to try to make a part of one wing with cut-outs to display the intricate inner framework.

I am very pleased to see you build the Triplane and look forward to the rest of the build documentation. There is room for a good photo on the cover...

Leif
The scroll method makes it easy to start the rolling process because all you have to do is push the part into the seam and start rolling. It keeps the paper tightly rolled. I developed this about 6 years ago when I was building rockets and had to roll lots of tubes. It works against the grain of the paper as well and much better than any other method I have tried. I use it for all paper rolling. Just tape a piece of paper to your dowell or rod and start rolling. Perfect tubes every time.
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